Planning a trip to China

Visitor Information

China National Tourist Offices (www.cnto.org):

In the United States -- New York office: 370 Lexington Ave., Suite 912, Empire State Building, New York, NY 10017 (tel. 212/760-8218; fax 212/760-8809; ny@cnto.gov.cn). California office: 600 North Brand Blvd., Suite 910, Glendale, CA 91203 (tel. 818/545-7507; fax 818/545-7506; la@cnto.gov.cn).

In Canada -- 480 University Ave., Suite 8 06, Toronto, ON M5G 1V2 (tel. 416/599-6636; fax 416/599-6382; www.tourismchina-ca.com).

In the U.K. -- 71 Warwick Rd., London SW5 9HB (tel. 020/7373-0888; fax 020/7373-9989; london@cnta.gov.cn).

In Australia -- Level 11, 234 George St., Sydney, NSW 2000 (tel. 02/9252-9838; fax 02/9252-2728; sydney@cnta.gov.cn).

Hong Kong Tourism Board (www.discoverhongkong.com):

In the U.S. -- New York office: 115 E. 54th St., 2nd floor, New York, NY 10022-4512 (tel. 212/421-3382; fax 212/421-8428; nycwwo@hktb.com). California office: 10940 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 2050, Los Angeles, CA 90024-3915 (tel. 310/208-4582; fax 310/208-2398; jeffs@hktb.com).

In Canada -- 3rd floor, 9 Temperance St., Toronto, ON M5H 1Y6 (tel. 416/366-2389; fax 416/366-1098; yyzwwo@hktb.com).

In the U.K. -- 6 Grafton St., London W1S 4EQ (tel. 020/7533-7100; fax 020/7533-7111; lonwwo@hktb.com).

In Australia -- Level 4, Hong Kong House, 80 Druitt St., Sydney, NSW 2000 (tel. 02/9283-3083; fax 02/9283-3383; sydwwo@hktb.com).

Macau Government Tourism Office (www.macautourism.gov.mo):

In the U.S. -- 501 Fifth Ave., Suite 1101, New York, NY 10017 (tel. 646/277-0690; fax 646/366-8170; macau@myriadmarketing.com).

In the U.K. -- 11 Parkshot House, 5 Kew Rd., Richmond, Surrey, TW9 2PR (tel. 44/20-8334-8325; fax 44/20-8334-8100; macau@humewhitehead.co.uk).

In Australia -- Level 17, Town Hall House, 456 Kent St., Sydney, NSW 2000 (tel. 02/9264-1488; fax 02/9267-7717; macau@worldtradetravel.com).

In New Zealand -- Level 5, Ballantyne House, 101 Customs St. E., P.O. Box 3779, Auckland (tel. 09/308-5206; fax 09/308-5207; macau@aviationandtourism.co.nz).

Planning Your Trip

The mainland travel industry as yet provides no truly reliable official sources of information either within China or via its overseas operations. The branches of the China National Tourism Administration in foreign countries are called China National Tourist Offices. Nominally nonprofit, they used to be little more than agents for the state-owned China International Travel Service (CITS), but they now offer links to a variety of operators. However, don't expect them to be accurate about even the most basic visa or customs regulations, or to update their websites, which sometimes give conflicting information and can't even get the names of tour operators right.

Hong Kong (Hong Kong Tourism Board; www.discoverhongkong.com) and Macau (Macau Government Tourism Office; www.macautourism.gov.mo) have their own tourism agencies, which are vastly more professional. The Hong Kong Tourism Board is a source of endless quantities of free literature, maps, and helpful advice, and its website is comprehensive, accurate, and up-to-date. The Macau Government Tourism Office is the same on a smaller scale.

Finding Maps

Even though few are bilingual, purchasing city maps as you go is a good idea. These are available at bus and railway stations for ¥5 or less. Get your hotel staff to circle the characters of your hotel and the main sights you plan to see, and note which is which. Now you can jump in a taxi at any point, show the driver the characters for where you want to go, and keep an eye on the route he takes.The tourist boards of Hong Kong and Macau are liberal with bilingual and trilingual free maps.

Outside of China good quality maps are more difficult to find. One good source is International Travel Maps in Vancouver, BC, Canada (tel. 604/879-3621; www.itmb.com). Their China map has a scale of 1:3,800,000, costs around $13, and comes highly recommended. Characters are in both English and Chinese and everything is large and clearly marked. It is very detailed, and even small towns are shown.

I also like the maps produced by Nelles Verlag (www.nelles-verlag.de), which come in a set of four (northeast, north, central, and southern China), are English only and have a scale of 1:1,500,00, each one costing around $11.

Tips on Accommodations

Choosing a Hotel in China

When China reopened its doors to tourists in the early 1980s, hotel choices were very limited for foreigners, but these days there are increasingly more options, and the only thing that is thin on the ground is character. At the upper end of the scale, international chains are keen to get their slice of the Chinese pie and are opening new joint-venture hotels around the country. In the major cities you'll find the gamut of international chains, including Best Western, Crowne Plaza, Grand Hyatt, Harbor Plaza, Hilton, Holiday Inn, Kempinski, Marco Polo, Marriott, Ramada, St. Regis, Shangri-La, Sheraton, and Sofitel, among others. In most joint venture hotels the buildings are Chinese-owned, and the foreign part of the venture is the management company, which provides senior management and trains the staff, tries to ensure conformity with their standards, does worldwide marketing, and generally provides up to 90% of what you'd expect from the same brand at home. Chinese-owned chains are also improving and expanding, however while the exterior appearances of domestic and international five-stars may be similar, if you have the choice, go for the latter, as while prices will be comparable, service is almost always better. Unfortunately, such large operations also have large carbon footprints, and often put very little back into the local economies. It is therefore wise to remember that every time you open your wallet, you are voting either yes or no for the environment. Budget choices are more limited, in part because hotels require licenses to receive foreign guests, and many cheapies don't have these. Saving the day, though, are a new breed of business chain hotels such as Home Inn, Jinjiang Inn, and 7-Days Inn, which are sweeping the nation, and offer inexpensive (usually under ¥200) functional, modern rooms, often with good locations near the city center.

In general, Chinese hotels receive almost no maintenance once they open. There are "five-star" hotels in Beijing that have gone a decade without proper redecoration or refurbishment. Foreign managements force the issue with building owners, but it's rare elsewhere that standards are maintained. Thus the best choice is almost always the newest -- teething troubles aside, most things will work, staff will be eager to please (if not quite sure how), rooms will be spotless, and rates will be easily bargained down, since few hotels spend any money on advertising their existence.

Hotel Amenities -- The international chain hotels will feature all of the facilities you'd expect around the world, but the Chinese star-rating system itself is virtually meaningless. Five-star ratings are awarded from Beijing authorities, but four-star and lower depend upon provincial concerns. In some areas a four-star hotel must have a pool, in others a bowling alley, and in others a tennis court. The Jacuzzi may have more rings than a sequoia, the bowling alley be permanently out of order, and the tennis court be used for barbecues, but the hotel will retain its four stars, as long as it banquets the inspectors adequately. This said, most three-star places and above will have a functioning business center, restaurant, laundry facilities, and maybe a travel desk. In theory, all hotels approved to take foreign guests should also have at least one English-speaking staff member, but they often fail to materialize. Salons, massage rooms, nightclubs, and karaoke rooms are often merely bases for other kinds of illegal entertainment (for men). You may receive unexpected phone calls. If you are female, the phone may be put down without anything being said, as it may be if you are male and answer in English. But if the caller persists and is female, and you hear the word aanmo (massage), then what is being offered probably needs no further explanation, but a massage is only the beginning. Unplug the phone when you go to sleep.

Types of Rooms -- Ordinary Chinese hotels usually speak of a biaozhun jian, or standard room, which means a room with twin beds, occasionally with a double bed, and with a private bathroom. Often double beds have only recently been installed in a few rooms, which are now referred to as danren jian or single rooms. Nevertheless, two people can stay there, and the price is lower than that of a twin room. In older hotels, genuine single rooms are available, and in many hotels below four-star level there are triple rooms and quads, which can also serve as dorms shared with strangers. Children 12 and under can stay for free in their parent's room. Hotels will add an extra bed to your room for a small charge, which you can negotiate.

Almost all rooms in China have the following: a telephone whose line can usually be unplugged for use in a laptop; air-conditioning, which is either central with a wall-mounted control, or individual to the room with a remote control, and which may double as a heater; a television, usually with no English channels except CCTV 9 (to which no buttons may be tuned) and possibly an in-house movie channel using pirated DVDs; and a thermos of boiled water or a kettle to boil your own, usually with cups and free bags of green tea. In a cupboard somewhere there will be a quilt. Between the beds (most rooms still have twin beds) will be an array of switches, which may or may not actually control what they say they control. In the bathroom there are free soap and shampoo, and in better hotels a shower cap, and toothbrush/toothpaste package (but bring your own).

International hotels regularly describe their standard accommodations as deluxe, and, along with the facilities listed above, in the room you should expect to find a fridge, maybe a minibar, a hairdryer, satellite TV, and either broadband or wireless Internet connection (which is often chargeable).

Checking In & Checking Out -- Foreign credit cards are increasingly accepted in three-star hotels upwards, but never rely on this. Most hotels accepting foreigners have foreign exchange facilities on the premises, although some may send you elsewhere to exchange checks. Almost all require payment in advance, plus a deposit (yajin), which is refundable when you leave. Keep all receipts you are given, as you may need to show one to floor staff to get your key, and you may in fact need to hand the key back and retrieve the receipt again before you can leave. To get your deposit back, you'll need to hand over the receipt for that when you check out.

To check in, you'll need your passport and you'll have to complete a registration form (which will usually be in English). Always inspect the room before checking in. You'll be asked how many nights you want to stay, and you should always say just one, because if you say four, you'll be asked for the 4 nights' fee in advance (plus a deposit), and because it may turn out that the hot water isn't hot enough, the karaoke rooms are over your head, or a building site behind the hotel starts work at 8am sharp. Once you've tried 1 night, you can pay for more.

When you check out, the floor staff will be called to make sure you haven't broken or stolen anything (there is usually a list in each room detailing the costs of every item within); this may not happen speedily, so allow a little extra time.

Saving on Your Hotel Room

The rack rate is the maximum rate that a hotel charges for a room. In China these rates are nothing more than the first bid in a bargaining discussion, designed to keep the final price you will actually pay as high as possible. You'll almost never pay more than 90%, usually not more than 70%, frequently not more than 50%, and sometimes as little as 30% of this first asking price. Guidelines on discounts are given for each city. Avoid booking through Chinese hotel agencies and websites specializing in Chinese hotels. The discounts they offer are precisely what you can get for yourself, and you can in fact beat them because you won't be paying their markup. Many of these have no allocations at all, and simply jump on the phone to book a room as soon as they hear from you. Here are some tips to lower the cost of your room:

• Do not book ahead. Just show up and bargain. In China this applies as much to the top-class joint-venture names as to all the others. The best price is available over the counter, as long as there's room. For most of the year, across China, there are far more rooms than customers at every level. For ordinary Chinese hotels you may well pay double by booking ahead, and there's no guarantee your reservation will be honored if the hotel fills up or if someone else arrives before you, cash in hand.

• Dial any central booking number. Contrary to popular wisdom, as the better hotels manage their rates with increasing care, the central booking number is likely to have a rate as good as or better than the rate you can get by calling the hotel directly, and the call is usually toll-free.

In Hong Kong & Macau -- Hong Kong in particular is well stocked with hotels that regularly make their way onto lists of the world's best. Service is second to none, and they are worth flying halfway around the world to stay in. Little of what's said about mainland hotels above applies.

Tips for Families

Travel with children is increasingly popular, and family-oriented China is a great place to take the kids. When planning a trip with children it is important to think carefully about the balance of activities. As well as taking in the sights you want to see, you should also ensure that there are plenty of fun things for the kids to do, and that hotels and restaurants are as kid-friendly as possible. Your biggest challenges will be the long journeys between destinations (certainly if you travel by land) and the lack of familiar foods (unless your children have been brought up with Chinese food).

A few companies organize family trips to China, including: Pacific Delight World Tours (www.pacificdelighttours.com) and Rascals in Paradise (www.rascalsinparadise.com). Pacific runs tours that take in the Three Gorges and the Chengdu Research Base of Giant Panda Breeding, while San Francisco-based Rascals offers 14-day tours stretching from Beijing all the way down to Yangshuo.

Children must have their own passport and visa.

Regions in Brief

Beijing & Hebei

While there was much talk of getting to the Three Gorges on the Yangzi River before the area's partial disappearance, the real urgency is to see what little is left of old Beijing, with its ancient housing and original Ming dynasty street plan. Thanks to new construction, whole city blocks can vanish at once, sometimes taking ancient, long-forgotten temples with them.

But while Beijing suffers from being communism's showpiece for the outside world and a victim of ersatz modernization, it still has far more to offer than several other Chinese cities put together, including some of China's most extravagant monuments, such as the Forbidden City. In addition, the city has easy access to the surrounding province of Hebei with its sinuous sections of the Great Wall and vast tomb complexes.

The Northeast

Even if the Chinese no longer believe civilization ends at the Great Wall, most tourists still do. The frigid lands to the Northeast, once known as Tartary or Manchuria, represent one of the least-visited and most challenging regions in China, and its last great travel frontier.

Despite industrialization, the provinces of Liaoning, Jilin, and Heilong Jiang, and the northern section of Inner Mongolia, still claim China's largest natural forest, its most pristine grasslands, and one of its most celebrated lakes (Tian Chi). You'll also find architectural remnants of the last 350 years -- early Qing palaces and tombs, incongruous Russian cupolas, and eerie structures left over from Japan's wartime occupation.

Around the Yellow River

As covered in this book, this region comprises an area of northern China that includes Shanxi, Ningxia, parts of Shaanxi, and Inner Mongolia, roughly following the central loop of the Yellow River north of Xi'an. One of China's "cradles of civilization," the area is home to most of the country's oldest surviving timber-frame buildings, its oldest carved Buddhist grottoes, and Pingyao, one of its best-preserved walled cities.

The Silk Routes

From the ancient former capital of Xi'an, famed for the modern rediscovery of the Terra-Cotta Warriors, trade routes ran in all directions, but most famously (because they were given a clever name in the 19th c.) west and northwest through Gansu and Xinjiang, and on to the Middle East. Under the control of Tibetan, Mongol, Indo-European, and Turkic peoples more than of Chinese, these regions are still populated with Uighurs, Tajiks, Kazakhs, Tibetans, and others, some in tiny oasis communities on the rim of the Taklamakan Desert, which seem completely remote from China. Indeed, the Uighurs would rather rule themselves, and there has been a resurgence in calls for independence that most recently left over 150 Han Chinese dead after riots in the Xinjiang capital, Ürumqi, in July 2009.

The Silk Routes are littered with alien monuments and tombs, and with magnificent cave-temple sights such as Dunhuang, which demonstrate China's import of foreign religions and aesthetics as much as the wealth generated by its exports of silk.

Eastern Central China

Eastern central China, between the Yellow River (Huang He) and the Yangzi River (Chang Jiang), is an area covering the provinces of Henan, Shandong, Jiangsu, and Anhui. Chinese culture developed and flourished with little outside influence here. Luoyang was the capital of nine dynasties, Kaifeng capital of six, and Nanjing capital of eight. Qufu, the hometown of China's most important philosopher, Confucius, is here, as are several of China's holiest mountains, notably Tai Shan and Huang Shan, as well as that watery equivalent of the Great Wall, the Grand Canal.

