Planning a trip to Central America

Escorted & Package Tours

Organizing a hassle-free tour in Central America is a challenge. Transport is the main problem, as the roads and public buses are shabby to say the least. The language barrier is something else to consider when trying to piece together a preplanned itinerary. Often it's best to leave the logistics to the experts. The tour companies below have connections throughout the region, and their staffs can make all of your travel arrangements for you.

• Ladatco Tours (tel. 800/327-6162; www.ladatco.com) has been providing "pampered adventure" since 1966. The company will put together a personalized tour of any country in Central America, including an epic 12-day tour of the region. It also organizes air-only packages.
• Far Horizons (tel. 800/552-4575; www.farhorizon.com) offers cultural and archaeological tours of the region and are the experts if you want to unlock the secrets of the Maya civilization.
• Tara Tours, Inc. (tel. 800/327-0080; www.taratours.com) is one of the most experienced agencies offering package tours to Central America. Tours are personalized based on your interests; some of the specialties here include archaeology and spiritual journeys. In general, the company's package tours are great deals.
• Condor Journeys and Adventures (tel. 01700/841-318; www.condoradventuresinc.com) is a British company that offers tour packages and active vacations throughout Central America. They also arrange fixed-group tours for individual travelers.
• Latin Discover (tel. 506/2290-4017; www.latindiscover.com) is a small, high-end operator based in Costa Rica, though it offers tours of the entire region. The company caters to all types of travelers, including honeymooners and independent self-drivers.
• Tropical Discovery (tel. 305/593-8687; www.tropicaldiscovery.com) conducts private and custom-made tours up and down Central America. You can choose between 1-day volcano hiking or 11-day all-inclusive country tours.
• Journey Latin America (tel. 020/8747-8315; www.journeylatinamerica.co.uk) is a premier British travel agency offering trips to Central America. The company can arrange airfare and tour packages throughout the region.
• Adventure Associates (tel. 02/9389-7466; www.adventureassociates.com) is the best source in Australia for high-end package tours to Central America.

Fast Facts

Drinking Laws -- The legal drinking age throughout Central America is 18 (except in Honduras, where you have to be 21 to drink, but 18 to purchase alcohol), although it is often not enforced. Beer, wine, and liquor are all sold in most supermarkets and small convenience stores from Monday through Saturday. No liquor is sold on Good Friday or Easter Sunday or election days. If you're caught possessing, using, or trafficking drugs anywhere in the region, expect severe penalties, including long jail sentences and large fines.

Electricity -- Central American countries run on 110 volts, 60 Hz, the same as the United States and Canada. However, three-prong grounded outlets are not universally available. It's helpful to bring a three-to-two prong adapter. European and Asian travelers should bring adapters with any accompanying appliances. Be prepared for frequent blackouts, and bring surge protectors.

Internet Access -- Internet access is easy to find in the region, as even the smallest towns usually have at least one Internet center. Access usually costs 50¢ to $1 (25p-50p) per hour. Nearly every hotel has at least one computer with Internet access; some have dataports or Wi-Fi (usually in the hotel lobby or business center).

Insurance -- Medical Insurance -- For travel overseas, most U.S. health plans (including Medicare and Medicaid) do not provide coverage, and the ones that do often require you to pay for services upfront and reimburse you only after you return home.

As a safety net, you may want to buy travel medical insurance, particularly if you're traveling to a remote or high-risk area where emergency evacuation might be necessary. If you require additional medical insurance, try MEDEX Assistance (tel. 410/453-6300; www.medexassist.com) or Travel Assistance International (tel. 800/821-2828; www.travelassistance.com; for general information on services, call the company's Worldwide Assistance Services, Inc., at tel. 800/777-8710.

Canadians should check with their provincial health plan offices or call Health Canada (tel. 866/225-0709; www.hc-sc.gc.ca) to find out the extent of their coverage and what documentation and receipts they must take home in case they are treated overseas.

Travelers from the U.K. should carry their European Health Insurance Card (EHIC), which replaced the E111 form as proof of entitlement to free/reduced cost medical treatment abroad (tel. 0845/606-2030; www.ehic.org.uk). Note, however, that the EHIC only covers "necessary medical treatment," and for repatriation costs, lost money, baggage, or cancellation, travel insurance from a reputable company should always be sought (www.travelinsuranceweb.com).

Travel Insurance -- The cost of travel insurance varies widely, depending on the destination, the cost and length of your trip, your age and health, and the type of trip you're taking, but expect to pay between 5% and 8% of the vacation itself. You can get estimates from various providers through InsureMyTrip.com. Enter your trip cost and dates, your age, and other information, for prices from more than a dozen companies.

U.K. citizens and their families who make more than one trip abroad per year may find an annual travel insurance policy works out cheaper. Check www.moneysupermarket.com, which compares prices across a wide range of providers.

Most big travel agents offer their own insurance and will probably try to sell you their package when you book a holiday. Think before you sign. Britain's Consumers' Association recommends that you insist on seeing the policy and reading the fine print before buying travel insurance. The Association of British Insurers (tel. 020/7600-3333; www.abi.org.uk) gives advice by phone and publishes Holiday Insurance, a free guide to policy provisions and prices. You might also shop around for better deals: Try Columbus Direct (tel. 0870/033-9988; www.columbusdirect.net).

Trip-Cancellation Insurance -- Trip-cancellation insurance will help retrieve your money if you have to back out of a trip or depart early, or if your travel supplier goes bankrupt. Trip cancellation traditionally covers such events as sickness, natural disasters, and State Department advisories. The latest news in trip-cancellation insurance is the availability of expanded hurricane coverage and the "any-reason" cancellation coverage -- which costs more but covers cancellations made for any reason. You won't get back 100% of your prepaid trip cost, but you'll be refunded a substantial portion. TravelSafe (tel. 888/885-7233; www.travelsafe.com) offers both types of coverage. Expedia also offers any-reason cancellation coverage for its air-hotel packages. For details, contact one of the following recommended insurers: Access America (tel. 866/807-3982; www.accessamerica.com); Travel Guard International (tel. 800/826-4919; www.travelguard.com); Travel Insured International (tel. 800/243-3174; www.travelinsured.com); and Travelex Insurance Services (tel. 888/457-4602; www.travelex-insurance.com).

Language -- Spanish is by far the dominant language in the region, except in Belize, where English is spoken. You will also hear English spoken in the Bay Islands in Honduras, the Canal Zone in Panama, and more touristy destinations. The Caribbean coast has its own form of lilting creole that has West Indian roots. A number of indigenous languages have survived, most notably Mayan. See the individual destination chapters throughout this book for more info. It is also advisable to learn some basic Spanish before you travel here; we recommend picking up a copy of the Frommer's Spanish PhraseFinder & Dictionary.

Lost & Found -- Be sure to tell all of your credit card companies the minute you discover your wallet has been lost or stolen and file a report at the nearest police precinct.

If you need emergency cash, you can have money wired to you via Western Union (tel. 800/325-6000; www.westernunion.com).

Mail -- Every country in Central America varies regarding the price, efficiency, and speed of its mail service (known as correo). In general, expect it to take 2 weeks for your letter or postcard to reach home. If you're sending a parcel, a Customs officer may have to inspect it first. Theft is a common problem. Always try and send mail from a main post office and insist the envelope is stamped in front of you. It's wise to send things via registered post, though often the letter can be tracked as far as the border and no more. Private courier services are everywhere but most are expensive.

Newspapers & Magazines -- The Miami Herald (www.miamiherald.com) is probably the most widely available English-language paper about the region. The Costa Rican based Tico Times (www.ticotimes.net) is another. You can find both in most capital city downtown kiosks and airport newsstands.

Passports -- The websites listed below provide downloadable passport applications as well as the current fees for processing applications. For an up-to-date, country-by-country listing of passport requirements around the world, go to the "International Travel" tab of the U.S. State Department at http://travel.state.gov.

For Residents of Australia -- You can pick up an application from your local post office or any branch of Passports Australia, but you must schedule an interview at the passport office to present your application materials. Call the Australian Passport Information Service at tel. 131-232, or visit the government website at www.passports.gov.au.

For Residents of Canada -- Passport applications are available at travel agencies throughout Canada or from the central Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca). Note: Canadian children who travel must have their own passport. However, if you hold a valid Canadian passport issued before December 11, 2001, that bears the name of your child, the passport remains valid for you and your child until it expires.

For Residents of Ireland -- You can apply for a 10-year passport at the Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.irlgov.ie/iveagh). Those 17 and under, or 66 and older, must apply for a 3-year passport. You can also apply at 1A South Mall, Cork (tel. 21/494-4700) or at most main post offices.

For Residents of New Zealand -- You can pick up a passport application at any New Zealand Passports Office or download it from their website. Contact the Passports Office at tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand, or 04/474-8100, or log on to www.passports.govt.nz.

For Residents of the United Kingdom -- To pick up an application for a standard 10-year passport (5-year passport for children 15 and under), visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency or contact the United Kingdom Passport Service at tel. 0870/521-0410, or search its website at www.ukpa.gov.uk.

For Residents of the United States: Whether you're applying in person or by mail, you can download passport applications from the U.S. State Department website at http://travel.state.gov. To find your regional passport office, either check the U.S. State Department website or call the National Passport Information Center toll-free number (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information.

Smoking -- Except for Panama, which recently banned smoking in all restaurants and bars, there are no government smoking bans in Central America at the moment. Private companies do not allow smoking in places like cinemas or long-distance buses, however. The region's better hotels and restaurants have nonsmoking rooms and areas, but in general you can still puff wherever you want.

Taxes -- VAT and Customs duties differ from country to country.

Time -- All of Central America is 6 hours behind Greenwich Mean Time, except Panama, which is 5 hours behind. No countries observe daylight saving time.

