Planning a trip to Colombia

Staying Healthy

In major cities, you'll have little cause for worry. Water is generally fine to drink, though cautious travelers may want to stick to bottled water. The problem you're most likely to encounter is traveler's diarrhea, from inexpensive food. Use common sense -- avoid eating unpeeled fruits and vegetables from street vendors, wash your hands frequently, and when trying a new fruit or vegetable, don't overdo it. Remember to wear sunscreen at all times, even in cool cities like Bogotá. You're closer to the sun, and you don't want to let sunburn ruin your vacation. In major cities, health care is adequate and professional, as long as you stick to private clinics. Public clinics tend to have long lines and are usually understaffed and underfunded.

If you are visiting the Andean region, altitude sickness is a possibility. Though it generally goes away after 2 to 5 days, it may be helpful to bring along Tylenol, Advil, or another over-the-counter painkiller. Symptoms include headache, shortness of breath, fatigue, nausea, and sleepiness. Try to take it easy the first day or two to avoid worsening your condition. You might experience altitude sickness in Bogotá or Tunja, or when hiking in the high Andes.

Though no vaccines are required to enter Colombia, it's a good idea to consider getting vaccinations for hepatitis A and B, typhoid, and yellow fever if you will be visiting the Atlantic or Pacific coasts, the Amazon region, or any other tropical region. (As a general rule, the more rural your location in the country's tropical regions, the higher your risk of contracting diseases such as malaria, yellow fever, or cholera). Dengue fever is another concern in the tropics, though unfortunately there is no preventative vaccine. You should also consider taking malaria pills if you will be visiting any of the above regions.

Tips on Shopping

Handicrafts are relatively cheap and easy to find in Colombia, though the deals aren't as good as you get in Ecuador, Bolivia, and Peru. In urban areas, you're likely to find the best bargains in city centers; handicraft stores in upscale shopping malls charge at least double the price, though you're generally guaranteed quality. In small towns and rural areas, you can expect to find more authentic and regional crafts at fair prices. At markets and such, you may be able to bargain somewhat, though don't expect a price to drop more than a couple of thousand pesos.

Aside from handicrafts, Colombians are serious about clothing. Bogotá, Cartagena, and Cali are a shopaholic's dream come true. At shopping centers and boutiques in more upscale areas, clothing is generally high quality, albeit a bit expensive. In the most upscale city zones and shopping centers, you'll be greeted by the likes of Armani, Tommy Hilfiger, and other designers. Shoes and leather handbags, as well as gold and emerald jewelry, are popular buys and can be purchased at decent prices; it's best to ask around to find the spots with the best bargains.

Fast Facts

Business Hours -- Business hours vary significantly between urban and rural areas. In urban areas, businesses and banks are generally open between 8am and noon, and then again between 2 and 6pm. In Bogotá, banks are supposedly open all day between 8am and 4pm. Stores are generally open between 9am to 5pm, while department stores and large supermarkets generally stay open until around 9pm. In the countryside, businesses and stores are generally open fewer hours and don't necessarily stick to their posted schedules. Also, many businesses close down or reduce their hours on Sundays and holidays.

Doctors & Hospitals -- Some of the best hospitals in Bogotá are Clínica Marly, Calle 50, no. 9-67 (tel. 1/570-4424, 1/572-5011, or 1/343-6600); Fundación Santa Fe, Calle 119, no. 9-02 (tel. 1/629-0766 or 629-0477); and Clínica El Bosque, Calle 134, no. 12-55 (tel. 1/274-0577, 1/274-5445, or 1/649-9300).

Electricity -- Electric outlets accept U.S.-type plugs. Electricity in Colombia runs at 110 volts, so transformers are not necessary for tourists from the U.S. If you are planning to use anything with a three-prong plug, bring an adapter, as some establishments only have two-prong outlets.