Shanghai

After 50 years of being overlooked, Shanghai, the Pearl of the Orient, is once again booming and its status as the country's wealthiest city, with the highest per capita incomes, is attracting businesses and workers from around the globe. While the skyscrapers grow taller and ever more eye-catching, the sweep of 19th- and early-20th-century architecture along the Bund and the Art Deco masterpieces to be found in the French Concession behind it, hark back to the city's last glory days of the 19th century. These contrasting features make Shanghai the mainland's top East-meets-West destination, and it has the restaurants and relaxed and open-minded atmosphere to match. Nearby Hangzhou and Suzhou offer some of China's most famous scenery.

The Southeast

South of Shanghai and the Yangzi River, the coastal provinces of Zhejiang, Fujian, and Guangdong have always been China's most outward looking. These areas, which boomed under the relatively open Tang dynasty and which were forced to reopen as "treaty ports" by the guns of the first multinationals in the 19th century, are also those most industrialized under the current "reform and opening" policy. Remembering that this is a guide for travelers rather than businesspeople, we have focused on areas of great natural beauty such as Anji and Yandangshan, rather than "developed" coastal cities. A bit inland, the impoverished pottery-producing province of Jiangxi illustrates the two-speed nature of China's growth.

Hong Kong & Macau

Two sets of pencil-slim towers jostle for position on either side of a harbor, close as bristles on a brush. Between them, ponderous oceangoing vessels slide past puttering junks, and century-old ferries waddle and weave across their paths. The mixture of Asia's finest hotels, territory-wide duty-free shopping, incense-filled working temples, rugged and surprisingly remote outlying islands, and fun, historic transport options including the Star Ferry and trams, make this city-state worth flying to Asia to see in its own right. Macau, once a provincial backwater, now Asia's gambling capital, still offers a little bit of misplaced Mediterranean, and is a short ferry ride away.

The Southwest

Encompassing the provinces of Yunnan, Guizhou, Guangxi, and Hainan Island, this region is home to some of China's most spectacular mountain scenery and three of Asia's mightiest rivers, resulting in some of the most breathtaking gorges and lush river valleys in the country.

Even more appealing: This region is easily the most ethnically diverse in China. Twenty-six of China's 56 officially recognized ethnic groups can be found in the southwest, from the Mosu in Lugu Lake to the Dai in Xishuangbanna, and from the Miao around Kaili to the Dong in San Jiang, each with different architecture, dress, traditions, and colorful festivals.

The Yangzi River

In addition to shared borders, the landlocked provinces of Sichuan, Hubei, and Hunan and the municipality of Chongqing have in common the world's third-longest river, the Chang Jiang ("Long River," aka Yangzi or Yangtze). The home of five holy Buddhist and/or Daoist mountains, this area contains some of China's most beautiful scenery, particularly in northern Sichuan and northern Hunan.

Sichuan deserves exploration using Chengdu as a base, and the Hunan should be explored from Changsha. If you're taking the Three Gorges cruise (available indefinitely despite what you may have heard), try to at least leave yourself a few days on either end to explore Chongqing and Wuhan. And a day trip from Chongqing to the Buddhist grottoes at Dazu is well worth the time.

The Tibetan World

The Tibetan plateau is roughly the size of western Europe, with an average elevation of over 4,000m (13,123 ft.). Ringed by vast mountain ranges such as the Kunlun range to the north and the Himalayas, the region offers towering scenic splendors as well as some of the richest minority culture within modern China's borders. Lhasa, former seat of the Dalai Lamas, is dominated physically by the vast Potala Palace, and emotionally by the fervor of the pilgrims to the Jokhang Temple. However, recent discontent and unrest has brought armed Chinese soldiers to the streets of Lhasa. While a trip to the Tibetan Autonomous Region is still to be recommended, neighboring Chinese provinces, particularly Qinghai, offer similar scenery and Tibetan culture, and generally speaking, the authorities are less watchful and the atmosphere in both monasteries and on the streets is more relaxed.

Staying Connected

Telephones

To call China, Hong Kong, or Macau:

1. Dial the international access code (011 in the U.S. and Canada, 00 in the U.K., Ireland, and New Zealand, or 0011 from Australia).

2. Dial the country code: 86 for China, 852 for Hong Kong, 853 for Macau.

3. For China, dial the city code, omitting the leading zero, and then the number. Hong Kong and Macau have no city codes, so after the country code, simply dial the remainder of the number.

To call within China: For calls within the same city, omit the city code, which always begins with a zero when used (010 for Beijing, 020 for Guangzhou, and so on). All hotel phones have direct dialing, and most have international dialing. Hotels are only allowed to add a service charge of up to 15% to the cost of the call, and even long-distance rates within China are very low. To use a public telephone you'll need an IC (integrated circuit) card (aaisei ka), available in values from ¥20. You can buy them at post offices, convenience stores, street stalls, or wherever you can make out the letters "IC" among the Chinese characters. A local call is typically ¥.22 for 3 minutes. Phones show you the value remaining on the card when you insert it, and count down as you talk. To call within Hong Kong: In Hong Kong, local calls made from homes, offices, shops, and other establishments are free, so don't feel shy about asking to use the phone. From hotel lobbies and public phone booths, a local call costs HK$1 for each 5 minutes; from hotel rooms, about HK$4 to HK$5. To call within Macau: Local calls from private phones are free, and from call boxes cost MOP$1.

To make international calls: From mainland China or Macau, first dial 00 and then the country code (U.S. or Canada 1, U.K. 44, Ireland 353, Australia 61, New Zealand 64). Next, dial the area or city code, omitting any leading zero, and then the number. For example, if you want to call the British Embassy in Washington, D.C., you would dial tel. 00-1-202/588-7800. Forget taking access numbers for your local phone company with you -- you can call internationally for a fraction of the cost by using an IP (Internet protocol) card, aaipii ka, purchased from department stores and other establishments -- wherever you see the letters "IP." Instructions for use are on the back, but you simply dial the access number given, choose English from the menu, and follow the instructions to dial in the number behind a scratch-off panel. Depending on where you call, ¥50 can give you an hour of talking, but you should bargain to pay less than the face value of the card -- sometimes as little as ¥70 for a ¥100 card from street vendors.

To use a public phone, you'll need an IC card to make the local call. In emergencies, dial 108 to negotiate a collect call, but again, in most towns you'll need help from a Mandarin speaker. From Hong Kong dial 001, 0080, or 009, depending on which of several competing phone companies you are using. Follow with the country code and continue as for calling from China or Macau.

It's much cheaper to use one of several competing phone cards, such as Talk Talk, which come in denominations ranging from HK$50 to HK$300 and are available at HKTB information offices and convenience stores.

For directory assistance: In mainland China dial tel. 114. No English is spoken, and only local numbers are available. If you want other cities, dial the city code followed by 114 -- a long-distance call. In Hong Kong dial tel. 1081 for a local number, and 10013 for international ones. In Macau dial tel. 181 for domestic numbers, and 101 for international ones.

For operator assistance: If in mainland China if you need operator assistance in making a call, just ask for help at your hotel. In Hong Kong dial tel. 10010 for domestic assistance, 10013 for international assistance.

Toll-free numbers: Numbers beginning with 800 within China are toll-free, but calling a toll-free number abroad from China is a full-tariff international call, as is calling one in Hong Kong from mainland China, or vice versa.

Cellphones

All Europeans, most Australians, and many North Americans use GSM (Global System for Mobiles) cellphones. But while everyone else can take a regular GSM phone to China, North Americans, who operate on a different frequency, need to have a more expensive triband model. International roaming charges can also be horrendously expensive, so it's far cheaper to buy a "pay as you go" SIM card on arrival in China. These are available at airports and train stations, and you can buy top-up cards from the service provider shops, as well as some news kiosks and post offices in larger cities. China Mobile tends to have the best coverage, but there are plenty of other options, including China Unicom. SIM cards generally cost around ¥100 and include a limited amount of talk-time. Getting the shop that you buy the SIM from to install and activate it makes life easier. If you're going to be traveling extensively around the country, bear in mind that calls will be cheapest in the "home zone" where you bought the SIM card, so if you have any choice about it, buy the SIM where you will be spending most of your time (or where you expect to make and receive the most calls). If your phone doesn't work in China (or if you don't want to risk losing your expensive phone while away), buying a local cellphone is a good option; the cheapest models are available for under ¥200, although they are unlikely to work in North America on your return.

Renting a phone is another alternative, although this is expensive, and best done from home, since such services are not widely available in China. That way you can give out your new number, and make sure the phone works. You'll usually pay $40 to $50 per week, plus air-time fees of at least $1 a minute. In the U.S., two good wireless rental companies are InTouch USA (www.intouchglobal.com) and RoadPost (tel. 888/290-1616 or 905/272-4934; www.roadpost.com).

Internet/E-Mail

Despite highly publicized clamp-downs on Internet cafes, monitoring of traffic, and blocking of websites, China remains one of the easiest countries in the world in which to get online.

Without Your Own Computer -- Almost any hotel with a business center, right down to Chinese government-rated two-star level, offers expensive Internet access, and almost every town has a few Internet cafes (wangba), with rates typically ¥2 to ¥5 per hour, many open 24 hours a day. Locations of cafes are given for most cities in this guide, but they come and go very rapidly. Keep your eyes open for the wangba characters. In Hong Kong many coffee bars have a free terminal or two.

Thanks to ADSL (Asymmetric Digital Subscriber Lines) many progressive bars and guesthouses are now offering free Internet on the mainland, too. Note that some Internet bars are often noisy and smoky places crammed full of teenage online gamers; you will usually find that the local library is a much cleaner, often cheaper alternative.

Many media websites and those with financial information or any data whatsoever on China that disagrees with the party line are blocked from mainland China, as are some search engines. These days you may also be asked to show your passport before being able to surf the net.

With Your Own Computer -- It's just possible that your ISP has a low-cost local access number in China, but that's unlikely. These days many hotels in Chinese cities (and tourist destinations) offer in-room broadband Internet access. This is often free, and you simply need to ask reception for a cable (wangxin), but sometimes it is chargeable. Typical charges range from ¥10 per day in budget places, to ¥80 or more in five-star hotels. Most of the time you'll connect automatically, but on occasion you might need to input the IP address and password the hotel will provide you with. Some hotels also have Wi-Fi in the lobby, and maybe in the rooms; if you plan to use this, check that you get a decent signal as soon as you check in, and if it's weak, ask to change rooms. Finally, as a last resort, there's free, anonymous dial-up access across most of China, although this is slow, and seldom used these days. Look for "Internet Access" in the "Fast Facts" sections of cities in this book; you can connect by using the number we've provided, and by making the account name and password the same as the dial-up number.

Mainland China uses the standard U.S.-style RJ11 telephone jack also used as the port for laptops worldwide. Cables with RJ11 jacks at both ends can be picked up for around $2 in department stores and electrical shops without difficulty. In Hong Kong and Macau, however, phone connections are often to U.K. standards, although in better hotels an RJ11 socket is provided. Standard electrical voltage across China is 220v, 50Hz, which most laptops can deal with, but North American users in particular should check.

Online Traveler's Toolbox

Fast Facts

Area & Country Codes -- China (86); Hong Kong (852); Macau (853).

Business Hours -- Offices are generally open from 9am to 6pm but are closed Saturday and Sunday. Most shops, sights, restaurants, and transport systems offer the same service 7 days a week. Shops are typically open at least from 8am to 8pm. Bank opening hours vary widely. In Hong Kong and Macau, most offices are open Monday through Friday from 9am to 5pm, with lunch hour from 1 to 2pm; Saturday business hours are generally 9am to 1pm. Most Hong Kong and Macau shops are open 7 days a week, from 10am to at least 7pm.

Car Rentals -- Self-drive rental options are very limited in China and driving is not recommended.

Drinking Laws -- With the exception of some minor local regulations, there are no liquor laws in China. Alcohol can be bought in any convenience store, supermarket, restaurant, bar, hotel, or club, 7 days a week, and may be drunk anywhere you feel like drinking it. If the shop is open 24 hours, then the alcohol is available 24 hours, too. Closing times for bars and clubs vary according to demand, but typically it's all over by 3am. In Hong Kong, liquor laws largely follow the U.K. model; restaurants, bars, and clubs must obtain licenses to sell alcohol for consumption on the premises, and shops must have licenses to sell it for consumption off the premises. In either case, licenses prohibit sale of alcohol to persons under 18. The same holds true for Macau. Licensing hours vary from area to area.

Electricity -- The electricity used in all parts of China is 220 volts, alternating current (AC), 50 cycles. Most devices from North America, therefore, cannot be used without a transformer. If you have 110V devices your hotel may be able to supply a voltage converter. The most common outlet takes the North American two-flat-pin plug (but not the three-pin version, or those with one pin broader than the other). Nearly as common are outlets for the two-round-pin plugs common in Europe. Outlets for the three-flat-pin (two pins at an angle) variety used in Australia are also frequently seen. Many hotel rooms have all three, and indeed many outlets are designed to take all three plugs. Adapters with two or three flat pins are available inexpensively in department stores, and good hotels can often provide them free of charge. China is quite sophisticated in this area, and one can easily buy a power strip that has the requisite plug to go into a Chinese wall outlet and eight universal outlets that will accept any type of plug used in the world. Shaver sockets are common in bathrooms of hotels from three stars upward. In Hong Kong and Macau, the British-style three-chunky-pin plugs are standard, although Macau also has round-pin varieties.

Embassies & Consulates -- Most countries maintain embassies in Beijing and consulates in Hong Kong. Australia also has consulates in Guangzhou and Shanghai; Canada and the U.K. in Chongqing, Guangzhou, and Shanghai; New Zealand in Shanghai; and the U.S. in Chengdu, Guangzhou, and Shanghai. See those relevant chapters for further information.

Emergencies -- Little English is spoken on emergency numbers in China, although your best bet will be tel. 110. Find help nearer at hand. In Hong Kong and Macau dial tel. 999 for police, fire, or ambulance.

Internet Access -- Internet connection is widely accessible in China via Internet cafes, broadband, and Wi-Fi in hotel rooms, lobbies, and cafes. As a slower, last resort, anonymous dial-up is also readily available.

Language -- English is widely spoken in Hong Kong, fairly common in Macau, and rare in the mainland, although this is changing. There will often be someone who speaks a little English at your hotel and you can ask that person to help you with phone calls and bookings. Information, booking, complaint, or emergency lines in the mainland rarely have anyone who speaks English.

Legal Aid -- If you get on the wrong side of the law in China, contact your consulate immediately.

Mail -- Sending mail from China is remarkably reliable, although sending it to private addresses within China is not. Take the mail to post offices rather than using mailboxes. Some larger hotels have postal services on-site. It helps if mail sent out of the country has its country of destination written in characters, but this is not essential, although hotel staff will often help. Letters and cards written in red ink will occasionally be rejected. Overseas mail: postcards ¥4.20, letters under 10 grams ¥5.40, letters under 20 grams ¥6.50. EMS (express parcels under 500g): to the U.S.: ¥180 to ¥240; to Europe ¥220 to ¥280; to Australia ¥160 to ¥210. Normal parcels up to 1 kilogram (2 1/4 lb.): to the U.S. by air ¥102, by sea ¥20 to ¥84; to the U.K. by air ¥142, by sea ¥22 to ¥108; to Australia by air ¥135, by sea ¥15 to ¥89. Letters and parcels can be registered for a small extra charge. Registration forms and Customs declaration forms are in Chinese and French. The post offices of Hong Kong and Macau are reliable, but both have their own stamps and rates.

