Planning a trip to Budapest

Getting Around

Budapest has an extensive, efficient, and inexpensive public transportation system, but locals without global experiences, disagree with this. If you have some patience and minimal skills with reading maps, you can easily learn the system. Public transportation, however, is not without its glitches, due to the construction of a fourth metro line that will continue for the next few years. There have been interruptions throughout parts of the city at various points in time and this is likely to continue until 2013.

They are efficient enough to provide buses to replace any tram or metro that has been disrupted by construction, but it can be confusing.

The biggest disadvantage, however, is that metros and tram routes shut down for the night at around 11:10pm-11:30pm depending on the line. Some areas of the city, most notably the Buda Hills, are beyond the reach of some night bus services making taxi drivers happy to provide those late-night journeys. Increased night bus services to overcome some of these problems have been dramatic, but it is still not perfect with some long waits at dark and lonely bus stops. During rush hours, all forms of transport are crowded making it best to plan your travel around these times. A disadvantage, mostly pertinent to travelers, is that Castle Hill can be reached in only three ways by public transportation and all of these modes of transportation are quite crowded in the high seasons. Most importantly, crowded public transport is the place where you are most likely to be targeted by Budapest's professional pickpockets. Just keep your hand on your wallet and purse.

Fares -- Fares generally increase in January and July. Fares here were accurate at the time of submission. Transport passes provide unlimited transportation on all forms of public transportation (metro, bus, tram, trolleybus (an electric bus evident by the connection to wires above), some portions of the HÉV railway lines, and cogwheel railway) within Budapest city limits. If you are using individual tickets (vonaljegy), which cost 300 Ft apiece (children 5 and under or E.U. citizens 65 and over travel for free), you are required to validate the tickets as soon as you get on the transport. Each time you change lines, you have to validate a new ticket. You can buy single tickets at metro ticket windows, newspaper kiosks, and the occasional tobacco shop. There are also automated machines in most stations and at major transportation hubs, most of which have been recently modernized or installed and provide a somewhat reliable service, but I wouldn't depend on them. You can also buy a 10-ticket pack (tizes csomag) for 2,350 Ft.

I strongly recommend that you buy a transport pass, which does not require validation. They are available for 1 day (napijegy) for 1,550 Ft and are good for 24 hours from the day and time marked. The other pass options are 3 days (turistajegy) for 3,850 Ft, 7 days for 4,600 Ft or for longer stays, 14 days (kéthétibérlet) for 6,200 Ft. The 7- and 14-day passes need to be signed. If your plans are even longer, there is a 30-consecutive day pass (30 napos bérlet) at 9,400 Ft, which requires a photo. If you are going to be here for 4 to 5 days, the 7-day (hetijegy) pass is still a saving over individual tickets. Passes are so much more convenient than having a handful of tickets that you have to worry about remembering to validate each time or replenishing your stock at odd hours. Honestly, these will save you money in the long run.

While this standard ticket is valid on the metro, there are other types of optional single-ride metro tickets introduced years ago, making ticket buying a bit more complicated for those who want the exactly appropriate ticket for their journey. Personally, I don't think any traveler should waste time caring about this, but I have met some who do. A metro section ticket (metrószakaszjegy), at 250 Ft, is valid for a single metro trip stopping at three stations or less. A metro transfer ticket (metróátszállójegy), at 470 Ft, allows you to transfer from one metro line to another on the same ticket, without any limit to the number of stations that the train stops at during your journey.

Transportation inspectors are those dreaded people who, like the secret police of yesteryear, whip out a hidden blue or red (the old color, but still sometimes used) armband when approaching you or stand guard at the top or bottom of an escalator at the metro stops, or hop on the tram or buses after the door has closed. Some are uniformed, so you know you are heading into the lion's den. However, many have become trickier and more covert over the years and are often in plainclothes. It is not until they materialize the dreaded armband and greet you, that you realize you have had a false sense of security about having a peaceful ride. There were horror stories for years about how they treated people, screaming and yelling and causing a scene of hysterics when they caught someone without a ticket or an invalid one. Due to the hundreds of letters of complaints filling volumes, the BKV instituted mandatory customer service training meant to file down the teeth of these overly aggressive warriors of transportation justice. For some it has taken hold.

The fines for not having a validated ticket or pass are 6,000 Ft if paid on the spot or 10,000 Ft if paid later; this does not include the embarrassment of getting caught. An inspector has the right to ask for your passport (legally, you are required to carry it at all times) or ID and to call a police officer if the need arises. They do not have the authority to harm you or arrest you. Transportation tickets generally have an increase each January and June.

The Budapest Card, which is available for 1 or 3 days, does include transportation, but you should look over the other offerings to see if you will maximize your savings by purchasing it. Few museums are free with the card, while others are simply discounted. Realistically, how many museums or discounts included with the card are you really interested in?

Tips for Women Travelers

Budapest is one of the safest cities in Europe. Women travelers alone or in groups have nothing to fear touring the city or the country.

For general travel resources for women, go to www.frommers.com/planning.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

Hungary has not jumped on the green bandwagon yet, but these general resources may be helpful. The following websites provide valuable wide-ranging information on sustainable travel. For a list of even more sustainable resources, as well as tips and explanations on how to travel greener, visit www.frommers.com/planning.

• Responsible Travel (www.responsibletravel.com) is a great source of sustainable travel ideas; the site is run by a spokesperson for ethical tourism in the travel industry. Sustainable Travel International (www.sustainabletravelinternational.org) promotes ethical tourism practices, and manages an extensive directory of sustainable properties and tour operators around the world.

Tips for Senior Travelers

Senior discounts are hit and miss. The general rule for senior discounts, specifically for museum entry, is that they are reserved for E.U. citizens. However, more often than not, the cashier will not question your citizenship when you are purchasing a ticket, so request a senior discount from the start. If they ask for ID, chances are you will be refused if you are not an E.U. citizen, but odds are favorable that they will not ask at all. E.U. citizens 65 years old and over may ride all public transportation within Budapest for free, but you must have a valid ID or passport to show inspectors, especially at the metro stations. All E.U. citizens may tour Parliament for free by providing their passport.

Tips for Families

Hungarians tend to be very family focused, making the entire country especially family friendly. When traveling with children, I highly recommend the Budapest guide for kids "Benjamin in Budapest".

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Disabilities shouldn't stop anyone from traveling. However, with that said, Hungary is not a disabled-person-friendly country. Access is limited and it is difficult for wheelchairs to get into some hotels, many restaurants, and much of the public transportation. There are only a few exceptions to the rule, the 4 and 6 tram lines have platforms level with the tram door; however, other trams do not have accessibility. The metros have stairs and escalators, not elevators. For the few metro stops that have wheelchair elevators, a key is needed, but there is no attendant available to acquire it. Many sidewalks do not have ramps or slopes for a wheelchair and the majority of the stores have barriers that would make wheelchair access improbable to impossible. The disabled in Hungary have been fighting for better access since the change in government, but change is still slow. In researching this section, I didn't find any escorted tours listed for travelers with limitations to Hungary.

Money

Frommer's lists exact prices in the local currency. In this guide, hotels are the exception, because almost all of them quote prices in euros. However, rates fluctuate, so before departing consult a currency exchange website such as www.oanda.com/convert/classic to check up-to-the-minute rates.

The basic unit of currency in Hungary is the forint (Ft or Huf). Coins come in denominations of 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, and 200 Ft. Banknotes come in denominations of 500, 1,000, 5,000, 10,000, and 20,000 Ft. As of November 15, 2009, 200 Ft paper notes are no longer legal tender. If you saved some from a previous trip, they are no longer useable, but you have a lovely green bookmarker.

