Cancún’s top steakhouse, perched over the lagoon, is as famous for its high prices and flashy environment (worthy of the Vegas Strip) as much as its Kobe beef, dry-aged in house. It’s an institution that has bucked the trend toward sourcing locally. New York strips, rib-eyes and other cuts are broiled to perfection in a super-heated oven, while an equally impressive array of fish and seafood, including king salmon and Maine lobster, is grilled on a parilla. You can also choose shelfish from the raw bar, and fusion dishes such as black cod with miso and bok choy or tuna steak with jasmine rice and wasabi. The main courses are phenomnal, but it’s the small things that make the difference: a terrific chipotle lime and peppercorn sauce (one of a wide variety of butters and sauces you can choose from), and the creamy garlic potato or sweet potato mashes can justify a trip all on their own. The wine list has nearly 500 international and domestic boutique wines. Portions are large, and service is impeccable, if a bit stuffy. The check comes with a tower of cotton candy, an uncharacteristic flash of whimsy. The preponderance of stone and marble in the dim interior creates an echo that makes conversation a challenge, so opt for outdoor seating whenever possible.
- Christine Delsol