Planning a trip to Cayman Islands

Getting Married

Those who want to take the plunge and get married on these sun-dappled islands should know that there's some red tape. Visitors have to call ahead and arrange for an authorized person to marry them. The name of the "marriage officer," as the person is called, has to appear on the application for a marriage license. The application for a special marriage license costs US$180 and can be obtained from the Chief Secretary's Office, Fourth Floor, Government Administration Building, George Town (tel. 345/949-7900). There is no waiting period. Present a birth certificate, the embarkation/disembarkation cards issued by the island's immigration authorities, and, if applicable, divorce decrees or proof of a prior spouse's death.

The Cayman Islands are one of the few Caribbean destinations that allow U.S. citizens to marry the same day they arrive, instead of requiring a minimum stay before the wedding. A relevant brochure, Getting Married in the Cayman Islands, is available from Government Information Services, Broadcasting House, Grand Cayman (tel. 345/949-8092; fax 345/949-5936).

The Cayman Islands are a wedding-friendly destination. The host hotel or a wedding service can handle all ground arrangements. Wedding service companies can perform all the necessary functions related to the ceremony, providing musicians, catering, flowers, and photography, as well as the marriage application with the civil registrar or marriage officer.

Celebrations, PO Box 10599 APO (tel. 345/949-2044; fax 345/949-6947; www.celebrationsltd.com), is an excellent wedding planner, offering packages ranging from US$800 to US$3,000-plus. Bridal packages include everything from prerecorded wedding music to a personal wedding coordinator on the day of the grand event.

Competitor Cayman Weddings, PO Box 678 GT (tel. 345/949-8677; fax 345/949-8237; www.caymanweddings.com.ky), is another good choice, with packages starting at US$625 and going up into the stratosphere for deluxe weddings. You get such thoughtful extras as 36 candid photographs, two crystal memento glasses, and a two-tier wedding cake.

After arrival, rest, and perhaps a rehearsal dinner, guests usually convene the following day for a sumptuous island-style wedding. Choose from many romantic, tropical locations: a hotel, chapel, or church; the Caymanian-style Bride House; a beach at sunset; an oceanfront gazebo; a waterside restaurant; or perhaps the depths of the ocean (underwater weddings are extremely popular with divers).

Fast Facts

Business Hours -- Normally, banks are open Monday to Thursday from 9am to 4:30pm, and Friday 9am to 1pm and 2:30 to 4:30pm. Most shops are open Monday to Saturday from 9am to 5pm, but hours can vary greatly.

Country Code -- The country code for the Cayman Islands is 345.

Drinking Laws -- The legal drinking age is 18. Beer, wine, and liquor are sold at most grocery and convenience stores Monday to Saturday. It is legal to have an open container on the beach. Do not carry open containers of alcohol in your car or any public area that isn't zoned for alcohol consumption. The police can fine you on the spot. Don't even think about driving while intoxicated.

Drugstores -- If you're traveling to Little Cayman or Cayman Brac, don't depend on local outlets there to have the drugs or medication you need. Stock up before you go. On Grand Cayman the most convenient pharmacies are Fosters Food Fair Pharmacy in the Strand Shopping Centre on West Bay Road, Seven Mile Beach (tel. 345/945-7759; www.fosters-iga.com), open Monday to Saturday 7am to 10pm; and Cayman Drug in Kirk Freeport Centre, George Town (tel. 345/949-2597), open Monday to Friday 9am to 5:30pm and Saturday 8:30am to 4pm.

Electricity -- Electricity on the Cayman Islands is 110-volt AC (60 cycles), so adapters or transformers are not required for U.S. and Canadian appliances. You will need to bring adapters and transformers if you're traveling with appliances from Europe, Australia, or New Zealand.

Embassies & Consulates -- There is a Canadian consulate along Earth Close, Landmark Square (tel. +1 345-949-9400) and a US Consular Agency on Smith Road Centre, George Town (+1 345-623-8173.

Emergencies -- On Grand Cayman dial tel. 555 for an ambulance; tel. 345/949-0241 for an air ambulance from Island Air; and tel. 911 for police, fire, or medical emergencies. On Cayman Brac and Little Cayman, dial tel. 911 in an emergency.

Etiquette & Customs -- You should pay attention to dress code etiquette in the Cayman Islands, as it remains a "proper" British crown colony and its residents are often conservative in dress and manners. Avoid wearing bathing suits or scanty beachwear outside of beach areas and cruise ships. Cover up in public areas, especially on the streets of George Town. There are no nude beaches, and public nudity, including topless bathing, is strictly prohibited by law. Visitors will want to wear smart casual tropical resort wear at most restaurants. When attending church, "Sunday dress" is appropriate -- that is, no shorts or T-shirts. Men don't have to wear ties, however. Avoid profanity in public -- it is very much frowned upon.

For business attire, concessions are made for the local climate. Open collars, white trousers, knit shirts, and blazers are, to an increasing degree, appropriate for business meetings. Punctuality is appreciated, even if the temptation exists to observe a more relaxed "island time." Don't be surprised if some of the meeting planners suggest a fishing or snorkeling trip on a private boat.

Gasoline (Petrol) -- Stations charge about the same rates. Taxes are already included in the printed price. One U.S. gallon equals 3.8 liters or .85 imperial gallons.

Holidays -- Caymanians observe New Year's Day (Jan 1), National Heroes' Day (Jan 27), Ash Wednesday (Feb or Mar), Good Friday (Mar or Apr), Easter (Mar or Apr), Discovery Day (third week in May), Whitsunday (May or June), the Queen's Birthday (June), Constitution Day (July 7), Remembrance Day (second Mon in Nov), Christmas Day (Dec 25), and Boxing Day (Dec 26).

Hospitals -- On Grand Cayman, George Town Hospital (tel. 345/949-8600; www.hsa.ky) lies south of George Town on Hospital Road (south of Smith Rd.).

Insurance -- For information on traveler's insurance, trip cancellation insurance, and medical insurance while traveling, visit www.frommers.com/tips. In general, we always recommend that visitors to the Cayman Islands purchase travel insurance if they can afford it. For the most part, the Caymans are a safe destination. However, in spite of safety precautions, accidents do occur, especially among snorkelers and scuba divers. Even if you're an adventurous traveler, any number of things can go wrong on a trip -- lost luggage, trip cancellation, or a medical emergency, to name a few examples -- so consider insurance for added protection.

Internet Access -- Most large resorts and hotels have Internet access. You can also access the Internet at Café del Sol, located on Seven Mile Beach at the Marquee Cinema Shopping Centre on Lawrence Blvd (tel. 345/946-2233).

Language -- English is the official language of the islands.

Legal Aid -- In such a small island country, there are no local resources for legal aid. You must hire a foreign lawyer, and be prepared to post some upfront money.

Lost & Found -- Be sure to notify all of your banks and credit card companies immediately upon discovering your wallet has been lost or stolen, and file a report at the nearest police precinct. Your bank, credit card company, or insurer may require a police report number or record of the loss. Most credit card companies have an emergency toll-free number to call if your card is lost or stolen; they may be able to wire you a cash advance immediately or deliver an emergency credit card in a day or two. Visa's emergency number is tel. 410/581-9994. American Express cardholders and traveler's-check holders should call tel. 800/221-7282. MasterCard holders should call tel. 800/307-7309 or 636/722-7111. For other credit cards, call the toll-free number directory at tel. 800/555-1212.

If you need emergency cash over the weekend when all banks are closed, you can have money wired to you via Western Union (tel. 800/325-6000; www.westernunion.com).

Mail -- Most airmail between the Cayman Islands and the U.S. mainland takes from 2 to 7 days. The Cayman Islands don't use postal or zip codes. The main post office in George Town lies at Edward Street and Cardinal Avenue (tel. 345/949-2474), between the Royal Bank of Canada and the Bank of Nova Scotia.

Sending a postcard to the United States costs CI20¢. An airmail letter to the U.S. costs CI75¢ per half-ounce. Rates to Europe are CI80¢ per half-ounce for an airmail letter. Postcards to Canada, the U.K., Australia, and New Zealand range in price from CI20¢ to CI$1; airmail letters range from CI75¢ to CI$1 per ounce. It's recommended that packages be sent by Federal Express or another trackable delivery service.

Newspapers & Magazines -- Published daily, the Caymanian Compass is the most popular newspaper on Grand Cayman. The Friday edition is especially helpful because it lists current and upcoming events. Rival papers include New Caymanian, published every Friday, and Cayman Net News, published Tuesday and Thursday. Available at most hotels, What's Hot is a free monthly magazine geared toward visitors. Copies of the Miami Herald and the International Herald Tribune are available at the big resorts and at most major newsstands in George Town.

Police -- Call tel. 911 for the police.

Smoking: Indoor smoking is banned in all public places.

Taxes -- A government tourist tax of 10% is added to your hotel bill. A departure tax of CI$20 is also collected when you leave the Caymans; this tax is included in your plane fare. There is no tax on goods and services.

Telephones -- Telephone and fax services are offered by Cable & Wireless (tel. 345/949-7800) at Anderson Square in George Town.

Time -- U.S. Eastern Standard Time (EST) is in effect year-round; daylight saving time is not observed. Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) is 5 hours ahead of EST, so when it's noon in the Cayman Islands, it's 5pm in London (GMT) and 2am the next day in Sydney (or 6pm in London and 3am in Sydney during the summer months).

Tipping -- Most restaurants add a 10% to 15% charge that is intended to be in lieu of a tip, so check your bill carefully. Hotels also often add a 10% service charge to your bill. Taxi drivers expect a 10% to 15% tip.

Toilets -- Public restrooms are found along Seven Mile Beach on Grand Cayman. Public facilities can be found at most beaches, though they are few and far between and often unpleasant. Visitors usually use the facilities of the resorts, although you should technically be a guest or customer (you can always just purchase a soft drink or a bottle of water).

Visas -- Consult www.caymanislands.ky for additional visa information.

Useful Phone Numbers -- U.S. Dept. of State Travel Advisory: tel. 202/647-5225 (manned 24 hr.); U.S. Passport Agency: tel. 202/647-0518; U.S. Centers for Disease Control: tel. 800/CDC-INFO (232-4636).

Visitor Information -- Before you go, check out the Cayman Islands Department of Tourism website (www.caymanislands.ky), an extensive search engine designed to help you find information about accommodations, dining, shopping, watersports, and other travel services. You can also sign up for printed or e-mail brochures and book vacations directly on this site. Alternatively, write to the Cayman Department of Tourism at PO Box 67, George Town, Grand Cayman, B.W.I., or call tel. 345/949-0623. It's located in the Pavilion Building on Cricket Square in George Town. Hours are Monday to Friday from 8:30am to 5pm.

