Planning a trip to Busan

Fast Facts

American Express -- The American Express office is located on the ninth floor of the Busan Jung-ang Building #51, Daechang-dong 1-ga, Jung-gu (tel. 051/461-0098).

Banks, Foreign Exchange & ATMs -- In general, ATMs are located at the airport, the train station, supermarkets, and at banks. Kookmin Bank, Citibank, Korea Exchange Bank, and Chohung Bank all have international ATMs, and while most of these machines dispense only Korean won, some do dispense American dollars. Most ATMs provide service in Korean and English, but Citibank ATMs provide information in 11 languages. There are eight Citibank locations throughout Busan (tel. 051/621-0222; www.citibank.co.kr). Most ATMs operate 24 hours.

At banks in Busan, each customer takes a numbered ticket and waits until his or her number is called. If you want to exchange traveler's checks, make sure you have your passport, and if you are exchanging cash, you must visit a bank that is authorized for international exchange. Banks are open Monday to Friday 9:30am to 4:30pm and are closed on weekends and national holidays.

Cellphones -- KTF cellphones can be rented at Gimhae Airport and Busan's International Ferry Terminal.

Consulates -- Busan doesn't have an American consulate here, but the U.K. honorary consulate (tel. 070/7733-1055) is at 111-2, Suan-dong, Dongnae-gu.

Australia has an honorary consulate (tel. 051/647-1762) in room no. 802 of the Samwhan Officetel, 830-295, Bumil 2-dong, Dong-gu.

Canada has an honorary consulate at the Dongsung Chemical Co. Ltd., 472 Shin Pyung-dong, Saha-gu (tel. 051/204-5581). Take bus no. 2, 11, 98, 113, 138-1, 161, or 338 to the Dongsung Chemical Co. Station. They're open Monday through Friday 8am to noon and 1 to 4:30pm.

Currency Exchange -- You can change money at most Busan banks on weekdays -- just look for the currency exchange desk. The Korean Exchange Bank, 89-1, Jung-ang-dong 4-ga, Jung-gu, is the most convenient place to exchange currency downtown. You'll also find currency exchange bureaus at the airport, at the train station, and in large shopping areas. It is more difficult to exchange traveler's checks, but most banks will accept hard currency, like U.S. dollars and British pounds. Be sure to have your passport and keep the receipt to change back any leftover currency you may have at the end of your trip.

Doctors & Dentists -- Most of the nicer hotels have medical clinics staffed by registered nurses and have doctors on duty during specified hours or on call 24 hours. Otherwise, your concierge or the U.S. consulate in Seoul can refer you to an English-speaking doctor or dentist. In an emergency, dial tel. 999 or call one of the recommendations under "Hospitals," below.

Embassies & Consulates -- The Australian Consul is located at Room 802 Samwhan, Bumil 2-dong, Dong-gu (tel. 051/830-295). The Australian Embassy is at 1434-1, U 1-dong, Haeundae-gu (tel. 051/744-2281 or 051/647-1762; www.southkorea.embassy.gov.au). The Canadian Consulate is at the Dongsung Chemical Co., 472 Shin Pyung-dong, Saha-gu or 32-1, 2-ga Daechang-dong, Jung-gu (tel. 051/246-7024 or 051/240-1813). The U.K. Consulate is at 25-2 Jung-ang-dong, Jung-gu (tel. 051/463-4630). The New Zealand Consulate can be found at 84-10, 4-ga, Jung-ang-dong, Jung-gu (tel. 051/464-5055). There is no American or British embassy in Busan.

Hospitals -- Several hospitals in Busan have doctors who speak English fluently. If you need medical help, try the Good Gang-an Hospital, 40-1 Namcheon-song, Suyeong-gu, easy to find if you take the subway to Geumnyeonsan Station (exit 4; tel. 051/625-0900); or the PNU Hospital, 305 Gudeok-lo, Seogu, Ami-dong (tel. 051/240-7890), which you can get to by taking subway line 1 to Tosung-dong Station. There is a special receptionist for English speakers on the sixth floor.

Internet Access -- There are many ways to access the Internet from Busan. Many of the high-end hotels and love motels in the city provide free Internet access in the rooms. There are also thousands of PC bahngs (computer cafes) that offer high-speed connections and charge between W500 and W2,000 per hour. Some also offer printing and scanning services and many are open 24 hours.

Laundry -- Most of the city's hotels have laundry facilities available. There are no coin laundries in the city, but you can find dry cleaners scattered around each neighborhood.

