Planning a trip to Buenos Aires

Tips for Single Travelers

Traveling as a single person gives you more flexibility and often makes it easier to meet locals. However, it also means more caution must be taken at times.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

Sustainability is still catching on in Buenos Aires; for a long time, the most widespread attempts at responsible tourism in the city were hotels' requests that visitors reuse towels and sheets. Since 2009, however, Buenos Aires has begun developing a network of bicycle paths, including many in tourist areas, particularly in the Ecological Reserve. Biking is a convenient, enjoyable way of seeing the city without drastically increasing your carbon footprint.

The company Travel Native (tel. 11/15-4419-3467; www.travelnative.com) offers tours as well as a Web portal of information on Argentine hotels and companies that use environmentally conscious methods of operation. It's run by French expat Olivier Dufeu, who recommends for instance that travelers to Argentina dedicate more time to their trip and not fly vast distances across the country using jets, using other means of transit or staying in one place. Also visit www.reddeturismoresponsable.org for lists of responsible operators and companies throughout Argentina, or see www.frommers.com/planning for more tips on responsible travel.

Tips for Families

f you're traveling with teenagers, be aware that, with a drinking age of only 18, unsupervised minors who look older than they actually are might have easy access to alcohol.

Your children might find it hard to see other children begging on the streets in large cities throughout the country and helping their cartonero (homeless) parents by looking for discarded paper to sell to recyclers to make a very desperate living. The peso crisis has taken a heavy toll on many Argentine children, creating a young, homeless class of beggars. It might be a good idea to explain to your child the inequities within Argentina, and the rest of Latin America for that matter, if he or she comments on this. In theory, your visit to Argentina, in the long run, will improve the economy and the plight of these homeless children. It might be tempting to give money to these kids, but nutritious, wrapped food or school supplies will do them more good in the long run. The nonprofit Voluntario Global allows tourists to do charity work while on vacation in Buenos Aires, which might be ideal for helping children understand poverty in Argentina in a constructive way.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports

Citizens of the United States, Canada, the United Kingdom, Australia, New Zealand, and South Africa require a passport to enter the country. If you do not yet have a passport, see below for passport services by country of origin.

Australia -- Australian Passport Information Service (tel. 131-232; www.passports.gov.au).

Canada -- Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca).

Ireland -- Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.foreignaffairs.gov.ie).

New Zealand -- Passports Office, Department of Internal Affairs, 47 Boulcott St., Wellington, 6011 (tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100; www.passports.govt.nz).

United Kingdom -- Visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency or contact the Identity and Passport Service (IPS), 89 Eccleston Sq., London, SW1V 1PN (tel. 0300/222-0000; www.ips.gov.uk).

United States -- To find your regional passport office, check the U.S. State Department website (travel.state.gov/passport) or call the National Passport Information Center (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information.

Visas

No visa is required for citizens of United States, Canada, the United Kingdom, Australia, New Zealand, Ireland, and South Africa for tourist stays in Argentina of up to 90 days. A side trip to Brazil or by boat to neighboring Uruguay will effectively restart the 90-day tourist period. British citizens should be aware that in spite of periodic official rhetoric regarding the Falkland Islands (Islas Malvinas), there is no actual tension between Argentina and the U.K. In addition, all travelers, British or not, should be aware that visiting the Falklands does not jeopardize re-entry into Argentina.

Since 2009, Argentina has charged a reciprocity fee of citizens of the United States, Canada, and Australia landing at Ezeiza. The fee covers an entry voucher (not technically a visa) that's valid for 10 years. At press time, the fee is $140 for Americans, $100 for Australians, and $70 for Canadians, which is what Argentines pay for visas to each of these countries, respectively. The fee can be paid with cash, Visa, MasterCard, or American Express upon arrival. Though this may change, at the moment the fee is not charged if you enter Argentina by land or sea.

For more information concerning long-term, work, or other types of visas, contact the appropriate embassy or consulate in your home country .

Australia -- Contact the Embassy of the Argentine Republic, John McEwen House, Level 2, 7 National Circuit, Barton, ACT 2600 (tel. 02/6273-9111; fax 02/6273-0500; info@argentina.org.au; www.argentina.org.au).

Canada -- Contact the Embassy of the Argentine Republic, 81 Metcalfe St., Ste. 700, Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5B4 (tel. 613/236-2351; fax 613/235-2659; www.argentina-canada.net).

Ireland -- Contact the Embassy of the Argentine Republic, 15 Ailesbury Drive, Dublin 4 (tel. 353/1-269-1546; fax 353/1-260-0404; feirla@mrecic.gov.ar; www.mrecic.gov.ar).

New Zealand -- Contact the Embassy of the Argentine Republic, Prime Finance Tower, Level 14, 142 Lambton Quay, PO Box 5430, Wellington (tel. 04/472-8330; fax 04/472-8331; enzel@arg.org.nz; www.arg.org.nz).

United Kingdom -- Contact the Embassy of the Argentine Republic, 65 Brooke St., London W1Y 4AH (tel. 020/7318-1300; fax 020/7318-1301; seruni@mrecic.gov.ar; www.argentine-embassy-uk.org).

United States -- Contact the Consular Section of the Argentine Embassy, 1811 Q St. NW, Washington, DC 20009 (tel. 202/238-6401 or 202/238-6460; fax 202/238-6471). Consulates are also located in Los Angeles, California (tel. 323/954-9155/6); Miami, Florida (tel. 305/373-1889); Atlanta, Georgia (tel. 404/880-0805); Chicago, Illinois (tel. 312/819-2610); New York City (tel. 212/603-0400); and Houston, Texas (tel. 713/871-8935). For more information, visit www.embassyofargentina.us, with links to the various consulates in the U.S.

Customs

Travelers entering Argentina can bring personal effects -- including clothes, jewelry, and professional equipment such as cameras and computers -- without paying duty. In addition, they can bring in 2 liters of alcohol, 400 cigarettes, and 50 cigars duty-free. Luggage is usually x-rayed upon entering Buenos Aires.

Medical Requirements

Unless you're arriving from an area known to be suffering from an epidemic (particularly cholera or yellow fever), vaccinations are not required for entry into Argentina.

Health & Safety

Argentina requires no vaccinations to enter the country, except for passengers coming from countries where cholera and yellow fever are endemic.

The medical facilities and personnel in Buenos Aires and other urban areas in Argentina are very professional. Argentina has a system of socialized medicine, in which basic services are free. Private clinics are inexpensive by Western standards.

Most drugs requiring a prescription in North America or western Europe do not require one in Argentina. Thus, if you lose or run out of a medication, you may not need to see a doctor and get a new prescription. The same is true if you become ill and know what medicine you need. Many pharmacies in the Microcentro have English-speaking staff. (Be aware, however, that some medicine can be expensive in Argentina.) Pack prescription medications in your carry-on luggage, and carry them in their original containers, with pharmacy labels -- otherwise they might not make it through airport security. Also bring copies of your prescriptions in case you lose your pills or run out. Know the generic or chemical name of prescription medicines, in case a local pharmacist is unfamiliar with the brand name. Don't forget an extra pair of contact lenses or prescription glasses.

Buenos Aires's streets and sidewalks can be disgustingly unsanitary. While there is a pooper-scooper law on the books, dog owners seem to take delight in letting their pets relieve themselves in the middle of the sidewalk. Watch where you step, and wash your hands thoroughly after handling your shoes, even if you don't think you stepped in anything. Roaches also love the city's streets. If you don't want unwelcome visitors in shopping bags or pocketbooks, don't leave them sitting on the ground while you dine outdoors. (This is a good theft-prevention measure as well.)

Dietary Red Flags -- Water and ice are considered safe in Buenos Aires, though many people prefer bottled water. Travelers should be careful with Argentine steak, however. Because it is generally served very rare, if not almost raw inside, people with delicate digestive systems or immune deficiency should request it well-done (bien cocido). Cross-contamination of uncooked meat with salads and other items is unfortunately common in restaurants. You should also avoid street food and drinks served out of canisters at city festivals. Vegetarians should be aware that with so much leftover cow fat as a byproduct of the cattle industry, lard is commonly used as a cooking ingredient and finds its way into many baked goods. Read labels and ask. Kosher and halal foods are also easily found in Buenos Aires.

Bugs, Bites & Other Wildlife Concerns -- Malaria is not an issue in Buenos Aires, but in summer, and especially in parks and along the Río de la Plata, mosquitoes are everywhere. Wear repellent to avoid bites. Visitors on hiking trips to the Tigre islands should be aware of saw grass and wear light full-length sleeves and pants to avoid cuts.

Respiratory Illnesses & Allergies -- Some people with allergies can be affected by the pollution in Buenos Aires's crowded Microcentro, where streets are packed with cars and buses. The beautiful spring blossoms also bring with them pollen, and even people not usually affected by plants might be thrown off by plants different from those in their home countries. It's a good idea to pack a decongestant.

Sun/Elements/Extreme Weather Exposure -- The summer sun is hot and strong in Buenos Aires. It's best to wear sunblock and carry it with you (it's available in stores and pharmacies throughout the city, so you can purchase it after you arrive).

Tropical Illnesses -- For advice about shots for various illnesses if you are traveling to other parts of South America, contact Vacunar, a chain of clinics specializing in vaccinations and preventative illness, with locations all over Buenos Aires (www.vacunar.com.ar). Keep in mind that many shots require a period of time before they become effective.

Safety

The fact that former U.S. president George W. Bush's daughters were robbed despite being surrounded by Secret Service and local cops says a lot about Buenos Aires. Crime -- especially pickpocketing, robbery, and car theft -- has increased sharply in recent years with the volatility of the economy and an influx of naive tourists. Visitors need to be aware at all times. Real violence is unlikely; pickpocketing is likely to be your top problem, so be careful in large crowds, on subways, on buses, and while watching street performers. Never leave a bag or purse unattended or on the ground. (Though official accounts differ and/or deny the Bush daughters were robbed at all, the method by which they were likely hoodwinked was the "soccer" method: A purse on the ground under a chair is kicked to another thief who then takes it away.)

