Planning a trip to Christchurch
Visitor Information
The Christchurch & Canterbury i-SITE Visitor Centre is temporarily located in the foyer of the Chateau on the Park Hotel on the corner of Deans Avenue and Kilmarnock Street, Riccarton -- a 15-to 20- minute walk through Hagley Park from the inner city (tel. 03/379-9629; fax 03/377-2424; www.christchurchnz.com). It's open daily from 8:30am to 5pm (closed Dec 25). Keep an eye on their website for possible location changes. Useful websites are www.bethere.org.nz or www.whatsonchristchurch.co.nz.
City Layout
Cathedral Square (also known as the Square) is the center point around which the main roads are laid out in a grid system, surrounded by four main avenues - Bealey, Moorehouse, Deans, and Fitzgerald. The winding Avon River meanders 24km (15 miles) from the west of Christchurch, through the city and out to sea. The Port Hills, south of the city, are an ever-present landmark from which you can always get your bearings. Colombo Street is the main street running north-south to the Port Hills. Note, however, that since the earthquakes some central city roads will remain closed during repairs. Cordons are changing all the time, so be prepared for some re-routing.
Christchurch -- A Shaken City
On September 4, 2010, at 4:35am, Christchurch residents were shaken awake by a violent 7.1 earthquake. The quake caused extensive physical damage but no lives were lost. That all changed 5 months later, when the city was struck by an even more devastating 6.3 quake at 12:51pm on February 22, 2011. The central city, the port town of Lyttelton, Sumner village, and several eastern residential suburbs suffered massive destruction and 182 people died. The city business district was in complete lockdown for many months, but despite ongoing aftershocks, significant progress has been made to get the city back on its feet. Infrastructure, hotels, restaurants, nightlife, and shops took a severe hit, but there are still plenty of options for visitors on the west side of the city; and many key attractions for the region lie well outside the city in Akaroa, Hanmer, Kaikoura, and South Canterbury, which are unaffected by the earthquakes.
There were over 6,000 businesses and 54,000 employees in the inner city prior to the quakes. Nearly 75% of those have now opened elsewhere. Around 1,000 inner city commercial buildings and 300 more in the suburbs, many of them architectural icons, will have been demolished by the time this book reaches the shelves. The city cordons are reducing all the time, as those demolitions are completed, and while pockets of the business district will remain off-limits, others will be open. Cashell Mall will open first and will act as a gateway to the rest of the city centre. Re-locatable, expo-style structures will be placed in the mall for retailers and hospitality businesses, which are not able to open in their former premises. This will be in the area bounded by Oxford Terrace and Hereford, Colombo, and Lichfield streets. But Christchurch is constantly changing since the quakes and by the time you read this, more of the city will probably be open. If you are planning a visit here, it is vitally important that you check on the current status of the city and its infrastructure. A good source of information is Christchurch i-SITE Visitor Centre, at Christchurch Airport Domestic Terminal (tel. 03/353-7744; www.christchurchnz.com). At press time, their central-city premises were in temporary buildings on the Botanic Gardens' lawn on Rolleston Avenue; their new permanent location will be next to the Canterbury Museum, at the entrance to the Botanic Gardens. Their website is the best first stop.
The shopping centers of Lyttelton over the Port Hills and the city commercial suburb of Sydenham will be the first to be rebuilt. About 60 of the city's 150 suburban centers, which range from large malls to small shopping blocks, were damaged in the February quake. In the meantime, much of the social and commercial business of the city is now conducted in the largely unaffected suburbs of Riccarton (west of Hagley Park), Merivale, and Papanui (north of central city), and Ferrymead in the east, near Sumner. At time of writing, there were still 26 major city attractions and activities operating, plus eight hotels, 10 lodges and apartment blocks, 105 motels, 17 holiday parks, 15 backpacker lodges, and 70 B&Bs in full operation, providing a total of 7,100 guest beds. There are another 11,500 guest beds available in the greater Canterbury region, so you don't need to worry about not having a place to stay. Earthquake damage is very localized and most of the region is unaffected, so there is no need to cancel your holiday. Just keep checking www.christchurchnz.com for constant updates. This particularly applies to public transport systems. Limited bus services resumed within weeks of the quakes and these will be extended by 2012.
