Da Stefano's is in a narrow lane off Tha Pae Road; it's a lively and popular place with an extensive catalog of northern Italian cuisine, from steaks to excellent pizzas and pastas. Portions are big, the wine list is deep, and there are good daily set menus and specials. The boss is often on hand to advise, if you can't make up your mind; and it's very popular, so reservations are a good idea. You'll meet lots of young backpackers splashing out after long treks around the northern hills here.