While it's generally safe to walk around Recoleta, Palermo, and the Microcentro day and night, some tourist areas deemed safe by day, such as La Boca, should be avoided at night. While you need not avoid San Telmo by night -- many of the best bars and milongas are in this area -- you should watch out for theft here as well, especially in outdoor restaurants. I would also warn tourists against walking around in Monserrat at night, though with increasing gentrification and tourist spillover from San Telmo, the area has become safer. Visitors should walk in pairs or groups when possible but avoid conspicuous tourist behavior, including speaking loudly in English. Do not flaunt expensive possessions, particularly jewelry. Call for a radio-taxi or remis when leaving a place of business. The number-one rule to keep in mind is that thieves take advantage of naiveté and opportunity.

Because motor vehicle crashes are a leading cause of injury among travelers, walk and drive defensively. Do not expect buses and cars to stop when you cross the street. Always use a seat belt, which is the law in Buenos Aires, even in taxis.

Tips for Black Travelers

At the time of Emancipation in 1853, Buenos Aires was a near-majority black city. Argentina's most famous dance, the tango, has its roots in Africa; and Lunfardo (also known as Lumfardo), the rough, slum-based slang still used by tango aficionados, includes many African words. However, specific historical details rarely discussed today in Argentina, such as the placement of black soldiers in the frontlines ahead of white soldiers during the Paraguayan War of the 1860s and the outbreak of yellow fever in the 1870s that disproportionately impacted poor areas where Afro-Argentines lived, mean there is very little of a black presence in the center of the city now. This contrasts strongly with neighboring Brazil and even Uruguay.

With the 2010 Bicentennial and an emphasis on rediscovering the country's various ethnic roots, a black cultural revival is beginning. The theater company Proyecto 34S runs African-themed productions, and Afro-Kitchen, a puerta cerrada (private restaurant), specializes in Afro-Argentine cuisine. The magazine Revista Quilombo (www.revistaquilombo.com.ar), is an additional source for Afro-Argentine culture. The Argentine term quilombo, referring to a chaotic, confusing situation, is a Lunfardo word, originally an African word referring to a place where escaped slaves sought shelter. (In immigrant days the word also meant "bordello.") The island resort Tigre, in the Buenos Aires suburbs, was one such place.

Today, immigration from Africa itself and increased immigration from neighboring Brazil are increasing the black population of Buenos Aires. Still, blacks are a rather rare sight in Buenos Aires and black tourists may be seen as a curiosity. Since the election of President Obama in the United States, there has been a healthy curiosity among Argentines about the lives and views of African Americans, so don't be surprised if locals approach you with questions.

If you feel you have been discriminated against as a person of African descent, contact INADI (Instituto Nacional contra la Discriminación, la Xenofobia y el Racismo; tel. 0800-999-2345; www.inadi.gob.ar). You may also report it to Carlos Alvarez of the group Africa y su Diaspora (tel. 11/15-6202-9737; asociacionafricaysudiaspora@yahoo.com.ar; www.africaysudiaspora.wordpress.com).

Escorted & Package Tours

Recommended U.S.-Based Operators

The following U.S.-based tour companies offer solid, well-organized tours in various price categories based on years of experience. All can arrange tours of Buenos Aires, the surroundings, and other parts of Argentina and South America.

Borello Travel & Tours, 7 Park Ave., Ste. 21, New York, NY 10016 (tel. 800/405-3072 or 212/686-4911; www.borellotravel.com; info@borellotravel.com), is a New York-based travel firm specializing in upscale travel. The owner, Sandra Borello, has run the company for nearly 20 years and is a native of Buenos Aires. They also have an office in Buenos Aires, at Perú (9 de Julio) 359 (tel. 11/5031-1988). Travel Dynamics International, 132 E. 70th St., New York, NY 10021 (tel. 800/257-5767 or 212/517-0076; www.traveldynamicsinternational.com), is a luxury cruise operator that specializes in educational enrichment programs aboard small cruise ships. TDI voyages include expert guided land tours and onboard lectures by distinguished scholars and guests. Limitless Argentina, 135 Willow St., #907, Brooklyn, NY 11201 (tel. 202/536-5812; www.limitlessargentina.com), is a boutique travel company dedicated to designing authentic, personalized journeys for the discerning traveler. Itineraries include fine arts, regional culture and history, food and wine, the great outdoors, and shopping. The company earned the distinction of top travel specialist for Argentina 2006 from Condé Nast's Traveler magazine.

Recommended Buenos Aires-Based Operators

The following companies are all excellent and have English-speaking staff members. All can also arrange trips to other parts of Argentina and the rest of South America.

Say Hueque Tourism, Thames 2062, Palermo - Buenos Aires (tel. +54 11/5258-8740; www.sayhueque.com) organizes various themed city tours, adventure tours to the Tigre Delta, and longer trips to Patagonia and Iguazú that focus on remote, often overlooked destinations. Euro Tur, Viamonte 486, 1053 Buenos Aires (tel. 11/4312-6077; www.eurotur.com), one of the largest and oldest travel companies in Argentina, specializes in inbound travel but can also accommodate travelers directly in Buenos Aires, arranging city tours as well as trips throughout South America. Les Amis, Maipú 1270, 1005 Buenos Aires (tel. 11/4314-0500; www.lesamis.com.ar), is another large Argentine tour company with offices throughout Buenos Aires and Argentina. South America Travel Advisor (tel. 11/5275-5280 or 11/15-3232-8600 [cell] in Buenos Aires and 646/233-1152 in the U.S. and Canada; www.southamericanadvisor.com; info@southamericanadvisor.com) is a travel advisor for Argentina, Brazil, Uruguay, Chile, and Peru. For a flat fee, travelers can contact them with a tentative plan and budget, and they will suggest customized itineraries. They also run cuisine and restaurant tours of Buenos Aires.

Private Tour Guides

You can hire guides through your hotel, any travel agency, or AGUITBA (Asociación de Guías de Turismo de Buenos Aires), Carlos Pellegrini (9 de Julio) 833 (tel. 11/4322-2557; aguitba@sion.com), a professional society of tour guides. Its offices are open Monday to Friday from 1 to 6pm. I also recommend private guides Marta Pasquali (tel. 11/15-4421-2486; marpas@uolsinectis.com.ar), Monica Varela (tel. 11/15-4407-0268; monyliv@hotmail.com or varmonica@gmail.com), Rubén Forace (tel. 11/15-4410-8234 [cell] or 11/4866-6193; rudarifo@yahoo.com.ar), and Francisco Martoccia (tel. 011/4803-0950; franmarto@hotmail.com).

Staying Connected

Telephones

Public phones take either phone cards (sold at kiosks on the street) or coins (less common). Local calls initially cost 20 centavos and charge more the longer you talk.

Telecentro or locutorio offices -- found everywhere in Buenos Aires -- offer private phone booths where calls to Europe and North America cost about a peso a minute. Most hotels offer fax services, as do all telecentro offices. Dial tel. 110 for directory assistance (most operators speak English) and tel. 000 to reach an international operator. Direct dialing to North America and Europe is available from most phones. International, as well as domestic, calls are expensive from hotels (rates fall btw. 10pm and 8am). Holders of AT&T credit cards can reach the money-saving USA Direct from Argentina by calling tel. 0800/555-4288 toll-free from the north of Argentina or 0800/222-1288 from the south. Similar services are offered by MCI (tel. 0800/555-1002) and Sprint (tel. 0800/555-1003 from the north of Argentina, or 0800/222-1003 from the south).

Mobile Phones

With the right service plan in your home country, GSM smartphones will work in Argentina -- in theory. Service is not entirely dependable, and calls are often routed to voice mail. Text messages are more reliable. Most service plans from overseas are very expensive. It makes more sense to use an unlocked phone that accepts a SIM card, also known as a "chip," and add minutes to this. In general, rates depend on the company, but will run about US50¢ per minute for local calls, and up to US$2 for international calls. The pedestrianized shopping streets Calle Florida and Calle Lavalle are home to numerous stores selling such phones and SIM cards. The phones can be recharged at virtually any newspaper kiosk through an electronic vending system. The cellphone company Movistar has a booth in Galerías Pacífico, Calle Florida 750 at Avenida Córdoba (tel. 11/5555-5287), as well as at Lavalle 567 at Florida (tel. 11/4328-5624). Altel, Av. Córdoba 417, 1st floor (at Reconquista; tel. 11/4311-5000; www.altelphonerental.com), is a cellphone-rental company aimed at tourists. It offers free rental and delivery, but phone calls cost about $1 to $2 a minute, even locally. With a strong Internet signal, you can also use Skype to call home.

Internet & Wi-Fi

Argentina is one of Latin America's most wired countries. You'll see the Wi-Fi sticker on cafe doors and restaurant doors all over Buenos Aires, especially in neighborhoods popular among tourists. Most hotels have Wi-Fi, regardless of the price category. In addition, more and more hotels, resorts, airports, cafes, and retailers are becoming "hotspots" that offer free high-speed Wi-Fi access or charge a small fee for usage. To find public Wi-Fi hotspots in Buenos Aires, go to www.jiwire.com; its Hotspot Finder holds the world's largest directory of public wireless hotspots. To find cybercafes in Buenos Aires, check www.cybercaptive.com and www.cybercafe.com. Most major airports have Internet kiosks that provide basic Web access for a per-minute fee that's usually higher than cybercafe prices. In addition, locutorios, or phone centers, usually have Internet stations, available for about $2 an hour. These are all over Buenos Aires and especially concentrated downtown. If you plan to be in Buenos Aires long-term for work purposes, you might want to check out Area Tres Workplace, Malabia 1720 between El Salvador and Costa Rica (tel. 11/5353-0333; www.areatresworkplace.com), run by Martin Frankel, which rents short-term office space, complete with Internet connections.

Getting Around

The Buenos Aires metro -- called the subte -- is the fastest, cheapest way to get around. Buses are also convenient, though less commonly used by tourists. Get maps of metro and bus lines from tourist offices and most hotels. (Ask for the QuickGuide Buenos Aires if it's available.) All metro stations are supposed to have maps on hand, but they are rarely in good supply.

By Metro (Subway)

The subte is the fastest and cheapest way to travel in Buenos Aires. Six lines connect commercial, tourist, and residential areas in the city Monday through Saturday from 5am to 11pm, and on Sunday and holidays from 8am to 11pm. These are the official hours, but because of budget cuts, many lines stop running by 10pm. However, they don't always close the stations after the trains have stopped, and you could end up waiting for trains that will never come, so ask someone if a train is running in the direction you need during later hours. Service has also been reduced through a lengthening of the wait between trains, even during busy daytime hours, making for extremely crowded trains. A new line, the H or Yellow Line, has been partially built along the Jujuy-Pueyrredón corridor, and existing lines have also been expanded. See the inside front cover of this guide for a map of the system, and be aware that new maps given out or posted at stations might not correctly reflect subway extensions. Visit www.subte.com.ar for maps and other information. The interactive site also gives estimated times and transfer information between stations.