In the United States, the Cayman Islands Department of Tourism maintains the following offices: 6100 Blue Lagoon Dr., Ste. 1202, Miami, FL 33126 (tel. 305/266-2300; fax 305/267-2932); 9525 West Bryn Mawr, Ste. 160, Rosemont, IL 60018 (tel. 847/678-6446; fax 847/678-6675); Two Memorial City Plaza, 820 Gessner, Ste. 1335, Houston, TX 77024 (tel. 713/461-1317; fax 713/461-7409); 420 Lexington Ave., Ste. 2733, New York, NY 10118 (tel. 212/889-9009; fax 212/889-9125).

In Canada, contact Travel Marketing Consultants, 234 Eglington Ave. East, Ste. 306, Toronto, ON M4P1 K5 (tel. 416/485-1550 or 800/263-5808; fax 416/972-5071).

In the United Kingdom, contact Cayman Islands, 6 Arlington St., London SW1 1RE (tel. 0207/491-7771; fax 0207/409-7773).

The Cayman Islands Government website (www.gov.ky) provides important tourist and travel information, current local news, and a community and sports calendar. Destination Cayman (www.destination.ky) is another great information source, including a Cayman business directory, travel news and local forecasts, annual events, photographs, and more.

Since the Cayman Islands are so small, finding very detailed maps is rarely a problem. All you'll need is the Cayman Islands Travelers' Road & Dive Map, which is free. This foldout map also includes good maps of Little Cayman and Cayman Brac if you're planning to visit these satellite islands. Car rental firms distribute this map, and it is available at hotels, condo rentals, tourist attractions, restaurants, dive shops, and the Owen Roberts Airport.

Water -- The water in the Cayman Islands is, for the most part, safe to drink. Two desalination plants on Grand Cayman supply good-quality purified tap water to the entire West End, including Seven Mile Beach. If you can determine that you're drinking desalinated water, then it's safe to drink. Just ask. Cayman Brac's desalination plant also supplies purified water to residents, but Little Cayman establishments have their own water systems. If your hotel on Little Cayman relies on rainwater collected in cisterns, it's best to drink only bottled water. When checking into hotels, ask about the water source. Never drink from a river, spring, or stream, regardless of how clean the water might appear.

Tips on Accommodations

The government of the Cayman Islands imposes a 10% surcharge on all hotel room rentals, which is included in the price.

Hotels also charge a room tax. The room tax depends on the quality of the hotel -- it might be relatively low for a guesthouse but steeper for a first-class resort. When booking a room, make sure you understand whether the price you've been quoted includes the room tax (which is different from the 10% hotel room surcharge), so that you avoid an unpleasant surprise when it comes time to pay the bill.

Furthermore, most hotels routinely add 10% to 12% for "service," even if you didn't see much evidence of it. That means that with tax and service, some bills are 17% or even 25% higher than the price that was originally quoted! Naturally, it's best to determine before you book just how much the hotel, guesthouse, or inn plans to add to your bill at the end of your stay.

That's not all. Some hotels slip in little hidden extras that mount quickly. For example, it's common for many places to quote rates that include a continental breakfast. Should you prefer ham and eggs, however, you will pay an extra charge. If you request special privileges, like extra towels for the beach, beach chairs, or laundry done in a hurry, surcharges may mount. It pays to watch those extras and to ask questions before you commit.

Hotels & Resorts -- Many budget travelers assume they can't afford the big hotels and resorts. But with so many packages out there and frequent sales, you might be pleasantly surprised, even in the winter.

The rates given in this guide are "rack rates" -- that is, the officially posted rate that you'd be given if you just walked in off the street. Almost everyone ends up paying less than the rack rate through packages, bargaining, and discounts. Think of the rates as guidelines to help you comparison-shop.

Some hotels are quite flexible about their rates, and many offer discounts and upgrades whenever they have a big block of rooms to fill and few reservations. The smaller hotels and inns are not as likely to be generous with discounts, much less upgrades. A good travel agent may know which hotels have reduced their rates and can help you save serious money.

Condos, Villas & Cottages -- Particularly if you're traveling with your family or a group of friends, a "housekeeping holiday" can be one of the least expensive ways to vacation in the Caymans. And if you like privacy and independence, it's a good way to go. Accommodations with kitchens are available on all the islands. Some are individual cottages, others are condo complexes with swimming pools, and some are private homes that owners rent out while they're away.

In the simpler rentals, you do your own cooking and laundry and, in a few cases, your own housekeeping. This may not be your idea of a good time in the sun, but it saves money -- a lot of money. The savings, especially for a group of three to six people, can range from 50% to 60% of what a hotel would cost. Groceries are often priced 35% to 60% higher than on the U.S. mainland, as nearly all foodstuffs have to be imported, but even so, preparing your own food will be a lot cheaper than eating all your meals at restaurants.

Most villas, condos, and cottages have a staff, or at least a maid who comes in a few days a week, and they also provide the essentials, including linens and housewares. Many places (though not all) include maid service and fresh linens in the price. Condos usually come with a reception desk and are often comparable to a suite in a big resort hotel. Nearly all condo and villa complexes have pools (some more than one). Like condos, villas range widely in price; a "modest" villa may begin at US$750 per week, while a luxurious one can go for over US$50,000 a week.

You can also rent a lavish private home. You'll spend a lot of money, but you'll be staying in the lap of luxury in a prime beachfront setting, usually with maid service (though you may need to arrange this in advance).

Approach all these rental properties with a certain sense of independence. There may or may not be a front desk with someone to answer your questions, and you will most likely have to plan your own watersports activities and excursions. Always ask when you book.

Make your reservations well in advance. Below, we've listed a few agencies that rent condos, villas, and private homes throughout the Caymans. You can also ask each island's tourist office for suggestions.

• Cayman Villas (177 Owen Roberts Dr., Grand Cayman (tel. 800/235-5888 in the U.S., or 345/945-4144; www.caymanvillas.com), is a booking agency that rents more than 100 private beachfront homes and condos on all three islands. The properties range from cozy studio cottages to large villas that have as many as seven bedrooms. Some properties have the added luxury of a private pool or a maid, and sometimes even a cook. Most of the rentals have kitchenettes, Internet access, a washer and dryer, and kitchenware. Rentals range from budget to deluxe, so most pocketbooks can be accommodated. Prices range from US$150 to US$2,000 per night.

• Villas of Distinction (tel. 800/289-0900 in the U.S.; www.villasofdistinction.com) offers upscale private villas, all with a pool, and one to six bedrooms throughout the Caymans. From town houses to beachfront villas, all their lodgings are beautifully furnished.

• Hideaways Aficionado (tel. 888/843-4433 in the U.S., or 603/430-4433; fax 603/430-4444; www.hideaways.com) is a worldwide rental agency that also publishes Hideaways Collection, a pictorial directory of home rentals throughout the world, including the Cayman Islands. Rentals range from cottages to staffed villas. Hideaways Aficionado can also help you charter yachts and arrange cruises, flights, car rentals, and hotel reservations. Annual membership is US$195.

Online Bookings

In addition to the online travel booking sites Travelocity, Expedia, Orbitz, Priceline, and Hotwire, you can book hotels through Hotels.com, Quikbook (www.quikbook.com), and Travelaxe (www.travelaxe.com).

HotelChatter (www.hotelchatter.com) is a daily webzine offering smart coverage and critiques of hotels worldwide. Go to TripAdvisor.com or HotelShark.com for helpful independent consumer reviews of hotels and resort properties.

It's a good idea to get a confirmation number and make a printout of any online booking transaction.

You can often find some very good scuba-diving packages online, especially from late April to mid-December.

Tips for Families

The Cayman Islands welcome families with kids.

Recommended family travel websites include Family Travel Forum (www.myfamilytravels.com), a comprehensive site that offers customized trip planning; Family Travel Network (www.familytravelnetwork.com), an online magazine providing travel tips; and TravelWithYourKids.com, a comprehensive site written by parents and for parents, which provides sound advice for long-distance and international travel with children.

When to Go

The High Season & the Off Season

Hotels charge their highest prices during the peak winter period, from mid-December to mid-April. If you want to travel over Christmas or in the depths of February, especially around U.S. Presidents' Day weekend, you should make your reservations months in advance.

The off season in the Cayman Islands -- roughly from mid-April to mid-December, although this varies from hotel to hotel -- is one big summer sale, though summer travel to the Cayman Islands has become more popular in recent years. In most cases, hotels, inns, and condos slash 20% to 50% off their winter rates. Dollar for dollar, you'll spend less money renting a summer house or self-sufficient unit in the Cayman Islands than you would on Cape Cod, Fire Island, or Laguna Beach. You just have to be able to tolerate strong sun.

During the off season, beaches are less crowded and you can get good deals, but restaurants are often closed and hotels provide fewer facilities. Some hotels also use the off season to renovate -- so be sure to ask if any work is going on and make sure your room is far away from the noise. If you're traveling alone during the off season, ask about the hotel's occupancy rate -- especially if you want crowds!

Because there are such drastic differences between high-season and off-season rates at most hotels, we've included both for every lodging we review. Incredible savings can be enjoyed if you're willing to wait a few months for fun in the sun.

Weather

The weather during high season from mid-December to mid-April is perfect for hanging out on the beach: It's usually dry, and the cooling trade winds from the northeast moderate typically high temperatures. Sometimes a few days will be windy and cloudy, but these periods of inclement weather usually come and go quickly.

Weather-wise, the best month to visit the Cayman Islands is April, which boasts perfect warm weather before the heat of summer hits in May. In spite of the heat, many Europeans prefer a summer visit. As one visitor who hails from Yorkshire told us, "After a cold winter in the north of England, I've come just for the heat."

Rainy season is from late May until late November. However, it does not rain every day. Often the showers are short (albeit intense) bursts that are followed by clear skies and plenty of sun.

Even though the Cayman Islands are one of the world's leading scuba-diving destinations, divers often avoid the islands in August and September, when tropical storms can churn the waters. However, because the islands have so many dive sites, you can almost always find places to dive, even in August and September.

A Mighty Wind: Hurricanes on the Cayman Islands -- The curse of Cayman weather -- the hurricane season -- lasts officially from June 1 to November 30. But there's no cause for panic: Satellite forecasts give enough warning that safety precautions can be taken if a storm strikes during your visit.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

The spectacular coral reefs that fringe the Cayman Islands are the islands' greatest natural resource. Strict laws prevent cruise ships from dropping anchor in the reefs near George Town and punish any entity caught tampering with underwater wildlife.

