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Fans of this rustic, brick-walled Italian restaurant gather beneath wooden pillars adorned with dozens of tiny while lights, waiting for tables if they neglected to make reservations. More sensible regulars book ahead and settle in right away for a lengthy feast. Families and romantics are equally happy, as there are plenty of menu choices for the kids and quiet corners for the couples. The wood-fired oven turns out pizzas and giant calzones in a steady stream, and the pasta standards on the menu are up to snuff: The simple Penne Dolce with fresh tomatoes and mozzarella is as satisfying as a plate full of fragrant lasagna. The sautéed shrimp with garlic and capers is simple and delicious, as is anything with gorgonzola in the mix, from a beef fillet to mushroom fettuccini to the pizza with porcini and walnuts. Cameras flash as waiters prepare flambéed peaches and coffees, and there's always a guitarist playing requests.