The flat fare is 1.10 pesos. Every station has a staffed ticket window. Some stations have ticket vending machines, but they're unreliable. You can also buy a subte pass for 11 pesos, valid for 10 trips. The passes are cheap and demagnetize easily, so it's a good idea to buy an extra to have on hand. Trains get crowded during rush hour and are not air-conditioned, so they can be hot in summer. Free subway maps are available, but stations run out quickly. Always be cautious of pickpockets, including tiny pocket-height children who can easily be overlooked. The trains are also full of people trying to sell you odd trinkets.

Try to ride the A line at least once; it's a tourist attraction in itself. The oldest line, it runs along Avenida de Mayo and uses some of the system's original rickety wooden cars. Lima station, in particular, retains most of the original ornamentation and copies of advertisements from the turn of the 20th century.

Neither Recoleta nor Puerto Madero has subte access. Most of Puerto Madero, however, is accessible via the L. N. Alem subte stop on the B line. It's a 5- to 20-minute walk, depending on which dock you're going to. Puerto Madero also has a light rail train running near it that costs 1 peso, but it's slower than walking and thus not particularly useful. If you're going to Recoleta, the D line runs through the bordering neighborhood of Barrio Norte, so you can avoid spending money on a taxi by using this line and then walking 15 minutes to Recoleta.

Be aware that wildcat strikes are common on the system, though workers rarely stop trains between stations. Sometimes these strikes are limited to payment windows, not affecting trains, allowing you to ride for free.

By Taxi

The streets of Buenos Aires are swarming with taxis. Fares are generally low, with an initial meter reading of 5.80 pesos, increasing 58 centavos every 200m (656 ft.) or each minute. (A 20% higher rate goes into effect at night.) Most of the taxi rides the average tourist will be taking will cost $3 to $10. Remises and radio-taxis are much more reliable than street taxis. Radio-taxis, when hailed on the street, are recognizable by plastic light boxes on their rooftops, though not all will have these. If a cab is available, the word libre will flash in red on the windshield. Ordinary taxis, more likely to be run by members of Buenos Aires's infamous taxi mafia, do not have these special light boxes. A rarely enforced law means taxi drivers can stop only if their passenger side is facing the curb. If available cabs are ignoring you, cross to the other side of the street and hail again.

I personally have had few problems in taxis, but it's always best to err on the side of caution. If you speak English loudly with fellow passengers, identifying yourself as a tourist, expect your ride to take longer than it should, with strange diversions ensuring a higher fare than is normal. You can prevent this situation by being discreet about the fact that you're from out of town, having a general idea where you are going, and keeping in mind the one-way street system. Drivers often use traffic problems as their excuse for the longer route. Though most taxi drivers are honest, a substantial number of tourists have been ripped off by dishonest drivers. One common scam among drivers is to say the passenger paid with a smaller-denomination bill than they actually did. One way around this is to know in Spanish the value of your bill, announcing it to the driver when requesting change. (Or, better yet, have exact change on hand.) Another scam is to say your bills are counterfeit and then keep them regardless. Tips are not necessary, but many locals round up the fare to the nearest peso.

To request a taxi by phone, call Taxi Premium (tel. 11/4374-6666 or 11/5238-0000; www.taxipremium.com), a service used by many top hotels.

Traveling by Taxi -- If you need a taxi, I strongly recommend that you call in advance for a remis or radio-taxi. Better yet, ask an employee of your hotel, restaurant, or other venue to call on your behalf, as a representative of that establishment, which will ensure greater accountability from your driver. If you must hail taxis on the street, use only those with plastic light boxes on their roofs, indicating that they are radio-taxis. Since the economic crisis began, robberies by street taxi drivers have increased sharply. Remises are only slightly pricier than street cabs, but far safer. Most hotels have contracts with remis companies, and they're accustomed to calling for patrons.

By Bus

Buenos Aires has about 140 bus lines that run 24 hours a day. The fare is 1.10 pesos and up, depending on the distance you're traveling. You'll pay your fare inside the bus at an electronic ticket machine that accepts only coins and provides change. Many bus drivers will tell you the fare for your destination and let you know when to get off, but most speak only Spanish. Locals are just as helpful and will sometimes make an almost comical effort to ensure you don't get lost.

The Guía T is a comprehensive if confusing guide to the city bus grid and bus lines that divides the city into quadrants. Buy it at bookstores, newspaper kiosks, on the subte, or on the sidewalk from peddlers. (Unfortunately, the city has yet to offer a bus route map that includes city streets and landmarks, which would be helpful to tourists and locals alike.) Note: The bus system is notorious for pickpockets, so be very cautious when riding it.

By Foot

You'll probably find yourself walking more than you planned in this pedestrian-friendly city. Most of the center is small enough to navigate on foot, and you can connect to adjacent neighborhoods by taxi or the subte. Based on the Spanish colonial plan, the city is a wobbly grid expanding from the Plaza de Mayo, so you are not likely to get too lost. Plazas and parks all over the city offer wonderful places to rest, people-watch, and meet locals. Sidewalks are in terrible condition and often covered in dog droppings, however, so watch your step while taking in the local beauty. Be aware that most tourist maps of Buenos Aires are not typically oriented with north at the top. To keep a sense of direction, remember that Avenida de Mayo runs east-west, with Casa Rosada and Plaza de Mayo at the eastern terminus and Congreso at the western terminus, and 9 de Julio runs north-south from San Telmo (at the southern end) to Retiro (at the northern end).

Navigating Buenos Aires's Grandest Boulevard: Avenida 9 de Julio -- Avenida 9 de Julio might be the world's widest boulevard, but finding buildings by their addresses on it isn't so easy. Locals might tell you an office or store is on Avenida 9 de Julio, but then, when you look at the address they've given you, the street will be called something else. That's because instead of being numbered along 9 de Julio itself, buildings take their addresses from their positions on the streets running parallel to 9 de Julio, all of which became part of the boulevard when it was widened. These are: Cerrito, on the northwest side of 9 de Julio; Carlos Pellegrini, on the northeast side; Lima, on the southwest side; and Bernardo de Irigoyen, on the southeast side of the boulevard. (Also note that, in the case of Bernardo de Irigoyen, it's the perpendicular street Rivadavia and not the typical Av. de Mayo that serves as the break for name changes in streets running north to south in the city, another source of street position confusion for tourists). Whether the Avenida is referred to by its full name, formalized as Nueve de Julio, or shortened to 9 de Julio, it's the same thing.

By Bicycle

It's become easier than ever to get around Buenos Aires by bike. The city has an extensive system of protected bicycle routes that traverses many neighborhoods. Look for the map Red de Ciclovías Protegidas at tourism kiosks, or visit www.mejorenbici.gob.ar. The Ecological Reserve outside of Puerto Madero is also an ideal destination for bicycle enthusiasts. More and more hotels are offering free bicycles or rental bicycles for their guests.

On the fourth Sunday of every month, at 4pm, there is a Critical Mass (Masa Crítica) meeting of bicyclists at the Obelisco. Visit www.masacriticabsas.com.ar for more information. The website www.amigosdelpedal.com.ar also has more information on group biking excursions.

By Car

Buenos Aires is not a place where you need a car. We don't advise that you drive yourself unless you're heading out of the city. If you must rent a car, contact one of the international rental companies at either airport or one of those listed below. Most hotels can also arrange car rentals. Typically, rental cars are manual, and automatic cars are expensive and difficult to reserve, running at about $100 per day. Gasoline is about $2 per liter in Buenos Aires. Most driver's licenses from English-speaking countries are accepted at rental agencies. Visit the Automóvil Club Argentino, Av. del Libertador 1850 at Tagle (tel. 11/4808-4040, 11/4808-6200, or toll-free 0800/888-9888; www.aca.org.ar) for maps and more information about driving in Argentina. Note: Most local motorists disregard traffic rules except for one -- no turn on red.

Rental cars are available from Hertz, Paraguay 1138 (tel. 800/654-3131 in the U.S., or 11/4816-8001); Avis, Cerrito (9 de Julio) 1527 (tel. 800/230-4898 in the U.S., or 11/4326-5542); Dollar, Marcelo T. de Alvear 449 (tel. 800/800-6000 in the U.S., or 11/4315-8800); and Thrifty, Carlos Pellegrini (9 de Julio) 1576 (tel. 800/847-4389 in the U.S., or 11/4326-0418).

By Train

Commuter trains, which run with great frequency and are very cheap, are not ideal for most tourists visiting Buenos Aires. However, the system can be useful for side trips from Buenos Aires, especially to the river island resort town of Tigre; La Plata, the capital of Buenos Aires province; and the beach resort of Mar del Plata.

The Tigre Delta is best reached by train from Buenos Aires and then a boat or launch from the train station if you're continuing on to the islands. Trains from Buenos Aires leave for Estación Tigre from Estación Retiro, Avenida Naciones Unidas and Libertador across from Plaza San Martín, every 10 to 20 minutes along the Mitre Line. Tickets cost about $1 round-trip. Call tel. 11/4317-4445 or 0800-3333-822 for schedules and information, or visit www.tbanet.com.ar. This same train line stops in Belgrano, near Buenos Aires's Chinatown district, and in the wealthy northern suburban towns of Vicente Lopez, San Isidro, and Olivos, where the Presidential Residence is.

A train also runs from the Constitución station, at the intersection of Avenida Brasil and Lima in Plaza Constitución, to Estación La Plata, at the intersection of avenidas 1 and 44 in La Plata. Ticket prices are about $3. Trains run about every 15 to 30 minutes, depending on the day, and the trip takes about an hour and 20 minutes. In Buenos Aires, call tel. 11/4304-0028 for train tickets; in La Plata, call tel. 221/423-2575; and call tel. 0800-3333-822 toll-free nationwide, or visit www.tbanet.com.ar.