Grand Cayman has developed rapidly over the past 30 years, although new laws aim to curb large-scale development. Increasing emphasis is being put on low-rise construction of beachfront condos. The Ritz-Carlton, built in a series of multistory towers, required a special zoning permission and post-Ritz, these will be increasingly difficult to obtain. If you'd like to check into the "greenest" hotel on Grand Cayman, head for Lighthouse Point.

The best eco-tours on Grand Cayman are offered by Geddes Hislop of Earthfoot's Ecotours (www.earthfoot.org). Geddes is a wildlife biologist, and he has a variety of mostly half-day walks and tours, including visits to the Queen Elizabeth II Botanic Park. His most popular jaunt is a nature walk tour, lasting nearly 5 hours and costing from US$50 to US$55 per person or US$40 to US$45 for ages 12 and under. A guided tour of the botanic park costs US$55 or US$45 per child age 12 and under. Customized tours can also be arranged.

All three of the Caymans are ideal for bike riding, and depending on your plans, you may not need to rent a car at all. Cayman Brac and Little Cayman are easily traversed by bike, and many hotels provide them free to their guests.

Each time you take a flight or drive a car, carbon dioxide is released into the atmosphere. You can help neutralize this danger to our planet through "carbon offsetting" -- paying someone to reduce carbon dioxide emissions by the same amount you've augmented them. Carbon offsets can be purchased in the U.S. from companies such as Carbonfund.org and TerraPass (www.terrapass.org), and from Climate Care (www.jpmorganclimatecare.com) in the U.K.

Although one could argue that any vacation that includes an airplane flight can't be truly "green," you can travel internationally and still contribute positively to the environment. Patronize forward-looking hotels, restaurants, and businesses that embrace responsible development practices, helping preserve destinations for the future. An increasing number of sustainable tourism initiatives can help you plan a family trip and leave as small a "footprint" as possible on the places you visit.

General Resources for Green Travel

The following websites provide valuable wide-ranging information on sustainable travel.

• Responsible Travel (www.responsibletravel.com) is a great source of sustainable travel ideas; the site is run by a travel industry spokesperson for ethical tourism.

• Sustainable Travel International (www.sustainabletravelinternational.org) promotes ethical tourism practices and manages an extensive directory of sustainable properties and tour operators around the world.

• Carbonfund.org, TerraPass (www.terrapass.org), and the CoolClimate Network (http://coolclimate.berkeley.edu) provide info on "carbon offsetting," or offsetting the greenhouse gas emitted during flights.

• "Green" Hotels Association (www.greenhotels.com) recommends green-rated member hotels around the world that fulfill the company's stringent environmental requirements. Environmentally Friendly Hotels (www.environmentallyfriendlyhotels.com) offers more green accommodations ratings.

• For information on animal-friendly issues throughout the world, visit Tread Lightly (www.treadlightly.org).

• Volunteer International (www.volunteerinternational.org) has a list of questions to help you determine the nature and intentions of a volunteer program. For general info on volunteer travel, visit www.goabroad.com/volunteer-abroad and www.idealist.org.

Health & Safety

There are no particular health concerns for travelers to the Cayman Islands. It is one of the safest destinations in the Caribbean. The best and most comprehensive health care facilities can be found on Grand Cayman.

General Availability of Health Care

No shots are required prior to travel to the Cayman Islands. While Grand Cayman has extensive medical facilities, Little Cayman and Cayman Brac have only small clinics. If someone becomes seriously ill or injured on the two smaller islands, he or she will be airlifted to George Town. Grand Cayman also has a decompression chamber. All victims of scuba-diving accidents in the Cayman Islands are taken immediately to this facility.

It's easy to get over-the-counter medicine on Grand Cayman, but more difficult on Cayman Brac or Little Cayman. If you'll be visiting the two smaller islands, stock up on whatever medication you think you'll need.

Pack prescription medications and prescriptions in your carry-on luggage. Many people try to slip drugs such as cocaine into the Cayman Islands (or pick them up there). Drugs are often placed into a container for prescription medication after the legal medications have been removed. Customs officials are well aware of this type of smuggling and often check medications against prescriptions if they suspect a passenger is bringing illegal drugs into or out of a country. Carry written prescriptions in generic, not brand-name, form (as local pharmacists may not recognize foreign brand names), and keep all prescription medications in their original labeled vials.

Common Ailments

Sun Exposure -- The Cayman sun can be brutal. Wear sunglasses and a hat, and use sunscreen liberally. Limit your time on the beach during the first day. If you do overexpose yourself, stay out of the sun until you recover. If you experience extended periods of fever, chills, headache, nausea, or dizziness following overexposure to the sun, see a doctor.

Bugs & Bites -- One of the biggest menaces is the "no-see-ums," which appear mainly in the early evening. You can't see these gnats, but you sure can feel them. Mosquitoes are also a nuisance. Window screens often fail to keep these critters out, so carry bug repellent.

What to Do If You Get Sick Away from Home

Finding a good doctor in the Cayman Islands is not a problem, and all of them speak English.

When you travel abroad, you will often have to pay all medical costs upfront and be reimbursed later. Medicare and Medicaid do not provide coverage for medical costs outside the U.S. Before leaving home, find out what medical services your health insurance covers. To protect yourself, consider buying medical travel insurance. Be aware that the Cayman Islands and the U.K. do not have a mutual insurance agreement; though the islands are part of the British Commonwealth, British visitors are not entitled to free treatment under the British health system, and will be charged in the Caymans for any services rendered. For advice for U.K. citizens on healthy travel and medical insurance, see www.fco.gov.uk/en/travel-and-living-abroad.

Very few health insurance plans will pay for medical evacuation back to the U.S. (which can cost US$10,000 and up). A number of companies offer medical evacuation services worldwide. If you're ever hospitalized more than 150 miles from home, MedjetAssist (tel. 800/527-7478; www.medjetassistance.com) will pick you up and fly you to the hospital of your choice virtually anywhere in the world in a medically equipped and staffed aircraft 24 hours day, 7 days a week. Annual memberships are US$225 individual, US$350 family; you can also purchase short-term memberships.

If you suffer from a chronic illness, consult your doctor before your departure. Drugstores and pharmacies are not plentiful, but adequate. They stock most generic drugs; however, if you are on special drugs, it is best to arrive in the Caymans with an adequate supply and not count on local pharmacies. At Cayman hospitals, you will need to be covered by health insurance -- or else be prepared to pay in cash or with a credit card.

Contact the International Association for Medical Assistance to Travellers (IAMAT) (tel. 716/754-4883 or 416/652-0137 in Canada; www.iamat.org) for tips on travel and health concerns and for lists of local doctors. The United States Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (tel. 800/CDC-INFO [232-4636]; www.cdc.gov) provides up-to-date information on health hazards by region or country and offers tips on food safety. Travel Health Online (www.tripprep.com), sponsored by a consortium of travel medicine providers, also offers helpful advice on traveling abroad. You can find listings of reliable medical clinics overseas at the International Society of Travel Medicine (www.istm.org).

Safe Travels

The following government websites offer up-to-date health-related travel advice.

• Australia: www.smartraveller.gov.au
• Canada: www.hc-sc.gc.ca/index_e.html
• U.K.: www.healthy-travel.co.uk
• U.S.: www.fco.gov.uk/en/travel-and-living-abroad

Crime & Safety

Violent crime is rare in the Cayman Islands, but petty thefts, pickpocketing, and purse snatchings occasionally occur. There have been incidents of sexual assault, some reportedly involving the use of so-called "date rape" drugs, such as Rohypnol. To avoid being the victim of a crime, visitors should exercise common sense and take basic precautions, including being aware of their surroundings, not walking alone after dark or in remote areas, and using reasonable caution when offered food or beverages by strangers. Also, gays and lesbians should be aware that discrimination based on sexual orientation remains an issue in the Caymans .

The loss or theft of a passport abroad should be reported immediately to the local police. U.S. citizens may refer to the Department of State's pamphlet, A Safe Trip Abroad, for tips on dealing with this and similar situations. The pamphlet is available by mail from the Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Government Printing Office, Washington, DC 20402; via the Internet at www.gpo.gov/fdsys; or via the Bureau of Consular Affairs home page at www.travel.state.gov.

Safety & Security for Scuba Divers

On average, one American citizen per month drowns or suffers cardiac arrest while snorkeling or scuba diving in the Cayman Islands. These deaths are often attributed to tourists overestimating their abilities given their training and physical fitness, or ignoring preexisting medical conditions potentially exacerbated by snorkeling or diving. Know and respect your limits. Inexperienced or first-time divers should obtain proper training, and may wish to undergo a physical examination before diving. Divers Alert Network (tel. 800/446-2671 or 919/684-4326; www.diversalertnetwork.org) insures scuba divers.

Staying Connected

To call the Cayman Islands from the United States or Canada, dial 1, and then the 345 country code followed by the local number.

To call the Cayman Islands from the U.K., dial 00, and then the 345 country code followed by the number. To call from Australia, dial 0011-1, and then 345 followed by the number. From New Zealand, dial 00-1, and then 345 followed by the number.

From the Cayman Islands, call the U.S. direct by dialing 1, and then the area code and number. Call Canada by dialing 011, and then 1, the area code, and the number. If you're calling the U.K., dial 011, and then 44 and the number. To call Australia, dial 011, and then 61 and the number. To call New Zealand, dial 011, and then 64 and the number.

Call 411 for directory assistance in the Cayman Islands. Dial 0 for internal and external operator assistance. Phone cards and credit cards can be used to make international calls. Nearly everyone has a cellphone, so don't expect to encounter many old-fashioned phone booths.

Note: Numbers beginning with 800 within the Caymans are toll-free, but calling an 800 number in the States from the Caymans is not. In fact, it costs the same as an overseas call.

Major hotels throughout the Cayman Islands are fully capable of routing your phone calls to any destination in the world. Select hotels will directly transfer your call through a switchboard; others allow dialing with a locally purchased calling card, or you can direct-dial from your hotel room. Note that surcharges usually apply for calls dialed directly from within your hotel.

Cellphones

Much of the world's wireless capabilities are defined by GSM (Global System for Mobile Communications) and TDMA (Time Division Multiple Access), the big digital networks that make for easy cross-border cellphone use throughout dozens of countries worldwide. They function with a removable plastic SIM card, encoded with your phone number and account information. If your cellphone is on a GSM or TDMA system, and you have a world-capable multiband phone, you can make and receive calls across populated areas around much of the globe. Just call your wireless operator and ask for "international roaming" to be activated on your account. A prepaid Cayman Islands SIM card with an international cellphone is a convenient and economical calling solution during your visit to the Caymans.