Tipping -- Ten percent is the general rule for tipping in restaurants, though tips are sometimes included in bills. In hotels, tip bellhops at least $1 (50p) per bag ($2-$3/£1-£1.50 if you have a lot of luggage) and tip the chamber staff $1 to $2 (50p-£1) per day.

Toilets -- These are known as sanitarios, servicios sanitarios, or baños. They are marked damas (women) and hombres or caballeros (men). Throughout Central America, public restrooms are hard to come by. You will almost never find a public restroom in a city park or downtown area. In the towns and cities, it gets much trickier. One must count on the generosity of some hotel or restaurant. Same goes for most beaches. Most restaurants, and, to a lesser degree, hotels, will let you use their facilities, especially if you buy a soft drink or something. Bus and gas stations often have restrooms, but many of these are pretty grim. Don't flush toilet paper; put it in the trash bin.

Water -- The water in most major cities and tourist destinations throughout Central America is ostensibly safe to drink. However, many travelers react adversely to water in foreign countries, and it is probably best to drink bottled water and avoid ice or food washed with tap water throughout your visit to the region.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Entry Requirements

Due to concerns about parental abductions, there are special requirements for children visiting many foreign countries, including those in Central America. If you are a lone or single parent or a guardian, you must bring a copy of the child's birth certificate and a notarized consent document from the parent(s). For single parents, a decree of sole custody or a parental death certificate will also do. Ask your airline what's required when you book the ticket; also check the State Department's "Foreign Entry Requirements" page at http://travel.state.gov.

Belize -- No visas are required for citizens of the United States, the European community -- including Great Britain and Ireland, South Africa, Australia, or New Zealand. Visitors from these countries do require a current and valid passport. Nationals of certain other countries need a visa or consular permission to enter Belize. For a current list, see the Belize Tourism Board website (www.travelbelize.org) or call the nearest Belize consulate or embassy.

Guatemala -- Citizens of the United States, Canada, Great Britain, all European Union nations, Ireland, Australia, and New Zealand may visit Guatemala for a maximum of 90 days. No visa is necessary, but you must have a valid passport.

Honduras -- Citizens of the United States, Canada, Australia and New Zealand, and the European Union require just a passport to enter Honduras and may stay for up to 90 days. The passport must be valid for at least 6 months after the date of entry and you must pay a $2 (£1) entrance fee to get a tourist card. Residents from Israel, South Africa, and China require $10 (£5) visas.

El Salvador -- Citizens of the United States, Canada, Great Britain, and most European nations may visit El Salvador for a maximum of 90 days. No visa is necessary, but you must have a valid passport, which you should carry with you at all times while you're in the country. There is a $10 (£5) charge on your tourist card upon entry. Citizens of Australia and New Zealand require a visa.

Nicaragua -- Citizens of the United States, Canada, Australia and New Zealand, and the European Union require just a passport to enter Nicaragua and may stay for up to 90 days. The passport must be valid for at least 6 months after the date of entry.

Costa Rica -- Citizens of the United States, Canada, Great Britain, and most European nations may visit Costa Rica for a maximum of 90 days. No visa is necessary, but you must have a valid passport, which you should carry with you at all times while you're in Costa Rica. Citizens of Australia, Ireland, and New Zealand can enter the country without a visa and stay for 30 days, although once in the country, visitors can apply for an extension.

Panama -- Citizens of the United States, Canada, Great Britain, and most European nations may visit Panama for a maximum of 90 days. No visa is necessary, but you must have a valid passport and a $5 (£2.50) tourist card, which can be paid for when entering by land or at the airline counter before your departure.

Coming & Going

In 2006, Guatemala entered into an immigration and border control treaty with El Salvador, Honduras, and Nicaragua. This agreement, which allows free travel between the countries to all nationals of these signatory nations, creates a single 90-day entry visa for foreign visitors. What this means is that if you travel between these four countries, your total stay cannot exceed 90 days without seeking an extension from the immigration authorities in the country you are visiting. If you want to "renew" your Guatemalan visa by exiting the country for 72 hours and then returning on a new tourist visa, it must be to a country not covered in this agreement.

Passport Information

To apply for a passport, residents of the United States can download passport applications from the U.S. State Department website at http://travel.state.gov, or call the National Passport Agency at tel. 202/647-0518.

Canadian residents should visit www.ppt.gc.ca or call tel. 800/567-6868.

British citizens should contact the United Kingdom Passport Service at tel. 0870/521-0410 or on the Web at www.ukpa.gov.uk. Residents of Ireland can call tel. 01/671-1633, or visit www.irlgov.ie/iveagh.

Australian citizens should contact the Australian Passport Information Service at tel. 131-232, or visit www.passports.gov.au. Residents of New Zealand should call the Passports Office at tel. 0800/225-050 or 04/474-8100, or log on to www.passports.govt.nz.

Customs

What You Can Bring Home -- Returning U.S. citizens who have been away for at least 48 hours are allowed to bring back, once every 30 days, $800 worth of merchandise duty-free. You'll pay a flat rate of duty on the next $1,000 worth of purchases. Any dollar amount beyond that is subject to duties at whatever rates apply. On mailed gifts, the duty-free limit is $200. Be sure to keep your receipts or purchases accessible to expedite the declaration process. Note: If you owe duty, you are required to pay on your arrival in the United States -- either by cash, personal check, government or traveler's check, or money order (and, in some locations, a Visa or MasterCard).

With some exceptions, you cannot bring fresh fruits and vegetables into the United States. For specifics on what you can bring back, download the invaluable free pamphlet Know Before You Go online at www.cbp.gov. (Click on "Travel," and then click on "Know Before You Go! Online Brochure.") Or contact the U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20229 (tel. 877/287-8667), and request the pamphlet.

For a clear summary of Canadian rules, write for the booklet I Declare, issued by the Canada Border Services Agency (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca). Canada allows its citizens a C$750 exemption, and you're allowed to bring back duty-free one carton of cigarettes, one can of tobacco, 40 imperial ounces of liquor, and 50 cigars. In addition, you're allowed to mail gifts to Canada valued at less than C$60 a day, provided they're unsolicited and don't contain alcohol or tobacco (write on the package "Unsolicited gift, under $60 value"). All valuables should be declared on the Y-38 form before departure from Canada, including serial numbers of valuables you already own, such as expensive foreign cameras. Note: The $750 exemption can only be used once a year and only after an absence of 7 days.

U.K. citizens returning from a non-E.U. country have a Customs allowance of: 200 cigarettes; 50 cigars; 250 grams of smoking tobacco; 2 liters of still table wine; 1 liter of spirits or strong liqueurs (over 22% volume); 2 liters of fortified wine, sparkling wine or other liqueurs; 60cc (ml) perfume; 250cc (ml) of toilet water; and £145 worth of all other goods, including gifts and souvenirs. People under 17 cannot have the tobacco or alcohol allowance. For more information, contact HM Customs & Excise at tel. 0845/010-9000 (from outside the U.K., 020/8929-0152), or consult their website at www.hmce.gov.uk.

The duty-free allowance in Australia is A$400 or, for those under 18, A$200. Citizens can bring in 250 cigarettes or 250 grams of loose tobacco, and 1.125 milliliters of alcohol. If you're returning with valuables you already own, such as foreign-made cameras, you should file form B263. A helpful brochure available from Australian consulates or Customs offices is Know Before You Go. For more information, call the Australian Customs Service at tel. 1300/363-263, or log on to www.customs.gov.au.

The duty-free allowance for New Zealand is NZ$700. Citizens over 17 can bring in 200 cigarettes, 50 cigars, or 250 grams of tobacco (or a mixture of all three if their combined weight doesn't exceed 250g); plus 4.5 liters of wine and beer, or 1.125 liters of liquor. New Zealand currency does not carry import or export restrictions. Fill out a certificate of export, listing the valuables you are taking out of the country; that way, you can bring them back without paying duty. Most questions are answered in a free pamphlet available at New Zealand consulates and Customs offices: New Zealand Customs Guide for Travellers, Notice no. 4. For more information, contact New Zealand Customs, The Customhouse, 17-21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington (tel. 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786; www.customs.govt.nz).

Tips on Accommodations

Upscale travelers are finally starting to get their due in Central America. It has taken time, but spurred on by the example and standards of several international chains, service and amenities have been improving across-the-board, particularly in the upscale market. The region's strong suit is still its moderately priced hotels, though. In the $60-to-$125 (£30-£63) price range, you'll find comfortable and sometimes outstanding accommodations almost anywhere in the region. However, room size and quality vary quite a bit within this price range, so don't expect the kind of uniformity that you may find at home. Almost all the big hotels have free parking lots, while the smaller, budget hotels have street parking.

If you're budget- or bohemian-minded, you can find quite a few good deals for less than $50 (£25) a double. But beware: Budget-oriented lodgings often feature shared bathrooms and either cold-water showers or showers heated by electrical heat-coil units mounted at the shower head, affectionately known as "suicide showers." If your hotel has one, do not adjust it while the water is running. Note: Air-conditioning is not necessarily a given in many midrange hotels and even some upscale joints. In general, this is not a problem. Cooler nights and a well-placed ceiling fan are often more than enough to keep things pleasant, unless we mention otherwise in the hotel reviews. And although power outages aren't a regular issue (at least in the region's cities) anymore, it is always wise to check out if your hotel has a backup generator in case things get uncomfortable.

Another welcome hotel trend in the area is the renovation and conversion of old homes into small hotels or B&Bs. Central America is still riding the ecotourism wave, and you'll find small nature-oriented ecolodges throughout the region, too. These lodges offer opportunities to see wildlife (including sloths, monkeys, and hundreds of species of birds) and learn about tropical forests. They range from spartan facilities catering primarily to scientific researchers, to luxury accommodations that are among the finest in the country. Keep in mind that although the nightly room rates at these lodges are often quite moderate, prices start to climb when you throw in transportation (often on chartered planes), guided excursions, and meals. Also, just because you can book a reservation at most of these lodges doesn't mean that they're not remote. Be sure to find out how you get to and from the ecolodge, and what tours and services are included in your stay. Then think long and hard about whether you really want to put up with hot, humid weather (cool and wet in the cloud forests); biting insects; rugged transportation; and strenuous hikes to see wildlife.

