Planning a trip to Bryce Canyon National Park
There once was a time when planning a visit to a national park involved little more than choosing the dates and packing the car. Yet as more people discover the parks, it becomes harder to secure campsites, lodging, and even parking. To combat this, it's best to decide what you want to do at the park and then try to schedule your visit for the least-crowded time that is best for those activities. So, if horseback riding is something you want to do, schedule your trip for spring or fall, when the stables are open but the crowds are few.
Luckily, there are more lodging and dining choices in and near the national parks than there were 20 or 25 years ago. At that time, we were happy if we found a restaurant that was clean and served basic American food.
The scenic beauty of Bryce Canyon National Park is unsurpassed -- and because it is among the West's most accessible parks, its wonders can be enjoyed by everyone from the very young to the very old, from hearty backpackers to visitors in wheelchairs. Bryce's defining feature is its hoodoos -- those rock formations that delight the child in all of us. But look a bit deeper and you'll discover Bryce Canyon's other facets, from its varied wildlife to its rugged forests.
Supplies
There is a small General Store (contact the Lodge at Bryce Canyon, tel. 435/834-8700; www.brycecanyonforever.com) inside the park that is open daily from mid-May to mid-October (call for hours), with groceries and camping supplies, plus snacks, ice, beer, bundles of firewood, and souvenirs, all at surprisingly reasonable prices. The General Store is about a quarter-mile south of North Campground near the Sunrise Point parking area.
On the south side of the lobby of Ruby's Inn (tel. 866/866-6616 or 435/834-5484; www.rubysinn.com), just outside the entrance to the park, is a huge general store that offers souvenirs, Western clothing, camping supplies, and a good selection of groceries. The store is open from 7am to 10:30pm daily. In the lobby are a small liquor store, a car-rental desk, a beauty salon, a photo shop with digital photo services, and tour desks where you can arrange excursions, from horseback treks and all-terrain-vehicle rides to helicopter tours.
Packing
When packing, keep in mind that this is a land of extremes, with an often-unforgiving climate and terrain. Those planning to hike or bike should take more drinking water containers than they think they'll need -- experts recommend at least 1 gallon of water per person per day on the trail -- as well as sun block, hats, other protective clothing, and sunglasses with UV protection.
Summer visitors will want to carry rain gear for the typical afternoon thunderstorms, and jackets or sweaters for cool evenings. Winter visitors will not only want warm parkas and hats, but lighter clothing as well -- the bright sun at midday can make it feel like June.
Take a first-aid kit, of course, and make sure it contains tweezers -- very useful for removing cactus spines. Hikers, especially those planning to go into the Narrows at Zion, will appreciate having a walking stick to brace themselves against the sometimes strong currents on the "trail," which is actually more wading than hiking
Staying Connected
Mobile Phones
Both GSM and CDMA cell phones work in the gateway communities, but service is spotty in the park, and nonexistent in the more remote areas of the park.
Telephones
Public telephones are at the visitor center, the Lodge at Bryce Canyon, and the General Store. There is also a public phone at Ruby's Inn, just north of the park entrance.
Many convenience groceries and packaging services sell prepaid calling cards in denominations up to $50. Many public pay phones at airports now accept American Express, MasterCard, and Visa. Local calls made from most pay phones cost either 25¢ or 35¢. Most long-distance and international calls can be dialed directly from any phone. To make calls within the United States and to Canada, dial 1 followed by the area code and the seven-digit number. For other international calls, dial 011 followed by the country code, city code, and the number you are calling.
Calls to area codes 800, 888, 877, and 866 are toll-free.
For reversed-charge or collect calls, and for person-to-person calls, dial the number 0 then the area code and number; an operator will come on the line, and you should specify whether you are calling collect, person-to-person, or both. If your operator-assisted call is international, ask for the overseas operator.
For directory assistance ("Information"), dial 411 for local numbers and national numbers in the U.S. and Canada. For dedicated long-distance information, dial 1, then the area code plus 555-1212.
Internet & Wi-Fi
Free Wi-Fi access is available year-round at the visitor center and from April through October in the Lodge at Bryce Canyon lobby and the front porch of the General Store.
Escorted & Package Tours
A number of nationally recognized companies offer tours that include Zion and Bryce and surrounding areas. In most cases, all you do is pay, and then the outfitters arrange everything, including lodging, meals, and transportation. Offerings range from fairly standard bus tours to luxury adventure vacations. You'll want to contact tour operators as far in advance as possible, as reservations are required and group sizes are limited. The adventure tour operators generally specialize in small groups and have trips for various levels of ability and physical fitness. Trips are offered in a range of price categories, from basic to luxurious, and are of varying lengths.
For a list of outfitters in Utah, as well as a lot of other useful information and Web links, contact the Utah Office of Tourism, Council Hall, 300 N. State St., Salt Lake City, UT 84114 (tel. 800/200-1160; www.utah.com), or check out the website of Utah Guides & Outfitters, www.utah-adventures.com.