To an increasing degree, residents of the Cayman Islands -- especially the islands' corps of taxi and minivan drivers -- rely on cellphones for all telephone communications. Cellphone reception, thanks to relay stations scattered throughout Grand Cayman, is generally very good, though somewhat less reliable on Little Cayman and Cayman Brac. Temporary visitors to the Cayman Islands can buy or rent a cellphone from providers including Cable & Wireless, Anderson Square Building on Shedden Road, and Galleria Shopping Mall at Seven Mile Beach, George Town (tel. 345/949-7800; www.time4lime.com); Digicel, Cayman Financial Center, 36A Dr. Roy's Dr., Third Floor, George Town (tel. 345/623-3444; www.digicelcayman.com/en/plans); and Lime, Anderson Square Building on Shedden Road, and Galleria Plaza on West Bay Road, George Town (tel. 345/949-8450; www.time4lime.com). Rentals are about CI$5 per day, plus the cost of a calling card; international per-minute rates are around CI35¢ to CI60¢.

An alternative plan is to rent a cellphone before you leave home. In North America, rent one from InTouch USA (tel. 800/872-7626; www.intouchglobal.com) or Roadpost (tel. 888/290-1616 or 905/272-5665; www.roadpost.com). InTouch will also, for free, advise you on whether your existing phone will work overseas; simply call tel. 703/222-7161 between 9am and 4pm EST, or go to www.intouchglobal.com/travel.htm.

If you have Web access while traveling, you might consider a broadband-based telephone service (in technical terms, Voice over Internet protocol, or VoIP) such as Skype (www.skype.com) or Vonage (www.vonage.com), which allows you to make free international calls if you use their services from your laptop or in a cybercafe. Check their websites for details on restrictions and availability.

Internet & E-Mail

Internet cafes are located in the shopping centers along Seven Mile Beach. They include Café del Sol/Team Café, located in the Marquee Shopping Centre and the Aqua World Duty Free Mall (tel. 345/946-2233), and the Thirsty Surfer, located at the Reef Resort in East End (tel. 345/947-2337). Rates at both cafes range from CI$8 for 24-hour unlimited access to CI$50 for 30-day unlimited access. On Cayman Brac, Internet access is available at the West End Post Office and at Brac Reef Beach Resort. On Little Cayman, Wi-Fi is available only at select hotels. For more information, check www.cybercaptive.com and www.cybercafe.com.

More and more hotels, resorts, airports, cafes, and retailers are becoming "hotspots" that offer free high-speed Wi-Fi access or charge a small fee for usage. Most laptops sold today have built-in wireless capability. Public Wi-Fi hotspots in the Cayman Islands are at the Hard Rock Cafe (43 S. Church St., George Town; tel. 345/945-2020) and Owen Roberts International Airport. For more information, go to www.jiwire.com; its Hotspot Finder holds the world's largest directory of public wireless hotspots.

For dial-up access, most business-class hotels offer dataports for laptop modems.

Wherever you go, bring a connection kit of the right power and phone adapters, a spare phone cord, and a spare Ethernet network cable -- or find out whether your hotel supplies them to guests.

Tips for Senior Travelers

Mention that you're a senior when you make your travel reservations in the Cayman Islands. Members of AARP, 601 E St. NW, Washington, DC 20049 (tel. 888/687-2277; www.aarp.org), get discounts on hotels, airfares, and car rentals. AARP offers members a wide range of benefits, including AARP The Magazine and a monthly newsletter. Anyone over 50 can join.

Recommended publications with travel resources and discounts for seniors include the quarterly magazine Travel 50 & Beyond (www.travel50andbeyond.com) and Unbelievably Good Deals and Great Adventures That You Absolutely Can't Get Unless You're Over 50, 2009-2010, 18th Edition (McGraw-Hill), by Joan Rattner Heilman.

Getting There

By Plane

The main gateway to the Cayman Islands is through Grand Cayman. Flights to Grand Cayman arrive at Owen Roberts International Airport (GCM) (tel. 345/949-5252; www.grand-cayman-gcm.airports-guides.com). The airport lies just east of George Town, the capital, and is only a short taxi ride from most of the hotels along Seven Mile Beach. Customs can be aggressive at times, and you'll need to show a firmly booked hotel reservation and an ongoing or return plane ticket.

The Department of Tourism operates an information bureau (tel. 345/949-2635), which is open daily from 11am to 9pm, right at the airport. You'll also find ATMs in the airport, which can dispense money in either Cayman Island or U.S. dollars.

From the United States-- The Cayman Islands are easily accessible from the U.S. Flying time from Miami is 1 hour 20 minutes; from Houston, 2 hours 45 minutes; from Tampa, 1 hour 40 minutes; and from Atlanta, 1 hour 30 minutes. Boston and New York are hubs for flights from the U.S. Northeast. Only a handful of nonstop flights are available from the U.S. Midwest, so most visitors use Miami as their gateway. Residents flying from the West Coast to the Caymans usually have a connecting flight from New York or Miami.

Cayman Airways (tel. 800/422-9626 in the U.S. and Canada, or 345/949-2311; www.caymanairways.com) offers the most frequent service to Grand Cayman, with three flights a day from Miami, five flights a week from Tampa, and three flights a week from New York. Also available is seasonal service from Chicago and Washington, D.C.

Many visitors also fly to Grand Cayman on American Airlines (tel. 800/433-7300; www.aa.com), which offers direct nonstop flights from Miami to Grand Cayman daily. Delta Airlines (tel. 800/221-1212; www.delta.com) flies to Grand Cayman daily from Atlanta and Detroit. US Airways (tel. 800/622-1015; www.usairways.com) offers daily nonstop flights from Charlotte, North Carolina; it also has Saturday flights to George Town from Philadelphia and once-a-week service from Boston during the winter. Continental Airlines (tel. 800/231-0856; www.continental.com) offers daily service between its Houston hub and Grand Cayman. It also flies from Newark, New Jersey, on Sunday, Wednesday, and Friday.

From Canada -- Air Canada (tel. 888/247-2262; www.aircanada.com) flies nonstop from Toronto to George Town every Sunday. The flight takes 4 hours.

From the U.K. -- British Airways (tel. 800/AIRWAYS [247-9297] in the U.S., or 0870/859-9850 in the U.K.; www.britishairways.com) has direct flights from London's Heathrow to Grand Cayman on Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday, with return flights on the same days. The plane touches down briefly at Nassau in the Bahamas. Total flight time is 10 hours. British Airways also flies twice daily from Heathrow to Miami, where continuing flights into George Town can be booked on Cayman Airways.

Getting into Town from the Airport -- Plenty of taxis are available at Owen Roberts International Airport. The government sets taxi fares, which apply to one to three passengers sharing a ride. Each additional person beyond a group of three pays 25% of the fare. Typical prices (subject to change) are as follows: US$30 from the airport to the southern end of Seven Mile Beach; US$30 from the airport to the northern end of Seven Mile Beach; US$69 from the airport to the East End; and US$72 from the airport to Rum Point on the north shore.

To protect taxi drivers and their livelihood, the government doesn't allow buses between town and the airport.

Many car rental agencies operate kiosks in the airport. It's best to reserve a car before you leave home.

By Cruise Ship

Here's a brief rundown of some of the major cruise lines that serve the Caribbean. For more detailed information, pick up a copy of Frommer's Caribbean Cruises & Ports of Call.

Booking a Cruise -- If you have a favorite travel agency, then by all means, leave the details to the tried-and-true specialists. Many agents will propose a package deal that includes airfare to your port of embarkation. It's possible to purchase your air ticket on your own and book your cruise ticket separately, but in most cases you'll save big bucks by purchasing the fares as a package.

You're also likely to save money -- sometimes lots of money -- by contacting a specialist who focuses on cruise bookings. He or she will be able to match you with a cruise line whose style suits you, and to steer you toward any special sales or promotions.

Here are some travel agencies to consider: Cruises Inc. (tel. 888/282-1249 or 800/854-0500; www.cruiseinc.com); CruisesOnly (tel. 800/278-4737; www.cruisesonly.com); the Cruise Company (tel. 800/289-5505 or 402/339-6800; www.thecruisecompany.com); Kelly Cruises (tel. 800/837-7447 or 630/990-1111; www.kellycruises.com); Hartford Holidays Travel (tel. 800/828-4813 or 516/746-6670; www.hartfordholidays.com); and Mann Travel and Cruises (tel. 800/849-2028; www.manntravels.com). Cruise lines don't profit if their megaships don't fill up to near peak capacity, so price wars happen frequently. The companies listed above are tuned in to last-minute sales resulting from price wars.

You're likely to sail to the Caymans from Miami, which has become the cruise capital of the world. Other departure ports in Florida include Port Everglades (at Fort Lauderdale), Port Canaveral, and Tampa.

Cruise Lines

• Carnival Cruise Lines (tel. 888/CARNIVAL [2276-4825]; www.carnival.com): Offering affordable vacations on some of the biggest and most vividly decorated ships afloat, Carnival is the brashest and most successful mass-market cruise line in the world. More than 17 of its vessels depart for the Caribbean from Miami, Tampa, New Orleans, Port Canaveral, and San Juan, and some of them specialize in 7-day or longer tours that feature stopovers at selected ports throughout the eastern, western, and southern Caribbean, including Grand Cayman. The cruises are a good value and feature nonstop activities, plus lots of brightly colored drinks. Passengers tend to be young at heart, ready to party, and keyed up for nonstop, round-the-clock fun. While it's one of the best lines to choose if you're single, Carnival's ships certainly aren't overrun by singles -- families (who appreciate the well-run children's programs) and couples are definitely in the majority. The average onboard age is a relatively youthful 42. Note: Guests are required to be 21 years old (on embarkation day) to travel alone. Those under the age of 21 must be accompanied in the same stateroom by a parent or guardian 25 or older. The exceptions to this rule are a documented married minor couple or pair of legal domestic partners/same-sex union.

• Celebrity Cruises (tel. 800/647-2251 or 316/554-5961; www.celebritycruises.com): Celebrity maintains stylish, medium-to-large ships with cruises that last between 7 and 15 nights and visit ports such as Key West, San Juan, Grand Cayman, St. Thomas, Ocho Rios (Jamaica), Antigua, and Cozumel (Mexico), to name a few. The ships themselves are works of art -- gorgeously designed and featuring clean lines and modern materials -- and the onboard atmosphere is classy without being at all stuffy. Accommodations are roomy and well equipped, cuisine is the most refined of any of its competitors, and service is impeccable. The ships also feature beautiful spas. Plus, cruises are competitively priced (though you should watch out for the pricey extras). Clients choose Celebrity because it offers a well-balanced cruise, with lots of activities and a glamorous, exciting atmosphere that's both refined (think champagne and cozy lounges) and fun (think "dress your husband up in women's clothes" contests). Most passengers are couples in their mid-30s and up, with decent numbers of honeymooners and couples celebrating anniversaries, as well as families with children in summer and during the holidays.

