Planning a trip to Cambodia

Getting Around

By Plane

The Thai carrier, Bangkok Airways (www.bangkokair.com), and its subsidiary, Siem Reap Airways (www.siemreapairways.com), are the only domestic operators. The company has a monopoly on all flights to Siem Reap from Bangkok and internally and charges accordingly. The only domestic route now running is between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap.

By Car or Motorcycle

It is possible to hire a car with a driver. The best way to do this is through your hotel or a travel agent. It will cost between $20 and $30 a day.

Another way to get around is by motorcycle, although you should be an experienced motorcyclist if you choose to do this and it's important to drive slowly. Bikes generally range from step-throughs to 250cc dirt bikes. The most established place in town to rent is Lucky! Lucky! (413 Monivong Blvd.). The quality of the bikes varies so it is important to check them first, and don't be afraid to insist on a different bike if you have been given a bad one.

If you are driving yourself, whether on two wheels or four, be aware that the traffic is very unpredictable and often lethal. The accident rate increased by 35% from August 2008 to August 2009, according to government figures. Driving is chaotic and fast with all the dangers that brings.

Pointing the Way with a Rhinoceros -- At major junctions and roundabouts in Cambodia, you will often see giant figures of animals, or familiar gods. They are there for a practical reason. Many Cambodians are illiterate and can't read road signs, so these provide easy markers. So for instance when a Cambodian is giving directions he might say "Drive straight for a mile until you reach the white horse, then turn right and continue past the elephant god until you get to the rhinoceros and then turn left."

By Motorcycle Taxi

Motorcycle taxis (or motodups as they are termed in Khmer) are everywhere in Cambodia and often the quickest way to get around. Just hail one from the sidewalk. Most restaurants and hotels will also have a stand of affiliated drivers. If you find one you like, write down his phone number and use him again. Most trips around town will cost less than a dollar during the day. At night, you normally double the fee. Most people don't wear a helmet, but they should, given the dubious quality of both the motorcycles and the driving.

By Cyclo

A gentler but slower way to see the sites, the cyclo, a tricycle with a front carriage propelled by a person cycling behind it, operates under the same rules and pretty much the same rates as the motorcycle taxis. Cyclos take a lot of the stress out of getting from point A to point B. They are also good in the rain since the cyclo driver will bring out plastic sheeting to shelter you from the elements.

By Tuk-Tuk & Samlor

The tuk-tuk and samlor are relatively new arrivals in Cambodia. They are motorcycles with a trailer attached using a fairly ingenious adaptor. As long as you have more than two people, the tuk-tuk is actually the cheapest mode of transport. When in Siem Reap, you can hire a tuk-tuk for the day to tour the temples. The cost is between $5 and $10 for the day.

By Train

There was in the past a train that made the journey from Phnom Penh to Battambang on alternate days, although at the time of writing it has been suspended. Passenger services running to Sihanoukville and Kampot have also been axed. Though there is talk of reviving the creaky Cambodian rail, nothing has yet been done.

By Bus

Long-distance buses now go to all major towns in Cambodia. They tend to operate from the central market area in most towns. In Phnom Penh, different companies leave from different parts of town, although across from Psar Thmei (Central Market) is where you will find the departure points for both Sorya and GST Express. They are reasonably priced but can be cold due to excessive air-conditioning. Mekong Express (leaving from Sisowath Quay on the corner of St. 102) buses are a bit more expensive, but offer bigger seats and are worth the extra dollar or two to use them. Travel remains cheap, with journeys from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap or Sihanoukville costing under $5. Unlike elsewhere in Southeast Asia, there are few night buses and most departures leave in the early hours of the morning, with the last ones leaving midafternoon. The easiest way to buy tickets is through your hotel or guesthouse, or a travel agent.

Main routes run from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap, Sihanoukville, Kampot (stopping in Kep), Koh Kong, Battambang, Kratie, Kompong Cham, Stung Treng, Banlung, Sisophon, and Poipet. Buses also run from Siem Reap to Battambang, and Sihanoukville to Kampot.

By Boat

With the improvement in roads, river travel is diminishing in importance. Ferries do still ply many of the major waterways, however, including from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap and Siem Reap to Battambang. Boats are not as fast as buses and pickups, and charge more money and often appear overloaded. Yet they allow visitors a unique way to experience the country including the Tonle Sap, which is very much at the heart of the Khmer soul.

The boat from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap leaves the pier on Sisowath Quay (near St. 104 opposite the River View Guest House) at 7am. It costs $30 to $35 and takes between 4 and 6 hours. The boat from Siem Reap to Battambang is very much a slow, expensive, and awkward option, particularly at the height of the dry season from April to May when the waters are low and one often has to transfer to lighter and smaller vessels in the middle of the journey. What it does afford is a fascinating glimpse of the everyday life of the people along the banks of the Tonle Sap and the Sangker River. The ferry leaves Siem Reap at 7:30am, costs $16, and takes between 8 and 10 hours.

The open-air boat journey from Koh Kong to Sihanoukville is presently suspended. Going from Phnom Penh to Chau Doc in Vietnam is a great way to make it to the Mekong Delta. The boat leaves at 9am, costs $15, and takes 4 to 5 hours.

Staying Connected

Cellphones

Cellphones are plentiful in Cambodia as are available networks. The situation is chaotic, however, with many networks that don't always connect well with each other. Dropped calls, endless bleeping, and "network busy" notices are the norm. Until recently, it was hard to buy a local SIM card without proof of residency (this was to reduce the incidence of kidnappings, according to the authorities). That is now changing, although the rules remain confused and different dealers will say different things. You can buy a SIM card for about $2, and $5 top-up cards are available everywhere all over the country as scratch cards. The main providers are M Phone code 011, MobiTel code 012, Bee Line code 090, Smart Mobiel 010, Star Cell code 098, Cube code 013, and Metphone code 097. MobiTel is the most widely used. Some foreign networks are roaming-enabled in Cambodia. It not advised to use them though, unless you plan on remortgaging your house. The roaming rates are ludicrously high.

Telephone Dialing at a Glance

• To place a call from your home country to Cambodia: Dial the international access code (011 in the U.S. and Canada, 0011 in Australia, 0170 in New Zealand, 00 in the U.K.), plus Cambodia's country code (855), the city code (23 for Phnom Penh, 63 for Siem Reap), and the six-digit phone number (for example, 011 855 23 000-000). Important note: Omit the initial "0" in all Cambodian phone numbers when calling from abroad.