Maps -- Free city maps in English are available at tourist information centers located throughout the city.

Newspapers & Magazines -- The city's newspaper, the Busan Ilbo, stopped its English coverage online, but English print versions of two Korean newspapers, the Korean Herald (www.koreaherald.co.kr) and The Korea Times (http://times.hankooki.com), can be found at convenience stores, street stalls, hotels, and bus, train, and subway terminals for W600. News magazines issued abroad can be found in most large hotel bookstores, but for more specialized journals or periodicals, visit the major bookstores.

Pay Phones -- There are three kinds of public telephones in Busan: phones that take only coins, those that accept calling cards, and those that accept both. Charges start at W70 for 3 minutes. Toll and international calls are charged depending on where you're calling and how long you talk. Charges are discounted by 30% on Saturdays and holidays and from 8am to 9pm on weekdays. Calling cards may be purchased at banks, telephone offices, supermarkets, or convenience stores in W3,000, W5,000, or W10,000 denominations.

Pharmacies -- Simple Western remedies like aspirin are most likely to be found in 24-hour convenience stores and the lobbies of high-end hotels. You can find pharmacies in any neighborhood, but none of them is open 24 hours. Most display a large cross symbol (usually green), but all of them have the Korean word for medicine (?) on their windows.

Police -- The emergency number for the police is tel. 112. There are 14 police stations throughout the city of Busan. The Busan Police are under the jurisdiction of the national government, since all of South Korea is under one national police organization.

Post Offices -- There are 145 post offices and 80 postal agencies in the city, so it's not difficult to find one. Just look for the red signs with white text and the flying-bird logo. They're all open 9am to 6pm weekdays, but only a handful are open 9am to 1pm Saturday.

Restrooms -- There are free public restrooms available at most subway stations, bus terminals, train stations, and some tourist attractions. However, some restrooms in South Korea do not provide toilet paper or paper towels. It is best to carry a small packet of tissues with you at all times. You can buy them at any corner store or in vending machines outside some restrooms for W500. American-style fast-food restaurants and large department stores have the best public restrooms.

Safety -- The crime rate is relatively low in all of South Korea. In larger cities like Busan, you should take the usual precautions as you would in any major city in the world. Watch out for pickpockets and purse snatchers on public transportation, and exercise caution when traveling alone at night, especially around the port areas.

Taxes -- A value-added tax (VAT) of 10% is usually added to most goods and services. Most stores and restaurants just include it in their prices. In tourist hotels, the VAT is applied to rooms, meals, and services and is included on the bill. A TAX-FREE SHOPPING sign on a store means that you can get a refund on the VAT when you buy at that store. You must get a receipt, and get a stamp from the Customs officer; be prepared to show him or her the purchased item and the receipt. You can get a refund at the Cash Refund Office at the airport. For more info call Global Refund at tel. 02/776-2170. You must leave South Korea within 3 months from the date of purchase to receive the refund.

Water -- Drinking tap water in Busan is not advised. Most restaurants will offer water from a self-service water dispenser, which is fine to drink. Otherwise, bottled water is recommended. You can buy bottles at any corner store or tourist attraction for about W500.

Weather -- Located in the temperate monsoon zone and influenced by its seaside location, Busan has four distinct seasons. The city is relatively warm year-round and positively steamy in the summer, reaching up to 90°F (32°C) with high humidity. Its average annual temperature is 57°F (14°C), with average winter temperatures around 39°F (4°C). Weather information can be found in the directory at www.korea.net or by dialing tel. 131.

Getting There

By Plane

The city of Busan is served by Gimhae International Airport (PUS; tel. 051/964-3114; www.gimhaeairport.co.kr), which is located about 35 minutes outside of the city, across the Nakdong-gahng. Busan is planning to build another international airport to handle the increasing demands, but there are no set dates yet.

Korean Airlines (www.koreanair.com) and Asiana Airlines (us.flyasiana.com) are the major national airlines that fly in and out of Gimhae. Flights from Seoul's Incheon Airport start from W55,000 and go up from there. International flights are available via Japan Airlines, China Eastern Airlines, China Northwest Airlines, Air China, Philippine Airlines, SAT Airlines, and Vladivostok Airlines. Note that when you leave the country from Busan, there's a departure tax, currently W12,000, which may or may not be included in your ticket price.

A standard cab to the city center costs about W15,000 including tolls. Deluxe cabs, which are black, cost twice as much (W30,000), but the drivers all speak English, accept credit cards, and will give a receipt.

