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didn’t realize the sushi I’d eaten for years was mediocre until I ate at Kai Zan, and all else paled in comparison. This small spot south of Logan Square is just far enough off the beaten path that you can get a same-day reservation to savor the melt-in-your-mouth sushi bites, most of which cost less than $9. Each is created and plated with precision akin to one of the city’s much finer dining establishments, and served in an array of tiny dishes. In favorites like the Angry Crab—spicy crab wrapped with tuna—flavor and texture come together so intricately you don’t want the chewing to end. The makimono rolls start out with the basics—spicy tuna and cucumber, salmon and avocado, and so forth—and a fun build-your-own option allows you to add those decadent extras, like tempura flakes or cream cheese, for $1 each. Make a reservation and nab a tiny booth made for two, or grab a seat at the sushi bar and watch the chefs work their magic. Service is good, but expect a disaffected air of cooler-than-thou to fall upon your table. Oh, and it’s BYO, so what you save on booze you can spend on more plates.