Full disclosure: I dream of Topo Gigio’s fried calamari, so much so that after gorging on fried squid and Topo Gigio’s soft, warm bread, served with cheese and olive oil, I usually take most of my entree—which is a huge portion—home. This old-world Italian joint is reliably filled with a well-heeled and energized Old Town crowd, who come here for the pastas, like the popular rigatoni al filo di fumo (rigatoni in tomato sauce with pancetta, fresh mozzarella, and fresh basil, topped with pecorino cheese) and traditional proteins, like veal saltimbocca and Lake Superior whitefish al limone, plus reasonable wine prices. Despite the perennially busy speed, servers are attentive and down to earth.