Internet

In Cambodia, where you find tourists you find Internet cafes. Standards vary. Phnom Penh has a few near the riverfront that would not be out of place in London. Sihanoukville wins the prize for the worst of the worst -- computers here are so riddled with viruses that they are virtually unusable. In smaller towns you might hunt harder to finder a cybervenue but there will generally be a shop or a restaurant with a couple of computers set up at the back that you can use. Rates vary between 50¢ to $1 a minute. Wi-Fi, usually free, is becoming increasingly common in hotels and restaurants. It is not always properly set up, but in Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, Battambang, Kampot, and Sihanoukville it is not hard to find a place to get connected.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

Although Khmer society is very traditional and conservative and the subject of homosexuality has long been taboo, there is also a real measure of tolerance toward gay and lesbian people. Flaunting sexuality in general, gay or straight, will invite certain negative reactions, but rank homophobia is rare toward foreigners. In February 2004, then-King Sihanouk wrote on his website that he believed that God views homosexuals, as well as transvestites, as equal because "[God loves] wide range of tastes." The former king also supports gay marriage. That remains his personal view, but it is an indication of acceptable thinking. On the other hand Hun Sen, the longtime ruler and hard man of Cambodia, disowned his own adopted daughter in 2007 because she came out as a lesbian. Cambodia held its first gay pride event in 2003 and it now takes place annually. There is a low-key gay scene in Cambodia with some gay bars in Siem Reap and Phnom Penh.

The International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA; tel. 954/630-1637; www.iglta.org) is the travel trade association for gay- and lesbian-friendly tour operators. They have an online directory of relevant businesses. Out Adventures (tel. 416/583-2680; www.out-adventures.com) based in Ontario, Canada, offers tours of the whole region. Another operator offering gay-friendly tours is Purple Dragon, based in Thailand (tel. +66 2238-3227; www.purpledrag.com).

Tips for Women Travelers

There are no particular safety concerns for women that don't affect men as well. What trouble there might be is nondiscriminatory. What you will find is that you are asked a lot of questions about your marital status and your children, even if you don't have any. Cambodians generally have a fairly conventional view of marriage and children, and if your story diverges from that, they may well be curious. The curiosity is genuine and good-natured, and all explanations will be avidly absorbed. They too will be more than willing to answer your questions about family and children. It is, most certainly, a two-way street.

Dress conservatively, since Cambodia is a conservative country. You should also take a supply of your own tampons. Sanitary pads are the norm for Cambodian women.

Tips for Student Travelers

Cambodia is very firmly on the backpacker's Asia circuit. They were coming to Cambodia years ago, when the war was still raging and better-heeled tourists stayed away. As a result there is a plethora of guesthouses, restaurants, bars, and travel agents catering specifically to this market. Now with so many open borders across what was the Bamboo Curtain, the enterprising budget traveler can wander at will all across Southeast Asia in pretty much any direction. Siem Reap and Phnom Penh both have a thriving backpacker scene, and Sihanoukville is fast catching up as it begins to rival the beaches of Thailand as a beach for chilling out. Kampot is the kind of relaxed hammock-swinging venue beloved of the budget traveler and Battambang is in the throes of being discovered. While traveling on a budget in Cambodia, you will inevitably run into many like-minded souls.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Cambodia presents considerable challenges to travelers with disabilities, but they are not insurmountable. Some smaller guesthouses and hotels will not cater to travelers with disabilities, but the bigger and more established ones will. In any case, it is a good idea to check in advance. In Angkor Wat, some parts of the temples are inaccessible to wheelchair-bound visitors because of the irregular paving and simply the nature of the temples. Plenty of it is accessible, however. In the towns and cities, what sidewalks there are usually heavily potholed and irregular. Newer buildings such as the airport and top-end hotels will have ramps for wheelchair access, but that is about as far as it goes.

The fundamental key to a successful rip to Cambodia if you are disabled is a lot of planning in advance. Useful organizations include Mobility International USA (tel. 541/343-1284; www.miusa.org); Royal Association for Disability and Rehabilitation (tel. 020-7250 3222; radar.org.uk); and Society for Accessible Travel & Hospitality (SATH; tel. 212/447-7284; www.sath.org).

When to Go

Located 10 to 13 degrees north of the Equator, like most of Southeast Asia, Cambodia varies from warm to very hot throughout the whole year. There are four annual seasons: cool and dry between November and February; hot and dry between March and May; hot and wet between June and August; and cool and wet between September and early November. The best time to visit is the cool season, when the weather usually benefits from a pleasant dry heat and the countryside is still green from the rains. As February turns into March, the heat begins to build until April and May, when it can be quite oppressive and uncomfortable. In May and June, the rains come and bring a measure of relief. It rarely rains all day, and mostly it will rain for an hour or two in the afternoon or evening. By early September, the heat begins to dissipate and the evenings are cooler. Through October, the frequency of the showers slows and the humidity starts to lower. Although the wet season is low season for tourism throughout most of the region, visiting at that time does have its advantages. It is when the Angkor complex is at its most beautiful, the vegetation is lush, and the crowds are relatively thin.

Getting There

By Plane

There are two international airports: Phnom Penh International Airport (PNH) and Siem Reap (REP). Both are served by flights from all neighboring Asian destinations although the airlines flying the route change often. When coming from Europe, Australia, or America it is usually best to book a flight to Bangkok or Singapore and make your travel arrangements for the short distance to Cambodia from there. International carriers flying into Phnom Penh include: Air Asia (www.airasia.com), Asiana (www.flyasiana.com), Bangkok Airways (www.bangkokair.com), China Airlines (www.china-airlines.com), China Southern (www.flychinasouthern.com), Jetstar (www.jetstar.com), Korean Air (www.koreanair.com), Lao Airlines (www.laoairlines.com), Silk Air (www.silkair.com), Thai Airways (www.thaiair.com), Malaysia Airlines (www.malaysiaairlines.com), and Vietnam Airlines (www.vietnamairlines.com).

It's worth noting that if flying directly to Siem Reap to visit Angkor Wat, Bangkok Airways has a monopoly on all direct flights between Bangkok and Siem Reap. If you're on a budget, it is cheaper to fly to Phnom Penh and to then take the bus or boat to Siem Reap, or travel overland from Bangkok via Poipet/Aranyaprathet.

Important: When leaving Cambodia by air, there is a $25 departure tax.

Getting into Town from the Airport -- Taxis make the 30-minute journey into Phnom Penh from the airport for a flat rate of $9. They are monitored and ticketed on entry and exit to the airport and you pay at a desk in the arrivals area. Tuk-tuks (motorcycles with a trailer attached) cost $7 for the same trip and can be booked at the same desk. Motorcycle taxis are not allowed to pick up passengers within the airport complex.

By Land

It seems that every year another border crossing from a neighboring country is opened up and another road is built or improved. Now with the road from Koh Kong completed and the border crossing with Vietnam open at Ha Tien (Xa Xia in Vietnam to Prek Chak in Cambodia), it is possible to travel the coast road from Trat and Koh Chang in Thailand all the way to Vietnam. Although Cambodian visas are officially available at the border, some travelers have reported problems and it is safer to have a Cambodian visa in advance. Here are some of the major border crossings.