Airport buses (tel. 051/972-8653) cost W900 to W1,500 and run daily every 10 to 40 minutes, depending on which line you take. There is no direct line on the subway to the airport, but you can take bus no. 307 to and from Deokcheon Station on Line 2. Limousine buses (tel. 051/973-9617) start at W6,000 and run daily every 30 minutes or so to most parts of the city, including the Lotte Hotel, Haeundae Station, and the Westin Chosun Beach Hotel.

By Train

Once Gyeongbu High Speed Rail line is completed in 2010, you will be able to take a train from Seoul to Busan in 1 hour and 56 minutes. Currently, you can take the KTX train from Seoul Station, which takes 2 hours and 50 minutes (which is still pretty darn fast), or the Saemaul train, which takes 4 hours and 10 minutes. The standard KTX fare is W44,800, while the first-class fare is W62,700 and the Saemaul fare is W36,800. Various discounts apply if you buy tickets in advance, and you'll get further discounts if you travel on a weekday. The Gupo Train Station (tel. 051/440-2497) is located in central Busan. From there, you can hop on the subway, take a bus, or catch a cab to your hotel or any other destination within the city.

To get to the train station from the city center on the subway, take line 1 to stop 13. Follow the signs to exit into the station plaza. The Gyeongbu Line travels north to Seoul and the Gyeongjeon Line goes west along the southern coast to Mokpo.

By Bus

There are two main bus stations in Busan. The major one is the Busan Bus Complex, which is in the same building as the Busan Dongbu Gyeongnam Intercity Bus Terminal (with buses that travel to the east) at Nopo-dong. From there, you can pick up subway line 1 to get into the city. The other is Seobu Intercity Bus Terminal (which has buses to the west), which is on subway line 2, stop 227 (take exit 1). Buses run daily about every 15 minutes to and from major cities throughout South Korea.

Buses from the Seoul Express Bus Terminal to the Busan Bus Complex start running at 6am and run daily every 15 minutes until 10:40pm, with ticket prices ranging from W20,100 to W29,900. Daily buses departing from Dong Seoul Bus Terminal to the Busan Bus Complex start running at 6am and depart every 60 minutes until 6:40pm at a cost of W20,600 to W30,800.

By Boat

You can take a boat to Busan Port from cities in South Korea, China, and Japan (tel. 051/999-3000; www.busanferry.com or http://busanpa.com). The terminal is centrally located, so once you disembark, you'll find it very easy to get to your hotel. You can catch the subway, local buses, or a taxi from the port.

There is also a coastal pier (for domestic ferries) and an international pier. Both are located in Juang-dong. Ships from the domestic pier daily arrive from and depart to Jeju Island, Changsungpo, Geoje-do, Okpo, Gohyun, Haegeumgang, Hungmu, and Yeosu. You can also catch a tour boat to explore Jeju and the many islands of Hallyeo-sudo (Hallyeo Maritime National Park) along the southern coast. From the international pier, you can also catch ferries to Fukuoka (Hakata) and Shimonoseki in Japan and Yodai in China. Keep in mind that whether or not the ships actually sail is completely dependent on the weather, so make sure to confirm your reservations in advance with Busan Information for Coastal Tours 16, Jung-ang-dong 5-ga, Jung-gu (tel. 051/469-0116 or -0117). Japan doesn't require visas for short (less than 90 days) visits by citizens of the U.S., U.K., Canada, or Australia. China, however, requires visas even for travelers in transit.

The following ferry companies operate from Busan passenger port: Dongyang Express Ferry Co., Jeju (tel. 051/464-2266); Gukje Dae-ho Development Co., Jeju (tel. 051/464-6601); Gukje Tong-un Co., Jeju (tel. 051/464-2228); Semo Co., Changsungpo, Gohyun, Sungpo, Okpo, Chungmu, Yosu, Saryangdo, Samcheonpo, and Namhae (tel. 051/469-3851); Shimonoseki Ferry Co., Shimonoseki, Japan (tel. 051/463-3161); Koryo Ferry Co., Fukuoka, Japan (tel. 051/466-7799); Hanguk Express Ferry Co., Fukuoka, Japan (tel. 051/465-6114); and Chinsung Co. Ltd., Yunae, China (tel. 051/441-888).

To get to the boat terminal on the subway, take line 1 to stop 12 (Jungang-dong Station). It's one stop from the Busan Train Station. Bus nos. 8, 8-1, 11, 70, 88-1, 97, 101, 109, 135, 190, 309, and 507 all go to the port.

