Information -- The State of Campeche Office of Tourism (tel. 981/811-9229; fax 981/816-6767; www.campeche.travel) is in Plaza Moch-Couoh, Avenida Ruiz Cortines s/n (btw. calles 63 and 65). Hours are daily 8am to 4pm and 6 to 9pm. This is one of the state buildings between the historic center and the shore. Tourist information offices are also in the bastions of Baluarte San Pedro (daily 9am-1pm and 5-9pm) and in Casa 6 (daily 9am-9pm). The city's Tourism and Culture Office (tel. 981/811-3989) is on Calle 55 between calles 10 and 8; open daily 9am to 9pm.

City Layout -- By far the most interesting feature of the city is the restored old part, most of which once lay within the walls. Originally, the seaward wall was at the water's edge, but land has been gained from the sea between the old walls and the coastline. This is where you'll find most of the state government buildings, built in glaringly modernist style around Plaza Moch-Couoh: buildings such as the office tower Edificio de los Poderes (Judicial Building) or Palacio de Gobierno (headquarters for the state of Campeche), and the futuristic Cámara de Diputados (Chamber of Deputies), which looks like a cubist clam.

Campeche's street-numbering system is typical of the Yucatán, except that numbers of the north-south streets increase as you go east instead of the reverse.

Getting There

By Plane -- Aeroméxico (tel. 800/237-6399 in the U.S., 01-800/021-4000 in Mexico or 981/816-6656; www.aeromexico.com.mx) flies once daily to and from Mexico City. Campeche's airport is several kilometers northeast of the town center, and you'll have to take a taxi into town (about 100 pesos).

By Car -- Hwy. 180 goes south from Mérida, passing near the basket-making village of Halacho and near Becal, known for its Panama-hat weavers. The trip takes 2 1/2 hours. The longer way from Mérida is along Hwy. 261 past Uxmal.

When driving from Campeche to Mérida via Hwy. 180, go north on Avenida Ruiz Cortines, bearing left to follow the water (this becomes Av. Pedro Sainz de Baranda, but there's no sign). Follow the road as it turns inland to Hwy. 180, where you turn left (there's a gas station at the intersection).

To go from Campeche to Edzná and Uxmal, drive north on either Ruiz Cortines or Gobernadores and turn right on Madero, which feeds onto Hwy. 281. To go south to Villahermosa, take Ruiz Cortines south.

By Bus -- ADO (tel. 981/811-9910; www.ticketbus.com.mx) offers first-class de paso (passing through) buses to Palenque (6 hrs.; 266 pesos) four times a day and two or three times per hour to Mérida (2 1/2 hr.; 152 pesos) around the clock. The ADO bus station is on Avenida Patricio Trueba at Avenida Casa de Justicia, almost 2km (1 1/4 miles) from the Puerta de Tierra. The second-class bus station, with service to nearby cities and to Mérida, is at Avenida Gobernadores and Calle 45 (also called Calle Chile on the east side of Gobernadores).

Getting Around

Most recommended sights, restaurants, and hotels are within walking distance of the old city, except for the two fort-museums. Campeche isn't easy to negotiate by bus, so take taxis for sights beyond walking distance -- they are inexpensive.

Fast Facts

Area Code -- The telephone area code is 981.

ATMs -- More than 10 cash machines are around the downtown area.

Post Office -- The correo is in the Edificio Federal, at Avenida 16 de Septiembre and Calle 53 (tel. 981/816-2134), near the Baluarte de Santiago; it's open Monday to Saturday from 7:30am to 8pm.

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