From Laos -- From Voeung Kam in Laos to Dom Kralor in Cambodia -- There are actually two border crossing points, relatively close to one another. The first crossing is at Koh Chheuteal Thom on the Mekong River. The second is the road crossing at Dom Kralor to Ban Nakasang. If traveling from Laos to Cambodia, you are strongly advised to book a through tour with a travel agent in Pakse since the border crossings here are complicated and subject to change.

From Thailand -- From Aranyaprathet in Thailand to Poipet in Cambodia -- This was the first crossing to open in the late 1990s and these days it still remains the principal crossing point from Thailand. Open 8am to 8pm, this is the main route to get to Siem Reap and Angkor from Bangkok as well as to Battambang and Phnom Penh.

From Had Lek in Thailand to Koh Kong in Cambodia via Cham Yeam Checkpoint -- Now that the brand-new road from the Cambodia/Thai coastal border to both Sihanoukville and Phnom Penh is completed, this border crossing is set to become more and more important. An hour away from Trat and only a couple of hours from Koh Chang, this is the gateway to all things south including the Cardamoms themselves, Sihanoukville, Kampot, Kep, and indeed a through route to Vietnam and the Mekong Delta. The border is open between 7am and 8pm.

From Vietnam -- From Bavet Checkpoint in Moc Bai, Vietnam, to Bavet in Cambodia -- This is the main route from Phnom Penh to Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) on Rte. 1. There is a river crossing at Neak Loeung and when the road is busy there can be a long line for the ferry.

From Kaam Samnor, Cambodia, to Ving Xuong in Vietnam -- This is the crossing on the Mekong River to the delightful riverine town of Chau Doc in Vietnam. A slow river trip is one of the most interesting and beautiful ways to travel from Phnom Penh to Vietnam. Chau Doc is the gateway to Vietnam's Mekong Delta.

From Xa Xia in Vietnam to Prek Chak in Cambodia -- This crossing takes you from the Ha Tien in Vietnam's Mekong Delta directly to Kep, Kampot, and on to Sihanoukville in Cambodia. It completes the coastal route from Thailand to Vietnam.

Le Tanh in Gia Lai Province in Vietnam to O'Yadaw in Ratanakiri, Cambodia -- This is a newly opened international border crossing.

By Bus

From Laos -- Traveling overland to Cambodia from Laos involves several legs pieced together. It can be done one of two ways. First, take a boat from Voeung Kam in Laos to Stung Treng in Cambodia, crossing at Koh Chheuteal Thom. The boat should cost $10. You can also take a shared minibus to the crossing at Dom Kralor, which is becoming the easiest and most popular way to do it. Stung Treng is then served by buses on Sorya Transport, and a ticket to Phnom Penh costs 42,000 riel.

Although a Cambodian visa on arrival exists in principle, there have been some reports that it is not as straightforward as at other entry points. To be on the safe side you should get your Cambodian visa beforehand. There are no Lao visas on arrival if traveling the other way.

From Thailand -- Getting from Bangkok to either Siem Reap or Phnom Penh by bus is very easy and straightforward. Take a standard bus from Morchit Northern Bus Terminal in Bangkok (near either Morchit BTS Skytrain or Chatuchak MRT subway stations). Buy a ticket to Aranyaprathet. The trip takes about 5 hours. Once in Aranyaprathet, take a tuk-tuk for between 50 baht and 100 baht to the border. You can also take a minibus direct from the Khao San Road area, which is faster but very uncomfortable. Once you have completed immigration formalities and are in Poipet on the Cambodian side of the border you have the option of taking a regular bus, a shared or private taxi, or a seat in a crowded pickup truck to your destination in Cambodia. There is a free shuttle bus from the border to the place where the buses and taxis are parked.

Given that the journey is a long one and the lines at immigration can be long and dusty, it is advisable to break the journey with a night in Aranyaprathet. There are a number of serviceable hotels in town. The Aran Garden 2 Hotel (200 baht without fan, 250 baht with fan and TV, 370 baht with A/C and TV) is right in the center of town. Tuk-tuk drivers will know it. Expect to pay about 50 baht to get there from the station. Reception staff will be able to hail you a tuk-tuk to take you to the border in the morning. There are also a number of resorts and hotels between town and the border. Expect to pay approximately 500 Thai baht. You could spend the night in Poipet, but this is not recommended because it is utterly charmless. It takes between 2 and 3 hours to get to Siem Reap, 4 hours to Battambang, and 9 hours to Phnom Penh.

From Vietnam -- Buses connect with neighboring Vietnam at the Moc Bai border area at the town of Svay Rieng on the Cambodian side. From Saigon in Vietnam, contact Saigontourist (tel. 08/829-8914) or Sinh Café (tel. 08/369-420) for direct connection to Cambodia -- Sinh Café and Capitol Tour (also called Capitol Guesthouse) are in cahoots and one carrier takes up your transport at the border. Going in either direction (to or from Cambodia), you'll cross the border around noon and the $6 bus drops you at your destination sometime after 3pm. The overland border procedure into Cambodia is quick and easy. You just have to fill out some forms and pay the 2,000 VND tax (payable in any currency). The Capitol/Sinh office is just across the border. Going from Cambodia to Vietnam, ask at any travel agent, hotel, or the Capitol Guesthouse and be sure that you have a prearranged visa for Vietnam. Visa is available on arrival at any land crossings in Cambodia.

By Train

There are no international train routes into Cambodia.

By Boat

There is a border crossing to Laos on the Mekong, 90 minutes north of Stung Treng at Veun Kham/Dom Kralor. The rules there change often at very short notice and the border officials there a have a reputation for being fairly unscrupulous when it comes to soliciting unofficial contributions. Although a Cambodian visa is officially available on arrival, it is advisable to obtain one beforehand to ensure you won't encounter difficulties, given the frequent changes in the rules.

There are no ferry services from Thailand to Cambodia. Daily boat connections run between Chau Doc in Vietnam and the town of Neak Loeung, some 2 hours east of Phnom Penh in Cambodia. You can arrange the trip through any budget travel agent in Vietnam, and many include the boat connection to Phnom Penh as part of a multiday Mekong Delta trip. Note: Budget tour operators Sinh Café (tel. 08/369-420 in Ho Chi Minh City) and Capitol Tour (No. 14 Rd. 182, Phnom Penh; tel. 023/217-627) are now working together, so when you cross borders, the other company adopts you. It's an all-day journey in a diesel-belching tour boat, but views of life on the wide, lazy Mekong are worth it. Note: A visa is available on arrival when entering Cambodia, but you have to have a prearranged visa for entry to Vietnam. If you want to cross from Chau Doc to Phnom Penh in luxury, contact the Victoria Chau Doc Hotel (tel. 076/865-010) for a pricey private transfer on a speedy runabout boat.