• Costa Cruises (tel. 800/462-6782; www.costacruises.com): Costa sails the 1,358-passenger Costa Magica and the 2,112-passenger Costa Mediterranea on western and eastern Caribbean cruises on alternate weeks, departing from Fort Lauderdale. Ports of call on the eastern Caribbean itineraries include stopovers in San Juan, St. Thomas, and Nassau. Itineraries through the western Caribbean include stopovers at Grand Cayman, Ocho Rios or Montego Bay (Jamaica), Key West, and Cozumel (Mexico). There's an Italian flavor and lots of Italian design onboard here and an atmosphere of relaxed indulgence. The food is above average. Costa attracts passengers of all ages who want lots of action and who deliberately avoid all-American megaships like those of Carnival. In the Caribbean, Costa appeals both to retirees and to young couples, though there are more passengers over 50 than under. Typically you won't see more than 40 or 50 kids on any one cruise except during holidays such as Christmas and spring break. While about 80% to 90% of passengers are from North America, there's usually a healthy percentage from Europe and South America as well.

• Holland America Line (tel. 877/932-4259; www.hollandamerica.com): Holland America offers the most Old World-style cruise experience of the mainstream lines, aboard a fleet of respectably hefty and good-looking ships. The cruise line provides solid value, with few jolts or surprises, and attracts a solid, well-grounded clientele of primarily older travelers (so late-night revelers and serious partyers might want to book cruises on other lines, such as Carnival). The 7-day and 10- to 14-day cruises stop at deepwater mainstream ports throughout the Caribbean, including Key West, Grand Cayman, St. Martin, St. Lucia, Curaçao, Barbados, and St. Thomas. Although younger faces are starting to pepper the mix in greater numbers, most HAL passengers still tend to be low-key, fairly sedentary, 55-plus North American couples. Only about 30 or 40 people per cruise will be traveling solo.

Getting into Town from the Cruise Ship Terminal -- Cruise ships anchor off George Town and then ferry passengers to the terminals along Harbour Drive, which is in the heart of the shopping and sightseeing district. The waters are often choppy here, so anticipate a rough ride. The Grand Cayman tourist office dispenses information from a little kiosk at the pier when cruise ships arrive. Taxis line up to meet arriving passengers. If you need to call home, there's a phone center accepting credit cards nearby along Shedden Road.

Calendar of Events

For an exhaustive catalog of events beyond those listed here, check http://events.frommers.com, where you'll find a searchable, up-to-the-minute roster of what's happening in cities all over the world.

January

Art@Government House. This excellent annual event, featuring displays of various art forms by local and resident artists, takes place on the front lawn of Government House. The day is full of entertainment, food, and local arts and crafts. Children can create their own unique works of art in the Kids Corner. Contact the National Gallery at tel. 345/945-8111. Last Saturday in January.

Taste of Cayman. This event, taking place on Grand Cayman, is the "eatfest" of the islands, showcasing a sampling of different cuisines from more than 40 restaurants. Live entertainment, games for kids, and tasty cooking competitions are also part of the fun. Contact the Cayman Islands Tourism Association at tel. 345/949-8522; www.tasteofcayman.org. Last Saturday in January.

February

Little Cayman Mardi Gras Festival. Everybody on this small island turns out for this festive event. Parade participants show up from Grand Cayman and Cayman Brac. The parade begins in the morning at Head O'Bay and continues to the airport. Contact Gladys Howard at tel. 345/948-1010. Saturday before Ash Wednesday.

Cayman Islands Jazz Fest. Jazz, classical concerts, educational workshops, and art exhibitions spring up across Grand Cayman, Cayman Brac, and Little Cayman in a multitude of venues. Visit www.caymanartsfestival.com for dates and details. Mid-February.

March

The Cayman Islands Orchid Show. This annual orchid show takes place at the Queen Elizabeth II Botanic Park from 9am to 5pm. Stop by the park to view the exquisite displays of orchids in bloom. The Orchid Society also hosts a special orchid talk and demonstration. Contact Queen Elizabeth II Botanic Park (tel. 345/947-9462; www.botanic-park.ky). Early March.

April

Easter Regatta. The Cayman Islands Sailing Club sponsors this annual event off Grand Cayman. The race attracts many boaters, who show up in catamarans ranging from 6 to 24m (20-79 ft.). Highlights include a race to the Banks, a dinghy regatta, and a sail around the island to North Sound. Contact tel. 345/947-7913 or go to www.sailing.ky for dates and specific information. Staged right before Easter.

Cayfest (The National Festival of the Arts). This 2-week event celebrates and showcases the art and culture of the Cayman Islands. The expo opens at Seven Mile Beach with a reenactment of a traditional boat launch. In George Town, you'll find open-air events with local bands, arts and crafts, native cooking, and other demonstrations of local talent, such as culinary and song competitions. For more information, contact tel. 345/949-5477. Mid-April.

Cayman Islands Million Dollar Run. Launched in 2003 on Grand Cayman, this is a show of power and speed on the water, attracting powerboat aficionados and fun seekers from around the world. The hottest, fastest, and most exotic boats gather for this race, with captains competing for US$10,000 in cash and prizes. For more information, contact tel. 345/949-8423 or visit www.mdr.ky. Third week of April.

May

Annual Batabano Carnival. This Mardi Gras-like event in George Town features popular carnival music and live soca (a type of calypso music with elements of soul, often with lyrics on topical or humorous subjects) and calypso bands. The event is enhanced by concession stands with Caymanian and Caribbean cuisine and delicacies. Call tel. 345/916-1740 or visit www.caymancarnival.com for more information. Early May.

June

Cayman Islands International Aviation Week. This annual air show, off Grand Cayman, includes aerial feats, displays, safety seminars, and a "fly-in" to Cayman Brac. It's sponsored by Cayman Caravan in Hilton Head, South Carolina. Third week of June.

Queen's Birthday. To honor the British heritage of the Cayman Islands, the Queen's birthday is celebrated every year in George Town on Grand Cayman. The streets of the capital are filled with a full military dress parade, complete with a 21-gun salute. You can attend an open house and garden reception at Government House. Dates vary; the event is not always on the Queen's actual birthday. Contact the Cayman Islands Tourism Association at tel. 345/949-8522 or visit www.cita.ky for dates and details.

November

Cayman Islands Pirates Week. This is a national festival in which cutlass-bearing pirates and sassy wenches storm George Town, capture the governor, throng the streets, and stage a costume parade. The celebration, which is held throughout the Caymans, pays tribute to the nation's past and its cultural heritage. For the exact dates, contact the Pirates Week Festival Administration (tel. 345/949-5078; www.piratesweekfestival.com). Early November.

International Scuba Diving Hall of Fame. Some of the leading scuba divers in the world show up for this annual ceremony at the Harquail Theatre on Grand Cayman. Entertainment at the event includes audiovisual presentations of scuba-diving feats, live music by local bands, and a food-and-cocktail reception. Tickets are available at the tourist office. For more information, contact tel. 345/949-8522 or click on www.scubahalloffame.com. Early November.

Remembrance Day. This is the Cayman Islands' national day of mourning and remembrance for the military heroes lost during World Wars I and II, and for all sailors and mariners lost at sea during the long maritime history of the Cayman Islands. During this national holiday, all schools, banks, and businesses are closed. In a public ceremony, wreaths are laid on two war monuments near the corner of Fort and North Church streets in downtown George Town, on Grand Cayman. Solemn music is broadcast on the radio and churches hold special ceremonies and Masses. Second Monday in November.

Escorted & Package Tours

Before you start your search for the lowest airfare, you may want to consider booking your flight as part of a travel package. Package tours are not the same thing as escorted tours. Package tours are simply a way to buy the airfare, accommodations, and other elements of your trip (such as car rentals, airport transfers, and sometimes even activities) at the same time and often at discounted prices. In most cases, a package to the Cayman Islands will include airfare, hotel, and transportation to and from the airport -- and it'll often cost you less than the hotel alone if you booked it yourself. Packages are sold in bulk to tour operators, who resell them to the public at a cost that usually undercuts standard rates. A package deal might not be for you if you want to stay in a more intimate inn or guesthouse, but if you like resorts, read on.

Many land-and-sea packages include meals, and you might find yourself locked into eating in your hotel dining room every night if your meals are prepaid. If you're seeking a more varied dining experience, avoid the AP (American Plan), which means full board, and opt for the MAP (Modified American Plan), which means breakfast and either lunch or dinner at your hotel.

One good source of package deals is the airlines themselves. Most major airlines offer air/land packages, including American Airlines Vacations (tel. 800/321-2121; www.aavacations.com), Delta Vacations (tel. 800/654-6559; www.deltavacations.com), and Continental Airlines Vacations (tel. 800/301-3800; www.covacations.com). Several big online travel agencies -- Expedia, Travelocity, and Orbitz -- also do a brisk business in packages. If you're unsure about the pedigree of a smaller packager, check with the Better Business Bureau in the city where the company is based, or go to www.bbb.org. If a packager won't tell you where it's based, don't fly with them.

Travel packages are also listed in the travel section of your local Sunday newspaper. Or check ads in national travel magazines such as Arthur Frommer's Budget Travel Magazine, Travel + Leisure, National Geographic Traveler, and Condé Nast Traveller.

The biggest hotel chains and resorts also have package deals. If you already know where you want to stay, call the resort itself and ask if it offers land/air packages.

To save time comparing the prices and value of every package tour, contact TourScan Inc. (tel. 800/962-2080 or 203/655-8091; www.tourscan.com). Every season, the company computerizes the contents of travel brochures that contain about 10,000 different vacations at 1,600 hotels in the Caribbean, and selects the best value vacation at each hotel and condo.