Telling coins apart can be confusing. The small gold-colored ones are 5 Ft. Ten and 50 Ft coins are both round and silver, but the 50 is larger in circumference. Both the 100 and 200 are dual-colored silver on the inside with a gold-colored band around the outside. The 100 Ft is the smaller of the two.

Paper money with all of the zeros really confuses travelers. The 500 Ft is reddish-brown, 1,000 Ft is blue, but the 2,000 Ft bill is also a brown color, while the 5,000 Ft is a greenish-blue. If you have a purplish-blue bill, it is 10,000 Ft, but the 20,000 Ft note looks like pink was smeared on it. Most importantly from 1,000 Ft and higher, they should all have a silver band on the left face side to be legal. Never exchange currency on the street unless it is at an authorized change kiosk. If you are approached on the street to change money, just walk away; it is illegal. I definitely advocate printing out an exchange rate cheat sheet from www.oanda.com/convert/cheatsheet before leaving home and carrying it in your wallet. When people get to an ATM, they lose all sense of how much money to withdraw because the zeros throw them off.

In Budapest, in the city center, you will find ATM machines from different banks within the same block, but elsewhere in the city there is one within a few blocks. We have no shortage of ATMs in the capital. In other cities and towns, there are fewer, but there are still an ample number.

Banks do not charge ATM fees other than what your home bank charges. All banks are not equal with their fees, so you should consult with your home bank to find out if they have a cooperative agreement with any banks in Hungary.

All ATM machines accept a four-digit pin code. OTP bank ATMs will accept up to an eight-digit pin code.

Some travelers have reported having problems using their debit cards as opposed to a credit card. In Hungary, which cards an establishment can accept is dependent on which bank they deal with. Not all banks will accept American Express or debit cards, but there is no rule of thumb as to whether to use a debit or credit card. One thing that you should know is that whether or not you use a debit or credit card, the cashier may give you a machine. If it is a debit card, enter your pin code. If it is a credit card, just press the green button, which authorizes the sale.

It is not a rare occurrence when paying the bill in a restaurant to find that suddenly the machine is not working. Sometimes this is due to their Internet connection to the bank, but other times, it means business has not been too good, so that cash influx is necessary.

Insisting you have no cash can sometimes miraculously fix the machine. At other times, someone gets left there, while someone else goes to an ATM.

If you were to leave one credit card at home, contrary to the commercials, it should be your American Express. This is the least widely accepted card here. If you have a Diners Club/MasterCard, you will be fine, but if you have a dedicated Diners Club card without the MasterCard tie-in, your chances of using it are close to nil.

For those with the new chip-embedded credit cards, you should make sure it is able to be swiped, as the chip technology has not hit Hungary as of yet.

Budapest has become increasing costly for residents as well as visitors. When we moved here in 2001, we could buy 3 days worth of groceries for 5,000 Ft. Now, that amount just about buys one day's worth. Inflation on prices has been 8 to 11% annually, including utilities and in the VAT has recently risen to 25% for goods and 18% for hotel rooms. Still a bargain when compared to other major cities like NY, London, and Tokyo, but it really depends on the currency conversion.

Traveler's checks are next to impossible to cash and only a few banks will take them, and not all branches of the banks do. American Express closed their office years ago, but are in conjunction with Western Union, where you will get the worst possible rates of exchange.

Tips for Student Travelers

Students can take advantage of the International Student Identity Card (ISIC). Additional museums and entertainment venues have been offering discounts more than they have done in the past. Still some require that you are a student in Hungary, while others will give a discount to any student with an international ID card. If you purchase your airline tickets through STA, you will receive basic health and life insurance and a 24-hour help line. The card is available for $22 from STA Travel (tel. 800/781-4040 in North America; or www.statravel.com), the world's biggest student travel agency. If you're no longer a student but are still 25 and under, you can get an International Youth Travel Card (IYTC) for the same price from the same people, which entitles you to fewer discounts. Travel CUTS (tel. 1/866/246-9762; www.travelcuts.com) offers similar services for both Canadian and U.S. residents. Irish students may prefer to turn to USIT (tel. 01/602-1904; www.usitnow.ie), an Ireland-based specialist in student, youth, and independent travel. Also, it is licensed in Australia. Note that in Hungary, student discounts are only given at some hostels, not all of them. Museums and other attractions may reserve the student discounts for Hungarian students only; ask anyway.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports

All citizens of Australia, Canada, Republic of Ireland, New Zealand, the U.K., and the U.S. entering Hungary are required to show a passport that will be valid for their entire length of stay.

For information, please contact the following agencies:

For Residents of Australia -- Contact the Australian Passport Information Service at tel. 131-232, or visit the government website at www.passports.gov.au.

For Residents of Canada -- Contact the central Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca).

For Residents of Ireland -- Contact the Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.irlgov.ie/iveagh).

For Residents of New Zealand -- Contact the Passport Office at tel. 0800/225-050 or tel. 04/474-8100, or log on to www.passports.govt.nz.

For Residents of the United Kingdom -- Visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency or contact the United Kingdom Passport Service at tel. 0870/521-0410 or search its website at www.ukpa.gov.uk.

For Residents of the United States -- To find your regional passport office, either check the U.S. State Department website or call the National Passport Information Center toll-free number (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information.

Visas

A specific visa is not required for visiting Hungary for citizens of Australia, Canada, Ireland, New Zealand, the U.K., or the U.S. However, when you enter the country, you are technically entering on a tourist visa, though there are no preparations needed; it is automatic when you enter the country. All but the British are permitted to stay for 90 days on a tourist visa. The British are allowed a 6-month stay. In order to work or study, you must apply for special visas before leaving your country of citizenship by applying to the Hungarian Embassy or Consulate there.

You may come across information about the Schengen visa. However, citizens from the countries above are exempt from needing this visa. There is a word of caution here. The Schengen countries are not all E.U. countries and not all E.U. countries are Schengen countries. The Schengen Agreement is a treaty between participating countries allowing free movement and travel across borders without passport control. However, there are occasional passport control spot checks. Schengen member states include Austria, Belgium, The Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, the Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, and Sweden. The U.K. and Ireland are not part of the Schengen zone.

The period of stay for citizens carrying passports from Australia, Canada, New Zealand, and the U.S. visiting the Schengen states is a total of 3 months cumulative stay in the combined member states during any 6-month period. Passport controllers may check your passport to ascertain whether or not you have overstayed your visa. Stays for longer require special visas issued prior to leaving your home country.

British and Irish nationals can visit Hungary as a tourist without a visa. Visitors from Australia, the U.S., Canada, and New Zealand may visit for 90 days as a tourist without a visa.

Note that in 2009, the Hungarian government announced it would be closing four embassies and a large number of missions, though the final list was not available at the time of this writing. Check this government website for current information: www.mfa.gov.hu/kum/en/bal/missions/missions_abroad/.

Australian and New Zealand citizens can obtain up-to-date visa information from the Hungary Embassy, Canberra, 17 Beale Crescent Deakin, ACT 2600 (tel. 6282/2555). The embassy website is www.mfa.gov.hu/emb/canberra.

In Sydney, the Consulate General's office is at Edgecliff Centre 203-233, Suite 405, New South Head Road (tel. 9328-7859) or check the consulate's website at www.mfa.gov.hu/cons/sydney.

British subjects can obtain up-to-date information from the Hungarian Embassy at 35 Eaton Place, London SW1X 8BY (tel. 020/7201-34-40; www.mfa.gov.hu/kulkepviselet/UK/en/mainpage.htm).

Irish citizens can obtain up-to-date information through the Hungarian Embassy, 2 Fitzwilliam Place, Dublin 2, Ireland (tel. 01/661-2902, 661-2903; www.mfa.gov.hu/emb/dublin).