Health & Safety

Staying Healthy

While no vaccines are presently required, you may choose to take extra precaustions. Staying healthy is largely about keeping your eyes open and practicing good hygiene. Some rules of thumb: Drink only bottled water, and also use bottled water to clean your teeth. Wash your hands before eating. If soap and water are not available, use an alcohol-based hand gel (with at least 60% alcohol). Always try and use restaurants that look clean, and make sure that all food is properly cooked. Avoid dairy products, unless you know they have been pasteurized. Avoid eating street food if you can. Fruit and vegetables should be washed or peeled. Put ice in your drinks only if it's cubed or tubed (crushed ice may have been chipped off a big block that has been kept in unsanitary conditions).

Many of the other big health threats are borne on the wings of the whining, pesky, hovering mosquito. Protecting yourself against mosquito bites is crucial to preventing a variety of diseases, including malaria. This means using an effective repellent (with DEET, or one of the newer eucalyptus-based products) day and night, and sleeping under a net or in a screened or sealed room. Wear long trousers and a long-sleeved shirt if you are in a risky area.

Another problem in Cambodia can be the heat and the sun. Use a good sunscreen, cover your skin, try to stay out of the sun during the hottest part of the day, and keep up your fluid intake. If you can't avoid being in the sun, make sure you wear a hat. Keep properly hydrated with water (beer, soda, or tea does not do the job). It's a good idea to carry rehydration salts with you.

There are big problems with hepatitis and HIV in Cambodia (an estimated 40% of commercial sex workers are HIV-positive). If you are determined to put yourself in harm's way, then be sure to practice safe sex.

Ailments in Cambodia

Like many poor tropical countries, Cambodia is a host to a variety of ailments that with proper attention to hygiene and preventative measures the traveler will avoid getting.

Worms & Other Intestinal Parasites -- These can be a problem due to poor hygiene. Be careful where you eat and what you eat (especially if it is street food). Watch out for any meat that looks uncooked.

Giardia, Dysentery, & Salmonella -- These are contracted as a result of infected food and poor hygiene. Giardia is a parasite that, if you are infected, causes some fairly unsociable symptoms of flatulence with the odor of rotten eggs. It is treated through a course of prescription drugs, notably metronidazole (brand name Flagyl).

Dysentery -- Dysentery is an unpleasant condition involving stomach cramps, diarrhea (with blood and mucus in the stool), and fever. In amoebic dysentery, the parasites that cause it are dealt with through a course of metronidazole. Bacillary dysentery can be treated with antibiotics if very severe, but normally one gets through it in 1 to 2 weeks, during which remaining well hydrated is vital. Salmonella is also bacterial and symptoms begin with nausea and vomiting and progress to abdominal pains and diarrhea. Additional symptoms include fever, chills, and muscle pains, and it can last anywhere from several days to 2 weeks. There is no treatment, and you just have to get through it by making sure you stay hydrated.

Hepatitis A -- Hepatitus A is a viral infection of the liver, also contracted from bad food or water. The best way to avoid it is (if over 2 years old) to make sure you are vaccinated, stick to bottled water, and keep a good eye on what you eat. Symptoms include fatigue, fever, abdominal pain, nausea, diarrhea, loss of appetite, depression, jaundice, weight loss, and itching. Inoculation takes the form of a single shot and a booster after 6 months.

Hepatitis B -- Hepatitus B is contracted through contamination by infected blood. As with HIV, it is mostly contracted through sexual contact, blood transfusion, and contaminated needles. Other more everyday objects such as a razor or a toothbrush can also be a conduit. Vaccination, which takes the form of three shots over a 6-month period, is highly recommended.

Typhoid -- Typhoid is bacterial and transmitted through contaminated food. Typhoid can be life-threatening, particularly to children and the elderly. Early detection and a course of antibiotics will usually prevent complications. Symptoms include sustained fever, sweating, gastroenteritis, nonbloody diarrhea, and, in some cases, a rash of flat rose-colored spots. Antibiotics are commonly used to treat the disease. Vaccinations are available but are only 50%-to-80% effective. Nevertheless, the vaccine is recommended.

Japanese Encephalitis -- This is a mosquito-borne disease that is endemic to Southeast Asia. Symptoms include headache, fever, nausea, upset stomach, and malaise. Vaccination is recommended, particularly if traveling in rural parts of the country.

Cholera -- Cholera is a food- and waterborne disease. The main symptoms of infection are diarrhea and intense dehydration. Occasionally there are outbreaks in some parts of the country and vaccination is recommended.

Rabies -- Rabies is a disease transmitted through bodily fluids, mainly by a bite or contact with the saliva of an infected animal. In Cambodia, there is no shortage of ill-disciplined dogs, monkeys, and bats, all of which may transmit the disease. The symptoms of rabies are malaise, headache, and fever, while in later stages it includes acute pain, violent movements, uncontrolled excitement, depression, and the inability to swallow water or hydrophobia. If you get any kind of puncture wound from a potentially infected animal, it is important to seek treatment immediately. This consists of a series of vaccinations over a 1-month period. If you are planning to spend a lot of time in high-risk areas, you might want to consider preexposure vaccinations. These make postexposure treatment far simpler, reducing the number of shots required as well as preventing the need for rabies-immune globulin (which may not be available and would therefore require evacuation to Thailand). A vigilant eye should be kept on children, given that most of them have an abiding fascination with all creatures four-legged.

Malaria -- This is a biggie in Southeast Asia and still a serious threat. There are four strains of malaria and all are life threatening, cerebral malaria being the most serious. Malaria is caused by a one-cell parasite transmitted by the Anopheles mosquito. The parasite travels into the liver, lies dormant, and grows. Then symptoms occur when it enters the bloodstream. Symptoms include high fever, headaches, nausea, vomiting, dizziness, and confusion. Initial symptoms may appear the same as for a number of other conditions, including flu. If experiencing any of these symptoms, seek medical help immediately.

It may be advisable to take a prophylactic such as mefloquine (Lariam), the antibiotic doxycycline, or atovaquone/proguanil (Malarone). The problem is that all these drugs have quite severe side effects. Larium can cause severe and distressing mood swings. Malarone can cause diarrhea, insomnia, dizziness, headaches, loss of appetite, nausea, stomach pain, vomiting, and weakness. Doxycycline may cause the skin to have an intense sensitivity to sunlight, nausea, vomiting, upset stomach, and loss of appetite. The best thing you can do is to simply not get bitten. This means covering all exposed areas of skin, especially at dawn and dusk when the malarial mosquitoes are at their most active. Use a good mosquito repellent with DEET (or one of the newer eucalyptus-based products) in areas where malaria is a problem. Sleep under a mosquito net. If you have air-conditioning make sure your room is properly sealed.