Getting There
By Plane
Christchurch has frequent air service from all major centers via Air New Zealand (tel. 0800/737-000; www.airnewzealand.co.nz) and Air New Zealand Link. Christchurch International Airport is 10km (6 miles) from Cathedral Square and it receives direct flights from several countries. It is currently half-way through a NZ$237-million upgrade. The first stage—a new, joint domestic and international check-in hall and first floor food court and retail space—opened in May 2011. New baggage claim areas and aircraft docking areas will be completed by September 2012. The project is slated for completion by 2013. The terminal features everything travelers will need, including boutique shopping, a large food hall, ATMs, currency exchange, help desks, Internet access (with 30 min. free Wi-Fi), car-rental counters, baggage wrapping and storage facilities, postal services, and a Time-Out Zone in the international terminal. The Travel and Tourism Centre (tel. 03/353-7774; www.christchurchairport.co.nz) can help with accommodation, adventure, and transport bookings at no charge. The Christchurch i-SITE Visitor Centre (tel. 03/353-7774;www.christchurchnz.com), also has an outlet at the airport. For further international airport details, check www.christchurchairport.co.nz.
Several shuttle companies operate between the airport and Central City. Super Shuttle (tel. 0800/748-885 in NZ; www.supershuttle.co.nz) runs daily 24 hours and charges NZ$18 to NZ$25. The Red Bus Free City Shuttle Service (tel. 0800/733-287 in NZ; www.redbus.co.nz) has bright yellow shuttle buses that depart from the airport every 15 minutes between 7am and 10pm. Its current city terminus locations are, at time of writing, at the Hospital (Parkside), on Hagley Avenue between St. Asaph Street and Riccarton Avenue; and at temporary stop locations on the south side of Bealey Avenue between Durham Street North and Montreal Street. Keep an eye on the Red Bus website for transportation updates during the city rebuild. For a 20-minute taxi ride from the airport, call First Direct (tel. 03/377-5555), Gold Band (tel. 0800/379-5795), or Green Cabs (tel. 0508/447-336). The fare to Central City should be NZ$40 to NZ$65.
By Train & Coach (Bus)
Train service to and from Christchurch has been greatly reduced as railway companies consolidate their operations. The TranzAlpine (Greymouth), and the TranzCoastal (Picton) are the only two still running. For information, call Tranz Scenic at (tel. 0800/872-467 in NZ, or 03/341-2588; www.tranzscenic.co.nz). The Christchurch Railway Station is on Clarence Street, in Addington. Regular shuttles run from the station to the city.
InterCity (tel. 0800/468-372 in NZ, or 03/365-1113; www.intercity.co.nz) covers most of the South Island, offering service between Christchurch, Dunedin, Fox and Franz Josef Glaciers, Greymouth and the West Coast, Wanaka, Queenstown and Mount Cook, Invercargill, Timaru, Picton, and Kaikoura. At press time, InterCity buses were departing from 126 Bealey Ave. There is an airport drop-off for those traveling north (from Queenstown, for example) on InterCity’s Great Sights and Newmans buses. Great Sights is taking people directly to the airport (approximately a 7:30pm drop off) and Newmans is taking passengers to the International Antarctic Centre, which is a short walk from the airport. If you prefer something cheaper, consider joining the younger, backpacking crowd and go with Kiwi Experience (tel. 09/369-9410; www.kiwiexperience.com). Their service to Kaikoura is currently picking up from two Christchurch locations: the International Antarctic Centre, 38 Orchard Rd., near the airport (4pm); and the corner of Bealey Avenue and Papanui Road (2pm). Queenstown travelers will be dropped at the Antarctic Centre at approximately 4pm before the service continues to Kaikoura. Note these arrangements are likely to change, so check the website for updates.
