Hiking in Canyonlands National Park

Conditions along trails can be tough in summer: little shade, no reliable water sources, and temperatures soaring to over 100°F (38°C). Because of this, rangers strongly advise that hikers carry at least 1 gallon of water per person per day, along with sunscreen, a hat, and all the usual hiking and emergency equipment. If you expect to do some serious hiking, try to plan your trip for the spring or fall, when conditions are much more hospitable.

All hikers should be careful on the trails that cross slickrock, a general term for any bare rock surface. As the name implies, it can be slippery, especially when wet. Also, because some of the trails may be confusing, hikers attempting the longer ones should take good topographical maps, available at visitor centers and at stores in Moab.

The following are some of the park's many hiking possibilities, arranged by district; check with rangers for other suggestions.

Island in the Sky District -- Shorter Trails

Aztec Butte Trail -- This short but steep trail, which climbs about 225 feet, leads up to a slickrock dome where you'll see some Ancestral Puebloan granaries, as well as fantastic panoramic views across a canyon. 1 mile one-way. Moderate. Access: Aztec Butte parking area.

Grand View Point Trail -- At the trail head, read the sign that points out all the prominent features you can see, such as the Totem Pole and the confluence of the Colorado and Green rivers. Although this is a fairly flat and easy trail, you should watch carefully for the cairns that mark the trail, because some are on the small side. And stay back from the cliff edge. This trail is especially beautiful at sunset, when the panorama seems to change constantly with the diminishing angle of sunlight. 1 mile one-way. Easy. Access: Grand View Point Overlook at south end of paved road.

Mesa Arch Trail -- This is a pleasant walk through an area of pinyon and juniper trees, mountain mahogany, cactus, and a plant called Mormon Tea, from which Mormon pioneers made hot drinks. The trail's main scenic attraction is the Mesa Arch, made of Navajo sandstone. It hangs precariously on the edge of a 500-foot cliff, framing a spectacular view of nearby mountains. Views are especially good at sunrise. .5 mile RT. Easy. Access: Trail head along paved road about 6 miles south of visitor center.

Upheaval Dome Overlook -- This hike to the overlook has a few steep inclines. Upheaval Dome doesn't fit with the rest of Canyonlands' terrain -- it's the result not of gradual erosion (like the rest of the park), but of a dramatic deformity in which rocks have been pushed into a domelike structure. Experts say it may have been caused by a meteorite that struck Earth some 60 million years ago. Hiking another .5 mile takes you to a second overlook, closer to the Dome but with a less panoramic view. .5 mile one-way. Moderate. Access: Trail head at end of Upheaval Dome Rd.

Whale Rock Trail -- This trail provides breathtaking 360-degree views of the Island in the Sky District. It's a climb up a slickrock trail with handrails. Wander around on top a bit and study the varied formations; to those with some imagination, the outcrop you just climbed resembles a whale. .5 mile one-way. Moderate. Access: Trail head about 4 miles down Upheaval Dome Rd.

Island in the Sky District -- Longer Trails

Gooseberry Trail -- Although the beginning of this trail is so steep it looks like a cliff, don't be deterred. True, it drops 1,400 feet over the course of the hike, and most of that (1,300 ft.) in the first 1.5 miles. But the trail is well made and, with a little care, is quite safe. As you gingerly hike down the switchbacks -- be careful of the loose sand -- you get superb views of this rugged red-rock country. Once down in Gooseberry Canyon, it's nearly a level walk out to the road. When you decide you're ready to face the climb back to the top, be sure to take lots of rest stops to admire the varying scenery. 2.7 miles one-way. Moderate. Access: Island in the Sky Picnic Area, about 11 miles south of visitor center.

Lathrop Canyon Trail -- The first 2.5 miles of this trail are on top of the mesa, but then it meanders down into the canyon, descending about 1,600 feet to the White Rim Road. This hike traverses steep terrain and loose rock -- and remember, unless you have been able to arrange for someone to meet you at the road, you have to climb back up to your car. As you hike down the slope, you get grand views of Lathrop Canyon and glimpses of the Colorado River. It is possible to continue down to the river from the road (another 4 miles each way), but check with rangers about the feasibility of an overnight trip before attempting it. 6.8 miles one-way. Strenuous. Access: Trail head about 1 1/2 miles south of visitor center along paved road.

Neck Spring Trail -- This hike follows the paths that animals and early ranchers created to reach water at two springs. You'll see water troughs, hitching posts, and the ruins of an old cabin. Because of the water source, you'll encounter types of vegetation not usually seen in the park, such as maidenhair ferns and Gambel oak. The water also draws wildlife, including mule deer, bighorn sheep, ground squirrels, and hummingbirds. Climbing to the top of the rim, you get a beautiful view of the canyons and even the Henry Mountains, some 60 miles away. 5.8 miles RT. Moderate to strenuous. Access: Trail head about 1/2 mile south of visitor center along paved road.