Malaria is not a problem in major towns and cities, and is restricted to remote jungle areas. Unless you are traveling to these areas you are unlikely to have a problem. There is a very low malaria risk in the more remote quarters of the Angkor Wat complex, but not in Siem Reap town. Though you are not allowed to be around the temples at night (when malaria is a threat), you should be protected with repellent during your visit. As with land mines, malaria is mostly a problem in areas of former conflict such as Samlot or Phnom Malai. Most places that tourists visit are safe.

Tetanus -- Also known as lockjaw, tetanus is a disease contracted through contamination of wounds. It manifests itself through muscle spasms. You should be vaccinated against this and make sure your booster is up to date.

Dengue Fever -- Like malaria, dengue fever is a mosquito-borne disease. It is found in some parts of Laos, particularly at certain times of year. No vaccination or prophylactic is available. Again the answer is simply to avoid getting bitten.

HIV/AIDS -- AIDS is a very serious problem in Cambodia, especially among commercial sex workers. Some educated estimates put the percentage of sex workers infected as high as 40%. Since the early '90s, it has reached epidemic proportions. Transmittal occurs through infected blood, which primarily occurs from sexual contact, blood transfusions, or shared syringes. Avoid blood products unless absolutely necessary and practice sexual abstinence at best and safe sex as a next best.

What to Do If You Get Sick Away from Home

Medical care in Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, and Sihanoukville is rudimentary, to say the least. Most hospitals are not very good. There are private hospitals in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap, and if you are not in a major town you should head there. In both Phnom Penh and Siem Reap, there are a number of GPs and small clinics with a good reputation. They are very familiar with all the ailments common to Cambodia. You will have to pay upfront, but they will provide receipts for your medical insurance. Before your trip, make sure that you have adequate medical insurance that includes evacuation. Medical care in Cambodia is quite medieval and often overstretched, and you really don't want to be on the receiving end of it for very long. If something seriously untoward happens to you, then you will need to get to a hospital in Thailand. Medical care in Thailand is excellent and cheaper than the U.S. or Europe. Even so, for anything serious, bills can mount up to thousands of dollars quite quickly and you will need to be able to cover that.

Safety

Cambodia has a reputation for violence and lawlessness. Some of that reputation is well deserved, while some of it is simply history. Only a decade ago, guns were everywhere, city streets were dark at night, and robberies were commonplace. Cambodia has moved on vastly since then, but robberies still happen. Practice common sense and take the same precautions you would anywhere else.

The Khmer Rouge may be finished, but the land mines left over from the decades of conflict are still there. The good news is that unless you choose to go to more remote regions, particularly near the border with Thailand, then you will not be in mined areas (though Kompong Speu close to Phnom Penh remains a problem area). The area around Angkor Wat is cleared. If you do see the red "Danger. Mines!" sign, take it very seriously. Do not cross into an area fenced off by CMAC (Cambodian Mines Action Center), MAG (Mines Advisory Group), or the Halo Trust. The mines will take decades to clear, but the areas that are afflicted are now fairly well defined. As a general rule, when in the countryside stay on the path and don't wander into the fields or undergrowth.

Street robbery is still a problem in the cities of Cambodia, as it is elsewhere. Bag snatchings have been increasingly frequent. This is dangerous if you are pulled off the back of a motorcycle. If you are confronted by thieves in a potentially violent situation, do not attempt to resist. Simply do as they ask. The adage of the old days in Cambodia, "don't carry it unless you are prepared to lose it" still has some value at night. It is a bad idea to walk long distances by foot after dark. Don't leave valuables hanging from your shoulder where they can be easily seen or snatched. If you are in a tuk-tuk, keep your bag in the center of the vehicle. If you are riding on a motorcycle, keep your things wedged between you and the driver to avoid being pulled off the back of the bike if you are subject to a snatching. Stay on main roads at night if possible.

You might just get a taste of old-style Cambodian gun violence in certain nightclubs (particularly the Heart of Darkness in Phnom Penh). There have been a number of cases of well-connected young men going to nightclubs and starting trouble for recreation. If you smell trouble, back away or be conciliatory.

Last, be aware that the police are not your friends. They can be massively corrupt, so if you are in trouble contact your embassy first.

A Dark Side of Cambodia -- Sex tourism is a serious issue in Cambodia. Prostitution is endemic in every town and village, with all the attendant issues of trafficking, bonded labor, violence, coercion, and child abuse. In Phnom Penh and Sihanoukville, there are also districts modeled on the Thai sex tourism resort of Pattaya, with hostess bars and gaggles of rural Khmer women trying to make a buck. AIDS is prevalent here among sex workers, though the safe sex message has finally begun to sink in as the sheer prevalence of the virus caused many to see friends or family members die.

What is even more tragic is the reputation that Cambodia gained for pedophile tourism and the stark reality it represents. Children were and are bought and sold to both indigenous and foreign pedophiles. Sihanoukville gained a real reputation for this. It is alleged that organized pedophile rings paid off the police for their full cooperation.

These days, however, they often get jailed when caught and foreign governments are proactive in prosecuting those convicted of child molestation, even when they return home. The reality is found on billboards in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap: "Abuse a child in this country. Go to jail in your own." There are quite a number of foreign pedophiles serving sentences in Cambodia for the abuse of children. Cambodian jails are very unpleasant places indeed. The battle, however, is not yet won.

If you have founded suspicions of child abuse, call the confidential Childsafe Hotline on tel. 011/312-112 (www.childsafe-cambodia.org). There is also a national police unit hot line at tel. 023/997-919. Childsafe's advice is, "Whenever possible, we ask the caller to stay near the child until our team arrives to take appropriate action to protect the child." Do not contact the local police and do not confront the possible offender, however strong your feelings.

Tips for Senior Travelers

Respect for elders is an integral part of Khmer culture and family values. Yet in Cambodia, senior travelers will not find the sort of discounts and deals that are found in the West. When booking your flights and accommodations it's worth mentioning if you are a senior since there may be discounts available.

The most important issues for senior travelers are the potential rigor of the heat in Cambodia and the paucity of adequate healthcare. Both these factors should be taken into account by senior travelers. It is also beginning to compete with Thailand as a retirement destination.

For general information on senior travel, AARP (tel. 888/687-2277; www.aarp.org), is an organization with over 40 million members that is dedicated to helping the over-50s improve their lives. Membership brings some discounts on international travel and they produce a magazine and a monthly newsletter.

Elder Treks (tel. 800/741-7956; www.eldertreks.com) offers tours to those over 50 to both Angkor Wat and the wider region.

The organization Elder-hostel (tel. 800/454-5678; www.elderhostel.org) arranges worldwide study programs, including their popular "Journey into the Heart of Asia" tour, which covers both Cambodia and Laos.

Overseas Adventure Travel (tel. 800/493-6824; www.oattravel.com), based in Boston, offers a tour called "Ancient Kingdoms: Thailand, Laos, Vietnam & Cambodia," as well as optional Cambodia add-ons to their other Thailand, China, and Vietnam tours.