A couple of uniquely Central American lodging types that you might encounter are the apartotel and the cabina. An apartotel is just what it sounds like: an apartment hotel where you'll get a full kitchen and one or two bedrooms, along with daily maid service. Cabinas are the region's version of cheap vacation lodging. They're very inexpensive and very basic -- often just cinder-block buildings divided into small rooms; some come with kitchenettes. A posada is a small, usually family-run hotel, not unlike a B&B.

Wherever you choose to stay, make sure you keep your doors closed or you might have some unwanted hairy visitors. Pack a flashlight for those midnight runs to the kitchen, bathroom, or beach. If you're visiting an ecolodge or hotel in any area near the jungle, most accommodations have either screened-in windows or provide mosquito nets. The exceptions are the bare-bones beach shacks along the coast and rustic huts in the jungle.

Hotels listed as "expensive" throughout this book often offer much cheaper rates for travelers booking through their websites. Your best bet throughout this region is negotiating directly with the hotels themselves, especially the smaller hotels. However, be aware that response times might be slower than you'd like, and many of the smaller hotels might have some trouble communicating back and forth in English. Rates quoted throughout the book reflect double occupancy, and differences between low- and high-season rates are noted wherever possible. (Note that there are some bargains to be had during the low or rainy season.)

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

Central America is Catholic and conservative. Public displays of same-sex affection are rare and considered somewhat shocking. There are some openly gay or lesbian bars in the bigger cities but most are rather low-key. Gay and lesbian travelers should choose their hotels with care, and be discreet in most public areas and situations.

Many agencies offer tours and travel itineraries to Central America that are specifically targeted at gay and lesbian travelers. Above and Beyond Tours (tel. 800/397-2681; www.abovebeyondtours.com) is the exclusive gay and lesbian tour operator for United Airlines. Now, Voyager (tel. 800/255-6951; www.nowvoyager.com) is a well-known San Francisco-based gay-owned and -operated travel service. Another well known agency is Olivia Cruises & Resorts (tel. 800/631-6277; www.olivia.com).

For more gay and lesbian travel resources visit Frommers.com.

Tips for Student Travelers

Although you won't find any discounts at the national parks, most museums and other attractions around Central America do offer discounts for students. It always pays to ask.

You'd be wise to arm yourself with an International Student Identity Card (ISIC), which offers substantial savings on rail passes, plane tickets, and entrance fees. It also provides you with basic health and life insurance and a 24-hour help line. The card is available for $22 (£11) from STA Travel (tel. 800/781-4040; www.sta.com), the biggest student travel agency in the world. If you're no longer a student but are still under 26, you can get an International Youth Travel Card (IYTC) for the same price from the same people, which entitles you to some discounts (but not on museum admissions).

Travel CUTS (tel. 800/667-2887 or 416/614-2887; www.travelcuts.com) offers similar services for both Canadians and U.S. residents. Irish students should turn to USIT (tel. 01/602-1600; www.usitnow.ie).

Staying Connected

Telephones

Central America's phone systems differ in quality. For example, Costa Rica's system is much more efficient than that in Nicaragua. A local call generally costs just a few pennies per minute. Calls to cellphones or between competing phone companies can be much more expensive. Public phones are very rare, although calling cards are sold in most grocery and general stores. Your hotel is usually your best bet for making calls or sending and receiving faxes, although it may charge exorbitant rates for international faxes.

Your best, cheapest bet for making international calls it to head to any Internet cafe with an international calling option. These cafes have connections to Skype, Net2Phone, or some other VoIP service. International calls made this way can range anywhere from 5¢ (3p) to $1 (50p) per minute -- much cheaper than making direct international calls or using a phone card. If you have your own Skype or similar account, you just need to find an Internet cafe that provides a computer with a headset.

Note that a number of establishments like shops and bars in smaller towns throughout this region do not have working land lines -- these have been listed wherever possible.

Using a Cellphone

The three letters that define much of the world's wireless capabilities are GSM (Global System for Mobiles), a big, seamless network that makes for easy cross-border cellphone use throughout Central America and dozens of other regions worldwide. In the U.S., T-Mobile, AT&T Wireless, and Cingular use this quasi-universal system; in Canada, Microcell and some Rogers customers are GSM, and all Europeans and most Australians use GSM. Unfortunately, per-minute charges on roaming phone calls can be high -- usually $1.50 to $3.50 (75p-£1.25) in this region.

For many, renting a phone is a good idea. (Even world phone owners will have to rent new phones if they're traveling to non-GSM regions, such as Japan or Korea.) While you can rent a phone from any number of overseas sites, including kiosks at airports and at car-rental agencies, we suggest renting the phone before you leave home. North Americans can rent one before leaving home from InTouch USA (tel. 800/872-7626; www.intouchglobal.com) or RoadPost (tel. 888/290-1606 or 905/272-5665; www.roadpost.com). InTouch will also, for free, advise you on whether your existing phone will work overseas; simply call tel. 703/222-7161 between 9am and 4pm EST, or go to http://intouchglobal.com/travel.htm.

Buying a phone can be economically attractive, as many Central American nations have cheap prepaid phone systems. Once you arrive at your destination, stop by a local cellphone shop and get the cheapest package; you'll probably pay less than $100 (£50) for a phone and a starter calling card. Local calls may be as low as 10¢ (5p) per minute, and in many countries incoming calls are free.

Wilderness adventurers, or those heading to less-developed parts of Central America, might consider renting a satellite phone ("satphone"). It's different from a cellphone in that it connects to satellites and works where there's no cellular signal or ground-based tower. You can rent satellite phones from RoadPost . InTouch USA offers a wider range of satphones but at higher rates. Per-minute call charges can be even cheaper than roaming charges with a regular cellphone, but the phone itself is more expensive. As of this writing, satphones were outrageously expensive to buy, so don't even think about it.

Internet Access Away from Home

Without Your Own Computer -- It's hard nowadays to find a major city in Central America that doesn't have a few cybercafes. Although there's no definitive directory for cybercafes -- these are independent businesses, after all -- two places to start looking are at www.cybercaptive.com and www.cybercafe.com.

Aside from formal cybercafes, most youth hostels and hotels nowadays have at least one computer you can get to the Internet on, and many provide at least 15 minutes free.

If you need to access files on your office computer, look into a service called GoToMyPC (www.gotomypc.com). The service provides a Web-based interface for you to access and manipulate a distant PC from anywhere -- even a cybercafe -- provided your "target" PC is on and has an always-on connection to the Internet (such as with Road Runner cable). The service offers top-quality security, but if you're worried about hackers, use your own laptop rather than a cybercafe to access the GoToMyPC system.

Where Are You @? -- The @ symbol is hard to find on a Latin American keyboard. You must keep your finger on the "Alt" key and then press "6" and "4" on the number pad to the right. If you're still unsuccessful and at an Internet cafe, ask the assistant to help you type an arroba.

With Your Own Computer -- More and more hotels, cafes, and retailers in Central American cities are signing on as Wi-Fi (wireless fidelity) "hot spots." Mac owners have their own networking technology: Apple AirPort. iPass providers (www.ipass.com) also give you access to a few hundred wireless hotel lobby setups. To locate other hot spots that provide free wireless networks in cities around the world, go to www.personaltelco.net/index.cgi/WirelessCommunities. For dial-up access, most business-class hotels throughout Central America offer dataports for laptop modems.

Wherever you go, bring a connection kit of the right power and phone adapters, a spare phone cord, and a spare Ethernet network cable -- or find out whether your hotel supplies them to guests.

Special-Interest Vacations

Many outdoor activities can be arranged easily and cheaply upon arrival in Central America. Local operators will have everything you need and can arrange guides and even companions. The quality of tours can vary greatly, and you will find paying a little extra gets you away from the herd. It is strongly advisable to hire knowledgeable guides to get the most out of your visit.

Bird-Watching -- Resplendent quetzals, tropical kingbirds, social flycatchers, and keel-billed toucans are just some of the many marvelous feathered creatures that inhabit the jungles, savannas, and coastal rocks of Central America. You do not have to venture far from your hotel to catch sight of some creature that will have you fumbling for your camera. Some of the best birding spots are Costa Rica's Parque Nacional Corcovado, Nicaragua's Reserva Natural Miraflor, Belize's Crooked Tree Wildlife Sanctuary, and Panama's Volcán Barú.

Hiking -- Where to start? At the foot of a cone-shaped volcano or the lake of a rainforest reserve? Central America has numerous hiking possibilities with its many natural parks, cloud forests, lava fields, and deserted beaches offering a truly breathtaking variety of experiences. If you plan on camping, bring your own gear, as there is little in the way of equipment rental.

Diving & Snorkeling -- The Atlantic coast is where the best diving takes place, particularly around the Bay Islands in Honduras and Caye Caulker in Belize. The Corn Islands are the next big thing in Caribbean coral treasure islands. All the well-known diving zones offer short dives and instructor training. The Pacific is not as popular as the Caribbean because its waters are darker and rougher. You can catch some good dives in places like San Juan del Sur in Nicaragua.

Mountain Biking -- The region's best biking opportunities are in the cooler highland areas, particularly in Guatemala. There are plenty of outfitters in most cities but be careful that you get a road-worthy bike. Expect poor roads and dangerous drivers. This is definitely a pursuit best suited to the dry season (Nov-Apr).