In addition to the companies listed below, one well-respected national company that offers tours to southern Utah's national parks is Tauck Tours (tel. 800/788-7885; www.tauck.com). A good online source for a variety of outdoor adventure trips offered by various outfitters is www.adventurefinder.com.
- Austin-Lehman Adventures, P.O. Box 81025, Billings, MT 59108-1025 (tel. 800/575-1540 or 406/655-4591; www.austinlehman.com), offers guided multiday hiking tours in Zion and Bryce Canyon national parks and surrounding areas.
- Backroads, 801 Cedar St., Berkeley, CA 94710-1800 (tel. 800/462-2848 or 510/527-1555; www.backroads.com), offers a variety of guided multiday road biking, mountain biking, and hiking tours in Zion and Bryce Canyon.
- Bicycle Adventures, 29700 SE High Point Way, Issaquah, WA 98027 (tel. 800/443-6060 or 425/250-5540; www.bicycleadventures.com), offers guided multiday hiking and biking excursions in Zion and Bryce Canyon national parks.
- REI Adventures, P.O. Box 1938, Sumner, WA 98390 (tel. 800/622-2236 or 253/437-1100; www.rei.com/adventures), offers guided multiday hiking and biking treks into Zion and Bryce Canyon national parks, plus a unique trip on New Year's Day that includes a bit of snowshoeing with your hike.
- The World Outdoors, 2840 Wilderness Place, Ste. D, Boulder, CO 80301 (tel. 800/488-8483 or 303/413-0946; www.theworldoutdoors.com), offers a variety of trips, including hiking and multisport adventures to Zion and Bryce Canyon national parks.
Getting There
Zion and Bryce Canyon national parks, located in rural southern Utah, are not close to any major cities or transportation hubs, and the vast majority of visitors will arrive by car, either their own or a rental. Those not driving their own vehicles will likely fly to one of several cities or towns and rent a car for the remainder of their trip. The parks are 83 miles apart by road.
Attention visitors to the U.S. from abroad: Some major airlines offer transatlantic or transpacific passengers special discount tickets under the name Visit USA, which allows mostly one-way travel from one U.S. destination to another at very low prices. Unavailable in the U.S., these discount tickets must be purchased abroad in conjunction with your international fare. This system is the easiest, fastest, cheapest way to see the country. Inquire with your air carrier.
If you plan to rent a car in the United States, keep in mind that foreign driver's licenses are usually recognized in the U.S., but you may want to consider obtaining an international driver's license. International visitors should also note that insurance and taxes are almost never included in quoted rental car rates in the U.S. And, when putting fuel in your vehicle, be aware that taxes are already included in the printed price. One U.S. gallon equals 3.8 liters or .85 imperial gallons.
Bryce Canyon National Park is 50 miles west of Escalante, 80 miles east of Cedar City, 83 miles northeast of Zion National Park, 120 miles southwest of Capitol Reef National Park, 135 miles northeast of St. George, and 160 miles north of the north rim of Grand Canyon National Park in northern Arizona. It's about 250 miles south of Salt Lake City.
By Plane
The closest airport with regularly scheduled service is at Cedar City, and also fairly close is the airport at St. George. In addition, you can fly to Las Vegas, Nevada, and rent a car; or take a shuttle from there to St. George, where you can also rent a car.
Bryce Canyon Airport (Airport Code BCE; tel. 435/834-5239; www.brycecanyonairport.com), at 7,586 feet of elevation, is several miles from the park entrance on Utah 12, and has a 7,400-foot lighted runway. There is no regularly scheduled airline service, but charter service is available from Bryce Canyon Airlines (tel. 435/834-8060; www.rubysinn.com/bryce-canyon-airlines.html). A free shuttle services local motels, and car rentals are available from Hertz (tel. 800/654-3131; www.hertz.com), at the Chevron at Ruby's Inn.
By Bus
Greyhound (tel. 800/231-2222 in the U.S.; tel. 001/214/849-8100 outside the U.S. with toll-free access; www.greyhound.com) is the sole nationwide bus line. It provides service to St. George and Cedar City, Utah, and Las Vegas, Nevada.
International visitors can obtain the Greyhound North American Discovery Pass. It offers unlimited travel and stopovers in the U.S. and Canada, and can be obtained outside the United States from travel agents or through www.discoverypass.com.
By Car
From Zion National Park, head east on Utah 9 about 18 miles to U.S. 89, north 44 miles to Utah 12, and east 17 miles to the park entrance road (Utah 63). Then go 3 miles south on Utah 63 to reach the park entrance.
From St. George, travel north on I-15 10 miles to exit 16, east on Utah 9 for 63 miles to U.S. 89, north 44 miles to Utah 12, and then east 17 miles on Utah 12 to the park entrance road.
From Capitol Reef National Park, take Utah 24 west 10 miles to Torrey, turn southwest onto Scenic Highway Utah 12, and drive for about 110 miles, passing through the towns of Boulder and Escalante, to the park entrance road.
