In the Florentine Chianti

Also in Greve, the Enoteca Bar Gallo Nero, Via C. Battisti 9 (tel. 055-853-734), is a good grill and pasta joint (order the affettati misti appetizer) popular with families -- and reasonably priced at 8€ to 12€ for primi, 8€ to 20€ for secondi. It's open Friday through Wednesday from noon to 10pm (closed Jan 6-31).

Dining with Dario -- Panzano's famous opera-singing butcher, Dario Cecchini, brings his own meat, love of conviviality (large, shared tables are a feature), and Dantesque sense of humor to three celebrated (m-)eateries in the village -- any of which is worth the trip here on its own. Solociccia opened in 2007 right across from his butcher shop, at Via XX Luglio 11. As the name ("only flesh") suggests, this is not a place for vegetarians: Among the six meat courses, look out for ramarino in culo, "rosemary up the you-know-what," which are little peach-shaped balls of tartare impaled with a sprig of rosemary. The menu is fixed (30€) and sitting times are 7 and 9pm Thursday through Saturday and 1pm Sunday.

Above the shop itself, the Officina della Bistecca is Dario's multicourse homage to all-things-cow, including the sacred bistecca alla Fiorentina, of course. The fixed menu costs 50€, including house wine, and sittings are Tuesday, Friday, and Saturday at 8pm and Sunday at 1pm. The same space at lunchtimes Monday through Saturday hosts Dario+, offering fast food, Tuscan-style. For 10€, McDonald's-starved children (and adults) can feast on a fresh, breadcrumbed beef burger, oven-cooked "fries," sides of pickles and shredded red onion, and two great relishes. The atmosphere is communal and fun, but the quality of the food is as serious as his two "grown'up" restaurants. For information and to reserve (advisable at Solociccia and the Officina), call tel. 055-852-727 (for Soliciccia) or tel. 055-852-176 (for the Officina), or see

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.