Ask Before You Go

Before you invest in a package deal or an escorted tour:

• Always ask about the cancellation policy. Can you get your money back? Is a deposit required?
• Ask about the accommodations choices and prices for each. Then look up the hotels' reviews and check their rates online for your specific dates of travel. Also find out what types of rooms are offered.
• For escorted tours, request a complete schedule.
• For escorted tours, ask about the size and demographics of the group.
• For escorted tours, discuss what is included in the price (transportation, meals, tips, airport transfers, and so forth).
• Finally, look for hidden expenses. Ask whether airport departure fees and taxes, for example, are included in the total cost -- they rarely are.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Like most islands in the Caribbean, the Cayman Islands should do more to welcome vacationers with disabilities. If you have a disability, we'd recommend that you confine your visit to Grand Cayman and not venture to the remote islands of Cayman Brac or Little Cayman. Your best bet is to check into one of the major resorts along Seven Mile Beach, which are far more accessible than the smaller lodgings on the island. It is always advisable to call a hotel and discuss your individual needs before booking a stay there.

Organizations that offer a vast range of resources and assistance to travelers with disabilities include MossRehab (tel. 800/CALL-MOSS [2255-6677]; www.mossresourcenet.org), the American Foundation for the Blind (AFB) (tel. 800/232-5463 or 212/502-7600; www.afb.org), and Society for Accessible Travel & Hospitality (SATH) (tel. 212/447-7284; www.sath.org). Air Ambulance Card (tel. 877/424-7633 or 205/297-0060; www.airambulancecard.com) is now partnered with SATH and allows you to preselect top-notch hospitals in case of an emergency.

Access-Able Travel Source (tel. 303/232-2979; www.access-able.com) offers a comprehensive database of travel agents from around the world with experience in accessible travel; destination-specific access information; and links to such resources as service animals, equipment rentals, and access guides.

Many travel agencies offer customized tours and itineraries for travelers with disabilities. Among them are Flying Wheels Travel (tel. 507/451-5005; www.flyingwheelstravel.com) and Accessible Journeys (tel. 800/846-4537 or 610/521-0339; www.disabilitytravel.com).

Flying with Disability (www.flying-with-disability.org) is a comprehensive information source on airplane travel. Avis Rent a Car (tel. 800/331-1212 in the U.S.; www.avis.com) has an "Avis Access" program that offers services for customers with special travel needs. These include specially outfitted vehicles with swivel seats, spinner knobs, and hand controls; mobility scooter rentals; and accessible bus service. Be sure to reserve well in advance.

Also check out the quarterly magazine Emerging Horizons (www.emerginghorizons.com), available by subscription online (US$16.95 a year in the U.S.; US$21.95 outside the U.S.).

The "Accessible Travel" link at Mobility-Advisor.com offers a variety of travel resources to individuals with disabilities.

British travelers should contact Tourism For All (tel. 0845/124-9971 in the U.K. only; www.tourismforall.org.uk) for a wide range of travel information and resources for the elderly and individuals with disabilities.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

Most of the gay and lesbian community regards the Cayman Islands as gay-hostile as opposed to gay-friendly. None of the islands in the Caribbean are completely gay-friendly, even more liberal destinations like Puerto Rico and St. Croix. But the government of the Cayman Islands has been particularly vocal and unapologetic in expressing its anti-gay attitudes.

In 1998 the Cayman Islands government notoriously turned away Norwegian Cruise Lines Leeward, which was carrying 900 gay passengers. The tourism directors at George Town stated at the time: "We cannot count on this group to uphold the standards of appropriate behavior expected of visitors to the Cayman Islands." The decision drew massive protest in America, with many groups, even travel agents, discouraging travel to the Cayman Islands or calling for a complete boycott of the Cayman Islands.

Although the government officially sanctioned the ban of the Leeward, such intolerance is often not endorsed by individual hotel owners, who have told us privately that they welcome gay and lesbian patronage. Nonetheless, the official attitude doesn't make for a happy vacation, and displays of same-sex affection are severely frowned upon in Cayman Islands society. There are no gay bars or clubs and the local gay and lesbian community congregates privately, within individual homes. As a gay or lesbian traveler, you have to make a personal choice whether you want to spend your vacation dollars in the Cayman Islands, or whether you would prefer to vacation in a friendlier and more tolerant climate.

The International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA) (tel. 800/448-8550 or 954/630-1637; www.iglta.org) is the trade association for the gay and lesbian travel industry and offers an online directory of gay- and lesbian-friendly travel businesses; go to their website and click on "Members."

Many agencies offer tours and travel itineraries specifically for gay and lesbian travelers. Among them are Now, Voyager (tel. 800/255-6951; www.nowvoyager.com) and Olivia Cruises & Resorts (tel. 800/631-6277; www.olivia.com).

The Canadian website GayTraveler (www.travelgaycanada.com) offers ideas and advice for gay travel all over the world.

The following travel guides are available at many bookstores, or you can order them from any online bookseller: Spartacus International Gay Guide, 36th Edition (Bruno Gmünder Verlag; www.spartacusworld.com/gayguide) and the Damron guides (www.damron.com), with separate, annual books for gay men and lesbians.

Money

The Cayman Islands dollar is the official currency of the Cayman Islands, although U.S. dollars are readily accepted everywhere. Although some international banks abbreviate it as KYD, the country's currency is usually identified within the Cayman Islands as CI$.

The Cayman Islands Dollar & the U.S. Dollar: At the time of this writing, CI$1 = US$1.22. Inversely stated, US$1 is worth approximately CI82¢.

The Cayman Islands Dollar & the British Pound: At the time of this writing, CI$1 = 74p. Inversely stated, £1 is worth approximately CI$1.34.

The Cayman Islands Dollar & the Canadian Dollar: At the time of this writing, CI$1 = C$1.19. Inversely stated, C$1 is worth approximately CI83¢.

The Cayman Islands Dollar & the Euro: At the time of this writing, CI$1 = €0.85. Inversely stated, €1 is worth approximately CI$1.17.

The Cayman Islands Dollar & the Australian Dollar: At the time of this writing, CI$1 = A$1.15. Inversely stated, A$1 is worth approximately CI87¢.

The Cayman Islands Dollar & the New Zealand Dollar: At the time of this writing, CI$1 = NZ$1.50. Inversely stated, NZ$1 is worth approximately CI66¢.

Frommer's lists exact prices in the local currency; however, hotel rates are quoted in US$ in this guide. The currency conversions quoted above were correct at press time. However, rates fluctuate, so before departing, consult a currency exchange website such as www.oanda.com or www.xe.com to check up-to-the-minute rates. Although the rate between the CI$ and the US$ is permanently fixed as part of an international banking agreement, the ratios between the CI$ and other currencies fluctuate, based on frequently changing financial and political factors.

Warning: Be alert about which currency is being quoted at any given time. Hotels tend to quote their rates in U.S. dollars, while restaurants, nightclubs, and gift shops tend to quote their prices in Cayman Islands dollars. We do the same when quoting prices in this guide. Misunderstanding the currency quoted for any given transaction can be embarrassing and expensive.

It's always advisable to bring money in a variety of forms when traveling: a mix of cash, credit cards, and traveler's checks. You should also exchange enough cash to cover airport incidentals, tipping, and transportation to your hotel before you leave home, or withdraw money upon arrival at an airport ATM.

In many international destinations, ATMs offer the best exchange rates. Avoid exchanging money at commercial exchange bureaus and hotels, which often have the highest transaction fees.

The Cayman Islands are one of the most upmarket destinations in the Caribbean, although prices aren't as sky-high as on the French island of St. Barts or the British-affiliated island of Anguilla. Nevertheless, a frugal traveler will do better in Puerto Rico or the Dominican Republic. The cost of living is about 20% higher in the Cayman Islands than it is in the United States.

Brace yourself for the high prices that resorts charge. There is almost nothing in the budget category. To give you an idea of the price structure, an "inexpensive" room in Grand Cayman is one charging US$150 a night for a double, a price that might buy you a first-class hotel in many parts of America.

Most of the big hotels along Seven Mile Beach don't offer meal plans such as the MAP (the Modified American Plan, which includes breakfast and either lunch or dinner). You'll often have to pay for your food a la carte. Food prices are high since almost everything is imported, but they're not nearly as exorbitant as hotel prices; US$20 to US$35 will get you a main course at a typical restaurant. "Budget" would refer to any restaurant serving main courses for US$18 and under.

ATMs

The easiest and most economical way to get cash away from home is from an ATM (automated teller machine), sometimes referred to as a "cash machine," or a "cashpoint." The Cirrus (tel. 800/424-7787; www.mastercard.com) and PLUS (www.visa.com) networks span the globe. Go to your bank card's website to find ATM locations in the Cayman Islands. Be sure you know your Personal Identification Number (PIN) and your daily withdrawal limit before you depart. It's a good idea to also notify your bank of your travel plans, as international withdrawals may be interpreted as fraud, causing your account to be blocked. Note: Many banks impose a fee every time you use a card at another bank's ATM, and that fee can be higher for international transactions (up to US$5 or more) than for domestic ones (where they're rarely more than US$2). In addition, the bank from which you withdraw cash may charge its own fee. For international withdrawal fees, ask your bank.

Note: Banks that are members of the Global ATM Alliance charge no transaction fees for cash withdrawals at other Alliance member ATMs; these include Bank of America, Scotiabank (Canada, Caribbean, and Mexico), Barclays (U.K. and parts of Africa), Deutsche Bank (Germany, Poland, Spain, and Italy), and BNP Paribas (France).

Although ATMs are hard to come by on Cayman Brac and Little Cayman, banks with ATMs are easy to find in George Town, the capital of Grand Cayman. You can request U.S. dollars or Cayman dollars at most banks and ATMs.

Credit Cards

Credit cards are another safe way to carry money. They also provide a convenient record of all your expenses, and they generally offer relatively good exchange rates. You can withdraw cash advances from your credit cards at banks or ATMs, but high fees make credit card cash advances a pricey way to get cash. Keep in mind that you'll pay interest from the moment of your withdrawal, even if you pay your monthly bills on time. Also, note that many banks now assess a 1% to 3% "transaction fee" on all charges you incur abroad (whether you're using the local currency or your native currency).

Traveler's Checks

You can buy traveler's checks at most banks. They are offered in denominations of US$20, US$50, US$100, US$500, and sometimes US$1,000. Generally, you'll pay a service charge ranging from 1% to 4%.

The most popular traveler's checks are offered by American Express (tel. 800/807-6233 or 800/221-7282 for cardholders -- this number accepts collect calls, offers service in several foreign languages, and exempts Amex gold and platinum cardholders from the 1% fee); Visa (tel. 800/732-1322 -- AAA members can obtain Visa checks for free for checks up to US$1,500 at most AAA offices or by calling tel. 866/339-3378); and MasterCard (tel. 800/223-9920).

Be sure to keep a record of the traveler's checks' serial numbers separate from your checks in case they are stolen or lost. You'll get a refund faster if you know the numbers.