Trains from Constitución to the beach resort of Mar del Plata run 3 times a day. In Mar del Plata, purchase tickets at the train station, located at avenidas Luro and Italia (tel. 223/475-6076 in Mar del Plata, 11/4304-0028 in Buenos Aires, or 0800-3333-822 toll-free nationwide; www.tbanet.com.ar.). The train takes about 4 to 5 hours.

A word of caution about trains from Constitución: While the station and surroundings are colorful, they can also be dangerous. The trains connecting to La Plata and Mar del Plata also pass through some of the poorest parts of greater Buenos Aires, and are also often used by rioters coming to the city for demonstrations. Pickpocketing and theft are very common. I do not actually recommend traveling by train to La Plata or Mar del Plata; it's better to use the buses. Traveling by train to Tigre is, however, another story, and while pickpocketing can occur and you should be as cautious in Estación Retiro as you would in any North American or European train station, this train system is nowhere near as problematic as the system connecting to the southern suburbs.

Money

The currency conversions provided were correct at press time. Rates fluctuate, however, so before you depart, consult a currency exchange website such as www.xe.com for up-to-the-minute rates.

The peso is the main unit of currency in Argentina. It is indicated with the symbol "$" and is divided into 100 centavos. (Prices quoted in U.S. dollars are often accompanied by the symbol "US$" or "$US.") Centavo coins come in denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 25, and 50. There are also 1- and 2-peso coins; the latter are generally intended as commemorative collector coins but can also be used as currency. Paper money comes in 2-, 5-, 10-, 20-, 50-, and 100-peso bills. The alleged Argentine coin shortages that made media headlines around the world were actually a false, politically motivated rumor. It's true that shopkeepers are hesitant to give change unless you buy something, as they are in cities across the world. Do not accept torn or taped bills with a value over 10 pesos; as a foreigner, you are more likely to have these bills passed off on you by shopkeepers, and they may be difficult to use later.

It's a good idea to exchange at least some money -- just enough to cover airport incidentals and transportation to your hotel -- at your local American Express, Thomas Cook, or bank before you leave home (though don't expect the exchange rate to be ideal), so you can avoid lines at airport ATMs. If there's no bank with currency-exchange services close by, American Express (tel. 800/807-6233; www.americanexpress.com) will ship traveler's checks and foreign currency, though, with a $15 order fee and additional shipping costs. At Ezeiza, there's an ATM at the Banco de la Nación just outside of the arrival terminal.

U.S. dollars are no longer as widely accepted in Buenos Aires as they were before and immediately after the December 2001 peso crisis. However, you can still use them to pay in some business-class hotels, and at restaurants and businesses catering to tourists. For the vast majority of your purchases, however, you will need pesos. You can exchange money at the airport, in hotels, in casas de cambio (money-exchange houses), and in some banks. The huge American Express building is next to Plaza San Martín, at Arenales 707 (tel. 11/4310-3000). In addition to card-member services, the bank offers currency exchange (dollars only), money orders, check cashing, and refunds. You can also withdraw pesos at ATMs, which are plentiful in Buenos Aires, but use only those in secure, well-lit locations. Even if your bank allows you to make larger daily withdrawals, Argentine ATMs generally only give out pesos in the value range US$100 to $250 maximum at a time or on a daily basis, so plan accordingly. It will be hard to break large bills usually dispensed by ATMs; withdraw money in uneven amounts so that a portion comes in small bills. You can withdraw cash advances from your credit cards at banks or ATMs, but high fees make this a pricey way to get cash. Keep in mind that you'll pay interest from the moment of your withdrawal, even if you pay your monthly bills on time. You can have money wired to Western Union, Carlos Pellegrini (9 de Julio) 1365 at Arroyo (tel. 0800/800-3030 or 11/4323-4200). Be aware that in 2011, a law was passed in Buenos Aires banning the use or possession of a cellphone while banking, which in theory prevents bank robbers from communicating with each other. You will be asked to leave your cellphone in a locker or with a guard when in a bank.

It is sometimes difficult to exchange traveler's checks outside of Buenos Aires, so plan ahead and bring a sufficient amount of pesos on day trips.

Visa, American Express, and MasterCard are accepted at most establishments in Buenos Aires. Also, note that many banks now assess a 1% to 3% "transaction fee" on all charges you incur abroad (whether you're using the local currency or your native currency). Many places in Buenos Aires will also charge a fee when you use a credit card, often ranging from 3% to 5%, in addition to anything your bank will charge.

For help with currency conversions, tip calculations, and more, download Frommer's convenient Travel Tools app for your mobile device. Go to http://www.frommers.com/go/mobile and click on the Travel Tools icon.

Tips for Jewish Travelers

Buenos Aires is one of the world's greatest Jewish centers, with an estimated Jewish population of more than 250,000. The historical foci of the community are the neighborhoods of Once and Abasto. They developed in the beginning of the 20th century after immigration of both Ashkenazi Jews fleeing pogroms in Eastern Europe and Sephardic Jews who emigrated after the breakup of the Ottoman Empire at the end of World War I. After World War II, Argentina welcomed Eastern European Jewish refugees (while also allowing the entry of former Nazis). While the Jewish community has dispersed somewhat to the suburbs, replaced here by other immigrant groups, Abasto and Once are still home to kosher restaurants, Jewish businesses, and synagogues. The Abasto Shopping Center food court also has the only kosher McDonald's in the world outside of Israel.

In 1992, there was a bomb attack on Buenos Aires's Israeli Embassy, killing 29 people, and in 1994, an attack on the Jewish community group Asociación Mutual Israelita Argentina (AMIA) killed 85 people. However, in spite of these attacks, most Argentine Jews feel little discrimination. Argentines of all faiths responded to the attacks with massive candlelight vigils. Visit AMIA's website at www.amia.org.ar for more information as well as the Museo Judio.

Getting There

By Plane

Argentina's main international airport is Ezeiza Ministro Pistarini (EZE; tel. 11/5480-6111 or 11/5480-2500; www.aa2000.com.ar), located 42km (26 miles) to the west of Buenos Aires. Allow at least 45 minutes to an hour for travel between the airport and the city, and more during rush hour.

Argentina's national airline is Aerolíneas Argentinas (tel. 800/333-0276 in the U.S. and Canada, 0810/222-8652 in Buenos Aires, or 2-9234-9000 in Australia; www.aerolineas.com.ar). The airline uses Miami as its U.S. hub. While it has fewer international connections to Buenos Aires than other major airlines, Aerolíneas Argentinas provides an interesting introduction to Argentina and its culture.

Other operators include American Airlines (tel. 800/433-7300 in the U.S. or 11/4318-1111 in Buenos Aires; www.aa.com), with the most flights to Buenos Aires of any U.S. carrier; Delta (tel. 800/221-1212 in the U.S. and Canada or 0800-666-0133 in Argentina; www.delta.com), which has flights to Buenos Aires via Atlanta; United Airlines (tel. 800/538-2929 in the U.S. or 0810/777-8648 in Buenos Aires; www.ual.com); Air Canada (tel. 888/247-2262 in Canada or 11/4327-3640 in Buenos Aires; www.aircanada.ca); British Airways (tel. 0844/493-0787 in the U.K. or 0800-222-0075 or 11/4320-6600 in Buenos Aires; www.britishairways.com); and Iberia (tel. 0870/609-0500 in the U.K. or 11/4131-1000 in Buenos Aires; www.iberia.com). Additionally, LAN Airlines, formerly known as LanChile (tel. 866/435-9526 in the U.S. and Canada or 11/4378-2222 in Buenos Aires; www.lan.com), provides connections from New York and Los Angeles to Buenos Aires via Santiago, and direct flights to Buenos Aires from Miami, as well as internal flights within Argentina. TAM (tel. 1-888-235-9826 in the U.S. and Canada or 0810-333-3333 in Argentina; www.tam.com.br), a Brazilian airline, also has connections to Buenos Aires through Sao Paulo and Rio. TAM and LAN are currently in a merger process. Qantas Airlines of Australia (tel. 13-13-13 in Australia or 11/4114-5800 in Buenos Aires; www.qantas.com.au) has flights to Buenos Aires from Sydney and Auckland, New Zealand.

Most domestic flights and some international flights, including those from Uruguay, arrive at Jorge Newbery Airport, also called Aeroparque (AEP, tel. 11/4514-1515; www.aa2000.com.ar), located about 15 minutes north along the river from downtown.

By American standards, domestic flights within Argentina are expensive. Technically, citizens and tourists pay different airfares, but sometimes tourists can get the Argentine rate. Aerolíneas Argentinas (tel. 800/333-0276 in the U.S. and Canada, 0810/222-86527 in Buenos Aires, or 1800/22-22-15 in Australia; www.aerolineas.com.ar) connects most cities and tourist destinations in Argentina, including Córdoba, Jujuy, Iguazú, Salta, and the beach resorts. (Aerolíneas Argentinas also has a subsidiary called Austral.) LAN (tel. 866/435-9526 in the U.S. and Canada or 11/4378-2222 in Buenos Aires; www.lan.com) has internal flights throughout Argentina connecting from Buenos Aires, and TAM (tel. 888/235-9826 in the U.S. and Canada or 11/3272-6706 or 0810-333-3333 in Argentina; www.tam.com.br) flies from Buenos Aires to the Brazilian side of Iguazú.

If you plan to travel extensively in Argentina from Buenos Aires, consider buying the Visit Argentina Pass, issued by Aerolíneas Argentinas. You must purchase the pass in your home country -- it cannot be purchased once you are in Argentina. This pass offers discounts on domestic travel in conjunction with your international Aerolíneas Argentinas ticket. Passes are purchasable as one-way coupons for flights within Argentina starting at about $120 each, with a minimum of three segments. There are many restrictions on the tickets. Aerolíneas Argentinas also has a Visit South America package option. For more information, contact the Aerolíneas office in your home country or your travel agent, or visit www.aerolineas.com.ar.

Since 2009, Argentina has charged a reciprocity fee of citizens of the United States, Canada, and Australia landing at Ezeiza. The fee can be paid with cash, or Visa, MasterCard, or American Express upon arrival.