Embassies & Consulates -- In Bogotá: Australia (consulate): Carrera 18 no. 90-38 (tel. 1/636-5247 or 1/530-1047); New Zealand (consulate): Diagonal 109 no. 1-39 Este, Apt. 401 (tel. 1/629-8524; pearsona@cable.net.co); United Kingdom: Carrera 9 no. 76-49, Piso 9 (tel. 1/326-8300 or 1/317-6423 for visa information); United States: Calle 22, Bis. 47-51 (tel. 1/315-0811); Canada: Carrera 7 no. 115-33, Piso 14 (tel. 1/657-9800).

Emergencies -- In Bogotá, the police emergency number is tel. 112. Another emergency number that works throughout the country is 123. Other good emergency numbers to know: the Security Police (DAS; tel. 153/0180-0091-9622); the Tourist Police (tel. 1/337-4413 or 1/243-1175); and the police station in Bogotá (tel. 156). The fire department can be reached by calling 119, and information can be reached by dialing 113.

Language -- Except for a tiny percentage of rural indigenous communities, Spanish is universally spoken in Colombia. It's hard to find Colombians who speak English, even in Bogotá, so it's important to brush up on you skills before your trip. Outside of Bogotá and the major cities, you'll be hard-pressed to find any English speakers, which can make traveling in a nontouristy country quite difficult if you don't speak any Spanish.

Liquor Laws -- The legal drinking age in Colombia is 18. In urban areas such as Bogotá, Medellín, Cartagena, and Cali, you may be asked to show ID to get into upscale bars and clubs.

Post Offices & Mail -- The postal system in Colombia is relatively efficient in large cities, though the same can't always be said for rural areas. Servientrega, DHL, FedEx, and DePrisa are available in Colombia for local and international shipping services, as is Avianca Airlines. While mail within Colombia is cheap, sending items abroad can be expensive.

Restrooms -- Bathroom quality varies. Expensive hotels, restaurants, and shops generally have clean facilities and toilet paper. As long as you're polite, restaurant, hotel, and store owners probably won't mind if you use their facilities. You might have to pay a small fee to use a public or restaurant restroom.

Safety -- Colombia is still far from being among the safest countries in the world. Travelers are advised to stick to well-touristed areas and keep up-to-date with the ever-changing political situation to avoid problems.

Smoking -- Colombians smoke less than Europeans but more than Americans. Most restaurants, hotels, shopping centers, bars, clubs, and other establishments have a no-smoking policy. Smoking is more prevalent in small towns than big cities.

Time Zone -- All of Colombia is 5 hours behind Greenwich Mean Time. Colombia does not observe daylight saving time.

Tipping -- In midrange and expensive restaurants, there is usually a 10% tip included in the bill. It's not common to tip in budget restaurants or in taxis, so there's no need to do so unless you're feeling generous.

Water -- City water is usually safe to drink, but in nonurban areas it's best to stick to bottled water.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Entry Requirements

A valid passport is required to visit Colombia. Visas are not required if you are a citizen of Australia, Canada, France, Germany, New Zealand, South Africa, Switzerland, the United Kingdom, or the United States. You will automatically be granted permission to stay in the country for 60 days upon entering Colombia. If you plan to spend more than 60 days in the country, you will have to get permission from the Colombian Security Department (DAS) office in any departmental capital, though most tourists do so in Bogotá. To receive this 30- to 60-day extension, you will need to deposit COL$60,400 to Bancafé (account #056-99020-3, code 103), and then present your passport, your plane ticket (showing date of departure), four color passport pictures (3cm*4cm), two photocopies of your passport picture page, two copies of your passport entry stamp page, two copies of the Bancafé deposit slip, and two copies of your plane ticket. The process usually takes 1 to 2 hours, but you will be given the extension on the spot. You can repeat the process until you've been in the country 180 days. The Bogotá DAS office, at Calle 100 no. 11B-27, Edificio Platino (tel. 1/601-7200), is open Monday through Thursday 7:30am to 4pm and Friday 7:30am to 3pm. If you stay in Colombia more than 60 days without a visa extension, you can be fined $60 to $1,600 (depending on how long you overstay).

