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This is a strikingly beautiful, romantic corner cafe in San Telmo, and one of the bares y cafés notables. It reopened in 2009 after being closed for decades. It's a step back in time, with its wood interiors, black-clad waiters, and brick walls hung with various old signs and knickknacks. They have a varied menu, from breakfast to sandwiches, to grilled meats and salads, along with an artisanal beer menu. It's a great place to sit and read a book—they even have a small library in English—or to dine outdoors and watch San Telmo pass by.