Planning a trip to Cieszyn

Cieszyn has two main tourist information centers, one on each side of the border. Both are useful for hotel and restaurant recommendations, planning outings, and figuring out transportation options, but each is much stronger on its respective part of town. Don't expect the Poles to have much info on the Czech side or vice-versa (in spite of the towns' shared EU "Euroregion" designation). On the Polish side, visit the Cieszyn Information Center (Rynek 1; tel. 33/479-42-49; www.cieszyn.pl). On the Czech side, try the Ceský Téšín Regional Information Center (Hlavní Trída 15; tel. 420-558-711-866; www.info.tesin.cz). There's also a tiny information center inside the castle complex on the Polish side (Zamkowa 3; tel. 33/851-08-21; www.cieszyn.pl). On our visit, the woman behind the desk could not speak English but had a few maps and brochures on the castle that she was happy to hand out.

Getting Around

Cieszyn is a small city, and walking is the best way to get around. The center of the Polish side is the charming main square, the Rynek. From there, it's a short walk to the castle and then across the river to the Czech side. There is a modest city bus system, but you're not likely to use it. Taxis are around, but it's best to ask your hotel or restaurant to call one for you. Halo Taxi (tel. 33/852-19-19) is a reliable company.

Getting There

By Train -- Cieszyn has two train stations, but only the one on the Czech side of town, in Ceský Téšín, is of any practical use. Here, you'll find several decent trains to Prague (around 5 hr.), as well as trains to Slovakia and points east. The Cieszyn station on the Polish side has all but closed down, with most connections to Katowice and Kraków departing from Wisa, about 15km (9 1/4 miles) away. On the Czech side, the station is located in the center of town, across from the Piast Hotel, at Nádra?ní 1133 (tel. 420/840-112-113). On the Polish side, Cieszyn's train station PKP is at Hajduka 10 (tel. 33/852-01-08), about a 10-minute walk from the center.

By Bus -- Cieszyn has excellent bus and minibus connections to Katowice and Kraków, with several departures daily to both cities. Expect to pay around 10 z to Katowice and around 20 z to Kraków. The bus station is just across the street from the train station at Korfantego 23 (tel. 33/852-02-79; www.pkscieszyn.pl). Minibuses to Katowice and Kraków depart from a parking lot adjacent to Cieszyn's derelict train station.

By Car -- Cieszyn is located on the main north-south E75 highway and is well-signposted for miles around. It's a major road border crossing between Poland and the Czech Republic.