Colombian Embassy Locations

In Australia: 161 London CCT, Level 2, CPA Bldg., ACT 2601 (tel. 02/6230-4203; fax 02/6257-1448)

In Canada: 360 Albert St., Ste 1002, Piso 10 K1R 7X7, Ottawa, ON (tel. 613/230-3760; embajada@embajadacolombia.ca)

In New Zealand (consulate): PO Box 17072, Karori Wellington (tel. 644/4769-857; fax 644/4769-779)

In the U.K.: 3 Hans Crescent, London, SW1X OLN (tel. 020/7589-9177; fax 020/7581-1829; www.colombianembassy.co.uk)

In the U.S.: 2118 Leroy Place NW, Washington, DC 20008 (tel. 202/387-8338; www.colombiaemb.org)

Customs

Upon entering Colombia, you will be asked to complete a Customs form detailing your personal effects. There is a regularly updated limit on cash and goods you may take out of the country. Because of strict drug-trafficking laws, do not try to take more money out of Colombia than you claim -- at a minimum, this could result in heavy questioning. For more information regarding this limit, call tel. 1/546-2200 or 1/457-8270. Usually, there's a limit of about US$10,000. When leaving the country, you must pay an airport departure tax of about COL$114,520, though this tax is often included in your airline ticket.

Staying Safe

Colombia isn't the place to wander off the beaten path, not even in cities. Stick to neighborhoods you know are safe. The following advice is relevant, particularly in large cities.

• Never resist an attempted robbery -- Colombian criminals can be armed and unpredictable. Carry at least a little cash on you to avoid angering thieves. There have been cases of tourists being killed for resisting robbery.

When to Go

Because of its proximity to the equator, Colombia’s temperatures vary according to altitude rather than season. In high altitudes, days are cool and nights can dip near the freezing mark. In lowlands, expect a tropical, humid climate with little difference between daytime and nighttime temperatures. As a general guide, the average temperature in Bogotá is 57°F (14°C), in Cartagena 87°F (31°C), and in Medellín 75°F (24°C). The rainiest months are October and November. In the Andean region, the dry season falls between December and March and July and August. If possible, avoid Colombia in October and November, as these are the rainiest months, and flooding and poor road conditions are common.

Christmas is a particularly festive time in Colombia, though prices often rise and hotel rooms fill up quickly in Cartagena and the Atlantic Coast, as well as in other popular tourist destinations. During the Christmas holiday, Easter, and summer vacation, you’ll have to book hotels in advance and be prepared to pay a bit extra.

The best place to head online for a detailed weather forecast is www.wunderground.com.

When You'll Find Bargains

The cheapest time to fly to Colombia is usually during the off season: from late August to November and in May. Though that mostly coincides with the rainy season in the highlands and coast, it rarely rains all day. Remember that weekday flights are often cheaper than weekend fares.

Rates generally increase in early December, then hit their peak in high travel season from Christmas until the end of January. In mid-June through August, when most Europeans take their holidays, there are more crowds and limited availability for the best hotel rooms.

You can avoid crowds, to some extent, by planning trips for the shoulder season, from about February to April, though you should be mindful of the uptick during Semana Santa (Holy Week). In general, the shoulder season offers the best combination of fewer crowds and good weather. Be mindful of major Colombian holidays, particularly at places like Cali and Cartagena, which are major destinations for Colombians as well as international travelers.

Public Holidays

Colombia has more public holidays than any other nation except Brazil. Usually, if a holiday falls on a Saturday or Sunday, it is celebrated the following Monday. Public holidays are New Year’s Day (Jan 1); Epiphany (Jan 6); St. Joseph’s Day (Mar 19); Maundy Thursday and Good Friday (Mar/Apr); Labor Day (May 1); Ascension (May); Corpus Christi (May/June); Sacred Heart (June); Day of St. Peter and St. Paul (June 29); Independence Day (Aug 7); Assumption (Aug 15); Discovery of America (Oct 12); All Saints’ Day (Nov 1); Independence of Cartagena (Nov 11); Immaculate Conception (Dec 8); and Christmas (Dec 25). Bogotá and other major cities empty out during holiday weekends, and many businesses close early or don’t open at all.