Getting into Town form the Airport -- Taxis from Ezeiza to the center of town cost about $35. Manuel Tienda León (tel. 11/4314-3636; www.tiendaleon.com.ar) is the most reliable transportation company, offering buses and remises. Manuel Tienda León buses operate on a half-hour schedule and cost about $15. These take you to their hub in Puerto Madero, and from there, smaller buses take you to your hotel. The entire trip can take anywhere from 1 to 1 1/2 hours. From Newbery, taxis and remises to the city center cost $16 to $25. Manuel Tienda León also operates in Newbery on an approximately half-hour schedule and costs about $12. At both airports, I recommend that you take only officially sanctioned transportation.

By Bus

The Estación Terminal de Omnibus, Av. Ramos Mejía 1680 (tel. 11/4310-0700; www.tebasa.com.ar), located near Retiro Station and usually called the Retiro bus station, serves all long-distance buses. You'll use this station if you're connecting in Buenos Aires to other parts of Argentina, or if you arrive in Buenos Aires by long-distance coach from other countries. Due to the prohibitively high cost of air travel for most South Americans, the continent is served by numerous bus companies offering comfortable, and at times luxurious, service to other capitals, often overnight. This is an excellent, albeit time-consuming, option for student and budget travelers.

Among the major bus companies that operate out of Buenos Aires are La Veloz del Norte (tel. 11/4315-2482 or 0800-444-8356; www.lavelozcallcenter.com.ar), serving destinations in the Northwest, including Salta and Jujuy; Singer (tel. 11/4315-2653 or 0810-222-1888; www.expresosinger.com.ar), serving Puerto Iguazú as well as Brazilian destinations; and Chevallier (tel. 11/4000-5255; www.nuevachevallier.com), serving points throughout the country.

The Estación Terminal de Omnibus is sprawling, enormous, and confusing. Just walking from one end to another takes about 10 minutes, given the ramps, crowds, and stairs through which you have to maneuver. Routes and platform locations rarely make it to the overhead boards, so these should never be relied on as a source of information when you're trying to find your bus. In spite of the chaos readily observable here, there is an overarching order to the confusion. A color-coded system used at the ticket-counters explains, very generally, which destinations of the country are served by which bus lines. Red, for instance, indicates the center of the country, including the province of Buenos Aires, dark blue the south, orange the north, green the northeast, light blue the central Atlantic coast, and gray international destinations. However, at their sales counters, many bus companies indicate on their destination lists names of cities that are no longer served, so you may have to stand in a line and ask. Many companies also have more than one name, adding visual clutter at the ticket counters. To help you make sense of it all, use www.tebasa.com.ar, the terminal's website, while planning your trip. Click on the province to which you are traveling and a list of bus companies and phone numbers will come up. Bus tickets can also be purchased at most travel agencies. This can cost slightly more, but can save a lot of aggravation. You can also buy and download tickets ahead of time for select bus companies using the website www.plataforma10.com. Another useful site is www.omnilineas.com.ar.

By Car

Argentina is a vast country, with enormous distances between major cities. For example, Mendoza is about a 17-hour drive from Buenos Aires, Córdoba is about 9 hours, Puerto Iguazú is about 20 hours, and Ushuaia, in Tierra del Fuego is about 30 hours. (This does not include time for breaks and overnight rests.) I do not recommend driving such distances unless you have an incredible amount of stamina, and a long time to spend in Argentina to enjoy what are undoubtedly quite beautiful drives.

Buenos Aires is surrounded by a radial highway called Autopista General Paz, which, like the Beltway in Washington, D.C., or the Périférique in Paris, is seen as the dividing line between the city and its suburbs. National Route 3 runs from the Southwest and Eizeza airport, intersecting with General Paz, and becomes Autopista 25 de Mayo as it runs through the southern portion of Buenos Aires, connecting with 9 de Julio near San Telmo. The northern end of 9 de Julio connects with Autopista Arturo Illia, towards Aeroparque airport, and becomes part of General Paz.

By Train

The privatization and subsequent dismantling of Argentina's national passenger railroad system in the 1990s under President Carlos Ménem means that Buenos Aires is no longer connected by rail to other major cities in the country. A commuter train system is useful for side trips to the river island resort town of Tigre; La Plata, the capital of Buenos Aires Province; and the beach resort of Mar del Plata..

By Boat

Buenos Aires is a port of call for a variety of cruise lines, with follow-ons to Montevideo, Rio de Janeiro, and other destinations. The Yacht Club of Argentina (tel. 11/4314-0505; www.yachtclubargentina.com.ar) is based in Dársena Norte and offers docking for private boats. Most tourists who take side trips to Uruguay will be using boat companies such as BuqueBus, which heads from Puerto Madero to Colonia and Montevideo, with bus connections to Punta del Este. Sturla Viajes also offers boat connections from Puerto Madero to the Tigre islands. The number for a nautical emergency is tel. 105. For more information about cruise ships stopping in Buenos Aires, visit the official port site www.puertobuenosaires.gov.ar, contact your travel agent, or see our list of tour companies.

There have been an increasing number of crimes against those entering Buenos Aires by cruise ship. The port itself is very safe, but it is surrounded by what is known as Villa 31 -- a villa miseria, or slum. Although you may have to wait up to 45 minutes for a cab to arrive at the port after your boat docks, under no circumstances should you leave the port and walk through the surrounding area. Recently, a number of tourists have wandered out of the port, either to hail cabs or simply to walk to downtown Buenos Aires (which begins only several long blocks from the port), only to get mugged. Do not leave the port on your own, regardless of the length of time it takes for a cab or other transportation arranged by your tour boat company to arrive.

Tips for Women Travelers

Women travelers will find that Argentine men are extremely flirtatious, and leers and indiscreet remarks are common. While any looks and calls you might get are rarely more than that, drunken men in clubs may occasionally get physical. Women should be cautious when walking alone at night and should take a remis or radio-taxi after dark. In the rare and unlikely event of an assault or sexual attack, contact the police immediately. The special 24-hour number for sexual and family violence is tel. 137. The city of Buenos Aires also maintains a 24-hour police emergency center for victims of sexual violence at Pasaje Angel Peluffo 3981 at Lezica in the Almagro neighborhood (tel. 11/4958-4291 or 11/4981-6882). The women's group Centro de Estudios Cultura y Mujer (CECYM), Guatemala 4294 (tel. 11/4865-9102; www.cecym.org.ar), recommends Hospital Pirovano in the Villa Urquiza neighborhood, Monroe 3555 between Roque Perez and Milian (tel. 11/4542-5552 or 11/4542-2772; www.talleresdelpirovano.com.ar) and its EVAS program for women who have experienced sexual assault. Visit the website of the Eva Giberti Foundation (www.evagiberti.com) or www.ecapsocial.com.ar for more resources, and www.buenosaires.ihollaback.org for specific information on street harassment. In addition, check out the award-winning website www.journeywoman.com, a "real life" women's travel information network; the travel guide Safety and Security for Women Who Travel (Travelers' Tales, Inc.), by Sheila Swan and Peter Laufer; and the website www.gutsytraveler.com, with links to articles for independent women.

Single women, or women whose partners refuse to dance, who want to take advantage of the tango scene should refer to our section on "Tango Tours," many of which can provide a tango dancer to accompany you. The tango scene in general, with its strict rules, combining both chauvinism and chivalry, is a safe option for single women to try their hand at dancing. Nothing more than a dance is expected of a woman who accepts an invitation on the dance floor. In spite of tango's brothel roots, misbehavior among men is frowned upon in tango settings today.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Buenos Aires is not a particularly accessible destination for travelers with disabilities. The tiny crowded streets of the Microcentro can often barely accommodate two people walking together, let alone a wheelchair, and sidewalk cutouts do not exist in all areas. Some hotels claim to be equipped for those with disabilities but still have one to two stairs leading to their elevator bays, making wheelchair access impossible, so always ask detailed questions when booking. Four- and five-star hotels; recently renovated hotels; and American, Canadian, and European-owned chains are more likely to have rooms designed for travelers with disabilities.

The city government's special task force COPINE (Comisión para la Plena Participación e Integración de las Personas con Necesidades Especiales; tel. 11/4010-0300, ext. 13407; copine@buenosaires.gov.ar), put out a tourism guide called Guía Turismo Accesible in 2009, which might be available at select tourism kiosks or at the airport. The national task force, COPIDAS (Comisión Nacional Asesora para la Integración Personas Discapacitadas), Av. Julio Roca 782 at Diagonal Sur, 4th Floor, Belgrano (tel. 0800-333-2662 or 11/4331-7344; www.cndisc.gov.ar), has a new resource guide available with a small portion on tourism. Other organizations that offer assistance to travelers with disabilities include MossRehab (www.mossresourcenet.org), which provides a library of accessible travel resources online; SATH (Society for Accessible Travel & Hospitality; tel. 212/447-7284; www.sath.org), which publishes the Open World magazine and also offers a wealth of resources; and the American Foundation for the Blind (AFB; tel. 800/232-5463; www.afb.org), a referral resource for the visually impaired that includes information on traveling with Seeing Eye dogs. Also check out the quarterly magazine Emerging Horizons (www.emerginghorizons.com).

Neighborhoods in Brief

Buenos Aires is an enormous metropolis, with over 12 million inhabitants in the city and its suburbs. Most of what you'll be interested in, however, is in a compact area near the center of the city's historic core, around Plaza de Mayo. Below we list the neighborhoods you'll most likely see as a tourist, including the general boundaries of each. Keep in mind, though, that even in Buenos Aires, some people and maps call the same areas by different names, so use these descriptions only as a general guide.

Plaza de Mayo Area -- This is not so much a district as the historical and political heart of Buenos Aires, laid out by Don Juan de Garay in 1580 during the second founding of the city. The plaza is surrounded by government buildings and the Catedral Metropolitana, which dates back to the late colonial era. The plaza's defining feature is the Casa Rosada (Presidential Palace), home to Evita's famous balcony. This plaza is the main site of political demonstrations and a shelter area for the homeless and the piqueteros (demonstrators) who often camp out here at night. The most important ongoing demonstration is that of the Madres de Plaza de Mayo, which occurs every Thursday at 3:30pm and is a must-see for understanding the country's tragic history.

Puerto Madero -- Once a dilapidated port, the area northeast of Plaza de Mayo is now filled with an abundance of restaurants in renovated warehouses. Offices, high-rise residences, and luxury hotels are gradually popping up as well. The district can feel cold and antiseptic by day because of its vast expanses and new construction, so you might want to come at sunset when the water in the port glows a fiery red and the city skyline is silhouetted. The closest subte stop is Alem, on the B line, and a new tourist train runs the length of Puerto Madero, but walking is generally the fastest means of getting around.