Syncline Loop Trail -- This is a long, hot day hike over one of only three loop trails in the Island in the Sky District. Be sure to start early and carry plenty of water. The trail drops 1,300 feet, and the best approach is clockwise, so you take the steepest part going down into Upheaval Canyon. Along the way, you'll follow dry washes, climb small hills and steep canyon sides, cross part of the Syncline Valley, pass Upheaval Dome, traverse some slickrock, and finally hit an area of lush vegetation. 8.2 miles RT. Strenuous. Access: Upheaval Dome Picnic Area, at end of Upheaval Dome Rd.

Needles District -- Shorter Trails

Hiking trails here are generally not too tough, but keep in mind that slickrock can live up to its name and that there is generally little shade.

Roadside Ruin Trail -- This self-guided nature walk leads to an ancient granary, probably used by the ancestral Puebloans (also known as the Anasazi) some 700 to 1,000 years ago to store corn, nuts, and other foods. For 25¢ you can get a brochure at the trail head that discusses the plants along the trail. Although it's flat, this trail can be muddy when wet. .3 mile RT. Easy. Access: Trail head just over 1/2 mile west of visitor center along paved road.

Slickrock Trail -- View points along this trail show off the stair-step topography of the area, from its colorful canyons and cliffs to its flat mesas and striped needles. Watch for bighorn sheep. 2.4 miles RT. Moderate. Access: Trail head about 6 1/2 miles from visitor center, almost at end of road.

Needles District -- Longer Trails

Big Spring Canyon to Squaw Canyon Trail -- This hike over steep slickrock winds through woodlands of pinyon and juniper, offering views along the way of the Needles rock formations for which the district is named, plus nearby cliffs and mesas as well as distant mountains. Watch for wildflowers from late spring through summer. You can complete this hike in about half a day, but several backcountry campsites make it available to overnighters. 7.5-mile loop. Strenuous. Access: Squaw Flat Campground.

Confluence Overlook Trail -- This hike has steep drop-offs and little shade, but the hard work is worthwhile -- it shows off splendidly the many colors of the Needles District and offers excellent views into the Maze District of the park. The climax is a spectacular view overlooking the confluence of the Green and Colorado rivers in a 1,000-foot-deep gorge. This excursion can be done as a day hike (allow 4-6 hr.) or quite pleasantly as an overnight hike. 5 miles one-way. Moderate to strenuous. Access: Big Spring Canyon Overlook.

Druid Arch Trail -- A number of connecting trails lead into the backcountry from this trail head. The hike to Druid Arch, though not difficult, challenges hikers with steep drop-offs, quite a bit of slickrock, and a 1,000-foot increase in elevation. But the views make it well worth the effort. You hike through narrow rock canyons, past colorful spires and pinnacles, and up the steep climb to the bench just below the huge Druid Arch, its dark rock somewhat resembling the stone structures of Stonehenge. 5.5 miles one-way. Moderate. Access: Elephant Hill trail head at end of graded gravel road, manageable for most 2-wheel-drive passenger cars, but not for large vehicles such as RVs.

Maze District

Getting to the trail heads in the Maze District involves rugged four-wheel-drive roads; rangers can help you with directions.

The 3-mile Maze Overlook Trail is not for beginners or those with a fear of heights. It is quite steep in places, requiring the use of your hands. At the trail head, you get a fine view of the narrow canyons that inspired this district's name; the trail then descends 600 feet to the canyon bottom.

The 9-mile Pictograph Fork to Harvest Scene Loop is a 7- to 10-hour hike (or an overnight) that leads over slickrock and along canyon washes -- watch for the cairns to be sure you don't wander off the trail -- to a magnificent example of rock art.

Other trail heads lie in what is known as the Doll House Area. Check with a ranger for current trail conditions and difficulty.

Horseshoe Canyon

This detached section of the park was added to Canyonlands in 1971 mainly because of its Great Gallery, an 80-foot-long rock art panel with larger-than-life human figures, which dates from 2000 B.C. to A.D. 500. The Horseshoe Canyon Unit is some 120 miles (one-way) from Island in the Sky, and only one road runs in. From the parking area, it's a 6.5-mile round-trip hike to see the rock art. The hike begins with a 1.5-mile section down an 800-foot slope to the canyon floor, where you turn right and go 1.75 miles to the Great Gallery. There is no camping in Horseshoe Canyon, but just outside the park boundary, primitive camping is available on Bureau of Land Management property on the rim.