Newspapers & Magazines -- Sino-foreign joint-venture hotels in the bigger cities have a selection of foreign newspapers and magazines available, but these are otherwise not on sale. The government distributes a propaganda sheet called China Daily, usually free at hotels, and there are occasional local variations. Cities with larger populations support a number of self-censoring entertainment magazines usually produced by resident foreigners and only slightly more bland when produced by Chinese aiming at the same market. Nevertheless, these do have accurate entertainment listings, restaurant reviews, and local healthcare details. A vast range of English publications is easily available in Hong Kong and Macau, as well as local newspapers such as the South China Morning Post.

Police -- Known to foreigners as the PSB (Public Security Bureau; gong'an ju), although these represent only one of several different types of officer in mainland China, the police (jingcha) are best avoided unless absolutely necessary. If you must see them for some reason, then approach your hotel for assistance first, and visit the PSB offices listed in this guide as dealing with visa extensions, since these are the most likely branches to have an English-speaker. In Hong Kong and Macau, however, you can usually ask policemen for directions and expect them to be generally helpful.

Smoking -- The government of China is the world's biggest cigarette manufacturer. China is home to 20% of the world's population but 30% of the world's cigarettes and is growing fast, especially now that young women are starting to take up the habit. About one million people a year in China die of smoking-related illnesses. In the mainland, nonsmoking tables in restaurants are almost unheard of, and nonsmoking signs are favorite places beneath which to sit and smoke. Smokers are generally sent to the spaces between the cars on trains, but they won't bother to do so if no one protests. The same is true on air-conditioned buses, where some will light up to see if they can get away with it (but usually they'll be told to put it out).

Taxes -- In mainland China, occasional taxes are added to hotel bills, but these are minor and usually included in the room rate. Service charges appear mostly in joint-venture hotels, and range from 10% to 15%. Many Chinese hotels list service charges in their literature, but few have the nerve to add them to room rates unless the hotel is very full. However, restaurants may add the service charge. There is no departure tax for domestic and international flights. There are also lesser taxes for international ferry departures at some ports. In Hong Kong, better hotels will add a 10% service charge and a 3% government tax to your bill. Better restaurants and bars will automatically add a 10% service charge. In Macau, better hotels charge 10% for service as well as a 5% tax. Marine departure taxes are included in ticket prices. Transit passengers who continue their journey within 24 hours of arrival are exempted from passenger tax.

Time Zone -- The whole of China is on Beijing time -- 8 hours ahead of GMT (and therefore of London), 13 hours ahead of New York, 14 hours ahead of Chicago, and 16 hours ahead of Los Angeles. There's no daylight saving time (summertime), so subtract 1 hour in the summer.

Tipping -- In mainland China, tipping is not necessary or expected and will likely be refused if offered. The Chinese do not tip, but those used to dealing with foreigners (five-star hotel bellboys), or involved in the tourist trade (bus drivers, guides, tour leaders) are familiar with tipping and are unlikely to refuse it if offered. If you are on an escorted tour, your leader may well collect a kitty to be distributed as appropriate; let them know if you think a service provider was, or wasn't worth a tip, from bellboys in five-star places, and those associated with the tourist trade (guides, tour leader, and drivers).

In Hong Kong and Macau, even though restaurants and bars will automatically add a 10% service charge to your bill, you're still expected to leave small change for the waiter, up to a few dollars in the very best restaurants. You're also expected to tip taxi drivers, bellhops, barbers, and beauticians. For taxi drivers, simply round up your bill to the nearest HK$1 or add a HK$1 tip. Tip people who cut your hair 5% or 10%, and give bellhops HK$10 to HK$20, depending on the number of your bags. If you use a public restroom that has an attendant, you may be expected to leave a small gratuity -- HK$2 should be enough.

Toilets -- Street-level public toilets in China are common, many detectable by the nose before they are seen. There's often an entrance fee of ¥.20 to ¥.50, but not necessarily running water. In many cases you merely squat over a trough. So, use the standard Western equipment in your hotel room, in department stores and malls, and in branches of foreign fast-food chains. In Hong Kong and Macau, facilities are far more hygienic.

Water -- Tap water in mainland China is not drinkable, and should not even be used for brushing your teeth. Use bottled water, widely available on every street, and provided for free in all the better hotels. Tap water is drinkable in Hong Kong, but bottled water tastes better.

Tips for Women Travelers

When compared with many other countries, travel for women in China throws up few more problems than it does for men. You may well be stared at, but this is not the intimidating ogle faced in some countries, and is more of a fascinated gaze. Indeed female travelers in China more often complain of being ignored than hassled. This said, in the northwest more care is advised, and as with anywhere you'd be wise to take a few basic precautions, such as avoiding unlit areas late at night. In urban China dress for women is fairly relaxed, and in the cities miniskirts and tiny tops are commonplace, but in rural areas conservative clothing is advised. Sanitary pads are widely available, although tampons are harder to come by outside of the big cities.

Getting There

By Plane

Around the world travelers are becoming increasingly environmentally aware and looking at other transport alternatives, however, for the meanwhile, flying remains the easiest, and most popular, way to arrive in China. Beijing (PEK), Shanghai (PVG) and Hong Kong (HKG) are the major international hubs to choose from, and are all served by a wide range of international and domestic carriers. Cathay Pacific Airlines, Hong Kong's main international carrier, is effortlessly superior to North American airlines in service standards, and should be the first choice for direct flights to Hong Kong where available. Guangzhou's new Baiyun Airport (CAN) is also connected to an increasing number of cities around the world, and prices can be considerably lower than to nearby Hong Kong. You should select your hub airport according to where you want to travel, and consider flying into one and out of another if that fits your itinerary and you can get a reasonable fare.

Note that there is no departure tax on either domestic or international flights and that that all taxes and fees are usually included in ticket prices.

From North America -- Among North American airlines, Air Canada (www.aircanada.com) flies to Beijing and Shanghai, Northwest Airlines (www.nwa.com) to Beijing via Tokyo, and United Airlines (www.united.com) to Beijing and Shanghai.

Japan Airlines (www.jal.com) flies via Tokyo to Beijing and Shanghai, but also to Dalian, Qingdao, and Xiamen. All Nippon Airways (www.ana.co.jp) flies to Beijing, Dalian, Qingdao, Shanghai, Shenyang, Tianjin, and Xiamen. Korean Air (www.koreanair.com) flies via Seoul to Beijing, Qingdao, and Shenyang; and Asiana Airlines (us.flyasiana.com) flies via Seoul to Beijing, Changchun, Chengdu, Chongqing, Guangzhou, Guilin, Harbin, Nanjing, Shanghai, Xi'an, and Yantai.

Hong Kong is served by Air Canada (www.aircanada.com), American Airlines (www.aa.com), Delta Airlines (www.delta.com), Northwest Airlines (www.nwa.com), US Airways (www.usairways.com), and United Airlines (www.united.com), as well as Hong Kong's Cathay Pacific Airlines (www.cathaypacific.com). Indirect routes are offered by All Nippon Airways (www.ana.co.jp), Asiana Airlines (us.flyasiana.com), China Airlines (via Taipei; www.china-airlines.com), Eva Airways (excellent value, also via Taipei; www.evaair.com.tw), Korean Air (www.koreanair.com), and Japan Airlines (www.jal.com).

From the United Kingdom -- British Airways (www.britishairways.com) flies to Beijing, Shanghai, and Hong Kong, and Virgin Airlines to Shanghai and Hong Kong (www.virgin-atlantic.com). Cathay Pacific (www.cathaypacific.com) also flies directly to Hong Kong. Fares with KLM Royal Dutch Airlines (www.klm.com) via Amsterdam, with Lufthansa (www.lufthansa.com) via Frankfurt, and with Finnair (www.finnair.com) via Helsinki, can often be considerably cheaper. Fares with eastern European airlines such as Tarom Romanian Air Transport (www.tarom.ro) via Bucharest, and with Aeroflot (www.aeroflot.ru/eng) via Moscow, or with Asian airlines such as Pakistan International Airlines (www.piac.com.hk) via Islamabad or Karachi, Malaysia Airlines (www.malaysiaairlines.com) via Kuala Lumpur, or Singapore Airlines (www.singaporeair.com) via Singapore, can be cheaper still. There are even more creative route possibilities via Ethiopia or the Persian Gulf States.

From Australia & New Zealand -- There's not much choice to the mainland from down under, although Sydney is served by China Eastern and Air China to Beijing and Shanghai, and by Air China and China Southern to Guangzhou. Qantas (www.qantas.com.au) flies to Shanghai and Hong Kong and Air New Zealand (www.airnewzealand.com) offers Hong Kong flights. There are possible indirect routes with Philippine Airlines (www.philippineairlines.com) via Manila, and with Garuda Indonesia (www.garuda-indonesia.com) via Jakarta. Hong Kong's Cathay Pacific (www.cathaypacific.com) flies directly from six Australian cities and Auckland.

By Car & Bus

Foreign visitors are not permitted to drive their own vehicles into China, without prior arrangement through a state-recognized travel agency. The agency will provide a guide who will travel in your vehicle and make sure you stick to the itinerary, or who will travel in a second vehicle with a driver. You will have to cover all the costs of guide, driver, and extra vehicle if needed, and of Chinese plates for your vehicle.

There are bus services between Sost in Pakistan and Kashgar, between Almaty in Kazakhstan and Ürumqi, and between Hong Kong and Macau to various points in the mainland. The Torugart Pass between Bishkek in Kyrgyzstan and Kashgar can be crossed if prearranged transport is waiting to collect you on the Chinese side. It's also possible to cross various borders on foot, including from Mongolia on the route from Ulaan Baatar to Beijing, from Vietnam to Yunnan and Guangxi provinces, from Laos to Yunnan, and from Macau and Hong Kong to Guangdong Province.

By Train

From Hung Hom station in Kowloon (Hong Kong), expresses run directly to Guangzhou, Beijing, and Shanghai (visit www.throughtrain.kcrc.com for schedules and fares). From Almaty in Kazakhstan there are trains to Ürumqi in Xinjiang. From Moscow there are trains via Ulaan Baatar in Mongolia to Beijing, and via a more easterly route directly to Harbin in China's northeast and down to Beijing. There is a service between Beijing and Pyongyang in North Korea.

By Boat

Few travelers arrive in China by ship, but it is still an option, and cruise liners stop off at Hong Kong, Xingang (for Beijing), and Shanghai. Cruises last for a fortnight to months, but generally only spend a few days in dock. Cruise companies which run to China include: Cunard (www.cunard.com); P&O (www.pocruises.com); Princess (www.princess.com); Seabourn (www.seabourrn.com); and Star (www.starcruises.com).

Health & Safety

Staying Healthy

Plan well ahead. While a trip to Hong Kong or Macau can be made with little extra protection, a trip to mainland China, depending on its duration and time spent outside larger cities, may require a few new inoculations, especially if you haven't traveled much in the less-developed world before. Some of these are expensive, some need multiple shots separated by a month or two, and some should not be given at the same time. So start work on this 3 or 4 months before your trip.

For the latest information on infectious diseases and travel risks, and particularly on the constantly changing situation with malaria and respiratory viruses, consult the World Health Organization (www.who.int) and the Centers for Disease Control (www.cdc.gov). Look in particular for the latest information on respiratory viruses such as SARS, bird flu, and A(H1N1), which may continue long after the media has become bored with reporting it. Note that family doctors are rarely up to date with vaccination requirements, so when looking for advice at home, contact a specialist travel clinic.

To begin with, your standard inoculations, typically for polio, diphtheria, and tetanus, should be up-to-date. You may also need inoculations against typhoid fever, meningococcal meningitis, cholera, hepatitis A and B, and Japanese B encephalitis. If you will be arriving in mainland China from a country with yellow fever, you may be asked for proof of vaccination, although border health inspections are cursory at best. See also advice on malarial prophylactics, below. Tuberculosis is making a resurgence in many parts of the country and due to the explosive growth of the canine population, rabies is also on the rise again, although the risks in tourist areas are minimal.

General Availability of Health Care -- Advanced facilities staffed by foreign doctors are in Beijing, Shanghai, and Guangzhou, and excellent facilities in Hong Kong; these are listed as appropriate in this book and can also be found in local expat magazines. If you need to go to a Chinese hospital outside of these places, try and head to the biggest hospital in a large town. Foreigners who do end up in provincial facilities often get special treatment, but you may not consider it special enough.

Contact the International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers (IAMAT) (tel. 716/754-4883, or 416/652-0137 in Canada; www.iamat.org) for tips on travel and health concerns in the countries you're visiting, and for lists of local, English-speaking doctors. The United States Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (tel. 800/232-4636; www.cdc.gov) provides up-to-date information on health hazards by region or country and offers tips on food safety. Travel Health Online (www.tripprep.com), sponsored by a consortium of travel medicine practitioners, may also offer helpful advice on traveling abroad. You can find listings of reliable medical clinics overseas at the International Society of Travel Medicine (www.istm.org).

Common Ailments

Far fewer travelers get sick in China than India, Egypt, or a host of other tourist destinations in less-developed countries. However, if you're here for a while, there is of course a chance you'll fall ill somewhere along the way.

Respiratory Illnesses -- A billion Chinese spitting, pollution, and the contrast in temperature and humidity between freezing dry air-conditioning and sweltering summer heat, makes a respiratory tract infection the most likely illness to affect you in China. If you're lucky a sore throat might be the worst of it, but cold- or flu-like symptoms are also a possibility. A good range of local products can be used to treat respiratory infections (Golden Throat can stop your throat from getting too sore), but if you have a fever, are in serious discomfort, or the illness hasn't improved after 48 hours, see a doctor.

Stomach Upsets -- In many less-developed countries around the world stomach upsets are the most likely cause of illness for visitors, but, in China, where fresh food is cooked at high-temperatures, this is less of a worry. That isn't to say that it never happens and you should forego basic personal hygiene, but don't let worrying about what you eat dominate your trip to China. Keep your hands frequently washed and away from your mouth. Choose busy restaurants, with a high turnover, and only eat freshly cooked hot food, and fruit you can peel yourself. Drink only boiled or bottled water and use the same to brush your teeth. Never drink from the tap.

Malaria -- Mosquito-born malaria is present in parts of China's deep south, but unless you are going to be spending a lot of time out in the jungle during the wet season, it isn't a serious risk. If you will be visiting malarial regions for extended periods then it's worth considering prophylactic drugs. There are various prophylactics available, but you should ensure that the type you take is effective against the strains to be found in your destination. Often these drugs need to be taken up to a week before you arrive in the malarial zone, and for up to a month after you leave, and some (notoriously Larium) can have unpleasant side effects. Also bear in mind that even if you take anti-malarial prophylactics, if you are bitten by an Anopheles mosquito carrying the virus, chances are you will still get malaria; the drugs simply buy you a little time to get to hospital (although they can also mask the symptoms, making it more difficult to diagnose).

Other Risks -- If you visit Tibet, you may be at risk from altitude sickness, usually marked by throbbing headache, loss of appetite, shortness of breath, overwhelming lethargy, and paradoxically, difficulty sleeping. Other than retreating to a lower altitude, avoiding alcohol, and drinking plenty of water, many find a drug called Diamox (acetazolamide) to be effective. Locally, Hongjingtian is a widely available over-the-counter substitute.

Standard precautions should be taken against exposure to strong summer sun, its brightness often dimmed by pollution but its power to burn undiminished.