Customs

What You Can Bring Into Hungary -- You're allowed to bring duty-free into Hungary 250 cigarettes, 2 liters of wine, and 1 liter of spirits. There is no limit to the amount of money you may bring into the country. However, you may not take out of the country more than 1,000,000 forints in Hungarian currency.

What You Can Take Home from Hungary -- Returning U.S. citizens who have been away for at least 48 hours are allowed to bring back, once every 30 days, $800 worth of merchandise duty-free. You'll pay a flat rate of duty on the next $1,000 worth of purchases. Any dollar amount beyond that is subject to duties at whatever rates apply. On mailed gifts, the duty-free limit is $200. Be sure to keep your receipts or purchases accessible to expedite the declaration process. Note: If you owe duty, you are required to pay on your arrival in the United States using cash, personal check, government, or traveler's check, money order, or, in some locations, a Visa or MasterCard.

To avoid paying duty on foreign-made personal items you own before your trip, bring along a bill of sale, insurance policy, jeweler's appraisal, or receipts of purchase. You can also register items that can be readily identified by a permanently affixed serial number or marking, for instance laptops, cameras, and CD players, with Customs before you leave. Take the items to the nearest Customs office or register them with Customs at the airport from which you're departing. You'll receive, at no cost, a Certificate of Registration, which allows duty-free entry for the life of the item.

With few exceptions, you cannot bring fresh fruits or vegetables into the United States; however, if your trip continues from here to other European countries, you will need to know their restrictions also. Some countries in Europe are now restricting the transport of Hungarian salami, of which Pick is a famous brand. Many rules change frequently, so it is best to have the most current information on hand. For specifics on what you can bring back, download the invaluable free pamphlet Know Before You Go. Go to www.cbp.gov/xp/cgov/travel and browse "Travel Smart." Alternatively, contact the U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave., NW, Washington, DC 20229 (tel. 877/287-8667) and request the pamphlet.

For a clear summary of Canadian rules, write for the booklet I Declare, issued by the Canada Border Services Agency (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or tel. 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca). Canada allows its citizens a C$750 exemption, and you're allowed to bring back duty-free 1 carton of cigarettes, 1 can of tobacco, 40 imperial ounces of liquor, and 50 cigars. In addition, you're allowed to mail gifts to Canada valued at less than C$60 a day, provided they're unsolicited and don't contain alcohol or tobacco (write on the package "Unsolicited gift, under C$60 value"). All valuables should be declared on the Y-38 form before departure from Canada, including serial numbers of valuables you already own, such as expensive foreign cameras. Note: The C$750 exemption can be used only once a year and only after a 7-day absence.

Citizens of the U.K. who are returning from a European Union (E.U.) country will go through a separate Customs exit especially for E.U. travelers. In essence, there is no limit on what you can bring back from an E.U. country, provided the items are for personal use (this includes gifts), and you have already paid the necessary duty and tax. Customs laws, however, set out guidance levels. If you bring in more than these levels, you may be asked to prove that the goods are for your own use. Guidance levels on goods bought in the E.U. for personal use are 3,200 cigarettes, 200 cigars, 400 cigarillos, 3 kilograms of smoking tobacco, 10 liters of spirits, 90 liters of wine, 20 liters of fortified wine (such as port or sherry), and 110 liters of beer.

The duty-free allowance in Australia is A$400 or for those 17 and under, A$200. Citizens can bring in 250 cigarettes or 250 grams of loose tobacco, and 1,125 milliliters of alcohol. If you're returning with valuables you already own, such as foreign-made cameras, you should file form B263. A helpful brochure is available from Australian consulates or Customs offices called Know Before You Go. For more information, call the Australian Customs Service at tel. 1300/363-263, or log onto www.customs.gov.au.

The duty-free allowance for New Zealand is NZ$700. Citizens over 17 can bring in 200 cigarettes, 50 cigars, or 250 grams of tobacco (or a mixture of all three if their combined weight doesn't exceed 250g), plus 4.5 liters of wine and beer, or 1.125 liters of liquor. New Zealand currency does not carry import or export restrictions. Fill out a certificate of export, listing the valuables you are taking out of the country; that way, you can bring them back without paying duty. Most questions are answered in a free pamphlet available at New Zealand consulates and Customs offices: New Zealand Customs Guide for Travellers, Notice no. 4. For more information, contact New Zealand Customs, The Customhouse, 17-21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington (tel. 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786; www.customs.govt.nz).

Medical Requirements

There are no medical requirements for entering Hungary.

Health & Insurance

No shots or inoculations are required for entry to Hungary. To be on the safe side, bring enough of any prescription or other medication you may need. It is also good practice to bring along a copy of all prescriptions in their generic form in case you run out of any medications, but you will need a Hungarian doctor to write a prescription for the pharmacy to dispense it. Not all medications available in other countries are available here, so the doctor may need to substitute. Over-the-counter medications are readily available from a pharmacy, but sunscreen and other toiletries can be purchased at local shops.

Common Ailments

Dietary Red Flags -- You will see many people carrying bottles of water, but the tap water is perfectly safe to drink. If you have food allergies, explain it strongly to the wait staff for them to take you seriously. Vegetarians will find it a bit difficult to navigate the meat-loving Hungarian menus. In non-vegetarian restaurants, innocent dishes could very well have meat included in them without it showing in the English translation. Press the staff for details. For those with religious restrictions, this is especially important. I have ordered a beef dish, only to find it accompanied by a piece of pork chop. I have included Kosher restaurants in this guide and one Indian restaurant that serves Halal dishes.

Bugs, Bites & Other Wildlife Concerns -- Lake Balaton has had an increasingly bad mosquito infestation and for whatever reason, they have decided not to continue the annual spraying as of this writing.

There have been instances of wild boar sightings in the Buda Hills. Mothers with babies are extremely protective and will attack anyone who is perceived as a threat.

Respiratory Illnesses -- Budapest can get smoggy at times during the summer, but it never lasts longer than a few days before it blows off. Outside of the city, the air is clean.

Extreme Weather Exposure -- Budapest has been known to have sudden non-predictable storms with torrential rain and heavy winds that seem to come from nowhere. These occur at the end of spring and end of summer, but they pass within hours.

What to Do If You Get Sick Away from Home

For American-type care, we recommend the First Med Center, I. Hattyu u. 14, 5th floor (tel. 1/224-9090; www.firstmedcenters.com), a private outpatient clinic with two U.S. board-certified physicians and several English-speaking Hungarian doctors. There is an OBGYN on staff, and an ultrasound machine on the premises; referrals are available for specialists. It does have a growing list of U.S. insurance companies that it has contracts with and may be able to direct the bill. Otherwise, payment is expected at the time of service (credit cards accepted), but the office will provide coded invoices in English in a form acceptable to most insurance carriers. The clinic is located in a modern building on the street ending at the Mammut shopping mall, just a few minutes by foot from Moszkva tér (Red line).

Also recommended is the Rózsakert Medical Center (tel. 1/391-5903) located in the Rózsakert Shopping Center, II. Gábor Áron u. 74-78/a. It has the largest pool of American-trained physicians in Hungary with doctors on call 24 hours.

Another suitable facility is IMS, a private outpatient clinic at XIII. Váci út 184 (tel. 1/329-8423), with English-speaking doctors; it's reached via the Blue metro line (Gyöngyös utca). The same drill applies with respect to payment and insurance claims. IMS also operates an emergency service after hours and on weekends at III. Vihar u. 29 (tel. 1/388-8257).

Safety

Overall, Budapest is one of the safest cities in Europe. There are problems with pickpockets on crowded buses, trams, or metros. Caution should also be taken in crowded shops.

