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Pisces

This small chef-owned spot has an unpretentious homey feel, even though there is sophisticated cooking going on in the kitchen. The meal begins with homemade rosemary focaccia for dipping in garlicky white bean spread. With a name like Pisces, you might as well stick to the fish. Start with calamari from Point Judith, Rhode Island, which is sautéed with garlic and Kalamata olives. For a substantial but special meal, try the Mediterranean fisherman’s stew, which has cod and all manner of shellfish in a spicy lobster broth.