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Two distinct museums—one dedicated to Belgian history, the other an archeological site—are housed in the former Coudenberg Palace. The BELvue occupies the first floor of the neoclassical building, with views out across the Parc de Bruxelles, and relates the story of Belgium through the struggles for independence from The Netherlands and the final breakaway in 1830 to its present (almost) unified political state. Displays include black-and-white film, heaps of old weapons, and some graphic images of Flanders trenches in World War I. The Coudenberg dives down underneath the palace to explore the vast maze of tunnels that were at street level in the 17th century; the tentacles of the museum spread right under the Place Royale, taking in former kitchens, chapels, a few Roman remains, and whole streets that were covered over when King Léopold I started construction of his palatial new city in the 1860s. Don’t go down there without a map!