River Rafting -- There is nothing quite like capering down a fast, tropical river. White-water rafting is becoming more and more popular in a region that has plenty of rivers offering Class 2 to Class 4 rafting. Costa Rica is ahead of everybody else when it comes to adventure companies and places. Guatemala and Honduras are slowly becoming known for excellent river floating, too, though.

Kayaking -- A little more civilized than river rafting, kayaking is one of the most enriching experiences in Central America. Whether you are paddling on a crater lake or gliding through a Caribbean swamp, kayaking is a great way to break away from the crowd and creep up on some spectacular wildlife. Sea kayaking is popular in Belize and Costa Rica. Las Isletas in Nicaragua is a popular kayaking spot, as is the Chiriquí River in Panama and the Río Cangrejal in Honduras.

Surfing -- All along the rolling Pacific you'll find big waves and excellent breaks. It was surfers who first put Nicaragua's San Juan del Sur on the map and now El Salvador's Punta Roca is also making itself known among wave riders. Costa Rica has the most established surfers' hangouts, particularly around Playa del Coco and Parque Nacional Santa Rosa. Don't fancy getting your feet wet? Try volcano surfing in León, Nicaragua -- this involves sliding down the side of black volcano on a waxed surfboard. It's strenuous (especially the walk back up), but great fun.

Fishing -- Sportfishing is popular all along the Atlantic coast with lots of marlin, sailfish, tarpon, and snook ready to catch. The Pacific coast also has big-game fishing, with giant dorado and yellowtail tuna. To catch such big fish requires chartering a boat from one of the many outfitters in the region, or you could just do what the locals do and stand in the tide throwing nets at the shoals.

Volunteer Vacations

Here's a list of companies offering educational and volunteer opportunities in Central America.

• AmeriSpan (tel. 800/879-6640 or 215/751-1100; www.amerispan.com) helps students arrange programs that combine language study, travel, and volunteer opportunities throughout Central America.
• Amigos de las Américas (tel. 800/231-7796 or 713/782-5290; www.amigoslink.org) is always looking for volunteers to promote public health, education, and community development in rural areas of Central America.
• Earthwatch Institute (tel. 800/776-0188 or 978/461-0081; www.earthwatch.org) supports sustainable conservation efforts of the earth's natural resources. The organization can always use volunteers for its research teams in Central America.
• Habitat for Humanity International (tel. 229/924-6935, or check the website for local affiliates; www.habitat.org) needs volunteers to help build affordable housing in more than 79 countries in the world, including most countries in Central America.
• Spanish Abroad, Inc. (tel. 888/722-7623 or 602/778-6791; www.spanishabroad.com) organizes intensive language-study programs throughout Central America.
• Building New Hope (tel. 412/421-1625; www.buildingnewhope.org) is a Philadelphia-based organization always looking for volunteers for its numerous projects, especially in Nicaragua.
• i-to-i (tel. 0800/011-1156; www.i-to-i.org) is a company that specializes in "meaningful travel." It has an extensive range of programs all over the region that are particularly targeted toward gap-year students.
• Global Volunteers (tel. 0800/487-1074; www.globalvolunteers.org) organizes volunteer vacations throughout Central America.
• Enforex (tel. 34091/594-3776; www.enforex.com) is a Madrid-based Spanish-language company that organizes study-abroad programs in several Central American countries.

Studying Spanish & Staying with a Local Family

Studying the local language in a foreign country is all the rage, and Central America is the perfect place to study Spanish. In addition to the wonderful surroundings and bargain prices, the Central American accent is one of the cleanest and easiest Spanish accents to master (there's far less difference in regional accents here than in Spain, for instance). Many of the region's major tourist destinations also have Spanish schools, each of which offers the option of living with a local family while you study. Antigua, Guatemala, is particularly known for its Spanish-language classes and homestays, while Estelí in northern Nicaragua is gaining a reputation for such classes. See the boxes on Spanish schools throughout this book for info, or you can prearrange courses and homestays with organizations like AmeriSpan (tel. 0800/879-6640; www.amerispan.com) or Spanish Abroad (tel. 602/778-6791; www.spanishabroad.com). Wherever you decide to study, shop around and carefully examine the options, as some academies are much better organized than others.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Central America is not well equipped for travelers with disabilities. Where elevators exist, they are often tiny. Many city streets are crowded, narrow, and badly maintained and public buses so frenetic that even able-bodied people have scarcely time to board before the driver roars off. The nature of the terrain means climbing in and out of small buses, boats, and planes, and that will be challenging for travelers with disabilities.

Nevertheless, a disability shouldn't stop anyone from traveling. There are more resources out there than ever before. Some of the best include MossRehab (www.mossresourcenet.org), which provides a library of accessible-travel resources online; the Society for Accessible Travel and Hospitality (SATH; tel. 212/447-7284; www.sath.org), which offers a wealth of travel resources for all types of disabilities and informed recommendations on destinations, access guides, travel agents, tour operators, vehicle rentals, and companion services; and the American Foundation for the Blind (tel. 800/232-5463; www.afb.org), which offers a referral resource for the blind or visually impaired that includes information on traveling with Seeing Eye dogs.

For more on organizations that offer resources to travelers with disabilities, go to Frommers.com.

When to Go

Central America remains consistently hot throughout the year, unless you spend a night in the chilly highlands. The rainy season runs from April to early December, but the region still experiences plenty of sunshine during this period. The hurricane season rains down in September to October and can cause flooding everywhere, though it can be particularly bad on the Caribbean coast. The dry season runs from Christmas to Easter and this is the tourist peak season. Easter is a particularly good time to go to Central America as the whole region goes crazy for Semana Santa. Make sure you book ahead, and expect higher hotel prices during this time of year. The low season means fewer people, lower prices, and you can still have glorious weather. A drawback: Some of the region's rugged roads become downright impassable without four-wheel-drive during the rainy season.

Holidays

Latin Americans love a good street party -- even ones devoted to celebrating chaste Catholic saints exude a wild exuberance. Christmas is colorful but Easter is the wildest celebration; during Easter week, some countries virtually shut down as the locals head for the beach for a week (be careful of canceled buses during this period). The best place to celebrate Carnaval is in Panama.

Whatever time of year you go, there's bound to be a small town somewhere celebrating its patron saint with parades, bullfights, and firecrackers. Many of the region's celebrations have a strong indigenous flavor, and employ folklore and traditional dances to honor things like famous battles or thwarted volcanic eruptions. Below are just some highlights.

Getting Around

The most frustrating and stressful part of traveling in Central America is getting from point A to point B. The roads are awful and, though there are plenty of local buses, they are usually decrepit and packed and take forever. It is often wise to spring for a private shuttle, especially if you are traveling with other people. (The international bus companies that travel between Central America countries have much better standards.). Because car-rental agencies don't allow cars to be taken across international borders, it's very difficult to drive from country to country. And there is zero train service.

By Plane

Copa (tel. 800/359-2672; www.copaair.com) offers the most comprehensive plane service in Central America. The Panama-based airline travels between all the capital cities and is a strategic partner with Continental Airlines. Grupo Taca (tel. 800/400-8222; www.taca.com), also has several routes between Central American countries.

Many countries offer "puddle jumper" or propeller-airline flights. These flights are not for the fainthearted, as you literally sit right behind the pilots and it can get a little claustrophobic. As you are checking in, the plane's crew will weigh your bags and then weigh you so as not to overload the aircraft -- you'll want to pack light.

No matter what flight you book, always be sure to reconfirm your flight upon arrival.

By Bus

Though they're a hassle, a bus journey in Central America will likely be one of the lasting memories of your trip. (They're also by far the cheapest way to get around.) Chaotic bus stations, pushy touts, hordes of vendors, and buses packed with people and with livestock will, at the very least, truly allow you to feel that you have left home.

There are different types of buses throughout Central America and each country may use different terms, but they generally fall into the following categories: Local buses, otherwise known as "chicken buses," are the cheapest and slowest; they stop frequently and are generally an old, dilapidated American school bus with colorful clientele that may include small farm animals. Many of these buses are intercity or urban buses that service the satellite towns of a particular city. Expreso buses are like chicken buses, in that they are cheaper and slower, but they do not stop (in theory) between cities. They also run much less frequently than the local buses.

Probably the most inconvenient aspect of local bus travel in Central America is that many towns or cities have no central bus stations. In lieu of that, the "stations" are dirty platforms beside busy markets on the city outskirts, where overly enthusiastic touts literally grab tourists' bags and run them to the next departing bus. Many bus lines therefore do not have ticket offices, so you'll have to buy your ticket on the bus.

International buses run between major cities; these tend to be newer units and more comfortable, although very few are so new or modern as to have bathroom facilities, and they sometimes operate only on weekends and holidays. One advantage is they have their own private terminals so you avoid the chaos of heading to a local market to catch a bus. There are several express bus companies that provide services between Central American countries. Tica Bus (tel. 529/62-626-2880 in Mexico, or 507/314-6385 in Panama; www.ticabus.com) is one of the most reputable and travels from Mexico to Panama. King Quality (tel. 505/228-1454; www.kingqualityca.com) does not go as far north as Mexico but has a reputation for having more comfortable buses. Trans Nica (tel. 505/277-2104 in Nicaragua) and Central Line (tel. 505/254-5431 in Nicaragua) are two other well-known companies.

If traveling with another person, it is often wise to have one person in charge of luggage while the other secures the bus, tickets, and seats. It is also best to hold onto your bags when boarding and store them above your head where you can see them. Another good tip is when arriving at a terminal (if there is one), check out the departing timetable and book your seat (if you can) for when you plan to leave in a few days.

An alternative busing option is microbuses. These are small minivans that depart as soon as they fill up with passengers, which usually means every 20 minutes. Their main advantage is they depart from city-center locations. However, they can get crowded and are not recommended for long journeys, especially when traveling with luggage.