As people have more money, time, and enjoy more social liberties, there has been something of a sexual revolution in China. This has led to the spread of sexually transmitted diseases (including AIDS) and, in spite of educational attempts by the government, knowledge about the subject among the general populace remains limited. In short, you should not undertake intimate activities without protection. Condoms are widely available, including Western brands in bigger cities.

Pre-Trip Preparation

No matter how good your pre-trip health is, it's worth taking a basic first aid kit and a selection of your preferred over-the-counter medicines with you. If you have a chronic illness, ask your doctor to write a summary of the condition before you leave in case a problem develops while you are away. Pack prescription medications in your carry-on luggage, and leave them in their original containers, with pharmacy labels -- otherwise, they might not make it through airport security. Also take note of the generic name of your prescription medicines, in case a local pharmacist is unfamiliar with the brand name. For glasses (or contact lens) wearers, it's also worth taking a copy of your prescription with you, which will enable you to replace them if they get lost or broken, and will also allow you to take advantage of cheap opticians and buy a spare pair. You should also make sure you have some form of medical insurance, ideally a policy that includes emergency evacuation. If you're ever hospitalized more than 150 miles from home, MedjetAssist (tel. 800/527-7478; www.medjetassistance.com) will pick you up and fly you to the hospital of your choice virtually anywhere in the world in a medically equipped and staffed aircraft 24 hours day, 7 days a week. Annual memberships are $250 individual, $385 family; you can also purchase short-term memberships.

What to Do If You Get Sick Away from Home

For accidents and emergencies, head directly to the nearest large hospital, ideally one in a big city. For minor ailments and illnesses your first contact should be with your hotel reception. Many major hotels have doctors on staff who will treat minor problems, and who will be aware of the best place to send foreigners for further treatment. If the doctor gives you medicine, make sure you ask what each tablet is for as there is a tendency to prescribe a veritable candy-store of different colored tablets and a complicated schedule of when to take them, but some of them might just be multi-vitamins.

For coughs, colds, and minor stomach upsets, local pharmacies generally stock a wide range of over-the-counter medications (including many that are prescription only in the West), but you should make sure you understand the possible side-effects before taking anything, and ideally consult a doctor. 8 SAFETY

China was long touted as one of Asia's safest destinations, but this is changing. Physical violence is still virtually unheard of, but petty theft and scams are definitely on the rise. So be cautious about theft in the same places as anywhere else in the world -- crowded markets, popular tourist sights, bus and railway stations, and airports. Despite the rise in crime, the main danger of walking the ill-lit streets at night is of falling down an uncovered manhole or walking into a phone or power wire strung at neck height. Take standard precautions against pickpockets (distribute your valuables around your person, wear a money belt inside your clothes and avoid obvious displays of wealth). If you are a victim of theft, make a police report (go to the same addresses given for visa extensions in each city, where you are most likely to find an English-speaking policeman). But don't necessarily expect sympathy, cooperation, or action. The main purpose is to get a theft report to give to your insurers for compensation.

Harassment of solo female travelers is very rare, but is slightly more likely in the northwest of the country.

Traffic is also a hazard for the cautious and incautious alike. In Hong Kong and Macau, driving is on the left, and road signs and traffic lights are obeyed. In mainland China, driving is on the right, at least occasionally, and the rules of the road are routinely overridden by one rule: "I'm bigger than you, so get out of my way," and pedestrians are at the bottom of the pecking order. There's safety in numbers, though, and in cities those on foot tend to edge out into the traffic together. Cyclists go in both directions along the bike lane at the side of the road, which is also invaded by cars looking to park. The latest scourge to watch out for is rechargeable electric bicycles, which silently whiz along the sidewalk catching many pedestrians completely unawares.

Visitors should be aware of various scams in areas of high tourist traffic, and be wary of Chinese who approach and speak in English: "Hello, friend! Welcome to China!" or similar. Those who want to practice their English and who suggest moving to some local haunt may leave you with a bill that has two zeros more on it than it should. Fake "art students" who approach you with a story about raising funds for a show overseas are another pest. In fact they are merely enticing you into a shop where you will be lied to extravagantly about the authenticity and true cost of various paintings, which you will then be pressured into buying. However, don't let fear of being scammed stop you from meeting locals and interacting; most Chinese who approach you just want to meet a foreigner and if they suggest anything that sounds sketchy, simply say no.

Dealing with Discrimination

In general foreigners receive better treatment in China than the Chinese give one another, but there are also some ingrained cultural stereotypes and darker skinned travelers may have a harder time than lighter skinned travelers.

As a country closed for so long to outside influences, the Chinese are fascinated by foreigners and their long noses, round eyes, and strange hair. In remote spots, and conversely at major attractions that draw tourists from around the country, you may quickly find yourself the center of attention. Being stared at and having your photo taken with your newfound friends can get old fast, but it's important to remember that many Chinese come from foreigner-free towns and may only have seen a laowai (literally "old outsider") on TV up until this point, so meeting you is an event to be commemorated and discussed for weeks to come. Some foreign visitors even grow to love this "fame," and as more and more Chinese learn English, you might even get some conversation; if not, a quick smile and a "ni hao" usually leaves everyone happy. Of course there are times when you really want this attention (at a hotel reception or police station, for example) and everyone seems to ignore you, or worse still, just laughs at your requests. Laughing often hides embarrassment at not knowing how to deal with a foreigner, and you should refrain from getting angry or shouting; frustrating as it may be, persisting is the way forward.

Insurance

For China, purchase travel insurance with air ambulance or scheduled airline repatriation built in. Be clear on the terms and conditions -- is repatriation limited to life-threatening illnesses, for instance? If you do end up in hospital in China, you may face a substantial bill, and you will not be allowed to leave until you pay it in cash. For insurance payouts, you'll need to claim the expense when you return home, so make sure you have adequate proof of payment.

In general, the cost of travel insurance varies widely, depending on the destination, the cost and length of your trip, your age and health, and the type of trip you're taking, but expect to pay between 5% and 8% of the vacation itself. You can get estimates from various providers through InsureMyTrip.com.

U.K. citizens and their families who make more than one trip abroad per year may find an annual travel insurance policy is cheaper. Check www.moneysupermarket.com, which compares prices across a wide range of providers for single- and multi-trip travel and medical insurance policies.

Most big travel agents offer their own insurance and will probably try to sell you their package when you book a holiday. Think before you sign. Britain's Consumers' Association recommends that you insist on seeing the policy and reading the fine print before buying travel insurance. The Association of British Insurers (tel. 020/7600-3333; www.abi.org.uk) gives advice by phone and publishes Holiday Insurance, a free guide to policy provisions and prices. You might also shop around for better deals: Try Columbus Direct (tel. 0870/033-9988; www.columbusdirect.com).

Trip-Cancellation Insurance

Trip-cancellation insurance will help retrieve your money if you have to back out of a trip or depart early, or if your travel supplier goes bankrupt. Trip cancellation traditionally covers such events as sickness, natural disasters, and U.S. State Department advisories. The latest news in trip-cancellation insurance is the availability of expanded hurricane coverage and the "any-reason" cancellation coverage -- which costs more but covers cancellations made for any reason. You won't get back 100% of your prepaid trip cost, but you'll be refunded a substantial portion. TravelSafe (tel. 888/885-7233; www.travelsafe.com) offers both types of coverage. Expedia (www.expedia.com) also offers any-reason cancellation coverage for its air-hotel packages.

For details, contact one of the following recommended insurers: Access America (tel. 800/284-8300; www.accessamerica.com); Travel Guard International (tel. 800/826-4919; www.travelguard.com); Travel Insured International (tel. 800/243-3174; www.travelinsured.com); and Travelex Insurance Services (tel. 800/228-9792; www.travelex-insurance.com).

Medical Insurance

Purchasing travel medical insurance is recommended, particularly if you're traveling to a remote or high-risk area where emergency evacuation might be necessary. Try MEDEX Assistance (tel. 410/453-6300 in the U.S.; www.medexassist.com) or Travel Assistance International (tel. 800/821-2828 in the U.S.; www.travelassistance.com; for general information on services, call the company's Worldwide Assistance Services, Inc., at tel. 800/777-8710 in the U.S.

Canadians should check with their provincial health plan offices or call Health Canada (tel. 866/225-0709; www.hc-sc.gc.ca) to find out the extent of their coverage and what documentation and receipts they must take home in case they are treated overseas.

Escorted & Package Tours

Since China reopened to foreign tourism in the early 1980s, all foreign tour operators have been required to use official state-registered travel companies as ground handlers. All arrangements in China were usually put together by one of three companies: China International Travel Service (CITS), China Travel Service (CTS), or China Youth Travel Service (CYTS). Controls are now loosening, foreign tour companies are now allowed some limited activities in China, and the range of possible Chinese partners has increased, but in effect, CITS and the like are the only companies with nationwide networks of offices, and most foreign tour companies still turn to them. They work out the schedule at the highest possible prices and send the costs to the foreign package company, which then adds its own administration charges and hands the resulting quote to you.

You could get the same price yourself by dealing with CITS (which has many offices overseas) directly. But you can get far better prices by organizing things yourself as you go along so, other than convenience, there's little benefit and a great deal of unnecessary cost to buying a package. Just about any tour operator will offer to tailor an itinerary to your needs, which means it will usually simply pass on the request to one of the state monoliths, and pass the result back to you. The benefit of dealing with a Chinese travel company directly is that you cut out the middleman, but if things go wrong, you will be unlikely to obtain any compensation whatsoever. If you book through a home tour operator, you can expect to obtain refunds and compensation if this becomes appropriate. In general, however, when organized through CITS, rail or air tickets for your next leg are reliably delivered to each hotel as you go. Be cautious when booking directly over the Web with a China-based travel service or "private" tour guide. Check that they are licensed to do business with foreigners, and confirm that there are no hidden costs. If you're set on a tour, and money is no object, then start with the list of tour companies below in the following sections, nearly all of which will arrange individual itineraries; or contact the CNTO to find properly registered Chinese agencies who may help you. The Hong Kong Tourism Board and the Macau Government Tourism Office, in whose territories the tourism industry is well regulated, can point you toward reputable operators and reliable licensed private guide.

Escorted General-Interest Tours

Escorted tours are structured group tours with a group leader. The price often includes everything from airfare to hotels, meals, tours, admission costs, and local transportation.

Escorted tours do not usually represent savings, but they do take the hassle out of travel arrangements and allow you to see as much as possible in the time you have. Foreign tour companies are required to work with licensed Chinese ground handlers, although some do book as much as they can directly. But even as markets become freer, most deals will continue to be made with the official state operators, if only for convenience. Please read the brochures with as much skepticism as you would read a Realtor's (one man's "scenic splendor" is another's "heavily polluted"), and read the following notes carefully.

Most tour companies peddle the same list of mainstream "must-sees" -- not all of which can hope to live up to the towering hype -- featuring Beijing, Xi'an, Shanghai, Guilin, and the Yangzi River, with some alternative trips to Tibet, Yunnan Province, or the Silk Routes.

When choosing a tour company for China, you must, of course, consider cost, what's included, the itinerary, the likely age and interests of other tour group members, the physical ability required, and the payment and cancellation policies, as you would for any other destination. But you should also investigate the following:

Shopping Stops -- These are the bane of any tour in China, designed to line the pockets of tour guides, drivers, and sometimes the ground handling company itself. A stop at the Great Wall may be limited to only an hour so as to allow an hour at a cloisonne factory. In some cases the local government owns the shop in question and makes a regulation requiring all tours to stop there. The better foreign tour operators design their own itineraries and have instituted strict contractual controls to keep these stops to a minimum, but they are often unable to do away with them altogether, and tour guides will introduce extra stops whenever they think they can get away with it. Other companies, particularly those that do not specialize in China, just take the package from the Chinese ground handler, put it together with flights, and pass it on uncritically. At shopping stops, you should never ask or accept your tour guide's advice on what is the "right price." You are shopping at the wrong place to start with, where prices will often be 10 times higher than they should be. Typically your guide, driver, and maybe even the tour leader, will split a 30% commission on sales. The "discount" card you are given marks you for yet higher initial prices and tells the seller to which guide commission is owed. So ask your tour company how many of these stops are included, and simply sit out those you cannot avoid.

Guides -- The ability, honesty and attitude of Chinese guides varies enormously, and while some can be highly informative and responsive to your needs, others follow a set program, repeating the same old spiel, no matter what the question, while hurrying you from shop to shop. Better companies vet their guides and will arrange a national guide who will escort you throughout the entire trip; this is great if you get a decent guide, but can be frustrating if not. Cheaper companies may not use guides at all, or may use different local guides as you reach new destinations. While many of the guides may not be that great, the variety, and possibility of landing the odd good guide, at least adds interest. Many guides will be reticent to discuss politics and you should be careful how you phrase potentially sensitive questions. It is also worth discussing with your operator where your guide will be from; in autonomous regions such as Tibet or Xinjiang it is far better to be escorted by a Tibetan or Uighur respectively, and this also helps to support the local community rather than just lining the pockets of national guides.

Ask your tour company if it will be sending along a guide or tour manager from your home country to accompany trip members and to supplement local guides. This is worth paying more for, as it ensures a smoother trip all-around, and it helps you get more authoritative information. Otherwise, you're better off bringing background reading from home. Conversely, guides in Hong Kong and Macau are often extremely knowledgeable and both objective and accurate with their histories.

Groups with Abercrombie & Kent (group tours and custom private tours, tel. 800/554-7061 in the U.S.; custom private tours tel. 0845/618-2200 in the U.K.; www.abercrombiekent.com) are typically composed of 12 to 18 participants (with a maximum of 24 persons), and tour leaders include Mandarin-speaking Westerners and Chinese, and local specialist guides. Tours have a historical and cultural focus and are upmarket, using China's very best hotels and direct contact with local artists, archaeologists, and colorful personalities.

The maximum group size with Adventure Center (tel. 800/228-8747 in the U.S.; www.adventurecenter.com) is 18 (typically 12) and both foreign and local tour leaders are used. The company offers a range of trip styles from more affordable grass-roots-style trips designed for younger participants to more inclusive trips using upgraded accommodations for those wanting to combine adventure and comfort. Itineraries include walks on stretches of the Great Wall, the Eastern Qing Tombs, and Chengde. Representatives can also be contacted in Australia, Canada and New Zealand. See the website for details.

Gecko's Adventures tours are aimed at a younger crowd (typically 20-40-year-olds) and tour leaders are locals with Gecko's training. Itineraries stick mainly but not entirely to the highlights, but these are more down-to-earth budget tours using smaller guesthouses, local restaurants, and public transport. Branches are located across Australia: tel. 03/9662-2700; fax 03/9662-2422; and now in the U.K. (tel. 0844/736-0175; geckosadventures.co.uk) and the U.S. (tel. 800/227-8747). For representatives worldwide, see www.geckosadventures.com.

General Tours World Traveler's (tel. 800/221-2216 in the U.S.; www.generaltours.com) small-group escorted tours are led by a handpicked team of English-speaking guides. Itineraries are experiential and culture-focused, and as such, shopping stops are kept to a minimum. There's a wide choice, including six different Yangzi cruises and tours covering the highlights of China plus Tibet or Japan.

With Laurus Travel (tel. 877/507-1177 in the U.S. and Canada, or 604/438-7718 in Canada; www.laurustravel.com) group sizes range from 10 to 20 people and a tour leader accompanies the tour from Canadian departure or from arrival in China. Laurus is a China-only specialist, but itineraries are mainstream.

