Italy’s tourist trap extraordinaire can be beguiling, in spite of the frenzy of climbing off a motorboat into a small rowboat, lying back, squeezing through a narrow opening, and being rowed out again just as you beginning to enjoy the experience. The magical colors of the water and walls of this huge grotto are extraordinary, even more so than they appear in countless images—little wonder postcard writers have rhapsodized about it since it became part of the tourist circuit in the 19th century. Actually, a small, ancient Roman dock suggests this outlet of a vast system of shoreline caverns was known long before then; it’s open daily 9am to 1 hour before sunset. In summer, boats leave frequently from the harbor at Marina Grande to transport passengers to the grotto’s entrance for 25€ roundtrip (and includes the fee for the rowboat that takes you inside).