Doolin’s old pubs and restaurants ring with the sound of fiddle and accordion all year long, earning this secluded fishing village a reputation as the unofficial capital of Irish traditional music. Most famous among them is Gus O’Connor’s Pub (Fisher St.;; 065/707-4168), set among a row of thatched fisherman’s cottages, about a 10-minute walk from the seafront. Great though the craic is here, the pub’s fame inevitably draws crowds, and it can get packed to the rafters on a busy night. If you’re looking for something a little more authentic, head up the road to McGann’s (Main St.;; 065/707-4133); it’s less well-known and not so unrelentingly jammed as Gus O’Connor’s. In fact, on many nights, there are no locals in Gus’s at all—they’re all here, downing pints of Guinness and listening to the fiddles. Feel free to join them. Doolin is on R479, about 7.8km (4[bf]3/4 miles) west of Lisdoonvarna.