Pickup trucks are a popular form of public transport in rural areas. Bumpy and uncomfortable, they are often covered in canvas to protect the mostly local passengers from the elements.

Shuttle buses are becoming more and more popular, too. These are privately organized tourist transfers between cities, usually operated by a tour agency or hotel. Much more comfortable and faster than local transport, they are also a lot more expensive.

For a sense of distance, to travel south between all capital cities starting at Belize and ending in Panama is approximately 1,400km (868 miles) and would take 4 days of nonstop traveling.

By Taxi

There is no shortage of taxis in all major towns and cities. There are some differences to how they operate, however. For example, in some countries, taxis have no meter. If this is the case, make sure you agree on a price before climbing in and ascertain whether the price is per person or trip. Sharing with strangers is another frequent occurrence, and you may find yourself waiting while the driver stops along the way to pick up more people. This practice should be avoided at night.

In general, taxis are cheap, but keep in mind that the increasing price of gas is making transportation more expensive throughout the region, so prices quoted in this book are subject to change.

Central America's taxis are usually safe to hail from the street without going to special taxi stations. At night you'll need to call a cab from your hotel or restaurant, as many big-city streets are not safe to walk after dark. Never get into an unmarked car claiming to be a taxi.

By Boat

The Caribbean provides many opportunities to travel by small boat. Small, local water taxis travel to the Bay Islands in Honduras, Caye Caulker in Belize, Bocas del Toro in Panama, and the Corn Islands in Nicaragua. In general, the shorter the ride, the smaller and more uncomfortable the boat will be. Some ferries are rusting hulks, such as the one that carries people, livestock, and cars to Isla Ometepe in Nicaragua. Larger boats, like the ones that cross Lago Nicaragua from Granada to San Carlos, may have first- and second-class seating but that's often on a first-come, first-served basis. First-class passengers generally get a sheltered bench below deck, while second-class passengers get seating on the exposed deck above. A hammock is invaluable on such extended voyages.

Note that boats can be particularly crowded around holiday time, especially Easter week, and common safety precautions should be taken during any trip.

By Car

Renting a car in Central America is no idle proposition. The roads are riddled with potholes, most rural intersections are unmarked, and, for some reason, sitting behind the wheel of a car seems to turn peaceful Central Americans into homicidal maniacs. But unless you want to see the country from the window of a bus or pay exorbitant amounts for private transfers, renting a car might be your best option for independent exploring. (If you don't want to put up with any stress on your vacation, it might be worthwhile springing for a driver, though.)

Be forewarned, however: Although rental cars no longer bear special license plates, they are still readily identifiable to thieves and are frequently targeted. (Nothing is ever safe in a car in Central America, although parking in guarded parking lots helps.) Transit police also seem to target tourists; never pay money directly to a police officer who stops you for any traffic violation.

Before driving off with a rental car, be sure that you inspect the exterior and point out to the rental-company representative every tiny scratch, dent, tear, or any other damage. It's a common practice with many Central American car-rental companies to claim that you owe payment for minor dings and dents that the company finds when you return the car. Also, if you get into an accident, be sure that the rental company doesn't try to bill you for a higher amount than the deductible on your rental contract.

These caveats aren't meant to scare you off from driving in Central America. Thousands of tourists rent cars here every year, and the large majority of them encounter no problems. Just keep your wits about you and guard against car theft and you'll do fine. Also keep in mind that four-wheel-drives are particularly useful in the rainy season (May to mid-Nov) and for navigating the bumpy, poorly paved roads year-round.

Among the major international agencies operating in Central America are Alamo, Avis, Budget, Hertz, National, Payless, and Thrifty.

Generally speaking, speed limits in the region are about 60 to 80kmph (37-50 mph) on major roadways and slower on secondary roads. You'll want to stick to this limit, as police speed traps are common, and you don't want a speeding ticket to put a damper on your trip.

It's sometimes cheaper to reserve a car in your home country rather than book when you arrive. If you know you'll be renting a car, it's always wise to shop around and reserve it well in advance for the high season because the rental fleet often can't match demand.

Note: Estimated driving times are listed throughout this book, but bear in mind that it might take longer than estimated to reach your destination during the rainy season or if roads have deteriorated.

The Art of Addresses in Central America

Addresses are an inexact science throughout Central America. Larger cities sometimes list building numbers in addresses but not always, and small-town addresses remain a simple set of directions usually mentioning the street, the neighborhood, a nearby landmark, the city, the state (or "departmento"), and the country. A typical small-town address might read, "4 Avenida Norte, Barrio El Centro across from the cathedral, La Paz, El Salvador." But most of the time, all you'll need is the name of the hotel, restaurant, or attractions to get you where you need to go.

Route numbers are very rarely used on road signs in Central America, although there are frequent signs listing the number of kilometers to various towns or cities. Your best bets for on-road directions are billboards and advertisements for hotels. It's always a good idea to know the names of a few hotels at your destination, just in case your specific hotel hasn't put up any billboards or signs. When taking a taxi, always try and have the address of your destination in Spanish so there are no misunderstandings with the driver.

Health & Safety

Staying Healthy

For general information about health issues in Central America, log on to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention's website at www.cdc.gov/travel. In addition to the recommendations below, the CDC advises visitors to Central America to protect themselves against hepatitis A and B. Consult your doctor for more information about these vaccinations.

Before You Go -- It can be hard to find a doctor you can trust when you're in an unfamiliar place. Try to take proper precautions the week before you depart to avoid falling ill while you're away from home. Amid the last-minute frenzy that often precedes a vacation, make an extra effort to eat and sleep well.

Pack prescription medications in their original labeled containers in your carry-on luggage. Also, bring along copies of your prescriptions in case you lose your pills or run out. Carry written prescriptions in generic form, in case a local pharmacist is unfamiliar with the brand name. If you wear contact lenses, pack an extra pair or your glasses.

If you worry about getting sick away from home, you may want to consider medical travel insurance.

If you suffer from a chronic illness, consult your doctor before your departure. For conditions such as epilepsy, diabetes, or heart problems, wear a MedicAlert identification tag (tel. 888/633-4298; www.medicalert.org), which will immediately alert doctors to your condition and give them access to your records through MedicAlert's 24-hour hot line.

Contact the International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers (IAMAT; tel. 716/754-4883, or 416/652-0137 in Canada; www.iamat.org) for tips on travel and health concerns in the countries you're visiting, and lists of local, English-speaking doctors.

General Availability of Healthcare -- Not surprisingly, most of the region's best hospitals and healthcare centers are in the big cities, but service varies widely. If you do get sick, it's best to contact your home country's consulate or embassy. They all have health departments with staff who can recommend the best English-speaking doctors and hospitals in the area.

Common Diseases & Ailments

Dietary Distress -- It's unfortunate, but many travelers to Central America do suffer from some sort of food or waterborne illness. Most of this is just due to tender northern stomachs coming into contact with slightly more aggressive Latin American intestinal flora. Symptoms vary widely -- from minor cases of diarrhea to debilitating flulike illnesses. To minimize your chances of getting sick, be sure to always drink bottled or boiled water and avoid ice. In high altitudes, you will need to boil water for several minutes longer before it is safe to drink. If you don't have access to bottled water, you can treat it with iodine or chlorine, with iodine being more effective. You can buy water purification tablets at pharmacies and sporting-goods stores. You should also be careful to avoid raw food, especially meats, fruits, and vegetables. If you peel the fruit yourself, you should be fine.

If you do suffer from diarrhea, it's important to keep yourself hydrated. Many pharmacies sell Pedialyte, which is a mild rehydrating solution. Drinking fruit juices or soft drinks (preferably without caffeine) and eating salted crackers are also good remedies. In extreme cases of diarrhea or intestinal discomfort, it's worth taking a stool sample to a lab for analysis. The results will usually pinpoint the amoebic or parasitic culprit, which can then be readily treated with available over-the-counter medicines.

Typhoid Fever is a food- or waterborne illness that occurs throughout Central America (it's caused by salmonella). Long-term travelers should seriously consider taking a typhoid fever vaccine before setting off, as the malaria-like symptoms are very unpleasant.

Hepatitis A is another viral infection acquired through water and food (it can also be picked up off infected people), this time attacking the liver. Usually the symptoms of fever, jaundice, and nausea will pass but it can in some cases cause liver damage. There is an effective vaccine that you can take before the trip.

Tropical Illnesses -- Yellow fever is no longer a problem in Central America. However, if you are traveling from South America or Africa you will require a vaccination certificate to enter Nicaragua, El Salvador, Honduras, Guatemala, and Belize.

Malaria does exist in Central America, especially in rural areas. To protect yourself, wear mosquito repellent with DEET, wear long-sleeved shirts and trousers, and use mosquito nets. You can also take antimalaria drugs before you go; consult your doctor about the pros and cons of such medications. Be sure to ask whether a recommended drug will cause you to be hypersensitive to the sun; it would be a shame to come down here for the beaches and then have to hide under an umbrella the whole time. Because malaria-carrying mosquitoes usually come out at night, you should do as much as possible to avoid being bitten after dark. Also be aware that symptoms such as high fever, chills, and body aches can appear months after your vacation.

Dengue fever, transmitted by an aggressive daytime mosquito, is a risk in tropical environments and densely populated urban areas. As with malaria, the best prevention is to avoid mosquito bites; there is no vaccine available. Dengue is also known as "bone-break fever" because it is usually accompanied by severe body aches. The first infection with dengue fever will make you very sick but should cause no serious damage. However, a second infection with a different strain of the dengue virus can lead to internal hemorrhaging and could be life threatening. If you are unfortunate enough to get it, take some paracetamol and lots of fluids.

