advertisement

 

Pilgrims have streamed across northern Spain for nearly 1,000 years to reach Santiago de Compostela. If you want to see the pilgrimage route up close, make a day trip to Santo Domingo de la Calzada, 68km (42 miles) east of Burgos. The town was deliberately established by San Domingo in the 12th century as a stopover for pilgrims, and its core has changed little over the centuries. The national landmark 12th-century cathedral  (tel. 94-134-00-33) is mostly Gothic and contains the crypt of its founder. A centuries-old legend is attached to the cathedral: Supposedly a cooked rooster stood up from the dinner table and crowed to protest the innocence of a pilgrim who had been accused of theft and sentenced to hang. To this day, a live cock and hen are kept in a cage up on the church wall, and you can often hear the rooster crowing at Mass. The cathedral is open March to December Monday to Saturday 10am to 1pm and 4 to 6:30pm. Admission is 3.50€ adults, 2.50€ ages 8 to 18, and free for everyone on Sunday for Mass. Motorists can reach Santo Domingo de la Calzada by following either of the traffic arteries paralleling the river, heading west from the Burgos cathedral until signs indicate N-120. If you want to stay the night, you can’t do better than the Parador de Santo Domingo★★★, Plaza del Santo 3 (tel. 94-134-03-00; www.parador.es; 103€–160€ double). Built next to the cathedral in the 12th century as a hostelry for pilgrims, its modern rich linens, lofty beds, and spacious rooms make it anything but ascetic.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.