By Car
If you’re coming from the north, you’ll drive in on State Highway 1 and enter the city through the northwest suburbs of Papanui and Merivale. It’s 4 to 5 hours from Picton and 2 1/2 hours from Kaikoura. From Dunedin, via Timaru and Ashburton, you’ll also be on State Highway 1. It takes 5 hours from Dunedin, 2 from Timaru. From the southwest, via Lake Tekapo and Geraldine, travel on Highway 79 to Highway 77 and then Highway 73; this takes you to Mount Hutt and over the Rakaia River. If you’re coming from the West Coast, you’ll go over Arthur’s Pass and enter Christchurch at Upper Riccarton. This trip takes 4 hours. Christchurch is 366km (227 miles) north of Dunedin, 350km (217 miles) south of Picton, and 254km (157 miles) southeast of Greymouth.
Neighborhoods in Brief
Fendalton
This is the heart of Christchurch conservatism and money—the southern equivalent of Auckland’s Remuera. You’ll find wonderful old homes and beautiful tree-lined streets, but its retail center is small, unimaginative, and easily bypassed altogether in favor of Merivale shopping. You’ll find few accommodations in this area.
Merivale/Papanui
Those among the moneyed set who consider themselves a little more contemporary throng to Merivale to shop and eat. Located between Papanui and the inner city, Merivale is an attractive suburb, close to the heart of things; it offers a good number of B&Bs along with "Motel Mile," which stretches south along Papanui Road from Merivale Mall to Bealey Avenue. Always safe, in all senses of the word, it is a pleasant place to be, and you can walk here from the heart of the city in about 30 minutes. Papanui is a little further north on Papanui Road. This is where you’ll find the large shopping mall of Northlands and a few cafes and bars.
St. Albans
This older suburb lies adjacent to Merivale to the east—some would call it the poor man’s Merivale, but now that most of the old villas have been significantly renovated, real-estate prices are a little out of the "poor" league. There is no real retail heart here and just a few lodgings—predominantly at the Bealey Avenue end of the suburb, where there is another good selection of motels.
Inner City
While the core of the central city was badly damaged in the 2010 and 2011 earthquakes, some businesses, attractions, cafes, and accommodations are operating in un-cordoned areas. More will come on stream as the city rebuild gets underway. If you can, stay in the area bounded by the four main avenues: Deans, Bealey, Moorehouse, and Fitzgerald, as it will put you in a good position to walk to most places.
Hagley Park/Botanic Gardens
Theoretically still the inner city, this compact area just west of the central business district is easily defined by its proximity to Hagley Park and the Botanic Gardens. It is generally the area west of Montreal Street, along Park Avenue, and through to Deans Avenue on the west side of the park. You’ll find excellent accommodations and some of the major attractions, such as the Canterbury Museum and the new Art Gallery. It’s a 5-to 10-minute walk along Worcester Boulevard to the Square.
Riccarton/Ilam
Riccarton is on the western side of Hagley Park, and since the earthquakes, it has become an important retail and entertainment center. It has a huge shopping mall, a proliferation of cheap Asian restaurants, plus general shopping, and lots of motels and cafes. The area between Riccarton and Fendalton is known as Ilam, and this is where you’ll find Canterbury University tucked into a beautiful leafy enclave.
Sumner/Ferrymead
Once a holiday spot for Christchurch residents, Sumner has long since become a suburb of the city itself. It’s a delightful place about 15 to 30 minutes from the city depending on traffic. The neighborhood is characterized by steep hillsides dotted with prime real estate with stunning views of the city and coast, as well as by quaint holiday homes that still sit near the beach. It’s easily accessed by bus. Unfortunately, the village was badly battered in the earthquakes and many of its shops, cafes, and restaurants have been seriously damaged or demolished. But it’s still a great place to visit in summer, when young surfers gather on The Esplanade, and there’s volleyball and beach fun aplenty.