The U.S. government as well as others cautions travelers against patronizing certain bars and clubs. You can view the list here: http://hungary.usembassy.gov/tourist_advisory.html.

Due to some political issues, there have been demonstrations that have suddenly erupted during various times of the year. For the most part, they tend to localize in the park in front of the U.S. Embassy, in front of Parliament, and at Heroes Square. In the past, there have not been any threats to tourists, if you just stay clear of those areas on the day of the problems. Most of them are short-lived, so will not disrupt your stay. Your accommodation should be able to give you a warning if something happens to occur during your stay.

Gay travelers should take care and caution during the time of the Gay Pride events, which are no longer specific dates due to problems in the past. They are now held at varied times each year. The conservative right has demonstrated and attacked marchers in the past. Otherwise, there have been no problems for tourists.

Women who are scantily clad may find men will give them the sexist wolf-whistles and comments, but other than that they are harmless. Until recently, men beyond 25 years old or so did not wear shorts in public during warm months, but this is slowly changing. Many men do not wear hats, but a cap is usually a sure sign of a tourist.

Drinking alcohol on the street, when not seated at a cafe, or on public transportation is illegal.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

Being part of the E.U., Hungary has had to modify its laws regarding gay and lesbian rights, though some older gay people say they had it better under Socialism. Either way, sexual orientation is not a legal issue in Hungary, but it is still a social one. Gays and lesbians have a tendency to stay invisible as much as possible. Budapest has held an annual Pride March, but in 2007, there was a violent outbreak prompted by far-right protestors. The 2008 parade was attacked with acid-filled eggs by the far right group, the Magyar Garda, causing the 2009 parade to be postponed twice. Other times of the year, there have not been any problems of major concern.

In Hungary, there are far fewer lesbian events and no bars specifically for women. In Budapest, there are only two exclusively gay bars and both are for men only. This is not a hotspot for those seeking a primarily gay orientated vacation. The International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA; tel. 800/448-8550 or tel. 954/776-2626; www.iglta.org) is the trade association for the gay and lesbian travel industry, and offers an online directory of gay- and lesbian-friendly travel businesses; go to their website and click on "Members."

Spartacus International Gay Guide (Bruno Gmünder Verlag; www.spartacusworld.com/gayguide), an excellent travel resource to the top worldwide cities and resorts, includes Budapest and other cities in Hungary. It is available at many bookstores, or from any online bookseller.

Tips on Accommodations

Budapest's accommodations run the gamut of categories from beautiful, historic gems to those that have sprung from the ground up, and those that have remained the same from the beginning. They also run the gamut on prices too, but with this sluggish economy, don't hesitate to bargain with the larger hotels for a better rate or an upgrade. Check their website for specials and then follow-up with e-mails. Get the final confirmation in writing, but make sure you have remembered VAT and tourist tax, which can add a substantial amount to an otherwise reasonable room rate.

Bear in mind that many European standards call a room with two twin beds a double. If you want a double bed, you will need to request it specifically.

Extra beds or cots are generally available also. Hungarian hotels often blur the use of the words apartment and suite to describe bedrooms with a living room in it or connected rooms including a bedroom and living room. Some have a kitchen, while others do not.

During the summer months, air-conditioning can be a major concern; the small hotels, pensions, and hostels are less likely to have it than more expensive properties. Some smaller places may have mobile air-conditioning units available for an added fee.

Escorted & Package Tours

Budapest and Hungary are on the top of the list for Jewish travel and tours, but generally these also include a greater scope of travel that includes Prague, Krakow, Warsaw, and Vienna. For Jewish travel within Budapest or Hungary, contact Chosen Tours or Underguide Tours.

Academic Trips & Language Classes

Central European University, V. Nádor u. 5 (tel. 1/327-3000; www.ceu.hu), boasts students from 90 countries with instructors from 30 countries. Based in Budapest, it is accredited by both the Hungarian and the U.S. accreditation agencies, through the University of the State of New York. The language of instruction is English for the entire extensive list of Master and Doctoral programs. Summer programs are ideal for those who want to take a course without leaving their home university. Generous financial aid is offered to all nationalities.

Many universities are now offering Budapest as an option for a study abroad semester. University students should check with their school for opportunities.

If you think you want to learn Hungarian, one of the schools that brags about having the best reputation and longevity having opened in 1927 is the Debreceni Nyári Egyetem Budapesti Nyelviskolája or Debrecen-Budapest Language School. The Budapest location is at V. Báthory u. 4 II/I (tel. 30/928-6577 mobile phone only; www.nyariegyetem.hu). Summer intensives are available in Debrecen, Sopron, and sometimes Eger. The 60-120 lessons, at 6 lessons per day over 2 to 4 weeks will have you speaking elementary Hungarian. Less grueling schedules are the semester-long programs offered only in Debrecen. They can arrange for accommodations for an extra fee. Course fees run 576€-1,000€ if you opt for accommodations and the meal plan.

BrainTurbo XI. Villányi út 60, 2nd floor?(tel. 30/230-1706 mobile phone only) has an innovative approach, claiming to be four times faster than other language-teaching methods learning 1,500 Hungarian vocabulary words in only 12 weeks without homework. First you lie on your back wearing special glasses, while a series of words and sentences are repeated to you both in English and Hungarian putting your brain in a receptive state for learning. Afterward, a teacher helps you to recall the words and expressions you listened to while relaxed. Because the Hungarian software is fairly recent, there is no track record yet to validate the effectiveness. If you are curious, try out the free trial lesson. The entire 12-week course is a hefty 225,000 Ft. Save 10% by signing up for a free Funzine club membership at www.funzine.hu.

Adventure & Wellness Trips

Much of Hungary is located over natural spring waters allowing many of the towns and cities an opportunity to create wellness oasis spots. You should be aware that the mineral content of the water is believed to have healing properties for diseases and ailments related to skin conditions, respiratory, muscle, or bone problems. Due to this, a good number of the "wellness" centers are also medical centers providing physiotherapy and hydrotherapy. Large spas have doctors on the premises for diagnosis and treatment on the spot. Thermals generally have natural spring pools of different temperatures, wet and dry saunas, and whirlpool baths. As part of the medical treatment, massage is included in the list of services, but other services have been added such as manicures and pedicures.

However, if you are looking for a luxurious pampered wellness opportunity, look over the options of services provided before deciding on a location as the term "wellness" has broad-based usage. Lake Balaton is also popular for wellness spas of the relaxing and luxurious varieties, but as an aid in making a decision Wellness Weekend (www.wellnessweekend.hu) has a number of luxury hotels in Budapest, Eger, Heviz, and Sopron with photos and last-minute discounts.

Dental & Medical Trips

As humorous as it may seem to include dental or medical tourism in a tour guide, Hungary has been known for decades for its high-quality and low-cost dental services. Many Austrians and Germans have been coming here for years and the good word has extended through the rest of Europe and over to the U.S. The dental tourism industry here has complete staff who speak English. Services include whitening, root canals, dentures, and cosmetic implantations. Most have labs on the premises, so there is little waiting time for dentures and if an adjustment is needed, they are on the spot. Some agencies have teamed with plastic surgeons to create a whole new you. I have no personal experience with any of these, but have heard positive reports.

Pasarét Dental II. Pasaréti út 8 (tel. 1/488-7919; www.pasaretdental.hu) has been around for a long time and has a good reputation for all things dental.

Meditours Hungary VII. Nagydiófa u. 19. (tel. 1/787-5564; www.meditourshungary.com). The only medical tourism program owned and operated by a medical doctor, American-Hungarian Dr. Randy Simor, takes great pride in arranging the most competent services in the city for medical tourists. Meditours will assist in making all of the necessary arrangements once you arrive, airport meet and greet, accommodations, and handholding every step of the way. Not only do they offer cosmetic dental services, but also cosmetic surgery, anti-aging, and IntraLasik eye sight correction surgery as well as others. Their hosts are on-call 24/7 for any needs you have with the mobile phone they provide for your use during your stay. I used their agency for the IntraLasik eye surgery option and was very impressed.