Tips on Accommodations

Hotels in major cities tend to fill up on weekdays with business travelers and empty out on weekends, when you may be able to bargain up to a 50% discount. The reverse is true in small towns and in the countryside, where you'll pay up to 50% less during the week. One annoying thing about Colombian hotels is that many hotels won't take reservations during holiday weekends or festivals, meaning you'll have to arrive early to reserve a room. Hotels in city centers tend to be dodgier and lower quality than those in outer, more upscale neighborhoods, and many double as pay-by-the-hour establishments -- you may want to keep this in mind when making your reservation. Very Expensive lodging options start at COL$450,000; Expensive, from COL$300,000 to COL$449,000; Moderate from COL$200,000 to COL$299,000; and Inexpensive, under COL$200,000.

Tips on Dining

You won't be hungry in Colombia. Though every region has its own specialties, you're never far from a plate of beans, beef, plantains, and rice. Food is good, hearty, and generally cheap, if not particularly varied. For gourmands, major cities such as Bogotá, Medellín, and Cartagena also offer a huge range of upscale, gourmet, and international options. Some typical dishes to look for on your menu include ajiaco (chicken soup with potatoes, avocado, corn, and capers), bandeja paisa (rice, avocado, salad), chicharrón (minced meat, egg, plantain, and yuca), sancocho (plantain, yuca, potato, and beef, chicken, or fish soup), lechona (stuffed baked pork), arepa (flat cornbread, often topped with cheese or butter), and tamales (corn dough, chicken, and vegetables cooked and served in plantain leaves).

Tinto, black coffee, is Colombia's most popular beverage and can be enjoyed at anytime, just about anywhere. Other popular drinks are beer, aguardiente (the licorice-flavored national liquor), hot chocolate, and soda products. Bottled water (or bagged) water can usually be found at most stores and street stands. Thanks to its tropical climate and fertile soil, Colombia has countless exotic fruit juices such as guanábana (soursop), lulo, maracuyá (passion fruit), and tomate de árbol (tree tomato). Wine is not particularly popular in Colombia, and Colombian wines on the whole leave a lot to be desired. However, upscale restaurants and grocery stores generally offer high-quality Argentine and Chilean varieties.

Restaurants range from the rustic and incredibly inexpensive to polished places with impeccable service and international menus. Set three-course lunch menus are usually called comida corriente and can be had for COP$2,000 to COP$5,000 in rural areas. The majority of restaurants include taxes and service in their prices, and your bill will reflect the menu prices. For others, however, you might see a subtotal, followed by a 16% IVA (general sales tax). It’s primarily only higher end restaurants that do this. This is just a tax, not a tip.

Note: Dining hours are not much different from typical mealtimes in cities in North America or Great Britain, except that dinner (cena) is generally eaten after 8pm in restaurants. Colombians do not eat nearly as late as Spaniards. Although lunch (almuerzo) is the main meal of the day, for most visitors, it’s not the grand midday affair it is in Spain, unless it is the weekend and you are dining at a rural parrilla, where most locals linger over lunch for a couple of hours.

Getting Around

By Plane

Flying is the fastest way to get around Colombia. Precipitous two-lane winding roads can make road travel long, tiring, and a bit nauseating. Distances by plane are usually short (between 30 min. and 1 hr.), though prices are relatively steep. Except to pay about COL$150,000 to COL$500,000 for a 30- to 60-minute flight between major cities. Colombian airline prices are generally fixed and unlikely to vary much between airline carriers. Avianca/SAM (tel. 018000/123-434; www.avianca.com) is Colombia's largest and most extensive carrier, covering both domestic and international routes. That said, service is often inefficient and customer service is poor. Aero República (tel. 018000/917-766; www.aerorepublica.com.co) covers much of the same territory as Avianca. AIRES (tel. 018000/524-737; www.aires.com.co) services smaller cities and towns, and SATENA (tel. 01900/331-7100; www.satena.com) flies to difficult locations such as the Amazon, the Pacific coast, and dozens of other small towns and villages.

Tip: It's important to note that if you will be using an international (non-Colombian) credit card to purchase your airline ticket online, you will need to book your flight at least 3 days in advance, or through a non-Colombian search engine such as Expedia. Another choice if you are short on time is to buy your tickets at the airport, where you won't have any problems using your credit card. Unless you're traveling during Christmas, Easter, or a busy holiday weekend, you shouldn't have too much trouble purchasing last-minute Colombian tickets.