From Salt Lake City, take I-15 south about 200 miles to exit 95, east 13 miles on Utah 20, south on U.S. 89 for 17 miles to Utah 12, and east 17 miles on Utah 12 to the park entrance road.
Protecting the Environment
Many of the wonderful outdoor areas that you'll be exploring in Zion and Bryce Canyon national parks are quite isolated, especially in the backcountry at Zion. Not long ago, the rule was to "leave only footprints"; these days, we're trying to do better and not leave even footprints. It's relatively easy to be a good outdoor citizen -- pack out all trash, stay on established trails, be especially careful not to pollute water, and, in general, do your best to have as little impact on the environment as possible. Some hikers carry a small trash bag to pick up what others may have left. As the park service likes to remind us, protecting our national parks is everyone's responsibility.
Health & Safety
The rugged landscapes that make Zion and Bryce Canyon such beautiful destinations can also be hazardous. Because many areas in the parks are isolated, there may be no one there to help in an emergency. The trick is to be prepared, like any good Boy Scout. The most important thing you can do to help ensure your safety is to check with park offices and park rangers about current conditions before heading out.
Southern Utah's extremes of climate -- from burning desert to snow-covered mountains -- can produce health problems, if you're not prepared. If you haven't been to the desert before, it can be difficult to comprehend the heat, dryness, and intensity of the sun. If you're prone to dry skin, moisturizing lotion is a must; even if you're not, you will probably end up using it. Everyone needs to use a good quality sun block, wear a hat, and wear sunglasses with full ultraviolet protection. Hikers and others planning to be outside will also need to carry water -- at least a gallon per person per day is recommended.
The other potential problem is elevation. Bryce Canyon National Park rises to over 9,000 feet, and a side trip to Cedar Breaks National Monument will take you to over 10,000 feet. These elevations are high enough to produce health problems for those not accustomed to them -- there's less oxygen and lower humidity up there than many visitors are used to. In fact, the most common complaint at the first-aid station at Bryce Canyon Lodge is shortness of breath. Those with heart or respiratory problems should consult their doctors before planning a trip to these parks, Bryce Canyon in particular. If you're in generally good health, you don't need to take any special precautions, but it's advisable to ease into high elevations by changing altitude gradually. Also, get plenty of rest, avoid large meals, and drink plenty of nonalcoholic fluids, especially water.
State health officials also warn outdoor enthusiasts to take precautions against hantavirus, a rare but often fatal respiratory disease, first recognized in 1993. About half of the country's confirmed cases have been reported in the Four Corners states of Colorado, New Mexico, Arizona, and Utah. The droppings and urine of rodents usually spread the disease, and health officials recommend that campers and hikers avoid areas with signs of rodent occupation. Symptoms of hantavirus are similar to flu, and lead to breathing difficulties and shock.
Fast Facts
Area Codes -- The area code is 435.
ATMs -- Just outside the entrance to the park, there is an automated teller machine (ATM) in the lobby of Ruby's Inn (tel. 866/866-6616 or 435/834-5341; www.rubysinn.com).
Drinking Laws -- The legal age for purchase and consumption of alcoholic beverages is 21; proof of age is required and often requested at bars, nightclubs, and restaurants, so it's always a good idea to bring ID when you go out. Do not carry open containers of alcohol in your car or any public area that isn't zoned for alcohol consumption. Don't even think about driving while intoxicated.
Electricity -- Like Canada, the United States uses 110 to 120 volts AC (60 cycles), compared to 220 to 240 volts AC (50 cycles) in most of Europe, Australia, and New Zealand. Downward converters that change 220-240 volts to 110-120 volts are difficult to find in the United States, so bring one with you.
Embassies & Consulates -- All embassies are in the nation's capital, Washington, D.C. Some consulates are in major U.S. cities, and most nations have a mission to the United Nations in New York City. If your country isn't listed below, call for directory information in Washington, D.C. (tel. 202/555-1212) or check www.embassy.org/embassies.
The embassy of Australia is at 1601 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20036 (tel. 202/797-3000; www.usa.embassy.gov.au). Consulates are in New York, Honolulu, Houston, Los Angeles, and San Francisco.
The embassy of Canada is at 501 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20001 (tel. 202/682-1740; www.canadainternational.gc.ca/washington). Other Canadian consulates are in Buffalo (New York), Detroit, Los Angeles, New York, and Seattle.
The embassy of Ireland is at 2234 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20008 (tel. 202/462-3939; www.embassyofireland.org). Irish consulates are in Boston, Chicago, New York, San Francisco, and other cities. See website for complete listing.
The embassy of New Zealand is at 37 Observatory Circle NW, Washington, DC 20008 (tel. 202/328-4800; www.nzembassy.com). New Zealand consulates are in Los Angeles, Salt Lake City, San Francisco, and Seattle.
The embassy of the United Kingdom is at 3100 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20008 (tel. 202/588-6500; http://ukinusa.fco.gov.uk). Other British consulates are in Atlanta, Boston, Chicago, Cleveland, Houston, Los Angeles, New York, San Francisco, and Seattle.
