Lazy and laid-back, Fort Kochi offers a tranquillity that is in complete contrast to the heaving city experience of Ernakulam. Along with Mattancherry and Jew Town, Fort Kochi forms the historic heart (also known as Old Kochi) of the city -- it is, after all, a town where 14 different languages are spoken, and tumbled-down mansions line narrow ancient lanes. Near the water's edge, old warehouses (or godowns) are filled with the state's treasured cash crops -- pepper, tea, Ayurvedic herbs, whole ginger, and betel nuts -- being dried, sorted, and prepared for direct sale or auction. The area is wonderful for historic walks, particularly into Jew Town, which hosts the remains of a community that dates back to the 1st century A.D., augmented during the 16th century when the Inquisition brought a fresh wave of Jewish immigrants here. Today only a small handful of aging "white Jewish" families remain in Kochi, but their residential quarter retains a charming ambience, with cobbled streets and fascinating antiques shops and spice markets.
Man-made Willingdon Island, a short ferry ride or bridge journey away, was created in the 20th century by large-scale dredging. There is a good hotel here, but the island is primarily concerned with naval and commercial port activity and is not worth visiting unless you're based here. Bolgatty Island, reached by ferry, is of no interest other than the rather lovely heritage "palace" on its shores, which has been converted into a poorly managed state-government hotel.
Exploring Old Kochi
Start your 2-hour walking tour at the harbor near Vasco da Gama Square, where you can watch fishermen hoisting their catch from the cantilevered Chinese fishing nets that line the shore, then head along Church Road to St. Francis Church. Keep going toward Parade Road (where you'll see the Malabar House Residency). Turn right into Parade Road then left along Dutch Cemetery Road, passing Thakur House and the cemetery on your right, as well as the remains of the 16th-century Fort Immanuel. Just after this you will turn north (left) up Elephinstone Road, making a left onto Ridsdale Road. After popping into Cinnamon and perhaps watching the boys and men playing cricket on the Parade Ground park opposite the store, turn right into Bastion Street and drift in the direction of Santa Cruz Basilica. If you're ready to take a break, turn right before this into Peter Celli Street, where you can't miss the lovely Tea Pot; service is excruciatingly slow but the ambience is lovely. Or take the next street left into Burgher and stop at Kashi Art Café, where the contemporary art and vibrant atmosphere provide a contrast to the historic surroundings.
When you're ready, head toward Tower Road, where you will find the lovely red-brick Koder House, not far from where you started your tour. Built in 1808 by Jewish patriarch Samuel Koder, Koder House is a good example of the hybrid Indo-European style that developed in Cochin. It's also an example of an overpriced guesthouse, so if you want to appreciate the interiors, ask to see a room -- they're quite popular, however, so you may have to settle on taking a drink in the lovely upstairs lounge (while there, snoop a bit and see if you can spot the overhead bridge that links this hotel to the one behind -- this was formerly one large property). Next door to Koder House, the Old Harbour Hotel has made a more successful, dynamic transition to hospitality, and you'd do well to book dinner at the in-house restaurant, 1788, where you should pause immediately for a cooling glass of organic carrot and gooseberry juice. Beyond is the Pierce Leslie Bungalow, a charming 19th-century mansion reflecting both Portuguese and Dutch influences.
While in the vicinity of the fishing nets, you might want to wander along the harbor's edge for a while (this stretch is very popular at sunset), watching fishermen sell their catch. When you've had enough, catch an auto-rickshaw to Mattancherry, where you should visit the Mattancherry (Dutch) Palace and Paradesi Synagogue before discovering the fragrant scents of Kerala's spice warehouses. Make time to visit a few of the antiques warehouses, and don't be put off by the layers of dust -- there are some real treasures to be found. End your day full circle with a sunset cruise around the harbor; this is the best way to enjoy the most-photographed of Kochi's historic sights: the Chinese fishing nets that form wonderful silhouettes against a red- and orange-hued sky.
Black Gold -- In Kerala, pepper is still sometimes referred to as karuthu ponnu, or "black gold," and represents the backbone of the state's international spice trade. Although the furious trade around spices has subsided considerably these days, the sorting houses, warehouses, and auction houses from which these valuable products find their way to the rest of the world still operate in much the same way they have for centuries (though given the current crises surrounding many of the traditional cash crops, there is a possibility that these side-street sights will not be around forever). Ask your guide or auto-rickshaw driver to take you to the ginger, black pepper, betel nut, and Ayurvedic medicine warehouses, reminiscent of Salman Rushdie's The Moor's Last Sigh; or head for the Kochi International Pepper Exchange on Jew Town Rd., Mattancherry (tel. 0484/222-4263), where until recently you could see Kerala's black gold being furiously sold off to the highest bidder; sadly, this is now done electronically.
Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