On the way to Sumner, you pass the shopping area of Ferrymead, which, as a result of the quakes, has become the primary restaurant, bar, cafe, and shopping area for this part of the city.
Lyttelton
This is a quaint port village over the Port Hills from Christchurch, a 20-to 30-minute drive away. Sadly, it too was severely damaged in the earthquakes and much of its main street has been demolished. The good new is that it is also one of the first suburban areas scheduled for rebuilding so by the time this book reaches the shelves, it may well be up and running again. Regardless, it’s still an interesting half-day trip to drive through the tunnel to see the South Island’s largest port. The port was extensively damaged during the earthquakes and to keep it running, it is now being extended, using millions of tons of city earthquake rubble to reclaim land at the north end of port.
Fast Facts
Area Code -- The telephone area code (STD) is 03.
Currency Exchange -- The best place for currency exchange currently is at Christchurch Airport, where Travelex has six stores providing service. Banks are open Monday through Friday from 9am to 4:30pm, and ATMs are located in all major suburban shopping malls.
Dentist -- For urgent dental care call the NZ Dental Association (tel. 03/366-6644, ext. 3002) to find an available after-hours dentist.
Doctors -- For referrals, emergencies, or medical care, contact After Hours Surgery, Colombo Street and Bealey Avenue (tel. 03/365-7777).
Emergencies -- Dial tel. 111 to call the police, report a fire, or request an ambulance.
Hospitals -- Christchurch Hospital, Oxford Terrace and Riccarton Avenue (tel. 03/364-0640), has an Accident and Emergency Department.
Internet -- There are Internet services at Christchurch Airport, at city and suburban libraries, and many cafes.
Pharmacy -- Urgent Pharmacy, 931 Colombo St., at the corner of Bealey Avenue (tel. 03/366-4439), should cover all your needs.
Post Office -- There is a Post Shop at The Palms Mall in Shirley and another at Merivale Mall on Papanui Rd.
Services for Travelers with Disabilities -- Contact Disability Information Service, 314 Worcester St. (tel. 03/366-6189; fax 03/379-5939; dis@disinfo.co.nz), open Monday through Friday from 9am to 4:30pm.
When to Go
Climate
Christchurch has warmer and drier summers (Dec–Mar) than much of the rest of the South Island, but temperatures don't rise much higher than 22°C (72°F). Winters (June–Aug) can be colder, and despite being at sea level, the city sometimes sees snow. However, temperatures tend to hover in the single figures rather than dipping below freezing.
Special Events
Christchurch is the festival capital of New Zealand -- no matter when you visit, it's bound to coincide with a festival of some sort. The World Buskers Festival (tel. 03/377-2365; www.worldbuskersfestival.com), from mid- to late January, is the largest street performance festival in the Southern Hemisphere. You'll be treated to jazz and comedy shows, as well as acts of juggling, contortionism, and more. In February, the city bursts into bloom with the Festival of Flowers (tel. 03/365-5403; www.festivalofflowers.co.nz) and the Ellerslie International Flower Show (tel. 03/379-4561; www.ellerslieflowershow.co.nz). The Christchurch Arts Festival (tel. 03/365-2223; www.artsfestival.co.nz) is staged every 2 years in July and showcases international talent. The next one will be held in 2011. Showtime Canterbury, featuring the Canterbury A & P Show (tel. 03/343-3033; www.theshow.co.nz), is an absolute tradition in this part of the world. Staged the second week of November, it features thoroughbred and standard-bred racing.
Getting Around
By Public Bus
Red Bus Limited (tel. 0800/733-287 in NZ, or 03/379-4260; www.redbus.co.nz) operates the majority of urban bus services, with others provided by Leopard Coachlines (tel. 03/373-8100; www.leopard.co.nz). Zoned fares range from NZ$3 to NZ$10. For information and details on all-day passes, contact Bus Info (tel. 03/366-8855; www.metroinfo.org.nz). Because of the earthquakes, the Bus Exchange on Lichfield Street is currently closed and many Metro services are not running along their normal schedules or routes. City roads continue to be reviewed and as the city enters the rebuild phase, more services will resume. For the latest updates on public transportation, visit www.metroinfo.org.nz.