Tips for Families

Cambodia is not a particularly child-friendly country. It can be a real experience overload for young kids fresh to this part of the world. What may be fascinating can also be frightening, and families will need to make sure that children are eased into this new environment very gently. They will be confused by the poverty, especially the obvious poverty of kids their own age, many of whom live on the street and lead a very hard life. Cambodia may induce your children to ask a lot of questions that may be hard to answer. You must think carefully about what you take them to see given the recent horror of Cambodia's past -- a thing Cambodians cannot explain to their own children because they have no answers.

There are also the normal health concerns, of course, and a constant eye needs to be kept in terms of hygiene rules. Make sure children wear sunblock and remain properly hydrated.

Tricky as it might be for families, Angkor Wat alone is a good reason to take your children to Cambodia. It looks and feels like the set of a movie and indeed it has been used as the set for quite a number of them. They are ancient standing history, far more thrilling than Disneyland ever could be. Impressive as the temples are, touring them can be hot and tiring, so any schedule should incorporate plenty of rest time. Apart from Angkor, the place in Cambodia most suitable for family visits is Sihanoukville. All that white sand is likely to be very much appreciated by the youngest generation.

Your children will attract a lot of positive attention, especially if they are blonde. That is no bad thing, but sometimes they might be confused or overwhelmed by it. Phnom Penh particularly can be very busy and claustrophobic, and children will need to be shielded while they become accustomed to it.

Breast-feeding in public is very common in Cambodia, so there is no need to worry about breaking a taboo.

The main worry throughout Cambodia is keeping an eye on what strange things young children are putting in their mouths. Their natural curiosity can be dangerous in a country where dysentery, typhoid, and hepatitis are commonplace.

Money

Frommer's lists exact prices in U.S. dollars or local currency, both of which are widely used. The currency conversions quoted above were correct at press time. However, rates fluctuate, so before departing consult a currency exchange website such as www.oanda.com/convert/classic to check up-to-the-minute rates.

When visiting Cambodia you can spend enormous amounts. Since 2007, prices have started to rise sharply and most things such as food, hotel rooms, and transport have risen by about 40%. On the whole, however, most things remain moderately priced. Very little tourism money reaches ordinary Cambodians. Sadly, poverty is still very much a daily reality in Cambodia for the majority of people.

You can get a hotel room for as little as $3 a night in Siem Reap or Sihanoukville (though we certainly won't vouch for the quality). On the other hand, you can drop $1,000 on the whole luxury package. Cambodia has a wealth of options in the midrange. For between $15 and $80, you can find some excellent accommodations even in expensive Phnom Penh. Battambang is particularly blessed with wonderful hotels at good prices. In Siem Reap, pricing is heavily seasonal. High-season prices can be as much as 30% to 40% higher than low season. In all these places, a good local meal will set you back about $2. A main course in a tourist-orientated restaurant will cost between $4.50 and $7 at a moderately priced place. A small can of beer averages at about $1.50 and bottled water is more expensive than in London or Paris.

There is no shortage of banks in all provincial towns of any size, including Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, Sihanoukville, Battambang, and Kampot. They offer the usual banking services: cash advances on credit cards (most accept MasterCard and Visa), international currency exchange, telegraphic transfers, and cashing traveler's checks. ANZ Royal Banks, Canadia, and SBC Banks offer ATMs with international access. Canadia Bank levies the lowest transaction charges. Most banks are open from around 8am to 3 or 4pm from Monday to Friday. Some are also open on Saturday mornings until 11:30am. ATMs are available 24 hours and are popping up everywhere. See the "Fast Facts" section in each chapter for bank locations.

The currency in Cambodia is the riel, though for anything over the smallest of amounts the U.S. dollar reigns supreme. Riel is what you use for small change. In the towns of the west, the Thai baht is also used. There are no coins in Cambodia, only notes. Cambodian riel notes come in 50, 100, 500, 1,000, 2,000, 5,000, 10,000, 50,000, and 100,000 denominations, but the red 500 riel note and the blue 1,000 riel note are the most useful and common. Wads of 100 riel notes mount up and are best distributed to beggars in handfuls. Be aware that the slightest tear on a dollar note of any denomination will render it useless. Check the condition of your change.

The use of credit cards is increasing in tourist areas, though Cambodia remains very much a cash economy. Visa and MasterCard are accepted at most upscale hotels, shops, and restaurants. Some midrange places and a growing number of other businesses are following suit. Most businesses charge a 2% to 4% fee to accept credit cards.

Come Armed with Singles -- We recommend coming to Cambodia with a large stack of dollar bills. You'll blow through them quickly while zipping around towns on tuk-tuks and motos, and the lower cost of food and drink means they'll come in handy. Larger bills dispensed by ATMs can be harder to break.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports

A passport valid for at least 6 months is necessary for entry to Cambodia.

Visas

All non-Cambodian citizens (except citizens of Laos, Malaysia, Philippines, Singapore, and Vietnam) require a visa. Visas can be obtained at any Cambodian embassy or consulate overseas. Visas are also available on arrival by either land or air. Two photos, a valid passport, and $20 are required for a month-long single-entry tourist visa. This can be extended within the country, and is most easily done through travel agents. Business visas are also available. They cost $25, and can be extended for up to a year, with multiple entry.

The simplest way to apply for a visa is online, using the e-visa scheme launched by the Cambodian Ministry of Foreign Affairs and International Cooperation in 2006. Instead of applying through a Cambodian embassy, you simply complete the online application form and pay with your credit card. After receiving your visa through e-mail, print it out and bring it with you for your arrival. To apply for an e-visa, applicants need to have a passport valid for at least 6 months, a recent passport-size photo (JPEG/PNG format), and a valid credit card (Visa/MasterCard). The visa costs $20 and there is a $5 processing fee. It is important to note this visa is only good for arrival at Siem Reap and Phnom Penh international airports and by land from Thailand at Poipet/Aranyaprathet and Koh Kong/Had Lek, and Vietnam at Bavet/Svay Rieng. It is not valid for any other border crossings. To apply for an e-visa, go to www.mfaic.gov.kh.

If traveling overland, be aware that some border posts are run very much as income-producing concerns by those staffing them. There are often superfluous touts pushing to help you complete the process for a fee. You don't need them. The process is simple. At some borders with Thailand, Cambodian immigration will insist you pay in Thai baht because they can make money on the differential on the exchange rate. There is not much you can do about this if you want to get into the country.

Although Cambodia issues visas on arrival at most if not all entry points, the same cannot be said if you are traveling the other way to a neighboring country. Vietnam requires that you have a visa before you travel whether you enter by land or by air, and at the time of writing a visa on arrival is not available when crossing from Cambodia to Laos by land. Thailand allows most nationalities to stay as tourists in the country for 30 days on arrival. At press time this was still true if you arrive by air. In 2008, they reduced the period to 15 days only if you arrive by land. Check with the Thai Embassy or a reputable travel agent if you are traveling on to Thailand from Cambodia and you want to stay in Thailand longer than the allotted time. Requirements are changeable.