Emergencies -- Dial tel. 911 or 435/772-3322, 24 hours a day, or locate the nearest park ranger.
Insurance -- For information on traveler's insurance, trip cancelation insurance, and medical insurance while traveling, please visit www.frommers.com/planning.
Laundry -- Inside the park, there is a coin-operated laundry at the General Store, about a quarter-mile south of North Campground, near the Sunrise Point parking area. It's open daily from mid-April to October.
Just outside the entrance to the park, Ruby's Inn has two coin-operated laundry facilities. The one in the main complex is open 24 hours a day year-round, and the second, located at Ruby's Campground, about a quarter-mile south of the inn, is open April through October from 7am to 9:30pm daily.
Legal Aid -- While driving, if you are pulled over for a minor infraction (such as speeding), never attempt to pay the fine directly to a police officer; this could be construed as attempted bribery, a much more serious crime. Pay fines by mail, or directly into the hands of the clerk of the court.
Mail -- A U.S. Post Office is located inside the main building of Ruby's Inn, just outside the park in Bryce Canyon City (zip code 84764).
Medical Services -- A first-aid station is at the Lodge at Bryce Canyon. The closest hospital is Garfield Memorial Hospital, 200 N. 400 E., in Panguitch, 24 miles northwest via Utah 12 and U.S. 89 (tel. 435/676-8811; www.intermountainhealthcare.org), which has a 24-hour emergency room.
For foreign visitors: Unless you're arriving from an area suffering from an epidemic (particularly cholera or yellow fever), inoculations or vaccinations are not required for entry into the United States.
Taxes -- The United States has no value-added tax (VAT) or other indirect tax at the national level. Every state, county, and city may levy its own local tax on all purchases, including hotel and restaurant checks and airline tickets. These taxes will not appear on price tags.
Time -- The continental United States is divided into four time zones: Eastern Standard Time (EST), Central Standard Time (CST), Mountain Standard Time (MST), and Pacific Standard Time (PST). Alaska and Hawaii have their own zones. For example, when it's 9am in Los Angeles (PST), it's 7am in Honolulu (HST),10am in Denver (MST), 11am in Chicago (CST), noon in New York City (EST), 5pm in London (GMT), and 2am the next day in Sydney.
All of Utah is in the Mountain Standard Time zone.
Daylight saving time (summer time) is in effect from 1am on the second Sunday in March to 1am on the first Sunday in November, except in Arizona, Hawaii, the U.S. Virgin Islands, and Puerto Rico. Daylight saving time moves the clock 1 hour ahead of standard time.
For help with time translations, download our Travel Tools app for your mobile device. Go to www.frommers.com/go/mobile and click on the Travel Tools icon.
Tipping -- In hotels, tip bellhops at least $1 per bag ($2-$3 if you have a lot of luggage) and tip the chamber staff $1 to $2 per day (more if you've left a big mess for him or her to clean up). Tip the doorman or concierge only if he or she has provided you with some specific service (for example, calling a cab for you or obtaining difficult-to-get theater tickets). Tip the valet-parking attendant $1 every time you get your car.
In restaurants, bars, and nightclubs, tip service staff and bartenders 15% to 20% of the check, tip checkroom attendants $1 per garment, and tip valet-parking attendants $1 per vehicle.
As for other service personnel, tip cab drivers 15% of the fare; tip skycaps at airports at least $1 per bag ($2-$3 if you have a lot of luggage); and tip hairdressers and barbers 15% to 20%.
For help with tip calculations, currency conversions, and more, download the Travel Tools app for your mobile device .
Weather -- For current statewide weather information, contact the National Weather Service (tel. 801/524-5133; www.wrh.noaa.gov/slc). For local weather information, call the park office (tel. 435/834-5322).
Entry Requirements & Customs
Passports
Virtually every air traveler entering the U.S. is required to show a passport. All persons, including U.S. citizens, traveling by air between the United States and Canada, Mexico, Central and South America, the Caribbean, and Bermuda are required to present a valid passport. Note: U.S. and Canadian citizens entering the U. S. at land and sea ports of entry from within the western hemisphere must now also present a passport or other documents compliant with the Western Hemisphere Travel Initiative (WHTI; visit www.getyouhome.gov for details). Children 15 and under may continue entering with only a U.S. birth certificate, or other proof of U.S. citizenship.
Passport Offices
- Australia -- Australian Passport Information Service (tel. 131-232, or visit www.passports.gov.au).
- Canada -- Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca).
- Ireland -- Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.foreignaffairs.gov.ie).
- New Zealand -- Passports Office, Department of Internal Affairs, 47 Boulcott Street, Wellington, 6011 (tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100; www.passports.govt.nz).
- United Kingdom -- Visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency or contact the Identity and Passport Service (IPS), 89 Eccleston Square, London, SW1V 1PN (tel. 0300/222-0000; www.ips.gov.uk).
- United States -- To find your regional passport office, check the U.S. State Department website (travel.state.gov/passport) or call the National Passport Information Center (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information.