Microcentro -- This is Buenos Aires's busy downtown core, home to many of the hotels, banks, and services that make the city tick. The area's defining feature is the pedestrianized Calle Florida, which runs from Avenida de Mayo to Plaza San Martín. The plaza provides a restful respite from this very compact center. On its edge sits Retiro Station, once among the most important points of entry into Buenos Aires from the provinces.

Monserrat -- Sitting between San Telmo and the Plaza de Mayo, this area is often grouped with San Telmo, though it's a proper district of its own. It's home to some of the city's oldest churches, and many government buildings have been constructed here as well. Some are beautiful old Beaux Arts structures; others, built in the mid-20th century, exemplify South American Fascist architecture, with their smooth, massive walls of dark polished marble and granite and heavy, pharaonic bronze doors. Many unions have headquarters here so they can more easily speak with government officials. To some Porteños, this neighborhood extends up the historic Avenida de Mayo toward Congreso; others call this area San Cristóbal. Parts of Monserrat are desolate and possibly dangerous at night.

San Telmo -- If you think of tango, romance, and a certain unexpressed sensual sadness when you think of Buenos Aires, then you're thinking of San Telmo. This is one of the city's oldest neighborhoods, once the home of the very wealthy until the 1877 outbreak of yellow fever caused many to flee to newly developing areas north of the city center. The heart of San Telmo is Plaza Dorrego, the city's second-oldest plaza (after the Plaza de Mayo). This neighborhood is my favorite, and I like it most at sunset when the buildings glow gold and their ornamental tops become silhouetted against the sky. Many Porteños still think of the neighborhood as dangerous, but rapid gentrification has changed it drastically in recent years. Still, take caution at night, just as you should anywhere.

La Boca -- Historically, La Boca is Buenos Aires's Little Italy, the home of Italian immigrants who came to Buenos Aires in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The focal point of La Boca is El Caminito, a pedestrianized roadway lined with buildings painted in brilliant colors, plaques and statues explaining neighborhood history, and stores selling souvenirs. La Boca is my least favorite neighborhood because it so overdoes its efforts to draw tourists that it has little authentic to offer. Be aware that the area is considered exceedingly dangerous at night. When the shops close up, you should head out. There is no convenient subway access to La Boca.

Barracas -- This emerging neighborhood in the south of Buenos Aires borders La Boca and San Telmo. For years, tourists visited only for its famous tango show hall Señor Tango. The neighborhood has the reputation of being dangerous, though the recent influx of artists and young people due to rising housing prices in surrounding areas has caused gentrification. A number of the warehouses and barracks from which the neighborhood takes its name are being converted into luxury apartments and art centers. Businesses here often claim to be in San Telmo.

Recoleta -- The name of this neighborhood comes from an old Spanish word meaning "to remember." Its history dates to the late colonial period and the establishment of a convent where Recoleta Cemetery, Evita's final resting place, now sits. Once on the edge of Buenos Aires, Recoleta is now one of its most exclusive shopping and residential neighborhoods. Marble buildings reminiscent of Paris and green leafy streets characterize this area. Avenida Alvear, crowned by the city's most famous hotel, the Alvear Palace, is lined with luxurious showrooms (some in buildings that were once the homes of the city's wealthiest residents) from the most impressive designers. There is no convenient subway access to this neighborhood.

Barrio Norte -- This neighborhood borders Recoleta, and many consider it to be part of Recoleta. However, while the two are physically similar, Barrio Norte is busier and more commercialized, with shops primarily aimed at a middle- and upper-middle-class clientele. If anyone ever describes to you a place allegedly in Recoleta but with convenient subway access, it's actually in this neighborhood. Most shops are located on Avenida Santa Fe, which is serviced by the D subway line. This area was historically home to much of the city's gay population and services, but that is changing over time as venues spread across the city, especially to San Telmo.

Palermo -- This broadly defined district actually includes a number of smaller neighborhoods: Palermo proper or Alto Palermo, home to the city's extensive park system; Palermo Chico, an exclusive neighborhood of elegant mansions located off of Avenida Alcorta; up-and-coming Palermo Viejo, encompassing Palermo Soho to the south and Palermo Hollywood to the north; and Las Cañitas, a trendy area of restaurants, bars, and shops next to the city's famous polo field.

Congreso -- The western end of the Avenida de Mayo surrounds the massive Congreso building overlooking Plaza Congreso. Though the building and plaza are important and popular attractions, the neighborhood itself has a run-down feel. Things are beginning to change, however, and numerous hotels have opened in this area, though they are not as well known as those in some of the more glamorous parts of the city. To the north along Callao, you'll come across blocks of decaying marble and stucco neoclassical buildings that call to mind Buenos Aires's glory days and Argentina's desire to rise as a global power.

Corrientes Theater District -- The Obelisco at the intersection of Avenida Corrientes and Avenida 9 de Julio is the defining feature of this flashy neighborhood. Avenida Corrientes, widened in the 1930s on both sides of Avenida 9 de Julio, is lined with the city's most important theaters and movie palaces, Buenos Aires's answer to New York's Broadway. The world-famous Teatro Colón sits a block away. Though most of the action is at night, some theaters are worth wandering into during the day as well, in particular the Teatro San Martín, which has ongoing exhibits. Starry-eyed hopefuls from the provinces still come to the area on their quest for fame, just as Evita once did (her first Buenos Aires apartment was in this district).

Abasto -- On first glance, this working- and middle-class neighborhood seems to offer little of interest to tourists. However, it's steeped in Buenos Aires history. This is where tango crooner Carlos Gardel grew up and lived as an adult. Vestiges of that time period include the Abasto Shopping Center, once an open-air market, on Calle Corrientes, where Gardel sang to the vendors as a child and first became famous. The tango show palace Esquina Carlos Gardel was built over a bar he frequented, and his home on Calle Jean Jaures is now a museum.

Once -- The name of this neighborhood is short for Once de Septiembre, taken from a train station that honors the death of Domingo Faustino Sarmiento, President of Argentina from 1868 to 1874. Once borders Abasto and has a similar history and feel. It is a historically Jewish neighborhood, and Calle Tucumán in particular still retains many Jewish businesses and kosher restaurants.

Tribunales -- The defining feature of this neighborhood is the Argentine Supreme Court, from which the area takes its name. This massive building, overlooking Plaza Lavalle, is not generally open to the public, but if you can sneak in, it's worth a look. For tourists, the most important feature of this neighborhood is what sits across the plaza, Teatro Colón, the city's supreme cultural center, also in the midst of a serious and terribly delayed overhaul.

Belgrano -- You'll probably be in Buenos Aires for a long time before you venture out to Belgrano, a well-to-do neighborhood in the north of the city, beyond Palermo. Its main feature is its barrancas, a series of hills in the center of the neighborhood and an enormous waterfront park, which is an extension of those in Palermo. While tiny, this is where you'll find Buenos Aires's Chinatown, near the intersection of Arribeños and Mendoza, close to the Belgrano train station.

When to Go

The seasons in Argentina are the reverse of those in the Northern Hemisphere. The weather in Buenos Aires is ideal in fall (Mar-May) and spring (Sept-Nov). The best travel deals are between April and June. The most beautiful time to visit, however, is in October and November when the jacaranda trees are in bloom. "High season" is the period from December through February; "low season" is from June to August. In July and August, there's a slight rise in tourism because of North American summer and the South American ski season (tourists stop in Buenos Aires before heading to nearby ski resorts like Bariloche). In December, weather is pleasant for the most part. However, you won't find over-the-top Christmas decorations and rituals, in spite of the fact that the city's population is overwhelmingly Catholic. In January and February, much of the city is abandoned by locals who flock to beach resorts in Mar del Plata or Uruguay. January is a time when many tourists do visit, resulting in overbooked hotels, yet many restaurants and museums have limited hours during this time period, often closing entirely from January 1 to January 15. Call ahead to make sure places are open.

Weather

Except for a small tropical area in northern Argentina, the country lies in the temperate zone, characterized by cool, dry weather in the south, and warmer, humid air in the center. Buenos Aires in January and February can be terribly hot and humid -- often in the high 90s to more than 100°F (38°C) -- while winter (approximately June-Aug) can be overcast, chilly, and rainy, though you won't usually find snow. As in the rest of the world, global warming is shifting these trends, and sometimes odd heat waves or cold spells happen.

Holidays

Public holidays are January 1 (New Year's Day), Islas Malvinas (Falkland Islands) Day (Apr 2, or the first Mon after), the Monday and Tuesday before Ash Wednesday (Carnival), Good Friday, May 1 (Labor Day), May 25 (First Argentine Government), June 10 (National Sovereignty Day), June 20 (Flag Day), July 9 (Independence Day), August 17 (anniversary of the death of General San Martín), October 12 (Día de la Raza), December 8 (Immaculate Conception Day), and December 25 (Christmas). Most tourist businesses and restaurants, however, will remain open during all holidays except Christmas and New Year's. Christmas itself is also celebrated on December 24, and many places will be closed that day.

Fast Facts

Area Codes -- The city area code for Buenos Aires, known locally as a característica, is 011. Drop the 0 when adding Argentina's country code, 54. The number 15 in front of a local number indicates a cellphone number, though some phones no longer use this code. You'll still need to dial 011 before the 15 if you're calling these numbers from outside Buenos Aires. Calling cellphones from overseas can be complicated. Dial whatever international code you need from your country (011 from the U.S. and Canada), then 54 for Argentina, then 9 to indicate a cellphone, then the area code of the cellphone, then the number. Thus, to call Buenos Aires cellphones from the U.S., you would dial 011-54-9-11 and then the eight-digit number. Be aware that phone numbers in other areas have anywhere from 5 to 7 digits, but always ask if a number seems strange.

Business Hours -- Banks are generally open weekdays 10am to 3pm, and ATMs work 24 hours. Shopping hours are Monday through Friday from 9am to 8pm or 10pm, and Saturday from 10am to 8pm or 10pm. Shopping centers are open daily from 10am to 10pm. Most independent stores are closed on Sunday, and some close for lunch. Some kiosks selling water, candy, and packaged food are open 24 hours. Most neighborhoods have a 24-hour pharmacy, and locutorios or phone centers.