Warning: Fake Visas at Poipet -- On the Thai side of the Poipet border you will be harassed by a legion of touts offering to make your Cambodian visa for you. They will charge you more than if you get your visa at the allotted office before Cambodian immigration. In recent months that harassment has turned to veiled menace. Whoever these people are (and they are Cambodians), there is obviously money in what they are doing since they could not operate without the tacit permission of the Thai border police and the Cambodian immigration officials. When I approached the border, they had actually set up an official-looking checkpoint and flagged down my motorcycle as if they were police. All this is a scam. It is perfectly normal and legal to get your visa on arrival at Cambodian immigration once you have exited Thailand. Anyone who tells you otherwise is lying. Many tourists I saw were visibly upset at the intimidation even before they had set a foot on Cambodian soil. Ignore the touts, however insistent they may be.

Customs

Visitors who are 18 years or older are allowed to bring into Cambodia 200 cigarettes or the equivalent amount of tobacco, and one opened bottle of liquor and perfume for personal use. Currency in possession must be declared on arrival. Cambodian Customs on the whole are not too fierce.

Medical Requirements

There are no vaccination requirements on entering Cambodia, but for your own well-being it is wise to get certain vaccinations including hepatitis A, hepatitis B, typhoid, Japanese encephalitis, cholera, rabies, and tetanus. It is also advisable to update your childhood vaccination series for polio, measles, mumps, rubella, and so on, if you are likely to be around children.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

Sustainable tourism means taking responsibility for your own actions and the impact they might have on the environment as you travel. It means paying attention to the environments you find yourself in and respecting the communities you visit. The International Ecotourism Society (TIES) defines eco-tourism as responsible travel to natural areas that conserves the environment and improves the well-being of local people. One thing you will notice in Cambodia is that respect for locales is low. Rubbish and plastic bags are simply thrown out onto the street. Heavily polluting vehicles often create a thick haze over towns and cities. You don't have to join in. Dispose of your own waste, don't use detergents or shampoo in lakes and rivers, and don't use electricity wastefully.

The environment in Cambodia has taken a real beating over the years. It is considered one of the most vulnerable countries in Asia by environmental activists and experts. High-canopy rainforest that once covered much of the country has been decimated by legal and illegal logging. To give you an idea of the scale of this, in 1970 Cambodia was 70% primary rainforest. By 2007, it was 3.1% primary rainforest. The soil erosion resulting from the mass deforestation is also a long-term problem. What hasn't been achieved by active plunder has been achieved by population growth in a country where subsistence-level living is the norm and resources are not used in a sustainable or renewable way.

A lot of the wildlife has also been poached or trafficked. Three-fourths of Cambodia's wildlife areas have disappeared as a result of the ravages of logging. Endangered species in Cambodia include three species of gibbon, several species of wild dog and wildcat, leopard, tiger, Asian elephant, Sumatran rhinoceros, Thailand brow-antlered deer, kouprey, giant catfish, Indian python, Siamese crocodile, and estuarine crocodile. As of 2001, 23 of Cambodia's mammal species and 18 of its bird species were endangered. Cambodia has a problem with the illegal hunting of rare species, something to keep in mind when shopping in the markets.

There has been some progress in environmental tourism and attempting to preserve what is left. In Kratie, for instance, fisherman no longer use grenades to fish, thereby killing the endangered river dolphins. Yet there is also a lot to be worried about, including the rapid development of Cambodia's coastline and nearby islands, particularly around Sihanoukville. There is a great deal being built there, and the developers are almost entirely unregulated.

"Heritage Friendly" Establishments -- Much of Cambodia's ancient history has been lost, thanks to its violent past and the continued looting and trafficking of Khmer artifacts. To help prevent this, look for the "Heritage Friendly" logo. This logo was created by the Heritage Foundation (www.heritagewatch.org), an organization working to preserve Khmer antiquities and culture. The presence of the logo indicates that a business or organization has met certain standards that help protect Cambodian heritage. Travel to Cambodia is good, but responsible travel is even better.

Eco-Tourism in Cambodia

With the construction of the brand-new road from the Thai border at Koh Kong-Hat Lek (near Trat), the Cardamom Mountains, one of the last areas of forest wilderness in mainland Southeast Asia, is set to become the scene for eco-tours, with Koh Kong as its base. This is something that will have to be managed very carefully, if it is to do more good than harm. Hoteliers have also begun to adapt to the ecofriendly trend, opening ecoretreats and a few carbon-neutral options.

In Ratanakiri and Mondulkiri, there are more and more opportunities to enjoy one of Cambodia's most remote areas. The heavy jungle is home to 12 different Khmer Loeu ethnic minority groups. On the way, you can stop in Kratie and go dolphin spotting on the Mekong. The rare freshwater Irrawaddy dolphins break the surface every now and then, but they remain powerfully shy.

Wild Asia (www.wildasia.net) is a social enterprise working to support the conservation of natural areas and the communities dependent upon their resources. They have a big presence in Cambodia and their website is an up-to-date source of on-the-ground environmental initiatives across the country. Buffalo Trails (www.buffalotrails-cambodia.com) operates tours on the Tonle Sap Lake and in the surrounding countryside. Based in Siem Reap, they specialize in sustainably run day trips where they aim to let tourists discover the beauty of the countryside and daily lives of local families. Pepy Tours (www.pepytours.com) is actually part of a wider NGO and environmental education project (PEPY stands for "Protect the Earth, Protect Yourself"). They run a variety of adventure and cultural tours, which help fund their aid work. Asian Adventures (www.asia-adventures.com) is a Phnom Penh -- based company offering a huge variety of tours all over the country under their guiding ethos of responsible tourism. In Koh Kong, the Oasis Resort (tel. 016/331556; www.oasisresort.netkhmer.com) offers local excursions to mangrove forests, waterfalls, sites for dolphin-watching, and secluded beaches.

General Resources for Green Travel

In addition to the resources for Cambodia listed above, the following websites provide valuable wide-ranging information on sustainable travel. For a list of even more sustainable resources, as well as tips and explanations on how to travel greener, visit www.frommers.com/planning.

• Responsible Travel (www.responsibletravel.com) is a great source of sustainable travel ideas; the site is run by a spokesperson for ethical tourism in the travel industry. Sustainable Travel International (www.sustainabletravelinternational.org) promotes ethical tourism practices, and manages an extensive directory of sustainable properties and tour operators around the world.

Calendar of Events

For an exhaustive list of events beyond those listed here, check http://events.frommers.com, where you'll find a searchable, up-to-the-minute roster of what's happening in cities all over the world.

January

International New Year's Day. Your standard countdown and party, sans Dick Clark. January 1.