Visas
The U.S. State Department has a Visa Waiver Program (VWP) allowing citizens of the following countries to enter the United States without a visa for stays of up to 90 days: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Monaco, the Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, and the United Kingdom. (Note: This list was accurate at press time; for the most up-to-date list of countries in the VWP, consult http://travel.state.gov/visa.) Even though a visa isn't necessary, in an effort to help U.S. officials check travelers against terror watch lists before they arrive at U.S. borders, visitors from VWP countries must register online through the Electronic System for Travel Authorization (ESTA) before boarding a plane or a boat to the U.S. Travelers must complete an electronic application providing basic personal and travel eligibility information. The Department of Homeland Security recommends filling out the form at least three days before traveling. Authorizations will be valid for up to two years or until the traveler's passport expires, whichever comes first. Currently, there is 1 US$14 fee for the online application. Existing ESTA registrations remain valid through their expiration dates. Note: Any passport issued on or after October 26, 2006, by a VWP country must be an e-Passport for VWP travelers to be eligible to enter the U.S. without a visa. Citizens of these nations also need to present a round-trip air or cruise ticket upon arrival. E-Passports contain computer chips capable of storing biometric information, such as the required digital photograph of the holder. If your passport doesn't have this feature, you can still travel without a visa if the valid passport was issued before October 26, 2005, and includes a machine-readable zone; or if the valid passport was issued between October 26, 2005, and October 25, 2006, and includes a digital photograph. For more information, go to http://travel.state.gov/visa. Canadian citizens may enter the United States without visas, but will need to show passports and proof of residence.
Citizens of all other countries must have (1) a valid passport that expires at least 6 months later than the scheduled end of their visit to the U.S.; and (2) a tourist visa.
For information about U.S. Visas go to http://travel.state.gov and click on "Visas." Or go to one of the following websites:
Australian citizens can obtain up-to-date visa information from the U.S. Embassy Canberra, Moonah Place, Yarralumla, ACT 2600 (tel. 02/6214-5600) or by checking the U.S. Diplomatic Mission's website at http://canberra.usembassy.gov/visas.html.
British subjects can obtain up-to-date visa information by calling the U.S. Embassy Visa Information Line (tel. 09042-450-100 from within the U.K. at £1.20 per minute; or tel. 866-382-3589 from within the U.S. at a flat rate of $16 and is payable by credit card only) or by visiting the "Visas to the U.S." section of the American Embassy London's website at http://london.usembassy.gov/visas.html.
Irish citizens can obtain up-to-date visa information through the U.S. Embassy Dublin, 42 Elgin Rd., Ballsbridge, Dublin 4 (tel. 1580-47-VISA [8472] from within the Republic of Ireland at €2.40 per minute; http://dublin.usembassy.gov).
Citizens of New Zealand can obtain up-to-date visa information by contacting the U.S. Embassy New Zealand, 29 Fitzherbert Terrace, Thorndon, Wellington (tel. 644/462-6000; http://newzealand.usembassy.gov).
Tips for Travelers with Disabilities
The National Park Service has made great strides in recent years in making their facilities more accessible to those with disabilities. The Bryce Canyon Visitor Center is wheelchair accessible, including the restrooms. A half-mile section of the Rim Trail, between Sunrise and Sunset Points, is fairly level, paved, and wheelchair accessible; several of the viewpoints along the scenic drive are accessible; the Bristlecone Loop Trail, at Rainbow Point, has a hard surface and is accessible with assistance; Sunset Campground has accessible campsites, and the shuttle bus is completely accessible. Also, park rangers are extremely receptive to helping disabled travelers. Those with disabilities can obtain free admission and discounts on many park facilities, such as campgrounds.
The Utah information and referral line for people with disabilities is tel. 800/333-8824, or go online to www.accessut.org.
Visitor Information
For advance information on what to see and do in Bryce Canyon National Park, contact the park at P.O. Box 640201, Bryce, UT 84764-0201 (tel. 435/834-5322; www.nps.gov/brca). Officials request that you write rather than call, at least a month before your planned visit, for them to mail information. However, you will find everything they will send you and more at the park website. You can also get information at www.twitter.com/brycecanyonnps and at www.facebook.com/brycecanyonnps.
For even more details, order books, maps, posters, DVDs, videotapes, and CDs from the nonprofit Bryce Canyon Natural History Association, P.O. Box 640051, Bryce, UT 84764-0051 (tel. 888/362-2642 or 435/834-4782; www.brycecanyon.org). Association members ($35 single or $50 family annually) receive a 15% discount on purchases and discounts for programs presented by the High Plateaus Institute. Members also receive discounts at the Bryce Lodge gift shop and most other nonprofit bookstores at national parks, monuments, historic sites, and recreation areas.