Pacific Delight Tours (tel. 800/221-7179 in the U.S.; www.pacificdelighttours.com) are special tours for families with children and tours can be modified or extended to meet client needs. Top-range tours are accompanied by a bilingual tour manager from the West Coast onward, while others are locally hosted.

Peregrine Adventures (tel. 800/227-8747 in the U.S., or 03/8601-4444 in Australia; fax 03/8601-4422; www.peregrineadventures.com) designs its own programs and tour leaders are locals trained by the company. Trips include visits to private homes and smaller restaurants frequented by locals, and can include walks and bike rides.

Tour groups with R. Crusoe & Son (tel. 888/585-8555 in the U.S.; www.rcrusoe.com) are kept small and are accompanied by a Hong Kong Chinese and are joined by local guides at each stop. Tours include extras such as a visit to an area of the Forbidden City that is usually closed to the public, private visit to the Tang dynasty murals, and a view of Xi'an's Terra-Cotta Warriors at eye level, rather than just from the viewing gallery.

Groups range in size from 10 to 24 people with Ritz Tours (tel. 888/345-7489 in the U.S.; www.ritztours.com); parents often bring children. Ritz's own Shanghai office organizes the selection of local ground handlers -- a mixture of large and small companies, with a preference for those providing good English-speaking guides.

SITA World Tours (tel. 800/421-5643 in the U.S. and Canada; www.sitatours.com) has over 75 years of experience, SITA offers luxury, deluxe, and first class tours throughout China and the Orient, escorted by certified guides that are sensitive to the needs of the discerning traveler. SITA also guarantees its departures so there is never a concern in a tour canceling.

Swain Tours (tel. 610/896-9595 in the U.S.; fax 610/896-9592; www.swaintours.com) specializes in creating fully customized travel experiences to various destinations, including China. They're great for those seeking an off-the-beaten-path adventure.

Tauck World Discovery (tel.: 800/788-7885 in the U.S.; www.tauck.com) offers a 16-day itinerary in China, which features a 3-night Yangzi River cruise, upscale accommodations, and virtually all expenses included (five on-tour flights, 37 meals, admission to all sites and attractions, and so on).

Special-Interest Tours

As more and more people travel and become more discerning about what they want from their time away, specialized tours have become increasingly popular. Many of the traditional big players have jumped onto the bandwagon and present their own versions; however, you're better off going through an agency that focuses on just one or two specialties, rather than a jack-of-all-trades. The following are recommended.

Academic Trips & Language Classes

With Academic Travel Abroad (U.S.), groups are typically of 20 to 30 people and tour leaders are Mandarin-speaking Americans, with additional specialty study leaders. The company has been operating tours to China since 1979, and operates educational and cultural tours in China for The Smithsonian (educational, cultural) and National Geographic Expeditions (natural history, soft adventure). For more information, check the website at www.academic-travel.com, but book through individual sponsors. The Smithsonian: tel. 877/EDU-TOUR;fax 202/633-9250; http://smithsonianjourneys.org. National Geographic: tel. 888/966-8687;fax 202/342-0317; www.nationalgeographic.org/ngexpeditions.

Elderhostel (tel. 800/454-5768 in the U.S.; www.elderhostel.org) takes groups of around 20 people and tours are developed in cooperation with Chinese educational institutions. Excursions and activities supplement the educational theme of each course, and options include working vacations and an opportunity to teach English in Xi'an.

Adventure & Wellness Trips

Bike Asia(tel. 0773/882-6521 in China; www.bikeasia.com) is based out of Yangshuo in Guangxi province and is one of the best bike tour operators in the country. Bike Asia's Trail of the Dragon Tour was featured in National Geographic's 25 Best New Trips 2007, and they operate a host of other itineraries from Hainan to Mongolia.

Bike China Adventures, Inc., U.S.-based, with an office in China (tel. 800/818-1778 in the U.S.; fax 515/322-0300 in the U.S., or 01388-2266-575 in China; www.bikechina.com), is still one of the leaders in this field, with great organization and some of the best guides. Cycling group sizes range from one to eight participants, who have ranged in age from 18 to 86. The company is based in Chengdu and tours are accompanied by a bilingual local or foreign guide. More than 50 tours operate both around the company's Sichuan base, and further afield, always using local hotels, guesthouses, and restaurants so there's no camping or cooking.

Grasshopper Adventures(tel. 087/929-5208 in Thailand, 818/921-7101 in the US, 020/8123-8144 in the U.K., and 03/9016-3172 in Australia; www.grasshopperadventures.com) is a relatively new company that presents an interesting range of small group (maximum 12) adventurous tours across the country led by specialist Australian and European tour leaders with real in-depth knowledge and passion for their destinations. Many itineraries are unique, and Grasshopper also operates cycling and photography tours in China. Full disclosure: Simon Foster, who wrote this chapter, runs tours for Grasshopper in Taiwan, India, and along the Silk Road in China.

Myths and Mountains (tel. 800/670-MYTH in the U.S. or 775/832-5454; fax 775/832-4454; www.mythsandmountains.com) is an adventure travel company that specializes in getting inside the culture of a country. Their customized trips focus on the themes of China -- the culture and arts, religions and holy sites, ethnic groups and trade routes, and environment and how people have adapted to it. Tours range from the eastern coastal cities and villages all the way west and north into Tibet, Inner Mongolia, and other less-traveled areas, such as Guizhou, Yunnan, Sichuan, and Qinghai.

You might want to consider WildChina (tel. 8888/902-8808 in the U.S.; www.wildchina.com), one of the few online booking agencies I'd recommend for travel in China. Run by a returnee ABC (American-born Chinese) from Harvard, Wild China acts as a clearinghouse for specialized China tours. Great attention is paid to comfort and the site's collection of press articles is particularly encouraging. Wild China recently won National Geographic Adventure magazine's "Best Adventure Travel Company on Earth."

Food & Wine Trips

Mongol Global Tour Co. (tel. 866/225-0577 in the U.S. or 714/220-2579; www.mongolglobaltours.com) offers custom tours for adventurers, gourmet food and wine-lovers, lovers of culture, and more. Their tours offer many sites and experiences not generally offered and can be designed with economy in mind. There are local guides in each city and a national guide accompanies tours of 10 or more people. For specialty groups there is often an international guide as well.

Volunteer & Working Trips

i-to-i (tel. 0800/011-1156 in the U.K.; www.i-to-i.com) is the original volunteer travel company and offers a whole host of volunteer and working trips around China. For those keen to give something back, this is a great way to do it, and if you don't have the skills needed, you can learn them there. TEFL courses can be done online before you go, and they offer a host of placements and durations (from teaching primary school and university students to conservation placements -- a favorite being 2 to 4 weeks working on panda conservation near Xi'an).

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

In 2001 legislation was relaxed to the tune that homosexuality is no longer considered as a mental disorder in China. This was seen as a tacit declaration that homosexuality had been legalized and while much of China is still in denial, there is now a growing gay scene. Big cities, particularly Beijing, Shanghai, and Hong Kong, have gay bars, clubs, saunas, and massage parlors. For more information check out www.gay.com, and www.utopia-asia.com, the latter also publishes the Utopia Guide to China, which has details of the gay scene in 50 of the country's cities.

Tips for Senior Travelers

There are no special arrangements or discounts for seniors in China, with the exception of some familiar foreign brand-name hotels that may offer senior rates if you book in advance (although you'll usually beat those prices simply by showing up in person, if there are rooms available).

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

China doesn't yet have much in the way of eco-tourism, and indeed the large-scale domestic tourism market may look anything but sustainable. As awareness develops the younger generation is increasingly concerned with looking after their natural environs. And just because there isn't much specifically directed at eco-tourism in China, this doesn't mean you can't do your bit. Basic environmental measures such as not getting your hotel linen washed every day, recycling, and walking and cycling rather than taking motorized transport all help to minimize your impact, while buying locally produced crafts from the artisans themselves helps to support local economies.

Entry Requirements & Customs

 Passports

For an up-to-date, country-by-country listing of passport requirements around the world, go to the "Foreign Entry Requirement" Web page of the U. S. State Department at http://travel.state.gov.

Allow plenty of time before your trip to apply for a passport; processing normally takes 3 weeks but can take longer during busy periods (especially spring). And keep in mind that if you need a passport in a hurry, you'll pay a higher processing fee.

For Residents of Australia: You can pick up an application from your local post office or any branch of Passports Australia, but you must schedule an interview at the passport office to present your application materials. Call the Australian Passport Information Service at tel. 131-232, or visit the government website at www.passports.gov.au.

For Residents of Canada: Passport applications are available at travel agencies throughout Canada or from the central Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca).

For Residents of Ireland: You can apply for a 10-year passport at the Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.irlgov.ie/iveagh). Those under age 18 and over 65 can only apply for a 3-year passport.

For Residents of New Zealand: You can pick up a passport application at any New Zealand Passports Office or download it from their website. Contact the Passports Office at tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand, or 04/474-8100, or log on to www.passports.govt.nz.

For Residents of the U.K.: To pick up an application for a standard 10-year passport (5-year passport for children under 16), visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency or contact the United Kingdom Passport Service at tel. 0300/222-0000 or search its website at www.ips.gov.uk.

For Residents of the U.S.: Whether you're applying in person or by mail, you can download passport applications from the U.S. State Department website at http://travel.state.gov. To find your regional passport office, either check the U.S. State Department website or call the National Passport Information Center toll-free number (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information.

Visas

Mainland China -- All visitors to mainland China must acquire a visa in advance. Long-term visas are generally not granted at the border. Visitors to mainland China must have a valid passport with at least 6 months' validity and two blank pages remaining. Visa applications typically take 3 to 5 working days to process, although this can be sped up to as little as 1 day if you apply in person and pay an additional fee. "L" (tourist) visas are valid for between 1 and 3 months. Usually 1 month is granted unless you request more, which you may or may not get according to events in China at the time. Double and multiple entry tourist visas are also available at some consulates.

You should apply to your nearest consulate. It varies, but typically your visit must begin within 3 months of the date of issue. Note that although postal addresses are given below, some consulates (including all those in the U.S. and Canada) will only accept applications in person, and applications by post or courier must go through an agent, with further fees to be paid. Telephone numbers are given, but many systems are automated, and getting a human to speak to can be next to impossible; faxes and e-mail rarely get a reply.

Applying for a visa requires completion of an application form that can be downloaded from many consular websites or acquired by mail. Temporary restrictions may be placed, sometimes for years at a time, on areas where there is unrest, and a further permit may be required. This is currently the case with Tibet where travelers are required to book a tour with guide and driver to secure a permit. Do not mention Tibet or Xinjiang on your visa application, or it may be turned down.

Some consulates indicate that sight of an airline ticket or itinerary is required, or that you give proof of sufficient funds, or that you must be traveling with a group, while they happily carry on business with individuals who have none of this supporting documentation. Such statements provide a face-saving excuse for refusing a visa should there be unrest or political difficulties, or should Tibet or Xinjiang appear on the application.

One passport photograph is required, as well as one for any child traveling on a parent's passport.

The visa fees quoted below by country are the current rates for nationals of that country, and can change at any time. U.S. citizens applying for a double-entry visa in the U.K., for instance, are charged more than British citizens. Regulations may also vary. In addition to the visa fees quoted, there may be supplementary fees for postage, and higher fees can often be paid for speedier service. Payment must always be in cash or by money order.

Once you're inside China visas can usually be extended once for a maximum of 30 days at the Aliens Entry-Exit department of the Public Security Bureau (PSB) in most major towns and cities. Again visa extension processing times and requirements vary from place to place, and while some PSBs will issue an extension on the spot, others will take up to five working days to process. A passport photo, completed application form (available at the PSB), and the hotel receipt for that night are usually required, and some PSBs will only grant an extension if you have less than a week (or sometimes only three days) left on your current visa. See individual PSB listings for details. Extension costs also vary, but typically U.S. citizens pay ¥940, U.K. citizens ¥469, Canadians and Australians ¥160. If you have trouble getting an extension, local agencies can sometimes help, although they will charge a hefty fee.

Consulates in Australia -- Single-entry visas are A$40; double-entry A$60. Add A$50 per package dealt with by mail or courier, and a prepaid return envelope. Go to au.china-embassy.org for more information.

Consulates in Canada -- Single-entry visas are C$50; double-entry C$75. Visit www.chinaembassycanada.org for an application form. Applications must be delivered and collected by hand, or sent via a visa agency.

Consulates in New Zealand -- Single-entry visas are NZ$140; double-entry NZ$210. Add NZ$15 per package dealt with by mail or courier, and a prepaid return envelope. Go to www.chinaembassy.org.nz for more information.

Consulates in the United Kingdom -- Single-entry visas are £30; double-entry £45. There's a supplementary charge of £35 for each package dealt with by mail. Visit www.chinese-embassy.org.uk for an application.

Consulates in the United States -- Single-entry and double-entry visas are $130. Visit www.china-embassy.org, which has links to all U.S. consular sites and a downloadable application form. Applications must be delivered and collected by hand, or sent via a visa agency.

Consulates Elsewhere -- A complete list of all Chinese embassies and consulates can be found at the Chinese foreign ministry's website: www.fmprc.gov.cn/eng (or various mirror sites around the world). Click on "Missions Overseas."

Buying Visas in Countries Bordering China -- Note that the Chinese Consulate in Katmandu, Nepal, will not sell visas to individual travelers wanting to enter Tibet overland, or they may stamp the visa to prohibit overland entry via the Friendship Highway. The consulate in Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan, will usually refuse visas to those not holding a fax or telex from a Chinese state-registered travel agency, or they will stamp the visa to prohibit overland entry via the Torugart Pass. Obtaining visas at the consulate in Almaty can also sometimes be difficult for non-residents of Kazakhstan.

Buying Visas in Hong Kong -- The easiest place to apply for a mainland visa is Hong Kong, where there are several China visa options. Single-entry tourist "L" visas valid for 30 days are easily obtainable, as is the double-entry version. Multiple-entry "F" visas are also easy to obtain via visa agents and without the letter of invitation required to obtain them at home. Single-entry visas bought through Hong Kong agents typically cost HK$300, double-entry "F" visas around HK$500. Expect fees of twice this for British citizens and up to four times as much for US citizens.

Entering the Mainland from Hong Kong & Macau -- It is possible to buy a HK$100 5-day permit from the visa office on the second floor of the Chinese side of the Lo Wu border crossing from Hong Kong to Shenzhen, but this is valid for travel in the Shenzhen Special Economic Zone only. Similar short-term travel permits can also be arranged at Guangzhou East station if you arrive by direct express railway from Hong Kong, and on the mainland side of the crossing from Macau to Zhuhai.

Hong Kong Visas -- U.S., Canadian, Australian, and New Zealand citizens, and those of most other developed nations, are granted 90-day stays free on arrival. British citizens are granted 180 days. Passports should be valid for 1 month longer than the planned return date. In theory, proof of sufficient funds and an onward ticket may be demanded, but this request is almost unheard of.

Macau Visas -- U.S., Canadian, Australian, and New Zealand citizens are granted 30-day stays free on arrival. British and most other E.U. nationals can stay up to 90 days without a visa. Passports should have at least 30 days of remaining validity upon your arrival.