Liberation Day. This holiday commemorates the fall of the Khmer Rouge in 1979 and honors those lost during the regime's rule and subsequent wars. January 7.

Chinese New Year. Chinese New Year is not an official holiday in Cambodia but is widely celebrated anyway, primarily by those of Chinese descent and ethnic Vietnamese. February 14, 2010; February 3, 2011.

February

Meak Bochea Day (Magha Puja Day). Takes place on the full moon to commemorate the speech given by the Lord Buddha to 1,250 enlightened monks who had gathered with no organization or prior warning. In the evening, people visit the temple to make offerings. February 21, 2010; February 19, 2011.

March

International Women's Day. This day is significant in Cambodia, and raises awareness concerning gender issues. There are often parades with floats in major towns. March 8.

April

Khmer New Year (Chaul Chhnam Thmey). Along with Ph'chum Benh and the Water Festival, Khmer New Year is one of the most important and popular holidays of the year, celebrated for 3 days in mid-April. The festival is all about water in daily life, and during this festival you will experience the reality of water over and over again (though unlike in neighboring countries, the Cambodian authorities have controlled it from becoming too out of hand). April 14 to April 16, 2010; April 13 to April 15, 2011.

May

International Labor Day. This is a relatively quiet holiday, where labor unions will sometimes organize events. May 1.

Birthday of the King. Born in 1953, this day celebrates the birthday of the present king who has been on the throne since 2004 when his father, King Sihanouk, abdicated in his favor. May 13 to May 15.

Royal Plowing Ceremony (Bonn Chroat Preah Nongkoal). This marks the start of the rainy season and the planting season. In a ceremony led by the king, elaborately decorated sacred cows plow a symbolic furrow and are then led to trays containing rice, corn, beans, and other foods. These ceremonies are held next to the Royal Palace. May 23, 2010; 2011 dates to be confirmed by astrologers.

Visaka Bochea Day. This festival celebrates the birth, enlightenment, and death of the Lord Buddha. It is held on the 15th day of the sixth lunar month. Candlelit processions take place in the evening. Late May.

June

Birthday of the Former Queen. Celebrates the birthday of the Queen Mother, Norodom Monineath Sihanouk, wife of the former king who abdicated in 2004. June 18.

September

Constitution Day. In 1993 the new constitution was adopted on this day. September 24.

Bonn Pchum Ben. During this period, Khmer people make offerings to the monks in order to gain merit. It is a time to honor the spirits of ancestors. People travel to pagodas to make offerings of food, incense, and money to help ease the burden of the spirits. Late September to early October.

October

Coronation Day. Anniversary of the coronation of King Norodom Sihamoni. The palace is lit up beautifully at night. October 29.

Birthday of the King Father, Holiday for His Majesty King Father Norodom Sihanouk. October 31.

November

November Water Festival. This celebrates the reversing of the current in the Tonle Sap River and marks the beginning of the fishing season. Dramatic longboat races are held in Phnom Penh with teams coming from all around the country. The city fills up with droves of visitors from the provinces. Dates are subject to change. November 19 to November 21, 2010.

Independence Day. Marking independence from France, on this day the king makes a visit to the Independence Monument on Norodom Boulevard. November 9.

December

Human Rights Day. In a country where human rights abuse has been an issue, this day observes the Universal Declaration of Human Rights. Cultural events are held at the National Stadium in Phnom Penh. December 10.

Fast Facts

Area Codes -- The international dialing code for Cambodia is 855.

Business Hours -- Business hours are generally between 7am and 7pm from Monday to Friday. Markets close earlier, generally by 5pm. Most banks are open from around 8am to 3 or 4pm from Monday to Friday. Some are also open on Saturday mornings until 11:30am.

Drinking & Drug Laws -- In Cambodia, there are no regulations on drinking alcohol. Drugs are illegal (though marijuana is widely available), and if caught the police will likely attempt to extract large amounts of money from you.

Electricity -- The electrical system in Cambodia is 220 volts AC. Two-pin flat plugs are the norm. The electricity can often be cut without warning. It's a good idea to carry a flashlight, especially in more remote places.

Embassies & Consulates -- The embassy of the United States is at the corner of St. 96/51 (tel. 023/728-000). The embassy of Canada is represented by embassy of Australia, located at Australia Villa 11, St. 254 (tel. 023/213-470). The embassy of Ireland is represented by embassy of the United Kingdom, at No. 27 -- 29 St. 75 (tel. 023/427-124). There is no New Zealand Embassy in Cambodia.

Hospitals -- In the event of a medical emergency, you should head to Thailand. Healthcare in Cambodia is not good. Although the main hospital in Phnom Penh is the Calmette, it is not recommended. The International SOS Medical and Dental Clinic, at No. 161 St. 51 (tel. 023/216-911), is the best place to handle minor emergencies. Naga Clinic, at No. 11 St. 254 (tel. 011/811-175), is also recommended. For any major emergency or injury, however, you'll want to arrange medical evacuation.

In Siem Reap, the Royal Angkor International Hospital (No. 6 Airport Rd.; tel. 063/761-888; www.royalangkorhospital.com) provides 24-hour emergency care, ambulance, translation, and evacuation. Check on their website before departure to make sure your insurance covers you under their terms and conditions.

Language -- Khmer is the official language of Cambodia. English is increasingly widely spoken. Some older people speak French.

Mail -- Mail services from Cambodia are unreliable and things go missing. DHL has an office in Phnom on No. 28 Monivong Rd. (tel. 023/427-726), and FedEx is at No. 701D Monivong (tel. 023/216-712). It costs 2000 riel to send a postcard to the U.S., and 300 riel to send a letter.

Newspapers & Magazines -- Two English-language dailies are available. The Cambodia Daily carries plenty of local and national news and contains good analysis. The Phnom Penh Post, which for many years ran as a biweekly, has now been relaunched as a daily. The Bangkok Post is also widely available. Locally produced magazines come and go in Cambodia. The best of the bunch at present is the Southeast Asia Globe. Bookshops stock a range of foreign and international magazines.

Police -- In Cambodia, the police are not your friends. They are generally corrupt, so stay out of their way if possible. The ones you are most likely to come in contact with are traffic police. The bribes will start high, but $5 is the maximum you should pay for an infraction either real or invented. If you have something stolen and need a police report for insurance purposes, you may find that the police will attempt to extract a "fee" for their services. If you can, bring a Khmer speaker with you to aid negotiation.

Smoking -- Smoking is unregulated in Cambodia and remains very popular.

Taxes -- Taxes are levied in the form of VAT. A departure tax of $25 is payable on leaving the country by air.

Time -- Cambodia is 7 hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time.

Tipping -- Tipping is not generally a Cambodian custom but is appreciated in some tourist areas. Check that service is not already included. Tipping 10% of the bill is more than acceptable.

Water -- Do not drink the water or brush your teeth with it. Bottled water is freely available. Make sure the bottle is properly sealed on purchase.