Among the books that the association sells is the excellent Hiking Zion & Bryce Canyon National Parks, by Erik Molvar and Tamara Martin, which includes detailed trail descriptions for both parks. The Bryce Canyon Auto and Hiking Guide, by Tully Stroud and Paul R. Johnson, is published by the association and has discussions of the various viewpoints and hiking trails, a variety of color photos of the park, and historic black-and-white photos. The association publishes Shadows of Time: The Geology of Bryce Canyon National Park, by Frank DeCourten, John Telford, and Hannah Hinchman.
For additional information on the area, contact Bryce Canyon Country, operated by the Garfield County Office of Tourism (tel. 800/444-6689 or 435/676-1102; www.brycecanyoncountry.com).
Getting There/Gateways
Situated in the mountains of southern Utah, the park is crossed east-west by Utah 12, which eventually heads out of the park east to Tropic and eventually to Escalante. The bulk of the park, including the visitor center, is accessed by Utah 63, which turns south off Utah 12 into the main portions of the park. U.S. 89 runs north-south, west of the park.
Visitor Center & Information
The visitor center, at the north end of the park, just after you enter (there is only one entrance), has exhibits on the geology and history of the area and presents an excellent introductory video program on the park, which we recommend seeing if you have time. There are large photos of many of the park's better-known formations, and a relief map that shows Bryce Canyon and nearby sections of the Colorado Plateau, including Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. Rangers can answer questions and provide backcountry permits; several free brochures are available; and books, maps, videos, postcards, and posters are sold. The visitor center is open daily year-round except Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year's Day. Summer hours are usually from 8am to 8pm, with shorter hours the rest of the year (in the dead of the winter, the visitor center will close at 4:30pm).
Fees
Entry into the park (for up to 7 days) costs $25 per private car, pickup truck, van, or RV, which includes unlimited use of the park shuttle (when it's operating). Individuals 16 and older entering the park on motorcycle, bike, or foot are charged $12 each; those 15 and under are admitted free. Campsites cost $15 per night.
Backcountry permits are required for all overnight trips into the backcountry, and for up to 7 days cost $5 for one or two people, $10 for three to six people, and $15 for 7 to 15 people (group sites only). Backcountry camping is permitted on only two trails (details are available at the visitor center).
Passes Offer Free Admission on Most Federal Lands -- Those who enjoy vacationing at national parks, national forests, and other federal lands have opportunities to save quite a bit of money by using the federal government's annual passes. The America the Beautiful -- National Parks and Federal Recreational Lands Pass costs $80 for 1 year, from the date of purchase, for the general public. It provides free admission for the pass holder, and those in his or her vehicle, to recreation sites that charge vehicle entrance fees on lands administered by the National Park Service, U.S. Forest Service, U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, Bureau of Land Management, and Bureau of Reclamation. At areas that charge per-person fees, the passes are good for the pass holder, plus three additional adults. Children 15 and under are admitted free.
The passes are also available for U.S. citizens and permanent residents ages 62 and older for a lifetime fee of $10 (Senior Pass), and are free for U.S. residents and permanent residents with disabilities (Access Pass). The Senior and Access passes also provide 50% discounts on some fees, such as those for camping.
The Senior and Access passes can be obtained by mail with an application form available online with a $10 processing fee, or without the processing fee in person at national parks, U.S. Forest Service offices, and other federal recreation sites. The general public version (the $80 one) can be purchased in person, by phone (tel. 888/275-8747, ext. 1), or online at http://store.usgs.gov/pass.
Regulations & Warnings
Hikers should practice minimum-impact techniques. All hikers are prohibited from building fires and must carry their own water, as water sources in the backcountry are unreliable. Bicycles are prohibited in the backcountry and on all trails. Feeding or disturbing wildlife, vandalism, and upsetting any natural feature of the park are all prohibited. Pets, which must be leashed at all times, are prohibited on all trails, in the backcountry, and in public buildings.
Trailers are not permitted beyond Sunset Campground; they can be left at a campsite, at the visitor center, or in other designated parking areas. Any vehicle longer than 25 feet (large trucks and motor homes, for instance) cannot go to Paria View.
While most visitors to Bryce Canyon enjoy an exciting vacation without mishap, accidents can occur, and here -- possibly because of the nature of the trails -- the most common injuries by far are sprained, twisted, and broken ankles. Park rangers strongly recommend that hikers -- even those out on short day hikes -- wear sturdy hiking boots with good traction and ankle support.
A concern in the park in recent years has been bubonic plague, which, contrary to popular belief, is treatable with antibiotics if caught early. The bacteria that cause bubonic plague have been found on fleas in prairie dog colonies in the park, so you should avoid contact with wild animals, especially prairie dogs and other rodents. Those taking pets into the park should dust them with flea powder. Avoiding contact with infected animals will greatly minimize the chances of contracting the plague, but caution is still necessary.
Symptoms, which generally occur from 2 to 6 days after exposure, may include high fever, headache, vomiting, diarrhea, and swollen glands. Anyone with these symptoms following a park visit should get medical attention immediately, because the plague can be fatal if not treated promptly.
