Only a handful of other restaurants convey as effectively the earthy, grimy, teeming maze of humanity that hauls food in and out of central Catania. Established just after World War II, and sheathed with wooden panels, this osteria is set amid the densest concentration of open-air food stalls in town, two labyrinthine blocks south of the cathedral, on a piazza that by day teems with food merchants, but by night is calmer and quieter. You'll be separated from the outside by plate-glass windows and cooled with air-conditioning, but you'll still get a sense of the freshness and variety of raw material just a few steps away. Menu items include ultrafresh homemade pasta, garnished (you guessed it) with seafood and shellfish, including sea urchins and scampi; every imaginable kind of grilled gilled creature in the Mediterranean; and fresh cuts of beef, pork, veal, and lamb.