Bees, Bugs & Bites -- Snakes, scorpions, and spiders rarely bite without provocation. Keep your eyes open and never walk barefoot. If you're in the jungle or rainforest, be sure to shake your clothes and check your shoes before putting them on. Africanized bees (the notorious "killer bees" of fact and fable) are common in this region, but there is no real danger of being attacked unless you do something silly like stick your hand into a hive. Other than mosquitoes, the most prevalent and annoying biting insect you are likely to encounter, especially along the coast, is sand flies. These tiny biting bugs leave a raised and itchy welt, but otherwise are of no significant danger. They tend to be most active around sunrise and sunset, or on overcast days. Your best protection is to wear light long-sleeved shirts and long pants.

The chances of contracting rabies while traveling in Central America are unlikely but not completely impossible. Most infected animals live in rural areas. If you are bitten by an infected dog or bat, wash the wound and get yourself to a hospital as quickly as possible. There is a prevacation vaccine that requires three injections but you should only get it if you are planning a high-risk activity such as cave exploring. Treatment is effective but must be given promptly.

Riptides -- Many of the Pacific coast beaches have riptides: strong currents that can drag swimmers out to sea. A riptide occurs when water that has been dumped on the shore by strong waves forms a channel back out to open water. These channels have strong currents. If you get caught in a riptide, you can't escape the current by swimming toward shore; it's like trying to swim upstream in a river. To break free of the current, swim parallel to shore and use the energy of the waves to help you get back to the beach. Note: Lifeguards are a rarity in the region.

Safety

Central America's reputation for gang violence and drug running are not entirely unwarranted. However, such a well-publicized (and sensationalized) crime image will contrast strongly with your experience of the region's friendly, peace-loving people. Travelers rarely experience anything more untoward than being pickpocketed or distracted in some way and relieved of a backpack (and even this is rare). Gun crime is usually confined to the shantytowns and poor barrios and rarely effects tourists. In my experience, the more budget-oriented you are, the more vulnerable you are -- a public chicken bus is not as safe as a private shuttle.

Before you depart, check for travel advisories from the U.S. State Department (www.travel.state.gov), the Canadian Department of Foreign Affairs (www.voyage.gc.ca), the U.K. Foreign & Commonwealth Office (www.fco.gov.uk/travel), and the Australian Department of Foreign Affairs (www.dfat.gov.au/consular/advice).

Once you're in the region, keep some common-sense safety advice in mind: Stay alert and be aware of your surroundings; don't walk down dark, deserted streets; and always keep an eye on your personal belongings. Keep your passport and credit cards on your person (but not stuffed in your back pocket). Theft at airports and bus stations is not unheard of, so be sure to put a lock on your luggage. Rental cars generally stick out, and are easily spotted by thieves.

Public intercity buses are also frequent targets of stealthy thieves. Never check your bags into the hold of a bus if you can avoid it. If this can't be avoided, when the bus makes a stop, keep your eye on what leaves the hold. If you put your bags in an overhead rack, be sure you can see the bags at all times.

Calendar of Events

January

Festival of San Sebastián, Masaya, Nicaragua. Drums, whistles, and chanting reverberate around the streets of Masaya during this festival celebrating Saint Sebastian. The town of Diriamba (30km/19 miles southwest of Masaya) is generally recognized as throwing an even more colorful and authentic parade, too, with a lively mix of pagan satire and colonial pomp. Last 2 weeks in January.

Fiesta de Palmares, Costa Rica. One of the best organized of the country's traditional fiestas, the Fiesta de Palmares includes bullfights, a horseback parade (tope), and many concerts, carnival rides, and food booths. First 2 weeks in January.

Feria de las Flores y del Café (Flower and Coffee Festival), Boquete, Panama. This festival is one of the grandest celebrations of flowers in the world, drawing thousands of people to Boquete for 10 days. Expect lush flower displays, food stands, live music, amusement rides, handicrafts booths, and hotel rooms booked far in advance. Mid-January.

February

Carnaval. Panama's most revered holiday is Carnaval, the 4 days that precede Ash Wednesday. The largest celebrations take place in Panama City and the Azuero Peninsula, with parades, floats, drinking, costumes, and music.

International Permanent Festival of Art and Culture. This 15-year-old international arts festival in Suchitoto, El Salvador, was founded by retired but once world-renowned cinematographer Alejandro Cotto and is one of the country's premier arts events, attracting visual and performing artists from around Latin America and the world. Dates vary in February.

March

Baron Bliss Day (Nationwide, Belize). While not officially the nation's patron Saint, Baron Henry Edward Ernest Victor Bliss is certainly Belize's foremost patron and benefactor. The day is marked with nationwide celebrations. The greatest festivities are held in Belize City, which hosts a regatta, as well as horse and footraces. March 9.

National Orchid Show, San José, Costa Rica. Orchid growers throughout the world gather to show their wares, trade tales and secrets, and admire the hundreds of species on display. Contact the Costa Rican Tourist Board (www.visitcostarica.com) for location and dates in 2009 and 2010. Mid-March.

April

Holy Week, throughout Central America. Religious processions are held in cities and towns throughout Central America during Semana Santa, and it is a fantastic time to visit the region. León in Nicaragua throws a particularly colorful event with elaborate sawdust pavement paintings. Antigua in Guatemala is also famous for its celebrations and carpet-lined streets. Holy Week celebrations in Comayagua are one of the biggest festivals in Honduras and feature a week of elaborate processions. Celebrations take place the week before Easter, which sometimes falls in late March rather than April.

Garífuna Day (The Bay islands and north Coast, Honduras): Dancing, drinking, music, and other cultural feats take place to celebrate the arrival of the Garífuna on Roatán in 1797. April 12.

May

Cashew Festival, Crooked Tree Village, Belize. Celebrating the cashew harvest, this weekend festivity features booths selling everything possible under the sun made with this coveted nut, including cashew wine and cashew jelly. Live music and general revelry accompany the celebrations. First weekend in May.

Feria de San Isidro (La Ceiba, Honduras): Hundreds of thousands of revelers flock to this north coast town for the Honduran version of Carnaval. Parades march through the downtown streets, the constant beating of drums is everywhere, and all-night partying occurs on the beaches. The week preceding the third Saturday of May.

June

Festival Corpus Christi, La Villa de Los Santos, Panama. This Panamanian town explodes with activity for a 2-week religious festival known for its elaborate dances led by men in devil masks. Forty days after Easter.

Lobster Festival (Placencia, Belize). You'll get your fill of this tasty crustacean during this extended weekend celebration of the opening of lobster season. In addition to gorging on lobster, you can also take in concerts and street parties and an arts fair. Check www.placencia.com for the latest details. Late June.

Feria Juniana (San Pedro Sula, Honduras). The last week of June sees a series of parades and live events celebrating the city's founding. There is a large agricultural fair that attracts thousands and the week culminates with a huge, colorful parade down the main thoroughfare on June 29.

July

Fiestas Julias, July, Santa Ana. Fiestas Julias, also known as Fiestas Patronal, is a month-long celebration in the city of Santa Ana, El Salvador, featuring parades, music, and carnival rides honoring Santa Ana's patron saint. Throughout July.

Fiesta of the Virgin of the Sea, Puntarenas, Costa Rica. A regatta of colorfully decorated boats carrying a statue of Puntarenas's patron saint marks this festival. A similar event is held at Playa de Coco. Saturday closest to July 16.

La Fiesta Nacional Indígena de Guatemala, Cobán, Guatemala. This is one of Mesoamerica's greatest celebrations of Maya culture. The city of Cobán features a steady stream of street fairs, concerts, parades, and parties. This is celebrated for 2 solid weeks in late July, sometimes extending into early August.

Festival Patronales de La Virgen de Santa Librada, Las Tablas, Panama. This is famous for its Festival de la Pollera on July 22, which showcases the region's most beautiful pollera dresses and elects the "Queen of the Pollera" for that year. July 20 to July 22.

August

Fiesta de la Virgen de la Asunción, Guatemala. The Virgin of the Assumption is the patron saint of Guatemala City and, by extension, the entire nation. There are celebrations, parades, and small fairs across the country, but the largest celebrations are held in Guatemala City. August 15.

Fiesta of the Virgin of Los Angeles, Cartago, Costa Rica. Each year, on August 2, Costa Rica's patron saint is celebrated with a massive pilgrimage to the country's only basilica in the former capital city of Cartago, 24km (15 miles) outside of San José, to the basilica in Cartago.

Costa Maya Festival, San Pedro, Ambergris Caye, Belize. This is perhaps the largest festival in the country. Drawing participants from the neighboring countries of El Salvador, Mexico, Guatemala, and Honduras, this celebration features a steady stream of live concert performances, street parades, beauty pageants, and water shows and activities. Early August.

September

Costa Rica's Independence Day, celebrated all over Costa Rica. One of the most distinctive aspects of this festival is the nighttime marching band parades of children in their school uniforms, who play the national anthem on steel xylophones. September 15.

Festival de la Mejorana, Guararé, Panama. This nationally famous folkloric festival features hundreds of dancers, musicians, and singers coming together for a week of events and serious partying. Last week of September.

Belize Independence Day, celebrated throughout Belize. Patriotic parades and official celebrations are mixed with street parties, beauty pageants, and open-air concerts. September 21.

Fiestas Patronales, Masaya, Nicaragua. The handicrafts capital of Nicaragua finds reason to celebrate year-round. The biggest festival date is September 20, though, with the opening of the Fiestas Patronales, weekend parties in different neighborhoods that carry on until December.

October

Festival del Cristo Negro (Black Christ Festival), Portobelo, Panama. Thousands of pilgrims come to pay penance and perform other acts of devotion at the Iglesia de San Felipe, home to a wooden black Christ effigy that is paraded around town on this day. October 21.

November

Día de los Muertos (All Saints' Day), Guatemala. The most famous celebration in Guatemala is the "drunken horse race" in the mountain town of Todos Santos. Guatemalans also fly giant, colorful kites to communicate with the dead in the village of Santiago Sacatepéquez. November 1.

