You feel as though you're walking into the sea as you follow a waiter to your table on a rock slab above the Pacific. White lights glow on the balcony, and hurricane lamps illuminate wood tables. Seafood is the specialty here, naturally, and the concept is casual. You walk to a counter displaying the fish choices of the day—snapper, tuna, lobster, the requisite steak—and tell the chef how you'd like it prepared. Ask for a sample of the three sauces that accompany the dish—the chile ago (garlic) gives a nice kick to grilled fish. Accompaniments include grilled asparagus and cilantro rice, and the breads are fabulous, especially when dipped into the fish sauces. When your food's ready, a waiter delivers it with panache. Prices for similar fresh fish meals are far lower at most restaurants in town, but the setting at El Farallon is priceless. Romance reigns despite the casual setting, and diners tend to dress up—but flat shoes are recommended. Reservations are a must.