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This small hotel is perfect for those who prefer to stay away from big hotels and chains. Though it lacks the amenities you'd find at a larger hotel, its charm and local flavor more than compensate. The 19 rooms are full of nice touches and architectural details, and the fabulous Gerlóczy Café is right below. The hotel entrance to the reception desk is through the café, and the building's pièce de résistance, a grand spiral wrought-iron staircase surrounded by gold walls and topped by a stained glass window, leads to the rooms. Each room is a bit different, with rich linens and décor that recall the turn of the 19th century, but with modern conveniences taken into account. Baths have lovely, deeply colored tile (monogrammed with G's on them), and some of the claw-foot tubs have gold-painted legs. Two of the most desirable rooms have balconies overlooking the lively square and café below; four of the rooms, more recently constructed, are in the attic level and have exposed ceiling beams. And if you are stirred in the morning by the aromas of bacon, coffee, and fresh croissants, you just have to stumble down the stairs into one of the city's loveliest places for breakfast.