Kreativ Dent (www.kreativdent.eu) is a New York-based agency that arranges dental tourism packages to Budapest. Outside of Budapest, in the town of Mosonmagyarovar, close to Sopron, you have your choice of over 150 dentists, but you may want to consider H@ppy Dent at Zichy Mihály 2 (tel. 96/566-472; http://happy-dent.net). They don't assist with transportation, but they will help with a place to stay. Diamant Dent also in Mosonmagyarovar at Regi Vamhaz tér 11 (tel. 96/ 579-067; www.diamantdent.hu) has its own hotel and shuttle to pick you up and transport you to the clinic.

Food & Wine Trips

If you love food and wine as an introduction into a culture, you may want to try the tours offered by Taste Hungary (www.tastehungary.com), co-owned by American Carolyn Bánfalvi, author of A Food and Wine Lover's Companion to Hungary: with Budapest Restaurants and Trips to the Wine Country. They only have a website presence and all bookings are through their site. Wine Time Hungary, VII. Klauzál tér 13. fszt. 5 (tel. 1/788-9645; www.winetime.hu) specializes in wine tours to the regions where the grapes are grown. In Budapest, they offer virtual food and wine tours. Underguide Tours (tel. 06/30-908-1597 mobile phone only; golocal@underguide) are magicians with creating customized tours and can create the food or wine tour of your choice.

Volunteer & Working Trips

Habitat for Humanity (tel. 1/354-1084; www.habitat.hu), with an office at VI. Podmaniczky u. 91, has a well-established program in Hungary. None of the building occurs in Budapest, but in smaller villages. They have specific dates when they build; therefore, you will need to schedule your trip around theirs if you want to be part of this endeavor.

Quite a different cultural yet volunteer experience can be had with Servas International (http://joomla.servas.org). The program was started in 1949 by Bob Luitweiler as a peace movement. Now active in 100 countries, it is a worthwhile way to experience parts of Hungary as part of their traveler program where Hungarians voluntarily open their home and lives to host you for short periods of time. You need to apply at least 4 weeks before you travel in your home country to be approved.

Escorted General-Interest Tours

Go Today (www.go-today.com) offers a 6-night tour of Budapest or other tours that include Vienna or Prague. Viking River Cruises (www.vikingrivercruises.com) proposes travel opportunities via the Danube, including Budapest and other smaller towns along the way as part of their expanded country tours starting in Germany, continuing from here to Bratislava and Vienna.

For more information on Escorted General-Interest Tours, including questions to ask before booking your trip, see www.frommers.com/planning.

Calendar of Events

March

Budapest Spring Festival (Budapesti Øszi Fesztivál). For 2 weeks, performances of opera, concerts, dance, and drama are held at all the major halls and theaters of Budapest. Simultaneously, temporary exhibitions open in many of Budapest's museums. Tickets are available from the Festival Ticket Service, (tel. 1/486-3311, weekdays 10am to 5pm or from http://bof.hu/. If you have questions, write to tickets@festivalcity.hu. Book your tickets as soon as possible as the best shows sell out a few days after they are announced. The festival runs mid- to late March.

Hollóko's Easter Festival. During Easter in this charming, small town in northeastern Hungary, villagers wear traditional costumes and participate in a folk festival featuring traditional song, dance, and foods. For information, contact the Hungarian Arts Festivals Federation (tel. 1/202-1095; www.artsfestivals.hu). Held on Easter Day, it is as popular with Hungarians as with travelers, so expect a crowd.

June, July & August

Open-Air Theater Programs. Budapest has a rich variety of open-air performances throughout the city during the summer. Highlights include opera and ballet on Margaret Island in the Open-Air Theater; folklore, and dance at the Buda Park Theater; musicals in Margaret Island's Városmajor Theater; and classical music recitals in the Dominican Courtyard at the Hilton Hotel. On the last weekend of June through the second weekend of July, the Chain Bridge has a band on either side with the entire bridge hosting a fair. For information, pick up a copy of Budapest Panorama from Tourinform, listing all events during the given month. Open-Air events are June through August.

Szeged Summer Festival. Szeged, the proud capital of the Great Plain, is home to a summer-long series of cultural events (ballet, opera, rock opera, and open-air theater). For information, call tel. 62/471-411; www.szegediszabadteri.hu. June through August.

Organ Concerts, Budapest. Concerts are given in the Matthias Church, in the lovely Castle District of Buda. June through August. In addition, Budapest's largest church, St. Stephen's Basilica, also hosts concerts outside the front doors. If you don't care about sitting, you can listen for free. July through August.

International Palace Tournament, Visegrád. Each summer, this ancient town hosts an authentic medieval festival replete with dueling knights on horseback, and early music and dance. Contact Visegrád Tours, RÉV u. 15, Visegrád (tel. 26/398-090; www.palotajatekok.hu). Second weekend in July.

"Budafest" Summer Opera and Ballet Festival, Budapest. This summer festival (usually held during the tail end of July and six times in August) is the only time to see a summer performance at the glorious Hungarian State Opera House in Budapest. Tickets are available at the Opera House box office at VI. Andrássy út 20 (tel. 1/331-2550; www.opera.hu).

International Guitar Festival, Esztergom. This stately town on the Danube hosts a guitar festival that features performers from around the world. The Basilica hosts the classical concert performances. For information, contact Gran Tours, Esztergom at Széchenyi tér 25 (tel. 33/502-001; www.guitarfestival.hu). First week of August every other year; the next festival is scheduled for 2011.

Formula One Grand Prix, Budapest. One of the European racing circuit's most important annual events is held at Budapest's HungaroRing in Mogyoród. Hotels increase their rates considerably for this event, so plan ahead. Call tel. 28/444-444 or check out www.hungaroring.hu. First week or second weekend in August.

Island Festival (Sziget Fesztivál), Óbuda Island in the Danube. Established in 1994 as Hungary's very own Woodstock, the Sziget Festival (tel. 1/372-0650; www.sziget.hu) is a weeklong music festival that draws people from all over Europe, but the scope is now worldwide. It is one of the largest music festivals in Europe, gaining in popularity each year. The event features foreign and local rock, folk, jazz, world music, and other groups on dozens of stages playing each day from early afternoon to the wee hours of the morning. Camping is available. You can get details and pick up a program schedule at Tourinform or check out their website. Usually begins the second week of August.

Traditional Handicraft Fair, Budapest. The Castle District is the site of a 3-day annual handicraft fair, which draws vendors from across Hungary and from Hungarian enclaves in neighboring countries, especially Romania. The wares are generally handmade and of high quality. This is part of the St. Stephen's Day celebrations . August 20.

St. Stephen's Day, Budapest. Hungary's national day. The country's first king and patron saint is celebrated with cultural events and a dramatic firework display over the Danube at 9pm. St. Stephen's mummified hand is paraded through the streets. Hungarians also celebrate their constitution on this day and ceremoniously welcome the first new bread from the crop of July wheat. August 20.

National Jewish Festival, Budapest. Celebrating its 11th year in 2010, this annual festival enriches the Hungarian cultural scene. The festival features a variety of Jewish culture-related events. Features range from klezmer music to a book fair, from ballet to cabaret, held at various locations for the different venues offered. For information, contact the Tourism and Cultural Center of the Budapest Jewish Community, Síp u. 12 (tel. 1/343-0420; www.jewishfestival.hu). Late August into early September; call for exact dates.