Customs

What You Can Bring Into China -- Generally, you can bring into China anything for personal use that you plan to take away with you when you leave, with the usual exceptions of arms and drugs, or plant materials, animals, and foods from diseased areas. There are no problems with cameras or video recorders, GPS equipment, laptops, or any other standard electronic equipment. Two unusual prohibitions are "old/used garments" and "printed matter, magnetic media, films, or photographs which are deemed to be detrimental to the political, economic, cultural and moral interests of China," as the regulations put it. Large quantities of religious literature, overtly political materials, or books on Tibet might cause you difficulties (having a pile of pictures of the Dalai Lama certainly will, if discovered), but in general, small amounts of personal reading matter in non-Chinese languages do not present problems. Customs officers are for the most part easygoing, and foreign visitors are very rarely searched. Customs declaration forms have now vanished from all major points of entry, but if you are importing more than $5,000 in cash, you should declare it, or theoretically you could face difficulties at the time of departure, although once again, this would be highly unlikely. Importing or exporting more than ¥6,000 in yuan is also theoretically prohibited, but again, it's never checked. Chinese currency is anyway best obtained within China (or in Hong Kong), and is of no use once you leave.

What You Can Take Home from China -- An official seal must be attached to any item created between 1795 and 1949 that is taken out of China; older items cannot be exported. But in fact you are highly unlikely to find any genuine antiques, so this is a moot point (and if the antiques dealer is genuine, then he'll know all about how to get the seal). There are no such prohibitions on exporting items from Hong Kong, where you can find reliable dealers with authentic pieces and a willingness to allow thermo-luminescence testing to prove it. Almost everybody is amazed at the number of cheap DVDs on sale in China. They are extremely tempting, especially compared to the prices at home. If discovered on arrival in your home country these may be confiscated, but more importantly, you should be aware that the producers of these discs are often the same gangsters who smuggle undocumented migrants in containers and sell females into sexual slavery; don't give them your money.

Australian Citizens -- A helpful brochure available from Australian consulates or Customs offices is Know Before You Go. For more information, call the Australian Customs Service at tel. 1300/363-263, or log onto www.customs.gov.au.

Canadian Citizens -- For a clear summary of Canadian rules, write for the booklet I Declare, issued by the Canada Border Services Agency (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

New Zealand Citizens -- Most questions are answered in a free pamphlet available at New Zealand consulates and Customs offices: New Zealand Customs Guide for Travellers, Notice no. 4. For more information, contact New Zealand Customs, The Customhouse, 17-21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington (tel. 0800/428-786; www.customs.govt.nz).

U.K. Citizens -- For information, contact HM Customs & Excise at tel. 0845/010-9000 (from outside the U.K., 020/8929-0152), or consult their website at www.hmce.gov.uk.

U.S. Citizens -- For specifics on what you can bring back and the corresponding fees, download the invaluable free pamphlet Know Before You Go online at www.cbp.gov. (Click on "Travel," and then click on "Know Before You Go").

Medical Requirements

If you will be arriving in mainland China from a country with yellow fever, you may be asked for proof of vaccination, although border health inspections are cursory at best.

Calendar of Events

China's festivals follow the traditional lunar calendar, and to increase confusion, some minority calendars operate according to different traditions. For conversion to solar/Gregorian calendar dates, try the website www.est-direct.com/china/lunarcal.php.

The Chinese tourism industry is increasingly inventing festivals to try to boost business. Unless indicated below, be wary of any festival with the word "tourism" in its name, for instance.

For an exhaustive list of events beyond those listed here, check http://events.frommers.com, where you'll find a searchable, up-to-the-minute roster of what's happening in cities all over the world.

January

Spring Festival (Chun Jie), Chinese New Year, nationwide. This is still the occasion for large lion dances and other celebrations in Hong Kong, Macau, and Chinatowns worldwide, but in mainland China it's mainly a time for returning home to feast. Fireworks are now banned in larger cities. Temple fairs have been revived in Beijing, but are mostly fairly low-key shopping opportunities. But in the countryside there's been a gradual revival of stilt-walking and masked processions. Spring Festival is on the day of the first new moon after January 21, and can be no later than February 20. February 14, 2010, and February 3, 2011.

Monlam Festival, throughout the Tibetan world (including at Xia He and Langmu Si). Monasteries are open to all, and there is religious dancing, the offering of torma (butter sculptures), and the "sunning of the Buddha" when a silk painting (thangka) is consecrated and becomes the living Buddha in the minds of believers. Typically, the festival culminates in the parading of the Maitreya Buddha through the town. Fourth to 16th days of the first lunar month (from Feb 18, 2010; from Mar 8, 2011; from Feb 25, 2012). Check dates with Qinghai Mountaineering Association (tel. 0971/823-8877). In Tibet check with Tibet Travel (tel. 0891/681-2516; www.tibettravel.com).

Kurban Bairam (Gu'erbang Jie), nationwide. Also known as the Festival of Sacrifice, this is celebrated by Muslims throughout China. It marks the willingness of the prophet Abraham to sacrifice everything to God, even his son Ishmael. Celebrations in Kashgar involve feats of tightrope-walking in the main square and wild dancing outside the Idkah Mosque. The 4-day festival is held 70 days after the breaking of the fast of Ramadan, on the 10th day of the 12th month (Dhul-Hijjah) in the Islamic calendar. It falls on November 7, 2010, and October 28, 2011, and annually shifts backward by 11 days.

February

Lantern Festival (Deng Jie), Pingyao and Quanzhou. This festival perhaps reached its peak in the late Qing dynasty, when temples, stores, and other public places were hung with fantastically shaped and decorated lanterns, some with figures animated by ingenious mechanisms involving the flow of sand. People paraded through the streets with lightweight lanterns in the shapes of fish, sheep, and so on, and hung lanterns outside their houses, often decorated with riddles. There are some signs of the festival's revival, including at Pingyao in Shanxi Province, and at Quanzhou in Fujian. The festival always falls 15 days after Spring Festival.

March

Hong Kong Sevens Rugby Tournament, Hong Kong. Known as "The Sevens," this is one of Hong Kong's most popular and one of Asia's largest sporting events, with more than 20 teams from around the world competing for the Cup Championship. Contact the Hong Kong Rugby Football Union at tel. 852/2504 8311 or www.hkrugby.com.hk. Fourth weekend in March.

April

Tomb-Sweeping Festival (Qingming), Hong Kong and Macau. Another festival frequently observed in Chinese communities overseas, and celebrated in more rural areas of China and in Hong Kong and Macau, Tomb-Sweeping is a family outing on a free day near the festival date. It's a day to honor ancestors by visiting and tidying their graves and making offerings of snacks and alcohol. April 3 to April 5 annually.

Sisters' Meal Festival (Zimeifan Jie), Taijiang, Shidong (Guizhou). Celebrated with lusheng (wind-instrument music) dancing and antiphonal singing, this is one of the prime occasions for young Miao men and women to socialize and find marriage partners. Elaborately dressed Miao women prepare packets of berry-stained glutinous rice to present to suitors. For exact dates, check with CITS Kaili (tel. 0855/822-2506; www.cits-kaili.cn). Fifteenth day of the third lunar month (usually Apr).

Water-Splashing Festival (Poshui Jie), Jinghong, Xishuangbanna. Extremely popular with Chinese tourists, the festive Dai New Year is ushered in with a large market on the first day, dragon-boat races on the second, and copious amounts of water-splashing on the third. Be prepared to get doused, but take heart because the wetter you are, the more luck you'll have. Mid-April.

Luoyang Peony Festival, Luoyang. Over 300 varieties of China's best peonies, first cultivated in Luoyang 1,400 years ago, are on display at the Wangcheng Park (Wangcheng Gongyuan), which is awash in a riot of colors. Two weeks in mid-April.

Weifang International Kite Festival, Weifang. The kite capital of the world hosts the largest kite-flying gala in China, as hundreds of thousands of kite lovers from around the world arrive for several days of competition and demonstrations. Check out www.weifangkite.com for more details. April 20.

Hong Kong International Film Festival, Hong Kong. Over 200 films from more than 40 countries are featured at this 2-week event. For more information, call tel. 852/2970 3300; or visit www.hkiff.org.hk. Two weeks in April.

Sanyue Jie (Third Month Fair), Dali. This biggest festival of the Bai people had its origins over 1,000 years ago when Buddhist monks and adherents gathered to celebrate the appearance of Guanyin (the Goddess of Mercy) to the Bai. Today's festival has become more secular as the Bai and other minorities from elsewhere in Yunnan gather in the foothills of the Green Mountains (Cang Shan) for 5 days and nights of singing, dancing, wrestling, horse racing, and large-scale trading. Ask CITS for more information on the precise dates (tel. 0872/216-6578). Fifteenth day of the third lunar month (usually mid-Apr or early May).

Cheung Chau Bun Festival, Hong Kong. This weeklong affair on Cheung Chau island is thought to appease restless ghosts and spirits. Originally held to placate the unfortunate souls of those murdered by pirates, it features a street parade of lions and dragons and Chinese opera, as well as floats with children seemingly suspended in the air, held up by cleverly concealed wires. The end of the festival is heralded by three bun-covered scaffolds erected in front of the Pak Tai Temple. These buns supposedly bring good luck to those who receive them. HKTB organizes tours of the parade; call tel. 852/2508 1234. Usually late April or early May, but the exact date is chosen by divination.

May

Saka Dawa festival is held throughout the Tibetan world, celebrating the life of Buddha. Koras (circuits) of holy lakes, mountains, and buildings are undertaken by the faithful. See the contact info for the Monlam Festival (Jan), above. Eighth to 15th days of the fourth lunar month.

Western Journey Festival (Xiqian Jie) marks the day in 1764 when the Qianlong emperor forced the Xibo people to move from their homeland in Manchuria to Qapqal County (southwest of Yining). Celebrations are marked by the devouring of a whole sheep cooked with coriander, preserved vegetables, and onions. Wrestling, horse riding, and archery contests evoke the Xibo's warrior ancestry. The festival is held on the 18th day of the fourth lunar month (late May to mid-June).

June

Dragon Boat Festival (Longzhou Jie), Shidong. With over 40,000 celebrants, this Miao minority festival, which bears no relation to the Han Dragon Boat Festival, commemorates the killing of a dragon whose body was divided among several Miao villages. Over the course of 3 days, dragon boat races are held in Shidong, Pingzhai, and Tanglong. For exact dates, check with CITS Kaili (tel. 0855/822-2506; www.cits-kaili.com); Twenty-fourth to 27th day of the fifth lunar month (usually June or early July).

Dragon Boat Races (Tuen Ng Festival), Hong Kong. Races of long, narrow boats, gaily painted and powered by oarsmen who row to the beat of drums, originated in ancient China, where legend held that Qu Yuan, an imperial adviser, drowned himself in a Hunan river to protest government corruption. His faithful followers, wishing to recover his body, supposedly raced out into the river in boats, beating their paddles on the surface of the water and throwing rice to distract water creatures from his body. There are two different races: The biggest is an international competition with 30 teams, held along the waterfront in Tsim Sha Tsui East; the following weekend, approximately 500 local Hong Kong teams compete, with races held at Stanley, Aberdeen, Chai Wan, Yau Ma Tei, Tai Po, and outlying islands. Contact HKTB at tel. 852/2508-1234. Forthcoming international race dates are June 16, 2010 and June 6, 2011. On the mainland, the festival is still celebrated at places connected with Qu Yuan, such as Zigui, Yichang, and Changsha. Fifth day of the fifth month

July

Jyekundo Horse Festival, south of Yushu, Qinghai. Khampa nomads gather for a spectacular 10-day celebration involving racing, exhibitions of equestrian skill, and horse trading. Contact Tibetan Connections (tel. 0971/820-3271; ww.tibetanconnections.com) for more details. Starts on July 25.

International Motorcycle Tourism Festival, Yinchuan. People from China and abroad ride/transport their motorcycles to Yinchuan. Motorcycle stunts and contests, exhibitions, and tourism activities (beware the last) make up the core activities. Held sometime between June and September; check with CITS (tel. 0951/671-9792) for exact details.

Lurol Festival, Tongren (Repkong). This marks the Sino-Tibetan peace treaty, signed in A.D. 822, with fertility dances and body piercing in honor of a local mountain deity, and has a pagan feel. Check with Qinghai Mountaineering Association, tel. 0971/823-8877. The 16th day of the sixth lunar month.

August

Naadam, across Inner Mongolia, including Hohhot (at the racetrack, Saima Chang, and the Hulun Buir Grasslands, outside Manzhouli). The festival features Mongolian wrestling, archery, and horse and camel racing, and occurs when the grasslands turn green. That's usually mid-August, but can be as early as July. Dates differ from place to place, and they don't coincide with (the People's Republic of) Mongolia's Naadam festival, which is tied to their National Day and always occurs from July 11 to July 13. For exact locations and dates contact Hohhot CITS (tel. 0471/680-1710).

Qingdao International Beer Festival, Qingdao. Over a million visitors descend on this seaside resort for its famous annual Bavarian bacchanal, which features everything from beer tasting and drinking contests for adults, to amusement-park rides for kids. Second week of August.

September

Formula One Racing, Shanghai. Every fall motor-sport fans can catch Formula One drivers zooming around a state-of-the-art track in the Shanghai suburb of Anting. The current contract expires in 2009, but a new deal is expected to secure the China Grand Prix for another five years. September to October.

International Shaolin Martial Arts Festival, Song Shan. Some patience may be necessary to negotiate the crowds of pugilists and Bruce Lee wannabes who show up to trade fists and demonstrate some truly jaw-dropping, gravity-defying martial arts skills. For details, call CITS (tel. 0371/6585-2326). Second week of September.

Mid-Autumn Festival (Tuanyuan Jie) is celebrated in Hong Kong, Macau, and Chinese communities overseas, but in mainland China the last remnant of the festival is the giving and eating of yuebing (moon cakes), circular pies with sweet and extremely fattening fillings. Traditionally it's a time to sit and read poetry under the full moon, but pollution in many areas has made the moon largely invisible. The 15th day of the eighth lunar month (usually Sept).

International Fashion Festival, Dalian. China's most famous fashion event is the Dalian Guoji Fuzhuang Jie. The 2-week gathering of mostly Asian garment producers offers an opening parade, a series of glamorous fashion shows held in the city's best hotels, and the sight of leggy models strutting downtown streets. Mid-September.

Confucius's Birthday, Qufu. China's Great Sage is honored with parades, exhibitions, and musical and dance performances that reenact some of the rites mentioned in the Analects (Lun Yu). If you wish to stay over during this time, book your hotel well in advance as decent accommodations are hard to come by. September 28.

October

Tsongkapa's Birthday, throughout the Tibetan world. The birthplace of the founder of the Geluk order of Tibetan Buddhism, Kumbum (Ta'er Si) (south of Xining) sees the liveliest festival. Religious dancing, mass chanting, and "sunning the Buddha" can be seen. Check with Kumbum (Ta'er Si; tel. 0971/223-2357). Twentieth to 26th days of the ninth lunar month (late Oct to early Nov).

November

International Festival of Folk Songs and Folk Arts, Nanning. Many of Guangxi's minorities, including the Zhuang, the Miao, and the Dong, gather for a colorful week of ethnic song and dance performances that some have criticized as being mere "urban reenactments." A visit to a village to see the minorities in their own environment is highly recommended, but if you're short on time, this explosion of song and dance will suffice. Check with CITS (tel. 0771/261-2027. First half of November.

Rozi Heyt (Rouzi Jie or Kaizhai Jie), nationwide. This holiday marks the end of the month-long Fast of Ramadan, and believers are keen for a feast. Presents are exchanged and alms are given to the poor. In Kazakh and Tajik areas this is often celebrated with a "lamb snatching" competition. A dead lamb is contested by two teams mounted on horses or yaks; the winning team succeeds in spiriting the lamb out of reach of their rivals. The festival is held for 4 days after the first sighting of the new moon in the 10th month (Shawwal) of the Islamic calendar. September 11 in 2010, moving backward by about 11 days each year.

