Just across the road from the Bourse (Stock Exchange), Le Cirio is often full of important-seeming gents who look like they’ve spent the day making millions. Inside it is a glorious whirl of Art Nouveau mirrors, brass bars, splendid chandeliers, and dark carved wood dating from 1886, where cheery waiters serve a curious concoction of half-wine, half-champagne in the same glass as well as a swathe of well-curated local beers.