Doctors -- Your hotel or apartment service can arrange for you to see a doctor in Buenos Aires. Your embassy can also provide you with a list of English speaking doctors.

Drinking Laws -- The legal age for purchase and consumption of alcoholic beverages is 18 in Argentina, and proof of age is almost never required, meaning that teenage travelers may have easy access to alcohol. Alcohol is available for purchase in grocery stores and convenience stores, and virtually all restaurants serve wine and beer, if not hard liquor. Drinking on the street and in parks is allowed. Drunk driving is illegal and on weekends, especially during holidays, road blocks are periodically set up to identify drunk drivers. Rowdy drunken behavior is not typical in Buenos Aires, but can be observed after football (soccer) games, particularly near the Boca Juniors stadium. Bars generally close anywhere between midnight and 4am, and nightclubs can close as late as 7am on weekends.

Electricity -- Argentina uses 220-240 volts AC (50 cycles), like most of Europe, Australia, and New Zealand. Travelers from the U.S. will need a converter for any electric appliances or electronic devices they bring with them. Standard electric plugs use a slanted two-prong similar to Australia's, but the round European two-prong is also common. British-built hotels will sometimes have British outlets, so a universal adapter is useful.

Embassies & Consulates -- All embassies are in Buenos Aires, Argentina's capital. Embassies have to deal with everything from concerned mothers whose sons have not called home during their Argentina trip, to real emergencies like passport theft, suicide, and murder. While each embassy has different rules and can be limited in providing certain kinds of help, your embassy is your best resource in the event of a problem. Before you leave for Argentina, check your embassy's website for updated information on the country as well as lists of resources, from doctors and hospitals to lawyers. The U.S. Embassy (www.travel.state.gov) provides detailed information, and it's a good idea to register on STEP (the Smart Traveler Enrollment Program; https://travelregistration.state.gov/ibrs/ui), so that the embassy and your relatives will be able to contact you in an emergency. Other embassies provide similar help for their citizens.

The embassy of Australia is in Belgrano, Villanueva 1400 at Zabala (tel. 11/4779-3500; www.argentina.embassy.gov.au).

The embassy of Canada is in Palermo, Tagle 2828 at Alcorta (tel. 11/4808-1000; http://www.canadainternational.gc.ca/argentina-argentine/index.aspx).

The embassy of Ireland is in Recoleta, Av. del Libertador 1068 at Callao, 6th Floor (tel. 11/5787-0801; www.embassyofireland.org.ar).

The embassy of New Zealand is in Retiro, Carlos Pellegrini (9 de Julio) 1427 at Arroyo, 5th Floor (tel. 11/4328-0747; www.nzembassy.com/argentina).

The embassy of the United Kingdom is in Palermo, Luis Agote 2412 at Guido (tel. 11/4808-2200; www. ukinargentina.fco.gov.uk).

The embassy of the United States is in Palermo, Av. Colombia 4300 at Cerviño (tel. 11/5777-4533; www.argentina.usembassy.gov).

Emergencies -- For an ambulance, call tel. 107 or 11/4923-1051; for fire, call tel. 100; for police, call tel. 101 or 911.

Hospitals -- English-speaking hospitals include Clínica Suisso Argentino, Av. Pueyrredón 1461 at Santa Fe (tel. 11/5239-6000; www.cymsa.com.ar), and Hospital Britanico, Perdriel 74 at Caseros (tel. 11/4304-1081; www.hospitalbritanico.org.ar). Traveler's insurance is highly recommended. Be aware that in an emergency, you may be taken to a public rather than private hospital. For specific and unlikely traumas such as knife or gunshot wounds or burns, public hospitals are often better than private hospitals, as they have more experience dealing with these sorts of cases.

Insurance -- As on any trip, traveler's insurance is a good idea. In Argentina in particular, strikes at the airport are common, which can create unexpected expenses (as well as significant delays). In addition, even with a good insurance plan, know that you will likely have to pay all your hospital expenses out of pocket and wait to be reimbursed later. If you plan to visit remote areas of Patagonia or go mountain climbing, it's good to buy increased insurance protection that will cover evacuation or repatriation, the uninsured costs of which can be between $10,000 and $25,000 in an emergency and are the responsibility of those for whom these services have been rendered. For information on traveler's insurance, trip cancellation insurance, and medical insurance while traveling, please visit http://www.frommers.com/planning.

Language -- Spanish is the national language of Argentina, spoken with a slight Italian lilt, and with y and ll pronounced "zhe." With the massive influx of tourism since the peso crisis, English has become ubiquitous on the streets of the city and many young people know some of the language. Shops, hotels, and restaurants are usually staffed by at least one or two English speakers. (A rule of thumb is that less-expensive venues will have fewer, if any, English speakers.) While non-Spanish-speakers should have little trouble getting around in general, those who know a bit of Spanish will be more reliably able to communicate with hotel and restaurant staff, less likely to be ripped off in cabs, and better able for directions and converse with locals in general. For a comprehensive, pocket-size phrase book, check out Frommer's Spanish PhraseFinder & Dictionary.

Legal Aid -- In the event of a robbery or other crime, call tel. 101 or 911 for the police. If you get into serious legal trouble, or your passport is stolen, call your embassy. The Federal Police also maintains a special division to help foreign travelers, the Comisaría del Turista, Corrientes 436 between San Martín and Florida (tel. 0800-999-5000 or 11/4346-5748; www.policiafederal.gov.ar; turista@policiafederal.gov.ar). Javier Canosa, Montevideo 711 between Viamonte and Córdoba, 4th Floor (tel. 11/5252-2462; www.canosa.com.ar), is an English-speaking lawyer who has helped foreigners with legal issues. See also "Embassies & Consulates," above.

Mail -- Post offices can be found everywhere and are open weekdays from 10am to 8pm and Saturday until 1pm. The main post office, or Correo Central, is at Av. Sarmiento 151 (tel. 11/4891-9191; www.correoargentino.com.ar). In addition, the post office works with some locutorios, which offer limited mailing services. At press time, it cost 7.5 pesos to send a postcard or letter to the United States or Canada, and 8 pesos to send mail to the rest of the world outside of the Americas. The purple-signed and ubiquitous OCA (tel. 0800/999-7700; www.oca.com.ar) is a private postal service that can mail items overseas. UPS has many locations, including Calle Tucumán 300 at 25 de Mayo (tel. 0800/222-2877; www.ups.com), and there's a FedEx office at 25 de Mayo 386 at Corrientes (tel. 11/4630-0300; www.fedex.com.ar).

Medical Tourism -- Plastic surgery is an obsession for many Argentines. Depending on your view, Susana Giménez, one of Argentina's most famous stars, is an example of either the dangers or delights of that obsession. Botox and breast augmentations are the fashion and are often covered by private health insurance. Because of the exchange rate, Argentina is also becoming a place for plastic-surgery tourism. If you are planning to be here for a long time and have been considering cosmetic procedures, Buenos Aires might be a place to have it done. Two websites with more information on medical tourism are www.medicinaargentina.com and www.argentinahealthcare.org.

Newspapers & Magazines -- Newspaper kiosks abound in Buenos Aires. The main Spanish-language newspapers are El País (www.elpais.com.ar), Clarín (www.clarin.com), Página 12 (www.pagina12.com.ar), and Perfil (www.perfil.com). Magazines like Caras (www.caras.com.ar) and Gente (www.gente.com.ar) will keep you up to date on celeb gossip, and Lugares (www.lugaresdeviaje.com) is a good source for travel articles in Spanish. If you want to help the homeless, purchase a monthly issue of Hecho en Bs. As. (www.hechoenbsas.com), which has good articles about the music and arts scene and is Buenos Aires's version of London's Big Issue. U.S. and other foreign newspapers and magazines are commonly sold in Buenos Aires, though expensive, along with the International Herald Tribune (http://global.nytimes.com/?iht). The main English-language newspaper is the Buenos Aires Herald (www.buenosairesherald.com), which is an excellent resource for travelers. You might also want to visit the website for the formerly printed but now Web publication, Argentina Independent (www.argentinaindependent.com).

Packing -- Even the most expensive restaurants in Buenos Aires rarely require formal attire, but it's a good idea for men to bring a dinner jacket. Women already know a little black dress will go a long way. If you plan to explore the milonga scene, even if you do not dance the tango, wear shoes, not sneakers.

For more helpful information on packing for your trip, download Frommer's convenient Travel Tools app for your mobile device. Go to http://www.frommers.com/go/mobile and click on the Travel Tools icon.

Police -- For police assistance, call tel. 101 or 911. The Federal Police also maintains a special division to help foreign travelers, La Comisaría del Turista, Corrientes 436 between San Martín and Florida (tel. 0800-999-5000 or 11/4346-5748; www.policiafederal.gov.ar; turista@policiafederal.gov.ar). Police in Argentina are not generally the corrupt figures you may have heard of in other Latin American countries or the merciless characters that patrolled Buenos Aires during the military regime. There is, however, an ongoing dispute between the two police forces operating in Buenos Aires: the Federal Police, controlled by national government (which is headed by the Peronist party), and the Metropolitan Police, created by Mayor Mauricio Macri, a member of the opposition and right-wing conservative party, the PRO. At times, during riots, according to Macri, the Federal Police are called out from the city in order to foment chaotic conditions. This is something to be aware of, but does not generally impact the tourist experience. You will find both police forces in most tourist-heavy areas. The Federal Police are distinguished by the rooster symbol on the medallions of their uniforms.

Smoking -- In 2006, Buenos Aires passed a law banning smoking in indoor public spaces, and in general, it is very well adhered to. It's not uncommon, however, to find a few people still smoking in bars or in clubs throughout Buenos Aires, especially as the evening drags on. Although smoking is not allowed in taxis, some drivers will still smoke; it's okay to ask them to stop if it bothers you.

Taxes -- The 21% sales tax (or VAT) is already included in the sales price of your purchase. Be aware when checking into hotels that the posted or spoken price may or may not reflect this tax, so make sure to ask for clarification. Foreign tourists are entitled to a refund on a portion of the VAT tax for purchases of certain items over 70 pesos, provided that the items are made in Argentina and are intended to be taken out of the country. However, you must request a refund invoice at the time of purchase from participating shops and present this invoice to Customs before departing the country. Check www.global-blue.com for more information.

