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There are four basic self-catering cottages in the village of Wupperthal (tel. 027/492-3410; R120 per person). Contact Cape Nature Conservation for camping and self-catering information in the Cederberg reserve (tel. 021/659-3500; www.capenature.co.za). At the time of writing, the reserve had been hit by fire and the accommodations were closed; once they're open again, ask for Rietdak, a self-catering cottage 400m (1,312 ft.) from the river. Recommended options in Clanwilliam itself are the gracious Victorian Ndedema Lodge (tel. 027/482-1314; R820-R1,020 double); of the two doubles, no. 2 is the most desirable, with its canopied king-size bed and marvelous bathroom. There are also two family units, one in the main house and a separate cottage set a little way back in the gardens. Wilma, the owner, used to head up the Pretoria tourist office and has been collecting antiques all her life -- many of which now grace the bedrooms and communal areas of the lodge. The rate includes breakfast, and this is a wonderfully peaceful base for exploring the area. Less luxurious but comfortable is Saint Du Barry's Country Lodge (tel./fax 027/482-1537), a relaxed B&B with five simple en-suite units (R880 double). But for all-out luxury, with excellent guided tours of San rock art, you can't beat Bushmans Kloof.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.