September

Budapest International Wine Festival. This festival, in Budapest's Castle District, features wine tastings, displays, and auctions, as well as folk and classical music performances. Each year, there is a guest country that shares its wines. The sponsor is the Hungarian Viniculture Foundation, XI. Bartók Béla út 152 (tel. 1/203-8507; www.winefestival.hu). Early September.

Budapest International Fair. For 10 days, Budapest's HungExpo grounds fill with displays of Europe's latest consumer goods. (tel. 1/263-6000, www.hungexpo.hu). Mid-September.

Budapest Art Weeks. In celebration of the opening of the fall season, special classical music and dance performances spring up for 3 weeks in all the city's major halls. For information, contact the Hungarian Arts Festivals Federation (tel. 1/318-8165) or pick up a Budapest Panorama at Tourinform. The festivals' traditional start is September 25, the day of Béla Bartók's death.

Contemporary Music Weeks, Budapest. Held in conjunction with the Budapest Art Weeks, this 3-week festival features contemporary music performances in all the capital's major halls. For information, contact the Hungarian Arts Festivals Federation (tel. 1/318-8165). Starts the end of September. Note that the Liszt Ferenc Academy closed in fall 2009 for a 2-year renovation.

For an exhaustive list of events beyond those listed here, check http://events.frommers.com, where you'll find a searchable, up-to-the-minute roster of what's happening all over the world.

Staying Connected

For calls within Hungary, but outside of Budapest, dial the city code followed by the six or seven-digit number. For calls within Budapest, just dial the seven-digit number. If the number is a mobile phone, to call from a non-mobile phone, you must first dial 06, then the mobile numbers (20, 30, or 70) preceding the seven digits: for example 06/70-315-8828, if you were to call me from a non-mobile phone.

Calls to toll-free area codes 800, 888, 877, and 866 do not work from Hungary. You should keep notes of non-toll-free numbers for banks and credit card companies in case of emergencies. International calls require the use of one of the following services. Credit card calls, collect calls or person-to-person calls using AT&T dial tel. 06/8000-1112, 1113, or 1114. MCI call tel. 06/8000-1411, or Sprint dial tel. 06/8000-1877. Then follow the voice prompts from there. They will direct you for all of your choices.

Mobile Phones

If you have a mobile phone, which is a tri-band phone, it will allow you to use it in Hungary and the rest of Europe. Travelers from Europe, nearly all of North America, Australia, and New Zealand are covered by having this type of phone as it works in your home network as well. U.S. travelers should note that although Sprint phones claim to work in Hungary, so far I have not found one person who has had luck with it.

If you have an unlocked phone, one that is not tied to your home mobile carrier, then you can buy a SIM card from Pannon, T-Mobile, or Vodafone once in Hungary, giving you a Hungarian mobile number. This will greatly reduce the cost of making phone calls as they will no longer be long distance.

Hungarian mobile phone services make it incredibly difficult for anyone other than citizens or legal residents to rent or buy mobile phones. The only alternative is to purchase a phone from a store not associated with a mobile carrier and then purchase a SIM card on a pay-as-you-go plan. Money will need to be added to it to keep it working.

Depending on the company and SIM card, your calls may be restricted to calling domestically only, though you will be able to receive incoming calls from abroad. Domestic calls cost about 25 Ft a minute.

Internet & E-Mail

When you're in Budapest, it is almost impossible not to find somewhere offering Wi-Fi for free or for the cost of a coffee. Look for blue-and-white Wi-Fi signs on doors of restaurants, bars, cafes, bookstores, and even some shops. With a downturn in the economy, this is the hook to get people into an establishment hoping something will strike their fancy once they are in the door. Many hotels now give Wi-Fi away for free as an added attraction to a lackluster occupancy slump. If you didn't pack a netbook or laptop, there are plenty of Internet cafes waiting to serve your need to surf the net or read e-mail. If an Internet cafe is not obvious from the street level, just keep an eye open for an A-frame sign showing the way to a cafe either up or down a flight of stairs. There are no shortages of Internet connections here.

Tips for Black Travelers

Since the last edition, I have received a number of e-mails from concerned travelers of African and Asian descent questioning if Budapest is safe for minorities. Budapest has become home for a growing number of refugees who have had to leave their homes in different African nations as well as many immigrants from China and other Asian nations. All have integrated into the fabric of the society, so no longer raise any eyebrows from Hungarians. Budapest is home to a Chinese-Hungarian bilingual elementary school for further developing relations between the countries. Outside of Budapest, you may encounter long stares, but just curiosity and nothing to fear.

Fast Facts

Area Codes -- The country code for Hungary is 36. All telephone numbers in this guide are listed with the city code/telephone number. The area code for Budapest is 1.

Automobile Organizations -- The Hungarian Auto Club (Magyar Autóklub) operates a 24-hour free emergency breakdown service: Call tel. 188 (note, however, that not all operators speak English).

The Autóklub also has an International Aid Service Center, at II. Rómer Flóris u. 4/a (tel. 1/345-1744), which was established specifically for international motorists; however, our attempts to get assistance with information were a bit frustrating. Stay on the line, you will be connected. Services provided include emergency aid, towing, and technical advice, but the center may refer you to the rental company first, which in turn may have to make the contact with the auto club.

Business Hours -- Most stores are open Monday through Friday from 10am to 6pm and Saturday from 10am to 2pm with a few closing earlier at 1pm. The majority of stores are closed Sunday, except those in central tourist areas or malls. Very few shop owners and restaurateurs close for 2 weeks in August. On weekdays, food stores open early, at around 6 or 7am, and close around 6 or 7pm. Convenience stores, called "nonstops," are open 24 hours and just about every neighborhood has one.

Banks in general are open Monday through Friday from 8am to 4pm. Some banks open a half-hour later on some days, but stay open an hour later that day too. There is no shortage of banking services or automatic teller machines (ATMs) in the city.

Drinking Laws -- The legal drinking age in Hungary is 18. Beer, wine, and hard alcohol are sold everywhere including grocery stores, nonstop convenience stores, and even some discount stores. A few neighborhoods within different districts have started to stop the sales of alcohol at 11pm for nonstop stores, which are the only outlets open at that hour, aside from bars and clubs. This is a district-regulated law and is not city-wide; sometimes it is only within a particular neighborhood within a district. Bars do not have legally mandated closing times, but they may have to close outside seating in warm weather and move patrons inside to keep the noise down. Don't be surprised if a bar is still open at 5am.

Although it is not uncommon to see people drinking alcohol on public transportation in the late evenings, it is illegal if caught. Drinking on the street is also, but that is totally ignored, unless someone is causing a disturbance. Don't carry open containers of alcohol in your vehicle. Don't even think about driving after having had a drink -- Hungary has a zero-tolerance law for drunk drivers and this is strictly enforced if you're stopped.

Electricity -- With the exception of the U.K., Hungary as the rest of Europe has the same double round prongs on their plugs. Electric is 220 to 240 volts AC (50 cycles) as in most of Europe, Australia, and New Zealand. For most things electrical, all you will need is an adapter to fit into the wall outlet. Adapters are easily found in any electric or most computer stores. For the most part, converters that change 110-120 volts to 220-240 volts are impossible to find, so bring one with you.

Embassies & Consulates -- The Australian Embassy is at XII. Királyhágó tér 8-9 (tel. 1/457-9777). The Canadian Embassy is at II. Ganz u. 12-14 (tel. 1/392-3360). The Republic of Ireland Embassy is at V. Szabadság tér 7 (tel. 1/301-4960); the United Kingdom Embassy is at V. Harmincad u. 6 (tel. 1/266-2888); and the United States Embassy is at V. Szabadság tér 12 (tel. 1/475-4400). New Zealand does not have an embassy in Budapest, but the U.K. Embassy can handle matters for New Zealand citizens.