Check out the advantages of a Metrocard All Day Pass, which costs NZ$10 for unlimited travel. Purchase it from your bus driver or from temporary city bus terminus locations on Hagley Avenue, near Christchurch Hospital and Bealey Avenue (btw. Montreal and Durhma sts.), between 7:30am and 6pm daily. You can view the latest Metro routes on your smart phone anytime at http://metroinfo.co.nz/m/. use the "i" button to select your route and the compass button to show your current location. At time of writing, phones supported are iOS on the iPhone, Android 2.2 native browser, and Blackberry Torch (6.0) native browser.
By Private Bus
The Best Attractions Bus (tel. 0800/484-485; www.leisuretours.co.nz) offers transportation to the area's most popular attractions: The Must See Four goes to Willowbank Wildlife Reserve, the International Antarctic Centre, Air Force Museum, and Christchurch Tram. The tour takes 6 hours and costs NZ$150 per person, which includes all transportation and admission prices. The Big Five includes Willowbank, the Antarctic Centre, Christchurch Tram, a Lyttelton Harbour excursion with Christchurch Wildlife Cruises, and a ride on the Christchurch Gondola. It takes 8 hours and costs NZ$210 per person.
By Tramway
Christchurch's short but pleasant tramway (tel. 03/366-7830; www.welcomeaboard.co.nz) was in the process of being greatly extended when the February earthquake struck. Many lines were damaged and it may be some time before the full service resumes. The route may also change, depending on plans for the city rebuild. The core part of the route currently runs from Cathedral Square down Worcester Boulevard, crossing the Avon River to the Arts Centre. From here, it turns right to Rolleston Avenue and travels on to Armagh and New Regent streets and back to the Square. It operates from 9am to 9pm in summer and until 6pm in winter; one circuit takes 25 minutes and there are 11 stops along the route. Tickets, which can be purchased on the tram, are NZ$25 for adults, NZ$12 children ages 5 to 15, NZ$65 for a family, and you can hop on and off the tram as often as you like for 2 days. These prices are based on the extended service, so may vary in coming months.
By Taxi
There are taxi stands scattered around the inner city and at all transport terminals. First Direct (tel. 03/377-5555) has a reputation for being the best priced. For taxis that can accommodate wheelchairs, call tel. 03/379-9788. Blue Star Taxis (tel. 03/379-9799; www.bluestartaxis.org.nz) offer women traveling alone a reassuring door-to-door service. Just request the Woman Alone service when you ring and the driver will escort you, from pick-up to destination and wait until you are safely inside.
By Car
If you want to see only the main central-city sights, you probably won't need a car; you can make the most of free shuttles and cheap tour buses for those farther-afield destinations. If you do have a car, driving in Christchurch is slightly trickier since the earthquakes, especially in the eastern suburbs, where there has been extensive damage. Full road repairs are expected to take 2 years, so be wary of signs, potholes, protrusions, and closures. Parking buildings are currently closed, except for the one under Christchurch Art Gallery on Gloucester Street. This will obviously change as the city rebuilds. You'll find free car parking in Hagley Park during the day; enter at the end of Armagh Street. If you're visiting the suburban shopping areas of Sydenham, Riccarton, Merivale, Northlands (Papanui), Ferrymead, or The Palms (Shirley), you'll find plenty of free parking.
By Bicycle
Christchurch is a biker's heaven -- it's flat (except for the Port Hills), and motorists are used to a high volume of bicycle traffic. Cycle lanes are set aside in many areas, especially in the northwest suburbs, where there's quite a bit of university bike traffic. Note that the condition of roads after the earthquakes is greatly impaired in places, so keep your eyes open for unexpected potholes and rises in the road surface.
On Foot
Most of the main central-city attractions are well placed for easy walking -- especially in the Art Gallery/Museum/Botanic Gardens area.