Garífuna Settlement Day, Belize, Honduras, Guatemala, Nicaragua. Garífunas from across the Caribbean coast of Central America gather to commemorate their arrival from St. Vincent in 1832. Street parades, religious ceremonies, and dance and drumming performances are all part of the celebrations throughout this zone. November 19.

December

Día de la Purísima Concepción, León, Nicaragua. This celebration is known as the Gritería (shouting), a type of religious trick-or-treat. Groups of people walk around, shouting up to households, in order to obtain sweets. The following day is the Día de la Concepción de María, when the whole country goes parade crazy. December 7.

Quema del Diablo (Burning the Devil), Guatemala. Huge bonfires fill the streets throughout the country as trash, tires, old furniture, and effigies of Satan are burned in a symbolic ritual cleansing. December 7.

El Tope and Carnaval, San José, Costa Rica. The streets of downtown belong to horses and their riders in a proud recognition of the country's important agricultural heritage. The next day, those same streets are taken over by carnival floats, marching bands, and street dancers. December 26 and 27.

Boxing Day, Belize. While Christmas Day is predominantly for the family in Belize, Boxing Day is a chance to continue the celebration with friends, neighbors, and strangers. Dances, concerts, horse races, and general festivities are put on around the country. December 26.

Money

High inflation in many Central American countries means the dollar remains strong in the region. El Salvador has scrapped its own currency and made the U.S. dollar its official currency. The dollar is also the official currency in Panama, although it is used in conjunction with the balboa. In other Central American countries, you can expect the local currency to fluctuate while you're there, usually resulting in a better exchange rate for foreigners.

Note that most vendors prefer small bills and exact change. It's almost impossible to find someone who has change for a large bill. Many ATMs give out money in multiples of one or five, so try to request odd denominations of money. For larger sums, try to withdraw in a multiple of 500 instead of 1,000, for instance.

Here's a general idea of what things cost throughout Central America: a taxi from the airport to downtown cities runs $12 to $18 (£6-£9); a double room at a budget hotel with private bathroom, $20 to $50 (£10-£25); a double room at a moderate hotel, $80 to $120 (£40-£60); a double room at an expensive hotel, $150 to $250 (£75-£125); a small bottle of water, 50¢ (25p); a cup of coffee, $1 to $1.50 (50p-75p); admission to most national parks $10 (£5); lunch at a simple restaurant, $3 to $6 (£1.50-£3); and a three-course dinner for one without wine at a fancier restaurant, $15 to $25 (£7.50-£13).

Currency

In most countries in Central America, you can use American dollars without much of a problem. But if you're traveling in rural areas, it's always useful to have the local currency on hand. A list of currencies for all the countries in this guide is below.

Some prices throughout this book, particularly hotel rates, are quoted in U.S. dollars since local currencies can fluctuate, though we also give you prices in British pounds (at a ratio of .50 U.S. dollars to 1 U.K. pound). Note: Because of high inflation and volatile exchange rates, prices quoted here may vary greatly in accuracy.

Belize -- The Belize dollar, abbreviated BZ$, is the official currency of Belize. It is pegged to the U.S. dollar at a ratio of 2 Belize dollars to 1 U.S. dollar, or 4 Belize dollars to the U.K. pound. Both currencies are acceptable at almost any business or establishment around the country. Denominations include 50¢ and $1 coins, while notes come in 2, 5, 10, 20, 50, and 100 denominations.

Guatemala -- The unit of currency in Guatemala is the quetzal. In June 2008, there were approximately 7.4 quetzales to the American dollar, or 14.8 quetzales to the U.K. pound, but because the quetzal does fluctuate, you can expect this rate to change. There are 1 quetzal coins and paper notes in denominations of 1, 5, 10, 20, 50, and 100 quetzales.

El Salvador -- El Salvador uses the U.S. dollar as its national currency. Prices in that chapter are quoted in American and British currency only.

Honduras -- The Honduran unit of currency is called a lempira. It currently hovers at approximately 19 to 1 with the American dollar, and 38 to 1 with the U.K. pound. It comes in paper denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, 100, and 500 lempiras. There are 100 centavos in a lempira and they come in coin forms of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, and 50 centavos.

Nicaragua -- The official Nicaraguan currency is the córdoba (it is sometimes referred to as a peso). It currently rates at approximately 19 to 1 with the American dollar, and 38 to 1 with the U.K. pound. It is made up of 100 centavos. Money is denominated in notes of 10, 20, 50, 100, and 500 córdobas. Coins are made of 1 and 5 córdobas and 50 centavos.

Costa Rica -- The unit of currency in Costa Rica is the colón. In June 2008, there were approximately 520 colones to the American dollar and 1,040 colones to the British pound. Because of this high exchange rate, prices in the Costa Rica chapter are quoted only in American and British currency. The colón is divided into 100 céntimos. Currently, two types of coins are in circulation. The older and larger nickel-alloy coins come in denominations of 10, 25, and 50 céntimos and 1, 2, 5, 10, and 20 colones; and newer, gold-hued 5-, 10-, 25-, 50-, 100-, and 500-colón coins. There are paper notes in denominations of 1,000, 2,000, 5,000, and 10,000 colones.

Panama -- The unit of currency in Panama is the U.S. dollar, but the Panamanian balboa, which is pegged to the dollar at a 1:1 ratio, also circulates in denominations of 5¢, 10¢, 25¢, and 50¢ coins. (U.S. coins are in circulation as well.) Balboa coins are sized similarly to their U.S. counterparts. Prices in the Panama chapter are quoted in American and British currency only.

ATMs

The easiest and best way to get cash throughout Central America is from an ATM (automated teller machine). The Cirrus (tel. 800/424-7787; www.mastercard.com) and PLUS (tel. 800/843-7587; www.visa.com) networks work here; look at the back of your bank card to see which network you're on, then call or check online for ATM locations at your destination. Be sure you know your personal identification number (PIN) and daily withdrawal limit before you depart -- you'll need a four-digit PIN throughout much of this region. Note: Remember that many banks impose a fee every time you use a card at another bank's ATM, and that fee can be higher for international transactions (up to $5/£2.50 or more) than for domestic ones (where they're rarely more than $2/£1). In addition, the bank from which you withdraw cash may charge its own fee. For international withdrawal fees, ask your bank.

You can also use your credit card to receive cash advances at ATMs. Keep in mind that credit card companies protect themselves from theft by limiting maximum withdrawals outside their home country, so call your credit card company before you leave home. And know that you'll pay interest from the moment of your withdrawal, even if you pay your monthly bills on time.

Traveler's Checks

Traveler's checks are something of an anachronism from the days before the ATM made cash accessible at any time. They're also hard to cash outside major Central American cities, and even in those cities, you may still have problems doing so. Your best bet for exchanging traveler's checks is by heading to casas de cambio (money-exchange houses), though they usually change checks for a significant fee. Many banks will not exchange traveler's checks, and those that do often have long lines.

If you do choose to carry traveler's checks, keep a record of their serial numbers separate from your checks in the event that they are stolen or lost. You'll get a refund faster if you know the numbers.

Credit Cards

Credit cards are another safe way to carry money throughout this region. They provide a convenient record of all your expenses, and they generally offer relatively good exchange rates. You can also withdraw cash advances from your credit cards at banks or ATMs, provided you know your PIN. If you don't know yours, call the number on the back of your credit card and ask the bank to send it to you. It usually takes 5 to 7 business days, though some banks will provide the number over the phone if you tell them your mother's maiden name or some other personal information.

Keep in mind that many banks now assess a 1% to 3% "transaction fee" on all charges you incur abroad (whether you're using the local currency or U.S. dollars). But credit cards still may be the smart way to go when you factor in things like exorbitant ATM fees and the higher exchange rates and service fees you'll pay with traveler's checks.

Visa, MasterCard, American Express, and Diners Club are all commonly accepted in Central America.

If Your Wallet Is Lost or Stolen -- Be sure to tell all of your credit card companies the minute you discover your wallet has been lost or stolen, and file a report at the nearest police precinct. Your credit card company or insurer may require a police report number or record of the loss. Most credit card companies have an emergency toll-free number to call if your card is lost or stolen; they may be able to wire you a cash advance immediately or deliver an emergency credit card in a day or two.

Tips for Women Travelers

For lack of better phrasing, Central America is a typically "macho" part of the world. Single women can expect a nearly constant stream of catcalls, hisses, whistles, and car horns, especially in big cities. Women should be careful walking alone at night throughout the country.

For general travel resources for women, go to Frommers.com.

Tips for Senior Travelers

Although it's not common policy in Central America to offer senior discounts, don't be shy about asking for one anyway. You never know. Always carry some kind of identification, such as a driver's license, that shows your date of birth, especially if you've kept your youthful glow.

Members of AARP (formerly known as the American Association of Retired Persons), 601 E St. NW, Washington, DC 20049 (tel. 888/687-2277; www.aarp.org), get discounts on hotels, airfares, and car rentals. AARP offers members a wide range of benefits, including AARP The Magazine and a monthly newsletter. Anyone over 50 can join.

Many reliable agencies and organizations target the 50-plus market. Elderhostel (tel. 800/454-5768; www.elderhostel.org) arranges Costa Rica study programs for those ages 55 and older. ElderTreks (tel. 800/741-7956, or 416/558-5000 outside North America; www.eldertreks.com) offers small-group tours to Costa Rica, restricted to travelers 50 and older.

Frommers.com offers more information and resources on travel for seniors.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

Central America is one of the planet's prime ecotourism destinations. Many of the isolated nature lodges and tour operators around the country are pioneers and dedicated professionals in the ecotourism and sustainable tourism field. Many other hotels, lodges, and tour operators are simply "green-washing," using the terms "eco" and "sustainable" in their promo materials, but doing little real good in their daily operations. Responsible Travel (www.responsibletravel.com) is a great source of sustainable travel ideas with listings on Central America; the site is run by a spokesperson for ethical tourism in the travel industry. Sustainable Travel International (www.sustainabletravelinternational.org) promotes ethical tourism practices, and manages an extensive directory of sustainable properties and tour operators around the region.