Emergencies -- The general emergency number in Europe is tel. 112. Dial tel. 104 for an ambulance, tel. 105 for the fire department, tel. 107 for the police, and tel. 188 for car breakdown service. tel. 1/438-8080 is a 24-hour hotline in English for reporting crime.

Gasoline (Petrol) -- Taxes are already included in printed prices at the pump. Prices may be shocking, but remember 3.8 liters equals one U.S. gallon.

Holidays -- Banks, government offices, post offices, most stores, some restaurants, and some museums are closed on the following legal national holidays: January 1 (New Year's Day), March 15 (Anniversary of 1848 uprising against the Austrian rule), Easter and Easter Monday (dates change annually), May 1 (Labor Day), Whit Monday (date changes annually), August 20 (Feast of St. Stephen), October 26 (Anniversary of the 1956 Revolution), November 1 (All Saints' Day, December 24 (stores close half day), December 25 (Christmas) and December 26 (Boxing Day).

Insurance -- It's always a good idea to have travel cancellation insurance, but especially so with the volatile state of some airlines. Travelers should contact their medical insurance carrier to see what their policy is for out-of-country medical expenses. U.S. travelers should note that Medicare does not provide any coverage outside of the U.S.

Travelers from the U.K. and the Republic of Ireland should carry their European Health Insurance Card (EHIC), which replaced the E111 form as proof of entitlement to free/reduced-cost medical treatment abroad. (www.ehic.org.uk/www.ehic.ie). Note, that the EHIC only covers "necessary medical treatment" and for repatriation costs, lost money, baggage, or cancellation, travel insurance should always be sought.

For information on travelers' insurance, trip cancellation insurance, and medical insurance while traveling please visit www.frommers.com/planning.

Internet Access -- Most hotels now provide free Wi-Fi access. Outside of the hotel, you will find dozens of places where one drink will allow you to stay as long as you want to crawl the web. Look for Wi-Fi signs on windows, doors, and standing signs outside doors of cafes, restaurants, and bookstores.

Language -- You will find more people who speak English in Budapest than you will in the outer regions. My rule of thumb on the streets is to ask a young person. Most young people will speak some English, although they may not be fluent. For basic survival Hungarian, see Useful Terms & Phrases in the back of the book.

Laundromats -- Finding a Laundromat is close to impossible, since every home has their own machines. There is a service in Budapest, but it is not self-serve. You leave your clothes and return for them later. It is simply named Landromat-Mosómata in district VI at 24-26 Ó utca, (tel. 06-20-392-5702). The hours are Monday to Friday 9am to 7pm and weekends 10am to 4pm. Washing, drying, and folding will run 1,800 Ft for up to 9kg (20 lbs). Ironing is available for an extra charge. For dry cleaning services, look for Tiszta Kék at VII. Rákóczi út 2, (tel. 1/266-2379). Their hours are Monday to Friday 7am to 7pm and Saturday 8am to 2pm.

Legal Aid -- International visitors should contact their embassy or consulate as soon as possible. If an officer insists on a fine being paid immediately while on a highway, ask for a receipt to show the fine was paid to avoid problems later, especially if you have rented a car. If you have a minor traffic accident, generally the police will not get involved unless it is insisted upon. People generally just exchange insurance information.

Mail -- The postal system is not the most efficient or honest, so take great care with sending or receiving packages. Even letters mailed "Registered with a Return Receipt Requested" card have not made it to their destination without issues. Most post offices are open Monday through Friday from 8am to 6pm; however, with the current state of the economy, many have or will be shortening their hours on an office-by-office situation. Sending postcards to the U.K. or Ireland is 210 Ft, while Australia, Canada, New Zealand, or the U.S. is 230 Ft. Mailing a letter under 20 gm to the UK is 270 Ft, but Australia, Canada, New Zealand, or the U.S. are all 300 Ft. For packages, note there is a high percentage rate that never arrive at their destination, so I would avoid it at any cost. FedEx or UPS are prohibitively expensive for even sending a document. For example, sending a letter to the U.S. can cost over 5,000 Ft.

Newspapers & Magazines -- For local news or magazines in English, you can find The Budapest Times at most large newsstands or your hotel. Funzine, Where, and Time Out magazines are available at hotels, restaurants, or the Tourinform offices.

Police -- Dial (tel.) 107 or general emergency dial tel. 112.

Smoking -- You will find most hotels and restaurants accommodate both smoking and nonsmoking guests. It is not legal to smoke on public transportation or in shops. Cigarettes are a fairtrade item meaning a pack of a particular brand, size, and blend will be the same price everywhere in the country.

Taxes -- Hungary has a value-added tax (VAT) on everything, but the rate depends on the service or product. Hotel VAT is now 18% and VAT on goods in shops is 20%. When you are shopping the VAT is included in the posted price. However, some stores will break it down showing a "netto" and "brutto" price. You want to pay attention to the brutto, as this is what you will pay at the register.

Telephones -- Many convenience stores, kiosks, and Internet cafes sell prepaid calling cards in denominations up to 5,000 Ft; for international visitors these can be the least expensive way to call home. Many public pay phones are not properly serviced, but most require the use of a specific pay phone calling card also available as above.

Time -- Hungary is in the Central European Time zone. This is the same time zone for all of Western Europe, with the exception of the U.K. It is 1 hour ahead of Greenwich Mean Time, except during daylight saving time. Hungary is 6 hours ahead of New York City and 9 hours ahead of San Francisco.

Daylight saving time is in effect from 2am on the last Sunday in March to 2am on the last Sunday in October. Daylight saving time moves the clock 1 hour ahead of standard time.

Tipping -- In hotels, tip bellhops at least 500 Ft per bag (750-1,000 Ft if you have a lot of luggage) and tip the chamber staff 500 Ft per day (more if you've left a disaster area for him or her to clean up). Tip the concierge only if he or she has provided you with some specific service (for example, calling a cab for you or obtaining difficult-to-get theater tickets). Tip the valet-parking attendant 500 Ft every time you get your car.

In restaurants, bars, and nightclubs, tip service staff and bartenders 10-15% of the check, and tip valet-parking attendants 500 Ft per vehicle.

As for other service personnel, tip cab drivers 10% of the fare and tip hairdressers and barbers 10-15%.

Toilets -- In some areas, you will find public toilets on the streets. You will be required to pay the attendant to use the facility. Keep small change handy as it can cost from 50 Ft to 100 Ft. Because they are attended, safety is not a concern, but have extra paper with you -- what they provide is minimal. If you think you can run into a fast-food restaurant, be prepared as they will charge unless you have ordered food. Your receipt is your admission ticket, but only good for one person. Split your order for more receipts. Other facilities are found in hotel lobbies if you hunt for them, bars, restaurants, museums, railway and bus stations. Some full-menu restaurants, cafes, and bars reserve their restrooms for patrons.

Visitor Information -- Tourinform office locations in Budapest and other cities are provided elsewhere, but the main websites are http://tourinform.hu and www.hungary.com. Other helpful sources are www.funzine.com, the online portion of the printed Funzine magazine that comes out every other week, listing current events and fun things to do. For relevant regional news, you can go to the Budapest Times online at www.budapesttimes.hu. For news that is sometimes irreverent, check out Caboodle's site, www.caboodle.hu. For information for gays and lesbians, join the Budapest Yahoo group by sending an email to gaybudapestinfo-subscribe@yahoogroups.com.

Water -- You will see plenty of people drinking bottled water, but water from the faucet is completely safe to drink. It is just a matter of personal preference.

Getting There

By Plane

There is no domestic air service in Hungary, which means there are no intra-Hungary flights.