American Express, Thomas Cook, Visa, and MasterCard offer foreign currency traveler's checks, useful if you're traveling to one country or to the Euro zone; they're accepted at locations where dollar checks may not be.

Another option is prepaid traveler's check cards, reloadable cards that work much like debit cards but aren't linked to your checking account. The American Express Travelers Cheque Card, for example, requires a minimum deposit, sets a maximum balance, and has a one-time issuance fee of US$14.95. You can withdraw money from an ATM (for a fee of US$2.50 per transaction, not including bank fees), and the funds can be purchased in dollars, euros, or pounds. If you lose the card, your available funds will be refunded within 24 hours.

What Things Cost in Grand Cayman CI$

Taxi from airport to Seven Mile Beach 12.00

Average bus fare 2.00

Lunch for one at Chicken! Chicken! (inexpensive) 7.00

Dinner for one, without wine, at Grand Old House (expensive) 40.00

Dinner for one, without wine, at Bacchus (moderate) 24.00

Dinner for one, without wine, at Al la Kebab (inexpensive) 8.00

Double room, high season, at Ritz-Carlton (very expensive) 590.00

Studio, high season, at Comfort Suites (moderate) 210.00

Double room, high season, at Eldemire's Guest House (inexpensive) 100.00

Half a liter of beer 5.00

Coca-Cola or Pepsi in a restaurant 2.25

Cup of coffee 2.50

Glass of wine 9.00

Movie ticket 12.50

Islands in Brief

First things first -- just what, and where, are the Cayman Islands? A British Overseas Territory, the Cayman archipelago comprises Grand Cayman (the largest island), Cayman Brac, and Little Cayman (the smallest). Lying 433km (269 miles) south of Havana and about 700km (435 miles) from Mexico's Yucatán Peninsula, it is part of the geographic entity known as the Cayman Ridge, which extends westward from Cuba. The archipelago is actually the top of the underwater Sierra Maestra Range, which runs north into Cuba. The Cayman Trench, the deepest part of the Caribbean Sea with a depth of just over 6.4km (4 miles), separates the Cayman Islands from Jamaica, which lies 290km (180 miles) to the southeast.

Columbus found the Cayman Islands by accident when he was blown off course en route from Panama to Hispaniola in 1503. The Caymans remained, for many decades, a lair for pirates, the home of simple fishermen, and a haven for refugees from the British justice system and, in some cases, runaway slaves. The sandy soil isn't particularly fertile, and as such, the islands never developed the extensive "plantation economy" that became prevalent on neighboring Jamaica and Cuba. The economy was dependent on fishing and trade, and life for the Caymanians was hard, with many residents eking out a living from the sea.

The Cayman Islands were granted independence from Britain in 1962. They remain a staunch member of the British Commonwealth, and pro-Anglo sentiment runs high. In the 1970s, due to their growing role as a financial center and tourist destination, the Cayman Islands began to develop rapidly. Today, Grand Cayman is the condominium capital of the Caribbean and a major center of the offshore financial industry.

It's been said that residents of the Cayman Islands fall into one of three categories: foreign financial services workers (mostly British or Northern Europeans); foreign hotel and restaurant workers (mostly British, Americans, or Slavic Europeans); and local indigenous Caymanians, the descendants of fishermen, pirates, and traders, whose families have been on the islands since the late 1700s, in some cases.

If you're a beach buff, you're in luck here. The sand on the Caymans is sugary white, the surf is typically warm and gentle, and the colors are primarily aqua and turquoise. Grand Cayman is celebrated for its magnificent stretch of white sands, known as Seven Mile Beach, which is lined with hotels and condos. Crowding is rarely a problem on the beach, even with frequent cruise ship arrivals. To satisfy your inner Robinson Crusoe, explore the many hidden coves, beautiful sheltered bays, and expanses of coastline where you can escape the crowds and find your own paradise. The other islands, Cayman Brac and Little Cayman, also have hidden beaches and coves.

When you tire of the beach -- if that's possible -- you'll find some of the world's best scuba diving and snorkeling here, from the plunge at Bloody Bay Wall off Little Cayman to the calm waters and gentle stingrays at Stingray City off Grand Cayman. The variety of dive sites, the clear waters and abundant marine life, and some of the best scuba-diving and snorkeling outfitters in the world make the Caymans a top diving and snorkeling destination.

In addition to little divers' inns, Grand Cayman has some of the grandest resort hotels in the Caribbean, along with dozens of beachfront condos and timeshares along Seven Mile Beach. The drawback is that there are few modest budget inns; the Caymans, for the most part, remain an upmarket destination, doing little to attract the frugal traveler, unlike such Caribbean countries as the Dominican Republic.

The Caymans offer excellent dining. The restaurants on the island are diverse and inventive, and they often boast outstanding chefs. In addition to upscale dining spots, plenty of relatively affordable restaurants serving standard Cayman fare can be found.

While the nightlife scene has improved in recent years, don't expect too much. Sipping tropical punch in a bar remains the preferred form of after-dark activity. If you're a casino devotee, you're out of luck: Gambling is not allowed in the Cayman Islands, so hustle yourself off to Puerto Rico or Aruba.

The islands have one of the highest standards of living in the Caribbean. Most of their residents are hospitable and courteous, and panhandling or aggressive souvenir hawking is rare. If safety is a factor in your choice of a destination for your Caribbean vacation, you can rest assured that the low crime rate in the Cayman Islands is the envy of many small nations in the Caribbean.

The downside? Although the Cayman Islands do have splashes of floral and faunal color, along with rows of royal palms and tall pines swaying in the trade winds, far prettier and more geographically dramatic islands exist in the Caribbean. You won't see any spectacular land vistas, although some of Grand Cayman's beaches, found primarily on the western and northern coasts, rank among the most beautiful in the region.

Most people come to the Cayman Islands to get away from it all in a secluded, safe haven. Many visitors come back after their first sampling, including honeymooners who return to celebrate their anniversaries.

Grand Cayman -- The largest of the three islands and a scuba-diving mecca, Grand Cayman has become one of the Caribbean's hottest tourist destinations in recent years. With more than 500 banks, its capital, George Town, is the offshore banking center of the Caribbean. (You won't have any trouble finding an ATM here!) Retirees are drawn to the peace and tranquillity of this British crown colony, site of a major condominium development. Almost all of the Cayman Islands' 55,000-strong population lives on Grand Cayman. The civil manners of the locals reflect their British heritage.

Cayman Brac -- Short on sandy beaches and the customary Caribbean attractions (beach bars, golf, and a wide selection of restaurants), Cayman Brac may appear to be a poor sibling of Grand Cayman. However, this island has its devotees, mainly adventure seekers and scuba divers who are drawn to its 30 excellent dive sites, snorkeling, bonefishing and deep-sea fishing, and bird-watching. The island lies 143km (89 miles) northeast of Grand Cayman and 7.4km (4 2/3 miles) from Little Cayman, and is 19km (12 miles) long, with an average width of 3.5km (2 1/4 miles). It has a landmass of only 39 sq. km (15 sq. miles), and its highest point, the Bluff, is 42m (138 ft.) above sea level. The island's population is approximately 2,100.

Little Cayman -- The smallest island of the archipelago, the aptly named Little Cayman, 109km (68 miles) northeast of Grand Cayman, is only 16km (10 miles) long with an average width of 1.6km (1 mile). Relatively flat, it has a total landmass of only 16 sq. km (6 1/4 sq. miles), with its highest point 12m (39 ft.) above sea level. About 170 people reside on the island full time, sharing living space with some 20,000 red-footed boobies. Most of Little Cayman's residents aren't Caymanian at all, but long-term expats from the United States and elsewhere, including Great Britain and Canada. Who comes here and why? Little Cayman is hailed as one of the three best scuba-diving areas in the world and is a haven for nature lovers, photographers, and those in search of peace and quiet.

Entry Requirements & Customs

All visitors, including those from the U.S. and the British Commonwealth countries, must have a valid return or ongoing plane ticket. All individuals 12 years of age or older are charged a departure tax of CI$20. This tax is included in the cost of airfare.

Passports

All U.S. citizens traveling to the Cayman Islands must carry a valid passport. Canadian and U.K. citizens are not required to carry a passport but need to provide proof of citizenship, such as an original birth certificate with a raised seal or a notarized copy of a birth certificate, in addition to a valid government-issued photo ID. Citizens of all other nations need a passport for entry into the Cayman Islands. Travelers carrying passports must ensure their passport is valid for up to 6 months after the scheduled date of return to the home country.

Remember, if you are not a U.S. citizen and you are stopping in or traveling through the U.S., or a U.S. territory (including Puerto Rico and the U.S. Virgin Islands) before arriving in the Cayman Islands, you will need a passport and possibly a U.S. visa. For the most up-to-date information on obtaining transit visas for the U.S., consult www.travel.state.gov.

For information on how to obtain a passport, contact the following agencies.

For Residents of Australia -- Contact the Australian Passport Information Service at tel. 131-232, or visit the government website at www.passports.gov.au.

For Residents of Canada -- Contact the central Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca).

For Residents of Ireland -- Contact the Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.foreignaffairs.gov.ie).

For Residents of New Zealand -- Contact the Passports Office (tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100; www.passports.govt.nz).

For Residents of the United Kingdom -- Visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency; or contact the United Kingdom Passport Service (tel. 0870/521-0410; www.homeoffice.gov.uk/agencies-public-bodies/ips).

For Residents of the United States -- To find your regional passport office, either check the U.S. State Department website or call the National Passport Information Center toll-free number (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information.

For a country-by-country listing of passport requirements around the world, go to the "International Travel" Web page of the U.S. State Department at www.travel.state.gov.

Visas

Visas for the Cayman Islands are not required for U.S., Canadian, U.K., or E.U. citizens, nor for citizens of several countries in South America and the Middle East. Consult www.caymanislands.ky, or your nearest Cayman Islands tourist office, for a full list of nationalities that require a visa for entry. To apply for a visa for the Cayman Islands, you must contact your nearest British Consulate or High Commission Office.

Customs

For answers to complicated questions about what you can and cannot bring into the Cayman Islands, contact Cayman Islands Customs (tel. 345/949-4579; www.customs.gov.ky).

What You Can Bring into the Cayman Islands -- Like all Caribbean islands, the Caymans restrict what visitors can bring. There's a ban on raw fruit and vegetables. Also on their official list for exclusion are "firearms of any kind, pole spears, Hawaiian slings, and spear guns." So as not to upset the delicate ecology of these islands, live plants or plant cuttings are also forbidden. Visitors age 18 or over are allowed to bring in -- duty-free -- 4 liters of wine or one case of beer; 1 liter of alcohol; and 200 cigarettes, 25 cigars, or 250 grams of tobacco.