Deforestation is the main threat to Central America's fragile ecosystem. Farming has virtually wiped out most of the region's dry tropical rainforests, while logging is a major threat to the cloud forest. Thirty percent of Central America is forest today, which is half of what existed 50 years ago. Such destruction has been devastating to many species, including man himself, in the form of displaced indigenous tribes, and has led to drinking-water shortages, flash flooding, and mud slides.

Fortunately, some countries, particularly Costa Rica, have taken great strides toward protecting the region's rich biodiversity. Thirty years ago, it was difficult to find a protected area anywhere in Costa Rica, but now more than 11% of that country is protected within the national park system. Another 10% to 15% of the land enjoys moderately effective preservation as part of private and public reserves, Indian reserves, and wildlife refuges and corridors. Still, Costa Rica's precious tropical hardwoods continue to be harvested at an alarming rate, often illegally, while other primary forests are clear-cut for short-term agricultural gain. Many experts predict that Costa Rica's unprotected forests will be gone within the early part of this century.

Belize, Guatemala, and Honduras have commendable environmental records, with 40% of those countries protected. Belize has the best environmental policy of these three countries, with 40% of the country protected. Although Honduras still has significant forest cover (41%), it is losing 3% year after year; Guatemala is losing 1.7% a year, with 10% of its land classified as highly degraded and 60% at risk.

El Salvador has the worst environmental record in Central America, with only 2% of its original forest left, while Nicaragua is losing 150,000 hectares (370,500 acres) of forest per year. Fifty-seven percent of Panama is covered in forest but the country is losing 6,900 hectares (1,704 acres) a year.

Though environmental awareness is growing, solving the region's huge environmental problems, including not just deforestation but the effects of overpopulation and industrial pollution, clearly remains an uphill struggle.

Volunteer travel has become increasingly popular among those who want to venture beyond the standard group-tour experience to learn languages, interact with locals, and make a positive difference while on vacation in Central America.

Animal-Rights Issues

For information on animal-friendly issues throughout the world, visit Tread Lightly (www.treadlightly.org). For information about the ethics of swimming with dolphins, visit the Whale and Dolphin Conservation Society (www.wdcs.org).

It's Easy Being Green

Here are a few simple ways you can help conserve fuel and energy when you travel:

• Each time you take a flight or drive a car greenhouse gases release into the atmosphere. You can help neutralize this danger to the planet through "carbon offsetting" -- paying someone to invest your money in programs that reduce your greenhouse gas emissions by the same amount you've added. Before buying carbon offset credits, just make sure that you're using a reputable company, one with a proven program that invests in renewable energy. Reliable carbon offset companies include Carbonfund (www.carbonfund.org), TerraPass (www.terrapass.org), and Carbon Neutral (www.carbonneutral.org).
• Whenever possible, choose nonstop flights; they generally require less fuel than indirect flights that stop and take off again. Try to fly during the day -- some scientists estimate that nighttime flights are twice as harmful to the environment. And pack light -- each 15 pounds of luggage on a 5,000-mile flight adds up to 50 pounds of carbon dioxide emitted.
• Where you stay during your travels can have a major environmental impact. To determine the green credentials of a property, ask about trash disposal and recycling, water conservation, and energy use; also question if sustainable materials were used in the construction of the property. The website www.greenhotels.com recommends green-rated member hotels around the world that fulfill the company's stringent environmental requirements. Also consult www.environmentallyfriendlyhotels.com for more green accommodations ratings.
• At hotels, request that your sheets and towels not be changed daily. (Many hotels already have programs like this in place.) Turn off the lights and air conditioner (or heater) when you leave your room.
• Use public transport where possible -- trains, buses, and even taxis are more energy-efficient forms of transport than driving. Even better is to walk or cycle; you'll produce zero emissions and stay fit and healthy on your travels.
• If renting a car is necessary, ask the rental agent for a hybrid, or rent the most fuel-efficient car available. You'll use less gas and save money at the tank.
• Eat at locally owned and operated restaurants that use produce grown in the area. This contributes to the local economy and cuts down on greenhouse gas emissions by supporting restaurants where the food is not flown or trucked in across long distances.

Getting There

By Plane

Every country in Central America now receives international flights, mostly from the U.S. and Mexico. Below is a quick country-by-country glance.

To Belize

The following carriers offer service to Belize City's Philip S. W. Goldson International Airport (BZE).

From the U.S. -- American Airlines, Grupo Taca (via San Salvador), and US Airways.

The only direct flights from Canada are seasonal winter charters. There are no direct flights to Belize from Europe, Australia, New Zealand, mainland Asia, or Africa.

To Guatemala

Most international flights land at La Aurora International Airport (GUA) in Guatemala City. A few international and regional airlines fly directly into Flores Airport (FRS) near Tikal.

From the U.S. & Mexico -- American Airlines, Delta, Mexicana, United Airlines, US Airways, and Grupo Taca.

There are no direct flights from Europe but it is easy to get a connection from New York or Miami.

To Honduras

The following carriers fly to San Pedro Sula's Ramón Villeda Morales International Airport, Tegucigalpa's Toncontín International Airport, or Roatán International Airport:

From North America -- Air Canada, American, Delta, United, Taca, and Spirit.

From the U.K. & Europe -- There are no direct flights, but Delta and American Airlines connect through the U.S.

From Australia & New Zealand -- There are no direct flights, but connections can be made in North American gateway cities.

To El Salvador

The following carriers fly into San Salvador's Comalapa International Airport:

From North America -- American, Delta, and Taca.

From the U.K., Europe, Australia & New Zealand -- There are no direct overseas flights from the U.K., Australia, or New Zealand. You'll need to fly first into the U.S., with many European flights routing out of Miami and Houston to San Salvador.

To Nicaragua

The following carriers offer service to Managua's Augusto C Sandino International Airport:

From the U.S. -- American Airlines, Delta, United Airlines, Spirit, and Taca.

From Mexico -- Aeroméxico.

From Europe -- Iberia (via Miami).

To Costa Rica

International flights land in San José's Juan Santamaría International Airport (SJO) and to a lesser extent Liberia's Daniel Oduber International Airport (LIR), which has easier access to the beaches of Guanacaste region.

From the U.S. -- Air Canada, American Airlines, Delta, Frontier, Grupo Taca, Mexicana, Spirit Air, and US Airways.

From Europe -- Iberia and Martin Air.

To Panama

The following airlines fly into Tocumen International Airport (PTY) in Panama City:

From the U.S. & Mexico -- American Airlines, Copa, Delta, Mexicana, and Taca.

From the U.K. & Europe -- Iberia (via Costa Rica), American Airlines (via Miami), British Airways (via Miami), and Delta (via Atlanta).

From Australia & New Zealand -- Qantas and Air New Zealand (both via Los Angeles).

By Cruise Ship or Ferry

Luxury cruise liners now sail frequently along the Caribbean and Pacific coast via the Panama Canal. Two reputable companies are Miami-based Seabourn Cruise Line (tel. 800/929-9391; www.seabourn.com) and Californian-based Princess Cruises (tel. 845/075-0031; www.princess.com).

Some key international ferry crossings are between Punta Gorda, Belize, and Puerto Barrios, Guatemala. You can cross into Flores, Guatemala, from Palenque in Mexico. There is a river crossing between San Carlos, Nicaragua, and Los Chiles, Costa Rica.

By Car

It's possible to travel to Central America by car, but it can be difficult, especially for U.S. citizens. After leaving Mexico, the Pan-American Highway (Carretera Panamericana), which is also referred to as the Interamerican Highway, passes through Guatemala, El Salvador, Honduras, Nicaragua, and Costa Rica before reaching Panama. All of these countries can be problematic for travelers for a variety of reasons, including internal violence, crime, corrupt border crossings, and visa formalities. If you do decide to undertake this adventure, take the Gulf Coast route from the border crossing at Brownsville, Texas, because it involves traveling the fewest miles through Mexico. You might also try to find a copy of Driving the Pan-Am Highway to Mexico and Central America, by Audrey and Raymond Pritchard.

Anyone driving into Central American countries needs to show a passport, country or international driver's license, proof of vehicle ownership, such as registration card, and proof of insurance. Cars are normally granted 30-days visitation. Many consulates also offer prevalidation of driver's documents, which can quicken the process at the border.

Tips for Families

"Children not Allowed" is a rare concept in Central America -- family values are very important here, so if you're traveling with your whole family, you can expect locals to welcome you with open arms.

A handful of hotels give discounts for children 11 and under, or allow children under 3 or 4 years old to stay for free. Discounts for children and the cutoff ages vary according to the hotel, but in general, don't assume that your kids can stay in your room for free.

Many hotels also offer rooms equipped with kitchenettes or full kitchen facilities. These can be a real money-saver for those traveling with children. Hotels offering regular, dependable babysitting service are few and far between, however. If you will need babysitting, make sure your hotel offers it before you make your reservation.

Tips for Single Travelers

Many people prefer traveling alone. Unfortunately, the solo traveler is often forced to pay a premium price for the privilege of sleeping alone. On package vacations, single travelers are often hit with a "single supplement" to the base price. To avoid it, you can agree to room with other single travelers on the trip, or you can find a compatible roommate before you go from one of the many roommate locator agencies.

GAP Adventures (tel. 800/708-7761 in North America, or 44/870-999-0144 in the United Kingdom; www.gapadventures.com) is an adventure tour company with a good range of regular and varied tours in Central America. As a policy, they do not charge a single supplement and will try to pair a single traveler with a compatible roommate.