Budapest is served by two adjacent airports, Ferihegy 1 and Ferihegy 2, both located in the XVII district in southeastern Pest. Ferihegy 1 is the airport that all budget airlines use, while Ferihegy 2 (which has a Terminal A and a Terminal B) serves the flagship carriers and other traditional airlines. The distance between the Ferihegy 2 terminals is about 1 block, so there is no need to be concerned if you arrive at the airport for your flight and are at the wrong terminal, but there is some concern if you arrive at the wrong airport. With Hungary's entry into the Schengen zone, terminal 2A is exclusively used for flights to Schengen countries, so you will pass through security, but not Passport Control. All other flights will depart from 2B and have Passport Control. There are several main information numbers: For airport information, call tel. 1/296-9696; and for general information, call tel. 1/296-7000. For ease of language, use the airport's English version website at www.bud.hu/english for flight information. The airport code for Budapest is BUD.

Arriving passengers at either airport need to pass through Customs and Passport Control, when appropriate, before they emerge into the bustling arrivals halls of the respective airports.

Ferihegy 1 was remodeled and enlarged just a few years ago, due to the then-expanding number of budget airlines; however, a large number of airlines have pulled out due to lack of demand. Ferihegy 2 is larger, but still not overwhelming -- you shouldn't have any fears of getting lost in it like some other major airports. In each airport, you'll find accommodations offices, rental-car agencies, shops, exchange booths, plus a Tourinform desk. Exchange rates are much less favorable in airports than in the city, so rather than change money, take it out of the ATM. Even with bank fees, you'll come out ahead in the end. Often, people become confused and anxious with currency in thousands, so to avoid surprises or unnecessary ATM fees, do yourself a favor and print out a currency cheat sheet before leaving home from www.oanda.com/convert/cheatsheet.

Getting into Town from the Airport -- You have four general choices to get from or back to the airport depending on your budget. Although in the past airport taxis were notorious for scamming tourists, the airport authority took steps to correct this situation. The airport exclusively contracts with Zóna Taxi services (tel. 1/365-5555), making this the official taxi service of both Budapest airports. The fares are fixed rates per cab, not per person and adhere to predestined zones within the city. Fares run from zones 1-4 and cost from 3,500 Ft to 5,400 Ft. These taxis are also metered, so if the metered fare is less than the zone rate, you pay the reduced fare. By law, all taxis must give you a paper receipt for your fare. If you know of another taxi company and prefer them, you will need to call them. The unauthorized taxi stand pick-up area is away from the general taxi area, but there are signs in English.

Airport Shuttle (tel. 1/296-8555; www.bud.hu/english) is a public service owned and operated by the Budapest Airport Authority. There is a clearly visible kiosk for the shuttle in each terminal. If you know you will use this service to return to the airport, a round-trip ticket is less expensive than two one-way tickets. A round-trip fare is 4,990 Ft per person and one way is 2,990 Ft per person. For two traveling together, there is a discount: for one-way, it is 4,490 Ft for two and 8,490 Ft for a round trip. The fares are the same for both airports. Depending on the number of people, you may find the taxi service to be less expensive. When you purchase your tickets for the shuttle, you'll be asked which district you are going to since many districts have streets with the same name. Once a minibus is sufficiently full, the driver will call out your destination, direct you to the vehicle and load your luggage. This can take anywhere from 10 minutes to as much as 1 hour, depending on how busy it is at any given time of day. The shuttle takes you directly to the door of any address in the city. The trip takes from 30 minutes to an hour, depending on traffic and how many stops are made. To arrange your return to the airport from where you are staying, call the number above 24 hours in advance, but not longer than 24 hours in advance and absolutely not less than 12 hours in advance. The shuttle office is open from 6am to 10pm, but be warned that you may have to wait on hold for some time and may possibly get disconnected in the process. The shuttle will pick up passengers virtually anywhere in the Budapest area from their front door. You will be given a 10-minute time frame for when the shuttle will arrive to pick you up, based on your flight departure. You will be asked to wait outside the door during this 10-minute period to facilitate the pick-up process.

There are also two public transportation options with the trip taking about 1 hour total on either. Two buses leave the airport for the metro. From Ferihegy 2, you will take bus no. 200E to the last stop, Kobánya-Kispest. From there, the Blue metro line runs to the Inner City of Pest. The cost is two transit tickets, which is 540 Ft for both; tickets can be bought from the automated vending machine at the bus stop (coins only and not recommended) or from any newsstand in the airport. From Ferihegy 1, take bus no. 93 or 200E to the same metro stop as above.

Trains stop at Ferihegy 1 only and go to Nyugati train station. After using the highway overpass, stand on the tracks and wait for the train. Take note that there is no station at the airport, but just a siding where the train stops. You must buy the 300 Ft ticket for a one-way journey at the airport. Purchasing a ticket on the train could result in a hefty fine. There are more than 30 trains daily. If you arrive at Ferihegy 2, take bus 200E to Ferihegy 1 in order to catch the train. Plans to extend the train tracks to the second airport still have not happened.

By Train

Trains arrive regularly from Vienna, Bratislava, and other European cities either as a destination or as a train passing through for somewhere else. It will depend on where your journey began as to which of the three stations you arrive at. In order to curb fare dodging, some of the tracks are barricaded by inspectors who will want to see your ticket when leaving a train as well as boarding it. Don't toss your tickets until you leave the station.

By Boat

There are a number of cruise ships on the Danube route making Budapest a stopover or final destination. For those not on a cruise ship, there are hydrofoils that transport passengers between Vienna or Bratislava and Budapest as well as smaller towns within Hungary. For information and schedules in English see www.mahartpassnave.hu after clicking on the British flag.

By Car

Once you arrive in the city, you'll want to either park your car or return it to the rental agency. Driving in the city is hazardous to one's health as there are not as many stop signs as needed. There are many one-way streets, and restrictions on making turns onto major roads, so you'll have to find the right place where you can turn around in order to head in the direction you want.

When to Go

I always recommend spring and fall to those who ask what are the best seasons to visit. Hotels are on low-season rates usually until the middle to end of April reverting to them again from about mid-September. Generally, hotels will use their special season rates for Christmas and New Year, but winters generally are cold and gray, casting a dark shadow over a glorious city. Although it does snow here, we have not had any major snowfall for the last 5 years. When it does snow, it generally dissipates within the day. If you choose Christmas time for your holiday, remember to consider that half a day of Christmas Eve, all of Christmas, and the day after are holidays. Many things will be closed for those days; however, some museums open on December 26 if it does not fall on a regularly scheduled closed day. The afternoon of New Year's Eve will have most places shuttered closed with the exception of restaurants, and all of New Year's Day is a legal holiday.

From sometime in April to mid-September, many activities come alive. The outdoor pools are open, and the outdoor squatters' beer pubs start appearing like mushrooms after a rain. Spring is a perfect time to ride the Children's Railroad or the chairlift.

Other activities hibernate during the summer as it can get really warm, especially July and August. Without air conditioning in many venues, like the Opera House, it is too hot to offer regular programming during the summer. There are short-term events held sporadically. Make sure to pack an umbrella. We do get a number of days of rain but for the most part, they are passing showers seldom lasting more than a day, but often only lasting hours.

Budapest and the rest of Hungary has been held hostage by the economic crisis, creating a dramatic drop in tourism. Regardless of when you decide to visit, you are sure to find some bargains. With a little planning you can come to Budapest at a time that will coincide with one or more of the city's cultural events; however, if you miss these, there is always something worthy happening; it is a city of festivals. All inquiries about ticket availability and locations of events can first be checked online where you can also buy tickets for many venues at www.jegymester.hu. For other information, contact Budapest's main tourist information office, Tourinform.