Disguised as a little take-out dive on the lagoon side of Bulevar Kukulcán, this local favorite won’t grab you unless you’re looking for it. Head along the side to the stone steps in back, and descend to an oasis of palapa-sheltered tables under the palms on a small beach next to a marina. A few beef and chicken dishes are available, but this is a place for seafood lovers. You can satisfy any craving, from cheap pescadillas (deep-fried empanadas filled with whiting, a cod relative) to shrimp in orange sauce or seafood-stuffed fish fillet. Try the signature Veracruz-style fillet, or bring your own fresh catch to be prepared any way you like. Because it is seafood, some dishes veer into the expensive range, but just barely—since it caters to locals, prices are about 25 percent lower than other Hotel Zone restaurants. You won’t hear much English here, but you will get a warm welcome, stellar service and transcendent sunsets.