What You Can Take Home from the Cayman Islands -- If you are thinking of bringing home sea turtle products (sunglasses, boxes, jewelry, and other accessories), first consult the website of the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species (www.cites.org). The convention strictly prohibits the importation of sea turtle products into the countries that have signed the agreement. The U.S., U.K., Canada, Australia, and New Zealand are among the 171 countries that adhere to this convention. In addition, U.S. Customs prohibits the transshipment of turtle products through the United States, and any products discovered will be confiscated.

U.S. Citizens: Returning U.S. citizens who have been away for at least 48 hours are allowed to bring back, once every 30 days, US$800 worth of merchandise duty-free. You'll be charged a flat rate of 4% duty on the next US$1,000 worth of purchases. Be sure to have your receipts handy. On mailed gifts, the duty-free limit is US$200. With some exceptions, you cannot bring fresh fruit and vegetables into the United States.

For specifics on what you can bring back, download the invaluable free pamphlet Know Before You Go online at www.cbp.gov (click on "Travel," and then on "Know Before You Go"), or contact U.S. Customs and Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20229 (tel. 877/287-8667; www.cbp.gov), and request the pamphlet.

Canadian Citizens: Canada allows its citizens a C$750 exemption, and you're allowed to bring back duty-free one carton of cigarettes, one can of tobacco, 40 imperial ounces of liquor, and 50 cigars if you meet the minimum age requirements set by the province or territory through which you enter Canada. In addition, you're allowed to mail gifts to Canada valued at less than C$60 each day, provided they're unsolicited and don't contain alcohol or tobacco (write on the package "Unsolicited gift, under C$60 value"). All valuables should be declared on the Y-38 form before departure from Canada, including serial numbers of valuables you already own, such as expensive foreign cameras. Note: The C$750 exemption can be used only once a year and only after an absence of 7 days. For a clear summary of Canadian rules, write for the booklet I Declare, issued by the Canada Border Services Agency (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

U.K. Citizens: U.K. citizens have a Customs allowance of 200 cigarettes, 50 cigars, or 250 grams of smoking tobacco; 4 liters of still table wine; 1 liter of spirits or strong liqueurs (over 22% volume) or 2 liters of fortified wine, sparkling wine, or other liqueurs; 60 cubic centimeters (mL) of perfume; 250 cubic centimeters (mL) of toilet water; and £145 worth of all other goods, including gifts and souvenirs. Individuals 17 and under cannot have the tobacco or alcohol allowance. For more information, contact HM Customs & Excise (tel. 0845/010-9000 in the U.K. or 020/8929-0152; www.hmrc.gov.uk).

Australian Citizens: The duty-free allowance for Australia is A$900 or, for those under 18, A$450. Citizens over age 18 can bring back 250 cigarettes or 250 grams of loose tobacco, and 2.25 liters of alcohol. If you're returning with valuables you already own, such as foreign-made cameras, you should file form B263. A helpful brochure available from Australian consulates or Customs offices is Know Before You Go. For more information, contact the Australian Customs Service (tel. 1300/363-263; www.customs.gov.au).

New Zealand Citizens: The duty-free allowance for New Zealand is NZ$700. Citizens over 17 can bring back 200 cigarettes, 50 cigars, or 250 grams of tobacco (or a combination of all three if their combined weight doesn't exceed 250g); plus 4.5 liters of wine and beer, or 1.125 liters of liquor. New Zealand currency does not carry import or export restrictions. Fill out a certificate of export, listing the valuables you are taking out of the country; that way, you can bring them back without paying duty. Most questions are answered in a free pamphlet available at New Zealand consulates and Customs offices: New Zealand Customs Guide for Travellers, Notice No. 4. For more information, contact New Zealand Customs, The Customhouse, 17-21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington (tel. 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786; www.customs.govt.nz).

Medical Requirements

Unless you're arriving from an area known to be suffering from an epidemic (particularly cholera or yellow fever), inoculations or vaccinations are not required for entry into the Cayman Islands.

Getting Around

This section includes information on getting around Grand Cayman, the largest island in the Cayman Islands.

By Car

Is it necessary to rent a car on Grand Cayman? It depends. If you want to explore the island, you can do so on a far less expensive organized tour. Many visitors prefer to settle into their hotels at Seven Mile Beach for the duration of their visit, perhaps taking one tour or venturing into George Town for a shopping expedition. If you fall into this category, you can easily depend on buses or taxis and save yourself the hassle and expense of a renting a car. However, if you wish to explore the island and don't want to depend on taxis, a rental car is an excellent idea.

The British tradition of driving on the left is followed in the Cayman Islands. A driving permit is mandatory if you rent a car. All car rental companies are required by law to issue this permit and collect the fee of US$7.50. Permits, which are valid for 6 months, are also issued at the George Town Police Station on Elgin Avenue (tel. 345/949-4222).

Car rental prices depend on the season, with the highest rates charged between mid-December and mid-April. In the off season, prices are often reduced by around 35%. Several car rental companies operate on the island, including Avis, which has a kiosk at the Grand Cayman Airport and several at resorts along West Bay Road in George Town (tel. 800/331-1212 in the U.S., or 345/949-2468; www.avis.com); Budget, Grand Cayman Airport (tel. 800/527-0700 in the U.S., or 345/949-5605; www.budgetcayman.com); Cayman Auto Rentals, 135 N. Church St. in George Town (tel. 345/949-1013; www.caymanautorentals.com.ky); Hertz, Grand Cayman Airport (tel. 800/654-3001 in the U.S., or 345/949-2280; www.hertz.com); and Thrifty, Grand Cayman Airport (tel. 800-THRIFTY [847-4389] in the U.S., or 345/949-6640; www.thrifty.com). Avis, Budget, and Cayman Auto Rentals require that reservations be made between 6 and 36 hours before pickup.

The speed limit is 48kmph (30 mph) in built-up areas such as George Town and along Seven Mile Beach, and 64kmph (40 mph) on most other island roads. The highest speed limit on the island is in the East End, where posted speeds go up to 81kmph (50 mph). All gas prices are published at www.planning.gov.ky. Stations charge more or less the same prices, ranging from CI$3 to CI$4 per gallon. The busiest stations include Jose's Service Center across from the airport (tel. 345/949-5500); Savannah Texaco across from Countryside Shopping Village (tel. 345/947-3660); and Texas 7-Mile Beach Star Mart at Seven Mile Beach (tel. 345/949-0175).

Renting a Car 101 -- All the major car rental companies maintain kiosks within walking distance of the airport terminal on Grand Cayman, although some visitors find it easier to take a taxi to their hotel and arrange for their car to be delivered there.

All major companies suggest that car rentals be reserved at least 6 to 36 hours in advance of arrival in the Caymans. In midwinter you should reserve several days in advance because of high demand.

There is definite age "discrimination" in the Cayman Islands. Always check the age requirement with the rental agency before cementing a deal. At Avis you can be 21 years old, but at Hertz, for example, you must be 25. Budget also requires that you be 25 years old and -- get this -- not above 75 years of age.

By Taxi or Limo Bus

Taxicabs, with drivers who are generally informative and friendly, are plentiful at the airport and in front of the cruise ship terminals in George Town. You'll also find them parked in front of the major resorts along Seven Mile Beach. For the most part, drivers are among the most honest you are likely to find in the Caribbean. Shirtless, wet, or damp passengers are frowned upon and may not be taken at all. If you're going out at night, a member of the staff at your resort will often call a taxi for you. Many cabs can be hired for a tour of the island.

The government sets cab prices and regulates the cabbies, so every driver should have the official government rate sheet. Inform the driver where you're heading and agree on the fare before getting into the cab. You may want to ask to see the official rate sheet. If you're paying in U.S. dollars, don't expect the driver to accept denominations larger than US$20. Tipping cabbies between 15% and 20% is the local custom.

The island's major taxi companies include Burtons Taxi Service (tel. 345/926-8294; www.burtons.ky) and A.A. Transportation (tel. 345/949-7222). If you're going to be out late, you'll have to make advance arrangements with either of these companies for pickup. Contact the companies from Monday to Friday between 7am and 11pm or Saturday between 7am and 6pm to arrange late-night pickup times.

McCurley's Tours, North Side (tel. 345/947-9626) provides transport to and from the airport in air-conditioned limo buses. Elite Transportation (tel. 345/949-5963) also arranges airport transfers and personalized sightseeing charters at US$100 per hour. It is the only transport service on the island that provides wheelchair transportation.

By Bus

Buses are mainly used by islanders going to and from work, although visitors who have endless patience and plenty of time to get around also take advantage of them. George Town has had bus service since 1998. A modern terminal adjacent to the Public Library on Edward Street in the center of George Town serves as the dispatch point for buses to all districts. In total, there are 38 minibuses serving eight routes. The most useful line runs from George Town along Seven Mile Beach every 20 minutes during the day. Bus service runs daily from 6am to midnight, with most fares costing CI$1.50 to CI$3.

Buses serve all the main points on the island, including Seven Mile Beach, West Bay, Bodden Town, East End, and North Side. There is no central number to call, since most of the buses are independently operated. For complaints and feedback, call tel. 345/945-5100, though often you'll get only a recording.

By Bike or Scooter

Grand Cayman is one of the best Caribbean islands for biking, as its main arteries are relatively flat, decently paved, wide, and properly signposted. If you stick to the coastal route, you'll experience few difficulties except for unexpected downpours. Side roads, however, can be difficult, especially if you're attempting to venture a bit into the interior. You should avoid the morning and evening rush hours at George Town and along Seven Mile Beach if possible.

In spite of Grand Cayman's reputation for safety, bicycle theft is a problem. If you're going to leave your bike unguarded, perhaps while going for a swim on a beach, make sure that it's secured, just as you would in any urban area.

A reliable independent outfitter for bike and scooter rentals on Grand Cayman is Cayman Cycle Rentals, Coconut Place, West Bay Road (tel. 345/945-4021), which is open daily from 9am to 5pm, offering a fleet of scooters, 10-speed bikes, and mountain bikes. They also provide locks and maps. Some bikes have baskets. Bikes cost US$25 per day, and scooters are US$45 a day. A US$100 deposit is required for a bike and a US$200 deposit is required for a scooter. If you don't have a credit card, a cash deposit of US$500 is required for a bike or a scooter. Insurance (which is optional) costs an additional US$26 per day.

Before arranging a bike rental at Cayman Cycle Rentals, check with your hotel to see if they rent bikes -- many of them do. Cayman Islands law requires that all cyclists and scooter riders wear helmets.