Restrooms at Bryce Canyon
The nicest and most modern restrooms at Bryce Canyon are at the visitor center and just off the lobby at the Lodge at Bryce Canyon. They're well maintained, heated, and have flush toilets and sinks with hot water.
There are also restrooms with hot water at the General Store in the park (about a quarter-mile south of North Campground, near the Sunrise Point parking area), and just outside the park entrance at Ruby's Inn (just off the lobby).
Other park facilities range from flush toilets at North and Sunset campgrounds and Sunset Point to vault toilets at Rainbow, Yovimpa, and Farview points. Although there are few toilets along trails (none in the backcountry), spring through fall, you will find a vault toilet on the Peekaboo Loop Trail, just west of its intersection with the Bryce Point cutoff trail.
Although essentially outhouses, vault toilets -- officially called "bulk-reduction toilet systems" -- have come a long way in the past 30 years -- they're now clean, sanitary, and best of all, they don't smell. However, there is no water for hand-washing, no lights, and no heat. During busy times, the less-developed restroom facilities may run out of toilet paper, so it's best to carry a backup supply.
Tips for Travelers with Pets
Although national surveys show that about two-thirds of pet owners take their pets along on their travels, the National Park Service still doesn't get it. Practically all national parks, including Zion and Bryce Canyon, are not pet-friendly; therefore, those planning to visit the parks should consider leaving their pets at home. Pets are prohibited on hiking trails, in the backcountry, and in all buildings, and must always be on a leash no more than 6 feet long. One happy exception is at Zion, where leashed pets are permitted on the Pa'rus Trail. Pets should not be left unattended in campgrounds at either park. Essentially, this means that if you take your pet into the parks they can be with you in the campgrounds and inside your vehicle, and you can walk them in parking areas, but that's about it.
Pets should never be left in closed vehicles, where temperatures can soar to over 120°F (49°C) in minutes, resulting in brain damage or death, and there is no punishment too severe for the human who subjects a dog or cat to that torture. Outside Bryce Canyon National Park, Doggy Day Camp (tel. 435/690-9616) operates a boarding kennel; and pet boarding is available near Zion, in the community of Rockville, at Doggy Dude Ranch (tel. 435/772-3105; www.doggyduderanch.com).
Those who do decide to take pets with them into these parks, despite the fact that they are not permitted in most places, should take their pets' leashes (of course); carry plenty of water (pet shops sell clever little travel water bowls that won't spill too much in a moving vehicle); and bring proof that their dogs or cats have been vaccinated against rabies. Flea and tick spray or powder is also important, especially if you will be taking your pet to Bryce Canyon, where bubonic plague is transmitted by the fleas that prey on prairie dogs and other rodents. A good online source of information for pet owners is www.petswelcome.com.
Special Tip for Pet Owners -- Although pets are not permitted on practically any of the trails or in the backcountry in Bryce Canyon and Zion national parks, those traveling with their dogs can hike with them over miles of trails administered by the U.S. Forest Service and Bureau of Land Management, adjacent to both national parks. Pets are also welcome, even on trails, in Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument (administered by the BLM) and in Utah's state parks.
Money
Frommer's lists exact prices in the local currency. However, rates fluctuate, so before departing consult a currency exchange website such as www.oanda.com/currency/converter to check current rates.
For help with currency conversions, tip calculations, and more, get Frommer's Travel Tools app for your mobile device. Go to www.frommers.com/go/mobile and click on "Travel Tools."
What Things Cost in US$
Double room, moderate, in summer $140-$160
Double room, inexpensive, in summer $85-$95
Commercial campground, full RV hookups $30-$35
Three course dinner for one without wine, moderate $20-$30
Bottle of beer $3.50-$5
Cup of Coffee $2-$2.50
1 gallon/1 liter of regular gas $3.80/$1
Getting Around
By Car
Getting around Bryce Canyon National Park is simple: there's one road, and it's a dead-end. Although the park is crossed east-west along its north edge by Utah 12, most of the park -- including the visitor center and most of the things you want to see -- are accessed by Utah 63, which turns south off Utah 12 and becomes the park's 18-mile (one-way) scenic drive. You can take your own vehicle on the scenic drive at any time, although use of the shuttle is recommended.
Just outside the entrance to the park, American Car Care Center & Bryce Canyon Towing (tel. 435/835-5232) is a full-service station, with gasoline and diesel fuel. It has facilities to work on large vehicles and motor homes and provides AAA towing services. There are also gas stations along Utah 12 in the communities of Bryce (where Utah 63 turns south off Utah 12) and Tropic (along Utah 12, about 8 miles east of Bryce).
By Shuttle
To alleviate traffic congestion during the busy summer season, a voluntary shuttle service runs daily from early May through early October. Visitors can park their cars at the parking and boarding area at the intersection of the entrance road and Utah 12, 3 miles from the park boundary, and ride the shuttle into the park. The shuttle has stops at various viewpoints, as well as at Ruby's Inn, Ruby's Campground, the visitor center, Sunset Campground, and the Lodge at Bryce Canyon. The shuttle runs every 12 to 15 minutes and is handicap accessible.