December

Miao New Year Festival, Xinjiang, Langde (Guizhou). The Miao New Year is celebrated with songs, dances, bullfights, and lusheng competitions. For exact dates check with CITS Kaili (tel. 0855/822-2506; www.cits-kaili.com). End of the 10th lunar month (usually Dec).

Ice and Snow Festival, Harbin. Every year, tens of thousands of people travel from as far south as Guangdong and brave freezing cold to see the Ha'erbin Bingxue Jie. The city's streets come alive with elaborate ice sculptures equipped with internal wires that blaze to life at night. Most impressive is the Ice and Snow Palace, a life-size frozen-water mansion with multiple levels. From late December to whenever the ice begins to melt (usually late Feb).

Money

Frommer's lists exact prices in the local currency. However, rates fluctuate, so before departing consult a currency exchange website such as www.oanda.com/convert/classic to check up-to-the-minute rates.

It's always advisable to bring money in a variety of forms on a vacation: a mix of cash, credit cards, and traveler's checks. You should also exchange enough petty cash to cover airport incidentals, tipping, and transportation to your hotel before you leave home, or withdraw money upon arrival at an airport ATM.

Currency

Mainland China -- For most destinations it's usually a good idea to exchange at least some money before you leave home so you can avoid the less-favorable rates you'll get at airport currency-exchange desks. Mainland China is different. Yuan, also known as RMB (Renminbi, or "People's Money"), are not easily obtainable overseas, and rates are generally worse when they can be found.

There is no legal private money-changing in mainland China, and rates are fixed to be the same at all outlets nationwide on a daily basis. So change at the airport when you arrive, and then at branches of the Bank of China, or at desks administered by the bank in your hotel or at major department stores in larger cities. If you find a shop offering to change your money at other than a formal Bank of China exchange counter, they are doing so illegally, and you open yourself to shenanigans with rates and fake bills, which are fairly common. Even the meanest hole-in-the-wall restaurant has an ultraviolet note tester. Do not deal with black-market money-changers.

Hotel exchange desks will usually only change money for their guests, and they are open very long hours 7 days a week. Bank hours vary from province to province, so be sure to check.

In a bid to avert a trade war with the U.S., China allowed a 2% appreciation of the yuan in 2005. It is no longer pegged solely to the U.S. dollar, but rather a basket of currencies, in an arrangement known as a "crawling peg." The U.S. dollar has recently been trading around ¥6.80, the pound sterling at ¥11.20, and the euro at ¥9.50.

There are notes for ¥100, ¥50, ¥20, ¥10, ¥5, ¥2, and ¥1, which also appears as a coin. The word yuan is rarely spoken, and sums are usually referred to as kuai qian, "pieces of money," usually shortened to just kuai. San kuai is ¥3. Notes carry Arabic numerals as well as numbers in Chinese characters, so there's no fear of confusion. The next unit down, the jiao (¥.10), is spoken of as the mao. There are notes of a smaller size for ¥.50, ¥.20, and ¥.10, as well as coins for these values. The smallest and almost worthless unit is the fen (both written and spoken) or cent and, unbelievably, when you change money you may be given tiny notes or lightweight coins for ¥.05, ¥.02, and ¥.01, but this is the only time you'll see them except in the bowls of beggars or donation boxes in temples. The most useful note is the ¥10, so keep a good stock. Street stalls, convenience stores, and taxis are often not happy with ¥100 notes.

Keep receipts when you exchange money, and you can reconvert excess yuan into hard currency when you leave China, although sometimes not more than half the total sum for which you can produce receipts, and sometimes these receipts must be not more than 3 months old.

Hong Kong & Macau -- In Hong Kong the currency is the Hong Kong dollar (HK$), whose notes are issued by a variety of banks, although all coins look the same. It is pegged to the U.S. dollar at around HK$7.80 to US$1. Keep foreign exchange to a minimum at the airport (use the ATMs at departures level) or at other points of entry. Do not change in hotels or banks, but with money-changers, and choose money-changers away from the main streets for a significantly better rate. Banks have limited weekend hours, but money-changers are open every day.

Macau's official currency is the pataca (MOP$), pegged to the Hong Kong dollar (and thus to the U.S. dollar) at a rate of MOP$103.20 to HK$100 -- about MOP$8 to US$1. Hong Kong dollars are accepted everywhere, including both coins and notes (even on buses), but at par. If you arrive in Macau from Hong Kong for a short stay, there's little point in changing money beforehand.

ATMs

Unfortunately, while there are many ATMs in China, some won't accept foreign cards, and those that do tend to have a maximum limit of between ¥1,000 and ¥2,500 per transaction, but often allow a second transaction the same day. Check the back of your ATM card for the logos of the Cirrus, Maestro, MasterCard, Visa, and American Express; as long as your card has one of them it should work in Bank of China ATMs around the country. Beijing and Shanghai are both fairly well served, and have additional Citibank and HSBC machines, which take just about any card ever invented. Thus it is possible, as long as you plan ahead, to travel in China relying on ATMs -- just be sure to replenish your supplies of cash long before they run out, and have a couple of hundred U.S. dollars in cash as a backup. In Hong Kong and Macau there are ATMs everywhere that are friendly to foreign cards.

Note: Many banks impose a fee every time you use a card at another bank's ATM, and that fee can be higher for international transactions than for domestic ones. In addition, the bank from which you withdraw cash may charge its own fee. For international withdrawal fees, ask your bank.

Banks that are members of the Global ATM Alliance charge no transaction fees for cash withdrawals at other Alliance member ATMs; these include Bank of America, Scotiabank, Barclays, Deutsche Bank, and BNP Paribas.

Traveler's Checks

Traveler's checks are only accepted at selected branches of the Bank of China, at foreign exchange desks in hotels, at international gateways, and at some department stores in the largest cities. In the most popular destinations, checks in any hard currency and from any major company are welcome, but elsewhere, currencies of the larger economies are preferred, and hotels may direct all check-holders to the local head office of the Bank of China. U.S. dollars cash, in contrast, may be exchanged at most branches of almost any Chinese bank, so even if you plan to bring checks, having a few U.S. dollars cash (in good condition) for emergencies is a good idea. Checks attract a marginally better exchange rate than cash, but the .75% commission makes the result slightly worse (worse still if you paid commission when buying them). Occasionally, if the signature you write in front of the teller varies from the one you made when you bought the check, it may be rejected. In Hong Kong and Macau, checks are accepted at banks and money-changers in the usual way.

Credit Cards

Upscale hotels, restaurants, and some large tourist-oriented shops usually accept the full gamut of cards (American Express, Diners Club, MasterCard, and Visa), but outside of these places their use is limited. Although Visa and MasterCard signs abound, in many cases only the Chinese versions of the cards are accepted.

You can also obtain cash advances on your MasterCard, Visa, Diners Club, or Amex card from major branches of the Bank of China, with a minimum withdrawal of ¥1,200 and 4% commission, plus whatever your card issuer charges -- a very expensive way to withdraw cash, and for emergencies only. If you do plan to use your card while in China, it's a good idea to call your card issuer and let it know in advance.

All major credit cards are widely accepted in Hong Kong and Macau.

Emergency Cash

American Express also runs an emergency check cashing system, which allows you to use one of your own checks or a counter check (more expensive) to draw money in the currency of your choice from selected banks. This works well in major cities but it can cause confusion in less-visited spots, and the rules on withdrawal limits vary according to the country in which your card was issued. Consult American Express for a list of participating banks before you leave home.

If you're stuck in a province where banks are closed on weekends, you can have money wired from Western Union (tel. 800/325-6000; www.westernunion.com) to many post offices and branches of the Agricultural Bank of China across China. You must present valid ID to pick up the cash at the Western Union office. In most countries, you can pick up a money transfer even if you don't have valid identification, as long as you can answer a test question provided by the sender. This should work in Hong Kong but might cause difficulties in mainland China. Let the sender know in advance that you don't have ID.

When to Go

Weather details are given below and these certainly play a part in deciding when to go, but a far bigger factor in your calculations should be the movement of domestic tourists. Three days paid vacation are given to workers for three major holidays in the year. The dates of these celebrations are carefully chosen so that workers in Chinese companies always have 7 continuous days of vacation time, known as the "Golden Week." These national holidays were first started by the government for China's National Day in 1999 and are primarily intended to help expand the domestic tourism market, improve the national standard of living, and allow people to make long-distance family visits. During the longer public holidays, Chinese tourists take to the road in the tens or even hundreds of millions, crowding all forms of transportation, booking out hotels, and turning even the quietest tourist sights into seas of humanity. In part as a result of these Golden Weeks, the number of domestic Chinese tourists has shot from 280 million in 1990 to a whopping 1.4 billion in 2006, the majority of these being peasants from rural areas. This should give you a clear idea of how crowded many of the "must-see" spots have become. Of course, if you really want to get a feel for the size of China's population, then this is a fine time to travel; otherwise give public holidays a miss.

China has three Golden Week holidays: the May Day holiday, the National Day holiday, and the Spring Festival holiday.

Peak Travel Seasons

Chinese New Year (Spring Festival): Like many Chinese festivals, this one operates on the lunar calendar. Solar equivalents for the next three years should be February 14, 2010, February 3, 2011, and January 23, 2012. The effects of this holiday are felt from 2 weeks before the date until 2 weeks after, when anyone who's away from home attempts to get back, including an estimated 150 million migrant workers. Although tens of thousands of extra bus and train services are added, tickets for land transport are very difficult to get, and can command high prices on the black market (official prices also rise on some routes, and on ferries between Hong Kong and the mainland). Air tickets are usually obtainable and may even still be discounted. In the few days immediately around the New Year, traffic on long-distance rail and bus services can be light, but local services may dry up altogether. Most tourist sights stay open, although some shut on the holiday itself or have limited opening hours.

Labor Day & National Day: In a policy known as "holiday economics," the May 1 and October 1 holidays were expanded to 7 days each (including one weekend). However, these so-called "Golden Weeks" were anything but, and resentment at everyone having to travel at the same time led to the shortening of the May holiday to 3 days in 2008. Regardless of duration, these two holidays mark the beginning and end of the domestic travel season, and the twin peaks of leisure travel, with the remainder of May, early June, and September also busy. Most Chinese avoid traveling in the summer except to cooler high ground or an offshore island, usually on a weekend. If you're traveling independently, and have the flexibility, it's best to arrive at a larger destination before the holiday starts, and move on in the middle or after the end. The disposable income to fund travel is more often found in larger cities, so these tend to become quieter, easier to get around, and less polluted. Noted tourist destinations around the country will be extremely busy, however. In Hong Kong and Macau, these are only 1- or 2-day holidays introduced in 1997 and 1999 respectively.

University Holidays: Exact term dates are rarely announced far in advance, but train tickets can be difficult to obtain as the student populace moves between home and college. Terms run for 18 weeks with 2 weeks of exams, from the beginning of September to just before Spring Festival, and from just after the Spring Festival to the end of June.

Local Difficulties: China's main international trade fair occupies the last 2 weeks of April and October, and drives up hotel prices in Guangzhou, where it's held, and as far away as Hong Kong. In the summer, pleasant temperatures in the Northeast (slightly cooler than the rest of China) draw students on summer vacation (which makes train tickets hard to acquire), as well as large Chinese tour groups; it may not be the best time for your visit. The northeast's Dalian is also overbooked during the International Fashion Festival in September. Across China, midweek travel is always better than weekend travel, particularly true at destinations easily tackled in a weekend, such as Wutai Shan and Pingyao. Already tight government-imposed travel restrictions in Tibet tend to increase around the Monlam Festival (sometime mid-Jan to mid-Feb), Saka Dawa Festival (mid-May to mid-June), and around the present Dalai Lama's birthday (July 6). The border crossing between Hong Kong and the mainland at Lo Wu can take a couple of hours at holiday periods.

Climate

China is the fourth-biggest country in the world, with the second-lowest inland depression (Turpan) and some of its highest peaks (Everest and K2 are both partly in China). Its far northeast shares the same weather patterns as Siberia, and its far southwest the same subtropical climate as northern Thailand.

In the north, early spring and late autumn are the best times to travel, both offering warm, dry days and cool, dry evenings. During March and April winds blow away the pollution but sometimes bring sand from the Gobi and topsoil from high ground to the northeast of Beijing, increasingly desiccated by the mismanagement of water resources. The sky can at times turn a vivid yellow.

In the south, November to February brings a welcome drop both in temperature and in all-pervasive humidity, although in Hong Kong all public interiors and many private houses are air-conditioned year-round. The southeast coast is subject to occasional typhoons from June to September which can close down shops, services, schools, offices, and transport for up to 48 hours.

Central China has some of the country's bitterest winters along with searing summer temperatures which give the Yangzi cities of Chongqing, Wuhan, and Nanjing their epithet "The Three Furnaces."

Tibet has springlike temperatures but a blisteringly close sun in the summer, while the dry winters are far milder than most people expect, at least in Lhasa. The northwest has perhaps the greatest range of temperatures, with severe summers and winters alike, but it is also largely dry.

Holidays

Public holidays and their effects vary widely between mainland China and the two Special Administrative Regions, Hong Kong and Macau.

Mainland China -- A few years ago the Chinese were finally granted a 2-day weekend. Offices close, but stores, restaurants, post offices, transportation, sights and, in some areas, banks, all operate the same services 7 days a week. Most sights, shops, and restaurants are open on public holidays, but offices and anything government-related take as much time off as they can. Although China switched to the Gregorian calendar in 1911, some public holidays (and many festivals -- see below) are based on a lunar cycle, meaning their solar dates varying from year to year and precise dates often aren't given until the last minute. Holidays are New Year's Day (Jan 1), Spring Festival (Chinese New Year and the 2 days following it), Labor Day (May 1 plus up to 2 more weekdays and a weekend), National Day (Oct 1 plus up to 4 more weekdays and a weekend).

Hong Kong -- Saturday is officially a working day in Hong Kong, although many offices take the day off or only open for reduced hours. Weekend ferry sailings and other transport may vary, particularly on Sunday, when many smaller shops are closed and opening hours for attractions may also vary. Hong Kong gets many British holidays, traditional Chinese holidays, plus modern political ones added after 1997, but in shorter forms. Banks, schools, offices, and government departments are all closed on these dates, as are many museums: New Year's Day (Jan 1), Lunar New Year's Day (for the mainland Spring Festival, but in Hong Kong the day itself plus 2 more, and an extra Fri or Mon if 1 day falls on a Sun), Ching Ming Festival (Apr 5), Good Friday (usually early Apr, plus the following Sat and Easter Monday), Labor Day (May 1), Buddha's Birthday (1 day in May), Tuen Ng (Dragon Boat Festival, 1 day in June), Hong Kong SAR Establishment Day (July 1), Mid-Autumn Festival (1 day in Sept, usually moved to the nearest Fri or Mon to make a long weekend), National Day (Oct 1), Chung Yeung Festival (1 day in Oct), Christmas Day and Boxing Day (Dec 25, and the next weekday if the 26th is a Sat or Sun).

Macau -- Macau has the same holidays as Hong Kong except for SAR Establishment Day, but with the following variations: National Day is 2 days (Oct 1-2), All Souls' Day (Nov 2), Feast of the Immaculate Conception (Dec 8), Macau SAR Establishment Day (Dec 20), Winter Solstice (Dec 22), and Christmas Eve and Christmas Day (Dec 24-25).

