Carnivores, pescatarians, and beer lovers will feel right at home here. Modeled after a European beer hall, Publican is a big, open room, with a series of long, wooden, communal tables interspersed with individual tables. Decor is sparse, which makes the so-serious-they’re-funny pig portraits on the walls stand out even more, especially considering the pig-heavy menu offerings, such as aged ham, spicy pork rinds, pork belly, and porchetta. Non-swine options include an impressive selection of oysters and fish, and the veggies, particularly the Brussels sprouts with burrata, Parmesan, lemon, and sesame seeds, are so good they almost outshine the proteins. With a farm-to-table focus, many of the shared plates come from the Midwest, like the La Quercia Rossa aged ham from Norfolk, Iowa, and shrimp farmed in Hope, Indiana. But Publican also brings in specialties from afar, like salt-crusted loup de mer from the Aegean Sea. Although there is a solid wine list, beer is clearly the beverage of choice here, with an emphasis on German, Belgian, and Austrian brews. Service is good if a bit pretentious. Say a French word wrong and prepare to be corrected. Reservations strongly recommended.