Exploring the Parks by RV or "Car-Camping"
One of the best ways to explore Zion and Bryce parks, is in an RV, or in a car or truck while spending your nights in a tent.
There are a few things that RVers might want to know. Entering Zion from the east in an RV involves an extra fee and maybe a short wait to get through the Zion-Mt. Carmel Tunnel, and there may be parking restrictions along the Zion Canyon Scenic Drive. However, entering the park from this direction is worth it, and taking your RV into these parks isn't much of a hassle, especially if you plan ahead.
Parking is limited, especially for motor homes and other large vehicles, so park your RV where you'll be camping, and take shuttle buses as much as possible. Drive either early or late in the day, when there's less traffic -- the best times to explore the parks anyway.
If you'll be traveling in the parks in your RV and want to make it obvious that your campsite is occupied, carry something to leave in it, such as a cardboard box with "Site Taken" clearly written on it.
Because many of the national park campsites are not level, carry four or five short boards, or leveling blocks, to place under the RV's wheels. You can buy inexpensive levels at RV and hardware stores.
Elsewhere in this guide you'll find information on camping in Zion and Bryce Canyon national parks, on nearby federal and state lands, and in the parks' gateway towns. Those planning to camp elsewhere in the state can get information on Utah's national forests from the U.S. Forest Service Intermountain Region Office, 324 25th St., Ogden, UT 84401 (tel. 801/625-5306; www.fs.fed.us/r4). The Utah State Office of the U.S. Bureau of Land Management is at 440 W. 200 South, Ste. 500, Salt Lake City, UT 84145-0155 (tel. 801/539-4001; www.blm.gov/ut). For information on Utah's state parks, contact Utah State Parks, 1594 W. North Temple, Ste. 116, Salt Lake City, UT 84116 (tel. 877/887-2757 or 801/538-7220; www.stateparks.utah.gov).
Members of the American Automobile Association (AAA) can request the club's free Southwestern CampBook, which includes campgrounds and RV parks in Utah, Arizona, Colorado, and New Mexico; and several good national and regional campground guides are also available.
Renting an RV for Your National Park Trek -- If you own an RV, you're all set for a trip to Zion and Bryce Canyon National Parks; but if you don't, you might want to consider renting one.
But first, let's get one thing straight: You probably won't save a lot of money. It is possible to travel fairly cheaply if you limit your equipment to a tent, a pop-up tent trailer, or a small pickup truck camper, but renting a motor home will probably end up costing almost as much as driving a compact car, staying in moderately priced motels, and eating in family-style restaurants and cafes. That's because the motor home will go only one-third as far on a gallon of gas or diesel as your car, and they're expensive to rent (generally $1,000-$1,500 per week in midsummer).
But carrying your house with you lets you stay in relative comfort in the national park campgrounds, which many park visitors feel is one of the highlights of their trip. It also lets you stop for meals anytime and anywhere you choose, and you won't spend time searching for a restroom.
If you plan to fly into the area and rent an RV when you arrive, choose your starting point carefully. Rental rates are usually less in Las Vegas, Nevada, than in Salt Lake City, and most of Utah's national parks are closer to Vegas than to Salt Lake City anyway.
The country's largest RV rental company, with outlets in Las Vegas and Salt Lake City, is Cruise America (tel. 800/671-8042; www.cruiseamerica.com). RV rentals are also available from El Monte RV (tel. 888/337-2214; www.elmonterv.com) and Camping World (tel. 877/297-3687; www.rvrental.com). Information on rental agencies, as well as tips on renting, can be obtained from the Recreation Vehicle Rental Association (www.rvra.org).
Tips for Families
Visiting Bryce Canyon National Park with your children can be an especially rewarding experience, and is an excellent way for everyone to learn about the park's geology, plants, and animals, as well as to appreciate the unequaled beauty of nature.
However, the park is in a rural area, and nearby communities offer the basics but little else. There are no major chain grocers or discount stores, and although you will be able to buy items such as baby food and disposable diapers, you may not find the variety that you're used to. Parents should have a good supply of these items with them, stocking up in larger communities such as Las Vegas, Salt Lake City, or St. George. Carry any prescription drugs you might need, and make sure you have phone numbers for your doctor and pharmacist.
Bryce Canyon is a fantasyland that kids love -- even teenagers trying their hardest to be bored will have a great deal of trouble not being fascinated by the bizarre and whimsical stone shapes that are the essence of this park. Among the best trails for kids are Queen's Garden Trail and Navajo Loop Trail, which are not only fairly easy, but lead to some of the park's best hoodoos. Teenagers with a bit more stamina will probably enjoy the 8-mile Fairyland Loop.
During the summer, children can join the Junior Rangers, participate in a variety of programs, and earn free patches. Junior Rangers booklets are available at the visitor center. In addition, park rangers periodically conduct special kids' activities -- usually lasting about an hour -- on subjects such as the park ecology. Reservations are required; contact the visitor center for information.