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Landlocked Hungary may not have much access to seafood, but dishes made with freshwater fish play an important role in the culinary repertoire. Horgásztantya has been around long before the recent clutch of new Budapest fish restaurants arrived. Though the place looks like it could use a good makeover (it has a large fisherman-themed wall painting and a boat hanging from the ceiling), it remains a great place to try halászlé ("fisherman's soup"), a Hungarian classic. Different regions prepare this heavily paprika-spiced soup in different styles, and here you can order it in at least eight different versions. You can get it Baja style (with added pasta), Korhely style (with sour cream and lemon), Tisza style (with mixed fish and tomatoes), or made only with catfish or carp. To many, halászlé is an acquired taste. If it's not for you, there's an array of other local fish dishes on the menu, including trout from Szilvásvárad, grilled pike perch, and catfish paprikás, with pasta and curd cheese. Though there are also non-fish dishes, those aren't what this kitchen does best. During the warmer months there's a terrace where you can feel the breeze from the Danube, which is just a block away. Drink your wine here as the regulars do: as a fröccs (wine spritzer). Together with a bowl of halászlé served in a mini-cauldron, it's the perfect introduction to Hungarian fish culture.