Time -- Argentina does not have daylight saving time, so the country is 1 hour ahead of Eastern Standard Time in the United States in the U.S.'s summer and 2 hours ahead in the U.S.'s winter. Neighboring Uruguay does have daylight saving time, so be aware of this when making trips across the Río de la Plata.

Tipping -- A 10% to 15% tip is typical at cafes and restaurants. Taxi drivers do not expect tips, but many people round up to the nearest peso or 50-centavo figure. If a taxi driver helps you with bags, it's a nice gesture to give a small tip. For help with tip calculations, currency conversions, and more, download Frommer's convenient Travel Tools app for your mobile device. Go to http://www.frommers.com/go/mobile and click on the Travel Tools icon.

Toilets -- You won't find public toilets or restrooms on the streets in Buenos Aires, but they can be found in hotel lobbies, bars, restaurants, museums, department stores, railway and bus stations, and service stations. It's not impolite to ask to use them in bars and restaurants even if you are not a patron, and even if there's a sign saying not to ask. Many public toilets do not have soap or toilet paper, so it's a good idea to carry hand sanitizer and a tissue packet. Bus and train station bathrooms should be used with some caution; do not, for example, leave pocketbooks on toilet door hooks. Public toilets do not generally cost money to use, but the cleaning people leave tip jars at their cleaning station and it's a nice gesture to leave some change.

Visitor Information -- The headquarters of Buenos Aires's City Tourism Office (tel. 11/4114-5734; www.bue.gov.ar), responsible for all visitor information on Buenos Aires, is located at Calle Balcarce 360 in Monserrat but is not open to the general public. The city runs free tours (for details, call tel. 11/4114-5791 Mon-Fri 9am-4pm). Most are in Spanish, but a few are offered in English. The City Tourism Office provides information to tourists at various kiosks throughout the city, which have maps and hotel, restaurant, and attraction information. These are found at the intersection of J.M. Ortiz and Quintana in Recoleta near the cemetery, in Puerto Madero, at the central bus terminal, at Defensa 1250 in San Telmo, on the Caminito in La Boca, and at Calle Florida 100 at Diagonal Norte. Most are open Monday through Friday from 10am to 5pm. Some are also open on weekends as well, including the one at Defensa 1250. The center on Caminito in La Boca is open Saturday and Sunday only, usually from 10am to 5pm.

Argentina's Ministry of Tourism has a booth at the Ezeiza airport with information on Buenos Aires and the rest of Argentina, open daily 8am to 8pm (tel. 11/5480-0192), and one at Aeroparque with the same schedule (tel. 11/4773-9891). The Ministry of Tourism is headquartered at Suipacha 1111 between Santa Fe and Arenales, 21st floor (address is also sometimes indicated as Sante Fe 883; tel. 11/4312-5550), with a street-level information office in the building's shopping arcade open Monday to Friday 9am to 5pm. Government websites www.turismo.gov.ar and www.argentina.travel have databases and links to hotels and other services, searchable by subject, city, province, and region. The toll-free hotline number for tourism information on Argentina is tel. 0800-555-0016. Also visit http://www.frommers.com/go/mobile for travel information you can download.

Tips for Senior Travelers

Argentines treat seniors with great respect, making travel for them easy. The Spanish term for a senior or retired person is jubilado. Discounts are usually available; ask when booking a hotel room or ordering a meal. Seniors are often given discounted or even free admission at theaters and museums. Aerolíneas Argentinas (tel. 800/333-0276 in the U.S.; www.aerolineas.com.ar) offers a 10% discount on fares to Buenos Aires from Miami and New York for passengers 62 and older; companion fares are also discounted. Members of AARP, 601 E St. NW, Washington, DC 20049 (tel. 888/687-2277; www.aarp.org), get discounts on hotels, airfares, and car rentals. Anyone over 50 can join. The Alliance for Retired Americans, 8403 Colesville Rd., Ste. 1200, Silver Spring, MD 20910 (tel. 301/578-8422; www.retiredamericans.org), also offers discounts on hotel and auto rentals. (Members of the former National Council of Senior Citizens receive automatic membership in the Alliance.) Road Scholar (tel. 877/426-8056; www.roadscholar.org) arranges study programs for those ages 55 and over (and a spouse or companion of any age) in the U.S. and in more than 80 countries around the world. Most courses last 5 to 7 days in the U.S. (2-4 weeks abroad), and many include airfare, accommodations in university dormitories or modest inns, meals, and tuition. ElderTreks (tel. 800/741-7956; www.eldertreks.com) offers small-group tours to off-the-beaten-path or adventure-travel locations, restricted to travelers 50 and older.

Recommended publications offering travel resources and discounts for seniors include the quarterly magazine Travel 50 & Beyond (www.travel50andbeyond.com); Travel Unlimited: Uncommon Adventures for the Mature Traveler (Avalon); 101 Tips for Mature Travelers, available from Grand Circle Travel (tel. 800/221-2610 or 617/350-7500; www.gct.com); and Unbelievably Good Deals and Great Adventures that You Absolutely Can't Get Unless You're Over 50, by Joann Rattner Heilman (McGraw-Hill).

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

Argentina has made immense strides in gay rights in recent years, outdoing North America and Europe to some extent. In July 2010, Argentina became the only country in Latin America, and one of few worldwide, with a national law legalizing same-sex marriage. Buenos Aires had already become the Latin American capital of gay tourism by 2003, when a law legalizing civil unions went into effect. Argentina remains at heart a Catholic country, and the majority of gays and lesbians outside of Buenos Aires live a "don't ask, don't tell" life. Buenos Aires, however, is an exception to this rule and even non-gay venues will go out of their way to express their gay-friendly nature. The neighborhoods of Barrio Norte and San Telmo are particularly gay and lesbian friendly and are home to the city's two main gay hotels, the Axel and El Lugar Gay. Numerous clubs, restaurants, and even tango salons cater to a gay and lesbian clientele. Be aware of a few rules of thumb in a city where close contact is normal. Women of all stripes may walk hand in hand, and men kiss each other hello. However, when two men hold hands, it means they are gay. Ongoing violence and discrimination against the transgendered is gradually being addressed.

Tips for Student Travelers

Student discounts are common in Argentina, but usually only if one has appropriate ID. STA Travel (tel. 800/781-4040 in the U.S., 0871/230-0040 in the U.K., or 134-782 in Australia; www.statravel.com) specializes in affordable travel for student and young travelers, and issues the International Student Identity Card (ISIC), widely recognized as proof that you are a student. As well as offering discounts on a range of travel, tours, and attractions, it comes with a 24-hour emergency help line and a global voice/fax/e-mail system with discounted international telephone calls. Available to any full-time student older than 12, it costs $21. If you're a student planning to stay long term or study in Argentina, consider also looking at the U.S. State Department's website for student travelers, http://studentsabroad.state.gov.

Calendar of Events

A few holidays and festivals are worth planning your trip around. The best source of information about these events is your local Argentina tourism office. The Buenos Aires Tourism Office (tel. 11/4313-0187; www.bue.gov.ar) also provides information on all of these events. For an exhaustive list of events beyond those included in this guide, check http://events.frommers.com, where you'll find a searchable, up-to-the-minute roster of what's happening in cities all over the world.

February

Fiesta de las Murgas. Buenos Aires's version of Carnaval or Mardi Gras is not quite as colorful as Rio de Janeiro's but is still a lot of fun. Various neighborhoods have costumed street band competitions full of loud music and dancing. Every weekend in February.

Chinese Lunar New Year. Belgrano's Chinatown is small, but the dragon-blessing parade is a fun, intimate event that kids and adults are certain to enjoy. Beware of irresponsible firecracker users. The actual date of this holiday follows a lunar calendar. First Sunday of February.

Buenos Aires Fashion Week. Fashionistas will certainly enjoy this event. Design is important in the city, the first ever designated by UNESCO as a world design capital. Visit www.bafweek.com for more information. Last week of February.

April

Feria del Libro (Book Festival). This is one of the world's largest book festivals. Visit www.el-libro.org.ar for exact dates and the event schedule or call tel. 11/4370-0600. Late April to early May.

July

Buenos Aires Querible. Literally "lovable Buenos Aires," this event celebrates the history and neighborhoods of the city, with events spread throughout town. Visit www.buenosairesquerible.gov.ar for more information. Mid-July.

Exposicion Rural. Gaucho and estancia culture invades the urban center during this livestock and agricultural show. It's held in La Rural, an exposition center built expressly for the event. It also stars artisanal food purveyors. Visit www.exposicionrural.com.ar for more information. Late July.

August

Buenos Aires Fashion Week. In August, you'll find the fashionistas gathering once again, this time for the spring and summer collections. Visit www.bafweek.com for more information. Late August.

September

Festival Internacional de Buenos Aires. Theater lovers should try to visit during this 2-week event of international theater programs. Visit www.festivaldeteatroba.gov.ar or call tel. 11/4374-2829 for more information. September or October.

October

World Tango Festival. This celebration consists of a number of events across the city but is concentrated in the neighborhood of San Telmo. See www.mundialdetango.gov.ar for more information and exact dates. Early to mid-October.

November

National Gay Pride Parade. The parade route is along Avenida de Mayo. Visit the Comunidad Homosexual de Argentina website at www.cha.org.ar for updated information. Diversa, the national gay and lesbian film festival, usually occurs around this time. Check www.diversa.com.ar for the schedule. First Saturday in November.

Argentine Open Polo Championships. The world's biggest polo event, the Argentine Open Polo Championships, is held at the polo grounds in Palermo, near the Las Cañitas neighborhood. It attracts moneyed crowds from around the world, who get to mingle with visiting British royalty. Call the Argentine Polo Association (tel. 11/4343-0972) for more details. Late November to early December.

December

El Día Nacional de Tango. Always on December 11, this festival celebrates the birth of Carlos Gardel, the world's most famous tango crooner. Avenida 9 de Julio and Avenida de Mayo are blocked off for live tango concerts and tango dancing in the street. This is Buenos Aires at its most magical.

Midnight Mass on Christmas Eve (Noche Buena). Though Argentina has little in the way of Christmas rituals, the mass at the Catedral Metropolitana is a beautiful spectacle. It is usually held at 10pm on Christmas Eve. In Argentina, December 24 is a more important day than December 25, and family dinners are held on Christmas Eve rather than Christmas Day.