How good is the food here? The restaurant does a brisk trade selling prepackaged spices and recipes for make-it-yourself dishes (so that local home cooks can pass off the grub as their own). Since you likely won't have a kitchen while you're in town, get a table in this nondescript-looking garden restaurant, one of the city's longest-running eateries. Their khao soi, filled with egg noodles and crisp-fried chicken bits and sprinkled with dried fried noodles, is spicy and coconut-sweet at the same time. Chiang Mai sausages are served sliced over steamed rice; puffed-up fried pork rinds are the traditional cholesterol lover's accompaniment. Dishes are all made to order in an open kitchen, so you can point to things that interest you, including the myriad fried insects and frogs'; legs cooked with ginger, for which this place is famous.