Getting Around

By Subway

Busan's extensive subway system makes it possible to go just about anywhere within the city. There are three lines and announcements are made in both English and Korean. The trains start running daily at 5:10am and stop at 12:45am and a birdcall (as well as a verbal announcement) is used to signal transfer stations. To use the subway, you can buy single tickets at automatic ticket machines. (Tip: The automatic ticket machines accept only W1,000 bills or coins, so be sure to carry small bills. They will, however, give you coin change.) One-way fares are W1,100 for travel in one "section" (up to a 10km/6 1/4-mile distance) and W1,300 for two sections (distances over 10km/6 1/4 miles). Be sure to hold onto your ticket because you'll need it to exit the subway as well. If you plan on taking the subway or bus extensively, you should get either the Hanaro (tel. 051/868-7621) or Mybi card (tel. 051/1588-8990), which you can purchase for a minimum of W5,000 and refill as needed. Both cards are sold at bus stops, subway ticket offices, or Pusan Bank (www.pusanbank.co.kr). Fares with either card are W990 for travel in one section and W1,170 for two sections. At the end of your trip, you can get a refund of any unused fares by showing your passport and returning the card at Pusan Bank.

By Taxi

Busan has four types of taxis -- regular, call, deluxe, and TIP taxis. You can flag a regular taxi at a taxi stand or along any street. You'll know a taxi is available by the lit sign on top or a red card on the right side of the dashboard. Call taxis can be called from hotels or other locations. Some drivers of call taxis speak English, although you shouldn't count on that, as most do not. Deluxe taxis are black and charge more than twice the regular fare. Deluxe taxi drivers generally speak English, take credit cards, and provide in-car phones. They can be flagged down anywhere, but can be found more easily at airports, hotels, tourist sites, and transportation terminals. The fares for regular taxis start at W1,800 and go up in W100 increments, depending on distance and riding time. There is a 20% increase in fees at night. Deluxe taxis start at W4,200 and go up in W200 increments. Their fares don't go up at night. TIP taxis (found mostly at airports, tourist hotels, and transportation terminals) have a picture of a seagull (the official bird of Busan) on them ("TIP" is the name of the bird, not a suggestion of what you should do with your money). They provide a variety of language services and accept credit cards.

By Bus

There are three types of local buses in Busan: the regular (which are blue and white and make more stops), the express (which are red and white and make fewer stops), and the late-night bus. Local buses have destinations written in both English and Korean with recorded messages that announce the next stop. Look at the bus route and plan ahead, especially if the buses are crowded. Once you're on the bus, push the button to let the driver know you want to get off and always exit the buses through the back door. Bus drivers generally don't speak English.

Bus fares can be paid with cash (exact change required), tokens, bus passes, or a Hanaro or Mybi card (which can be used on both buses and subways). Cash fare for regular buses is W1,000 or W950 with a Hanaro card, Mybi card, or bus tour pass. For the express bus, fare is W1,500 and W1,000, respectively. The late-night buses are W1,800 cash and W1,700 with a card. All buses issue free transfers that can be used within the next half-hour. For more info, contact the Busan Bus Transportation Association (tel. 051/508-9200).

By Car

Busan is easier to navigate by car than Seoul. You will still need an international driver's license (some rental places require you to show your national driver's license as well) and must be over 21. Renting a car in Busan is not cheap, but can be convenient if you plan to travel outside the city to areas where the subway or buses don't go. You can rent a car for as few as 6 hours or for several days. Prices start at W31,800 for a small-size car (like a Hyundai Elantra) for 6 hours on a weekday (an additional W3,180 on weekends), or, for a larger car (like a Kia Potentia), W145,300 for 1 weekday (W1,450 more on weekends). There are dozens of car-rental agencies throughout the city, but only a handful operate from Gimhae Airport. They are Tongilro Rent Car (tel. 051/941-5400); Avis Rent-a-Car (tel. 051/941-7400); Gumho Rent-a-Car (tel. 051/972-1515); Jeju Rent Car (tel. 051/972-4777); and Samsung Rent Car (tel. 051/973-6611). You can reserve your car online before you arrive, or ask your hotel desk to help you with a rental if you want a car just for a short while during your stay.

On Foot

Due to its size, Busan is not a city to explore solely on foot, but there are nice places to walk once you get there by bus or subway. Areas around Gwangalli Beach and Yongdusan are especially nice for strolling. There are also wonderful hiking opportunities in the mountains and parks.