The Village of Ildiri and the Ancient Ruins of Erythrai
Located about a half-hour's drive (17km/11 miles) on the coastal road north from Ilica is Ildiri, which enjoys the shelter of a small bay protected by a series of offshore islands. Not surprisingly, the locals, who number only about 350, make their livings on fishing boats as well as in artichoke and olive fields (and until 15 years ago, in tobacco fields, too). A number of fish restaurants line the small dock as well as the road leading to the village. On the road at the edge of town are a couple of covered shacks called restaurants -- the characteristic covered, stone terraces overlook the artichoke and olive fields toward the sea. Stop here for some gözleme (a crepe filled with cheese, spinach, or both) and an ayran (a buttermilk-like salty yogurt drink), or for some fish only recently pulled out of the water.
On the edge of Ildiri is the ancient Greek city of Erythrai, whose remains are still mostly hidden beneath the fields of artichokes cultivated by the local villagers. Sporadic excavations conducted since 1964 have revealed a theater, dating to the 3rd century B.C. and destroyed in an earthquake in A.D. 100. There are some visible signs of a city plan, including the 6th-century-B.C. Temple of Heracles (unexcavated), a 5th-century-B.C. sacrificial altar, and 2nd-century-B.C. luxury villas and mosaic stone pavement. A climb to the top of the theater and up to the summit of the hill will reveal an old basilica-style church, as well as some of the loveliest views in the region.
Located about a half-hour's drive (17km/11 miles) on the coastal road north from Ilica is Ildiri, which enjoys the shelter of a small bay protected by a series of offshore islands. Not surprisingly, the locals, who number only about 350, make their livings on fishing boats as well as in artichoke and olive fields (and until 15 years ago, in tobacco fields, too). A number of fish restaurants line the small dock as well as the road leading to the village. On the road at the edge of town are a couple of covered shacks called restaurants -- the characteristic covered, stone terraces overlook the artichoke and olive fields toward the sea. Stop here for some gözleme (a crepe filled with cheese, spinach, or both) and an ayran (a buttermilk-like salty yogurt drink), or for some fish only recently pulled out of the water.
On the edge of Ildiri is the ancient Greek city of Erythrai, whose remains are still mostly hidden beneath the fields of artichokes cultivated by the local villagers. Sporadic excavations conducted since 1964 have revealed a theater, dating to the 3rd century B.C. and destroyed in an earthquake in A.D. 100. There are some visible signs of a city plan, including the 6th-century-B.C. Temple of Heracles (unexcavated), a 5th-century-B.C. sacrificial altar, and 2nd-century-B.C. luxury villas and mosaic stone pavement. A climb to the top of the theater and up to the summit of the hill will reveal an old basilica-style church, as well as some of the loveliest views in the region.
Details
Bookstore
Available as paperback
and as e-book.