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Although China has a large number of people with disabilities, provisions for the disabled are limited, and this can make travel difficult. As the economy booms, many cities resemble building sites, and uneven paving, unavoidable steps, and heavy traffic are all hindrances. Ideally you should travel in a specialist group or with those who are fully familiar with giving you whatever assistance you may need.

In theory, some major hotels in the largest cities have wheelchair-accessible rooms, but they are often not properly executed -- the door to the bathroom may be wider, or the bathroom suite lower, but not both, and other switches and controls may be out of reach. In spite of what the brochure or website says, you should call to confirm what is actually available.

Hong Kong has far better facilities for travelers with disabilities, which are listed in the tourist board's Hong Kong Access Guide for Disabled Visitors.

Getting Around

The first thing to do upon arrival at any Chinese destination is to buy a map for ¥3 to ¥5. Even though few of these are bilingual, and many are inaccurate, they're useful for navigation. Your hotel staff can mark on them where you want to go, and you can show the characters to the taxi driver or bus conductor. Although building numbers are given in this guide, they're of little use for directions. Everyone navigates by street names and landmarks.

By Plane

As Chinese businesses and individuals have more disposable income, air travel is becoming increasingly popular. To this end, China plans to build nearly 100 new airports by 2020 costing an estimated $64 billion. Even now, it is possible to fly to most of the destinations in this book, or if not, to take a flight to within a few hours' drive. However, this isn't good for the environment, and where possible you should try and use the efficient and extensive rail network.

Booking domestic flights before you arrive in China is advisable if you will be traveling during peak season, or have limited time; however, on most routes there is generally an oversupply of flights and booking a ticket a few days before your journey is easily arranged. If you do choose to book tickets before you travel there are a number of good online booking sites, the best of which is www.9588.com, which often has discounts of up to 50%.

While you can buy tickets between any two destinations served by Air China at any Air China office, you'll usually get a much better price from agents in the town from which you plan to depart. Prices are always better from agents than from the airline, even if they are next door to each other, and you can and should bargain for a lower price, and shop around. No agent with an online terminal connected to the Chinese domestic aviation system charges a booking fee. Agents sitting in four- and five-star hotels will not offer you the discounts they could, however. You need to look out in the street away from your hotel. You usually cannot get a refund on an unused ticket from anywhere except the agent where you bought it. Note that heading to or from the mainland Hong Kong and Macau are treated as international flights, with prices to match.

By Train

The train is still the best way to travel in China for many reasons. Railway journeys tend to be more scenic than endless highways, trains are more comfortable than even the best buses, and they also afford you the chance to wander around on longer journeys. Train stations tend to be located much closer to city centers than airports, and you also avoid the tedious airport waits. On sleeper services it is possible to avoid the cost of a hotel night, while still being able to spread out and relax. Do not underestimate the advantage of being able to lie down as you travel. No matter how long the journeys are, I have never seen a fellow passenger suffer from motion sickness, an affliction that is altogether too common on buses.

Though in backwater areas, slow trains can be primitive, intercity trains are usually air-conditioned and mostly kept very clean. There are 200kmph (125-mph) trains between Shenzhen and Guangzhou, 300kmph (188-mph) trains and tilting trains using British technology under trial; the world's highest line runs to Lhasa; and the world's first commercial maglev (magnetic levitation) line speeds from Shanghai to Pudong airport.

Seat Classes -- Given China's size, most intercity services are overnight (or sometimes over 2 nights), so sleeper accommodations are the most common. The best choice is soft sleeper (ruan wo), consisting of four beds in a lockable compartment, the two upper berths slightly cheaper than the lower ones. Berths have individual reading lights and a volume control for the PA system. Modern trains (including all Lhasa trains) have individual TVs for each berth. Hard sleeper (yiing wo) has couchettes, separated into groups of six by partitions, but open to the corridor. Berths are provided in columns of three and are cheaper as they get farther from the floor. The top berth has very little headroom and can be uncomfortably cramped for foreigners, although it offers the most privacy. While the bottom berth is the most spacious, it also becomes public seating for the middle and upper berths during daylight hours. Lights go off at about 10pm and on again at 6am. Thermoses of boiled water are in each compartment and group of berths, refilled either by the attendants or by you from a boiler at the end of each car. Bring your own cup or get one of the clear plastic tea flasks that many Chinese carry and are widely available in supermarkets. Bed linens are provided in both classes.

More modern trains have a mixture of Western (usually at the end of the soft sleeper carriage) and Chinese squat toilets. Washbasins are found at the end of each carriage, and except on the highest-quality trains, there's cold water only (and this may sometimes run out). A tiny handful of trains have deluxe soft sleeper (gaoji ruan wo), with two berths in a compartment (Kowloon-Shanghai and Kowloon-Beijing, for instance), and in the case of some trains on the Beijing-to-Shanghai run, these compartments have private bathrooms.

Almost all trains also have a hard seat class (yiing zuo), which on many major routes is now far from hard, although not the way to spend the night. Soft seat (ruan zuo) appears on daytime expresses only, is less crowded, and is now often in two-deck form, giving excellent views.

Types of Trains -- Where possible, choose a train with a C, D, Z, or T prefix. C and D trains are new, high-speed intercity services with all the latest amenities. Z (zhida) trains are the next level down, but still fast and very comfortable, while T (tekuaai) are the expresses, and still come with high levels of accommodations and service. Staff in all of these classes may be uniformed and coiffed like flight attendants, willing and helpful. K trains (kuaaisu -- "quick speed") are more common, and nearly as good. Occasionally Y trains (luyou, services for tourists) and L trains (linshi, temporary additional services, particularly at Spring Festival), can be found. The remaining services with no letter prefixes vary widely in quality across the country, from accommodations as good as that on K trains but at slower speeds, to doddering rolling stock on winding, out-of-the-way lines and with cockroaches and mice for company (no extra charge).

Timetables -- A national railway timetable can be found for sale at stations in larger cities, updated twice a year, and some regional bureaus produce their own, or smaller summaries of the most important trains. All are in Chinese only, and most are so poorly organized that they are initially incomprehensible even to most Chinese. Rail enthusiast Duncan Peattie produces an annual English translation of the October edition of the national timetable. At $20 for the PDF format (or $40 for an A4), it is a very useful addition to the reference selection of independent travelers. Download it from www.chinatt.org.

Timetables for a particular station are posted in its ticket office, and can be read by comparing the characters for a destination given in this book with what's on the wall. The best trains between selected locations are also given in this book, but be aware that train numbers (and times) are subject to change.

Tickets -- Rail ticket prices are fixed by a complicated formula involving a tiny sum per kilometer, and supplements for air-conditioning, speed, and higher classes of berth (soft sleepers are typically a third more expensive than hard sleepers). Prices, samples of which are given throughout this book, are not open to negotiation. In my experience, hard sleeper berths are quite acceptable for short overnight trips of 12 hours or so. For longer journeys of 24 hours or more, I usually spend the extra for a soft sleeper.

Ticket offices always have a separate entrance from the main railway station entrance. In a few larger cities, there are separate offices for VIPs and foreign guests, or just for booking sleepers. Payment is only in cash. Depending on the route, bookings can be made between 10 days and 2 days in advance.

Most seats on an individual train are sold at its point of departure, with only limited allocations kept for intermediate stops depending on their size and importance. Thus your best choice of train is generally one that is setting off from where you are. With the exception of public holidays, tickets are seldom difficult to obtain, but you may not get the exact train, class or berth you want. If you can only obtain a hard sleeper (or seat) ticket but want a soft sleeper, you can attempt to upgrade on the train. A desk for this purpose is in the middle of the train.

The simplest way to book tickets is via a travel agent. The few with terminals accessing the railway system charge ¥5 commission. Most others charge around ¥30 to ¥50, which should include delivery to your hotel. Agents within hotels often try to charge more. It's best to give agents a choice of trains and berth. You pay upfront, but the exact ticket price, printed clearly on the ticket, will depend on the train and berth obtained. Advance booking from overseas is possible through CITS and some other agents at large markups, and so are not advised. Contact your local China National Tourist Office to find agents if you must. In Hong Kong, China Travel Service sells tickets for the expresses from Kowloon to Guangzhou, Beijing, and Shanghai with no commission, and tickets for a selection of trains between other Chinese cities for a reasonable markup. Never use online agents, either Hong Kong or mainland based, as they charge up to 70% more than they should.

You'll need your ticket to get to the platform, which will only open a few minutes before the train's arrival (if you buy a soft sleeper ticket, you may be able to use the VIP guii bin waiting room, but some stations now charge to enter these facilities, regardless of the ticket you have). On the train, the attendant will swap your ticket for a token with your berth number. Shortly before arrival, she will return to re-exchange it (you never miss your stop in China). Keep the ticket ready, as it will be checked again as you leave the station.

Refreshments -- Attendants push carts with soft drinks, beer, mineral water, and instant-noodle packages through all classes at regular intervals. Separate carts bring through kuaai can (fast food) in cardboard boxes. This is usually dreadful, and costs ¥15. Licensed carts on platforms often sell freshly cooked local dishes, which are slightly better, and they also offer fresh fruit in season. All overnight trains have dining cars, but the food is usually overpriced and not that tasty. It's best to bring a supply of what pleases you, bought in convenience stores, supermarkets, and bakeries.

Comfort & Safety -- Berths aren't that big (approximately .6m wide by 2m long/2 ft. wide by 6 ft. 4 in. long), but they are reasonably comfortable (particularly soft sleeper). However, while some people (notably Chinese snorers) find the gentle (and sometimes not so gentle) motion of the train sends them to sleep, others struggle to get a decent night's rest. Earplugs are a good idea, although sleeping pills may be the only solution for insomniacs.

In the hundreds of overnight Chinese rail journeys I've made, I have never had anything stolen. Take sensible precautions as you would anywhere, and keep vital items (passport/money, and so on) close to you, but there is certainly no need for paranoia.

By Bus

China's highway system, nonexistent 20 years ago, is growing rapidly, and journey times by road between many cities have been dramatically cut to the point where on some routes, buses are now faster than trains. Although most buses are fairly battered, in some areas they offer a remarkable level of luxury -- particularly on the east coast, where there are the funds to pay for a higher quality of travel. Some buses even have on-board toilets (although they may not work) and free bottled water.

Many bus stations now offer a variety of services. At the top end are kongtiao (air-conditioned) gaosu (high-speed, usually meaning that toll expressways are used) haohua (luxury) buses, on which smoking is usually forbidden and that rule is largely enforced, at least in urban areas. These tickets are usually easy to obtain at the bus station, and prices are clearly displayed and written on the ticket. There are no extra charges for baggage, which in smaller and older buses is typically piled up on the cover over the engine next to the driver. It's worth booking a day ahead to get a seat at the front, which may have more legroom and better views.

Buses usually depart punctually, pause at a checking station where the number of passengers is compared with the number of tickets sold in advance, then dither while empty seats are filled with groups waiting at the roadside who bargain for a lower fare.

While both bus and train travel afford the chance to meet locals, one of the biggest frustrations of taking the bus is often the other passengers. Many of the rural population are unused to travel and get sick very quickly. Although sick bags are provided, people still tend to puke on the floor, or down their trouser leg or lean across you so that they can vomit out of the window. Some coach companies have started handing out complimentary travel sickness pills, but rather than reassure you this will probably mean that this particular trip is going to be a long and unpleasant one.

Sleeper buses, although cheaper, should generally be avoided when an overnight train is an alternative. Usually they have three rows of two-tier berths, which are extremely narrow and do not recline fully.

Transport can vary widely in quality in rural and remoter areas, but it is often dirty and decrepit, and may be shared with livestock.

By Car (Taxi)

While foreign residents of China go through the necessary paperwork, with the exception of one rental operation at Beijing's Capital Airport, self-drive for foreign visitors is not possible, and without previous experience, the no-holds-barred driving style of China is nothing you want to tackle. Renting a vehicle is nevertheless commonplace, but it comes with a driver. Hong Kong and Macau are so small that there's simply no point in renting a car and facing navigational and parking difficulties, when plentiful, well-regulated taxis are available.

All larger mainland hotels have transport departments, but book a vehicle from a five-star Beijing hotel to take you to the Eastern Qing Tombs, for instance, and you may be asked for ¥1,200. Walk outside and flag down a taxi (not those waiting outside), and you can achieve the same thing for a quarter of the price. Branches of CITS and other travel agencies will also be happy to arrange cars for you, but at a hugely marked-up price.

Despite the language barrier, bargaining with taxi drivers is more straightforward than you might expect. Most areas have far more taxis than there is business, and half- and full-day hires are very welcome. Start flagging down cabs the day before you want to travel, and negotiate an all-in price, using characters  written down for you by your hotel receptionist (times, pickup point, and other details), and a pen and paper (or calculator) to bargain prices. Avoid giving an exact kilometer distance, since if you overrun it (and with China's poor road signage and the drivers' lack of experience outside their own town centers, you may well get lost), there will be attempts to renegotiate. For the same reason, it's best to avoid being precise to the minute about a return time, but note that especially in big cities drivers sometimes have to be back in time to hand the car to the man who will drive it through the night. Be prepared to pay road tolls, and ensure that the driver gets lunch. If you find a driver who is pleasant and helpful, take his mobile phone number and employ him on subsequent days and for any airport trips.

10 Rules for Taking Taxis around Town

1. Never go with a driver who approaches you at an airport. Leave the building and head for the stand. As they are everywhere else in the world, airport taxis are the most likely to cause trouble, but drivers who approach you are usually hei che -- illegal and meterless "black cabs."

2. Cabs waiting for business outside major tourist sights, especially those with drivers who call out to foreigners, should generally be avoided, as should cabs whose drivers ask you where you want to go even before you get in. Always flag down a passing cab, and 9 times in 10 the precautions listed here will be unnecessary.

3. If you're staying in an upmarket hotel, do not go with taxis called by the doorman or waiting in line outside. Even at some famous hotels, drivers pay kickbacks to the doormen to allow them to join the line on the forecourt. Some cabs are merely waiting because many guests, Chinese and foreign alike, will be out-of-town people who can be easily misled. Instead, just walk out of the hotel and flag down a passing cab for yourself. Take the hotel's business card to show to a taxi driver when you want to get back.

4. Better hotels give you a piece of paper with the taxi registration number on it as you board or alight, so that you can complain if something goes wrong or retrieve items mistakenly left in the cab.

5. Look to see if the supervision card, usually with a photo of the driver and a telephone number, is prominently displayed. If it isn't, you may have problems and you should choose another cab.

6. Can you clearly see the meter? If it's recessed behind the gear stick, partly hidden by the artfully folded face cloth on top, choose another cab.

7. Always make sure you see the meter reset. If you didn't actually see the flag pushed down, which shouldn't happen until you actually move off, then you may end up paying for the time the cab was in the line.

8. If you are by yourself, sit in the front seat. Have a map with you and look as if you know where you are going (even if you don't).

9. Rates per kilometer are usually clearly posted on the side of the cab. They vary widely from place to place, as well as by vehicle type. Flagfall, not usually more than ¥10, includes a few kilometers; then the standard kilometer rate begins. But in most towns, after a few more kilometers, the rate jumps by 50% if the driver has pushed a button on the front of the meter. This is for one-way trips out of town, and the button usually should not be pushed, but it often is.

10. Pay what's on the meter, and don't tip -- the driver will insist on giving change (although in some cities they will round up or down to the nearest yuan). Always ask for a receipt. Should you leave something in a cab, there's a remarkably high success rate at getting even valuable items back if the number on the receipt is called, and the details on it provided.