By Bus

Since President Uribe took office in 2002, road travel in Colombia has improved dramatically. Most routes between major cities and towns are safe, though southwest Colombia can still be dangerous. As a woman traveling alone, I have taken buses throughout Colombia without incident, but every traveler's comfort level is different. It's a good idea to check security conditions before you board a long-distance night bus, especially if you'll be traveling through high-risk area. You can find a bus to almost any city or town in the country from the Bogotá bus terminal, Terminal de Buses. Bus routes from Medellín, Cali, and Barranquilla also cover much of the country. Road conditions are generally good, but it's important to remember that these are two-lane mountain roads, so if there is a back-up or accident, you're stuck in place for at least a couple of hours. Also during the wet season -- particularly October and November -- the rain can cause mudslides and unpredictable road conditions.

Unless you're taking a route with irregular departures, it's unnecessary to book in advance (the exception being if you are traveling during Christmas or a Puente weekend, both 3-day holiday weekends, when you might want to consider purchasing your ticket a day or two in advance). Bus travel isn't as cheap as in nearby Ecuador or Peru; expect to pay about COL$10,000 per 100km (62 miles), but buses are generally comfortable. Tip: Stick to large buses, since small colectivos are bumpy and uncomfortable. And avoid taking corrientes, which seem to stop every couple of meters. No matter what class of bus, be prepared for onboard entertainment of vallenato and ranchera tunes, as well as ultraviolent movies, at whatever volume your driver chooses.

By Car

Renting a car in Colombia is a bad idea. Car accidents are one of the top causes of death in Colombia. In urban areas, Colombians tend to be aggressive and careless behind the wheel, often neither following street signs or traffic lights nor giving pedestrians the right of way. On rural roads and mountain passes, winding roads and near head-on collisions with trucks, as well as the occasional livestock crossing, can be intimidating at best. Also, Colombian car-rental companies examine returned rentals extensively for the slightest dent and scratch. Public transportation options are safer and cheaper. Some upscale hotels offer a chauffeur/car service, which can be rented by the hour or by the day, but don't expect any great deals. If, after hearing all this, you are still determined to drive in Colombia, expect to pay at least COL$200,000 a day. Make sure you and the car are insured, and be aware that gas doesn't come cheap in Colombia -- we're talking COL$7,158 a gallon. Some companies that rent cars in Colombia are: Avis (www.avis.com), Hertz (www.hertz.com), and Budget (www.budget.com).

Getting There

By Plane

Planes arrive at El Dorado International Airport (airport code BOG; tel. 1/413-9053), located about 13km (8 miles) from the city center. El Dorado handles most international arrivals and you'll likely fly into Bogotá. Upon exiting the country, there is a departure tax of $59 (payable in U.S. dollars or the peso equivalent), though all or at least part of this is usually included in your ticket. Other major international airports in Colombia include Rio Negro International Airport in Medellín and Rafael Núñez International Airport in Cartagena.

From the U.S. -- There are direct flights from New York, Atlanta, Miami, and Washington D.C. Avianca (tel. 800/284-2622; www.avianca.com) has several daily flights to Bogotá, as well as one direct daily flight to Medellín and Cartagena. American Airlines (tel. 800/433-7300; www.aa.com) has three daily flights from Miami to Bogotá and two daily flights to Medellín. From JFK in New York, Delta (tel. 800/221-1212; www.delta.com) and Avianca each have one daily direct flight to Bogotá. From Atlanta, Delta and Avianca each offer one daily flight to Bogotá. Continental (tel. 800/944-0219; www.continental.com), Copa (tel. 800/550-7700; www.copaair.com), and Taca (tel. 800/535-8780; www.taca.com) also offer service to Bogotá, though you'll have to connect. JetBlue (tel. 800/538-2583; www.jetblue.com) flies direct from Orlando to Bogotá daily.

From Canada -- Air Canada (tel. 888/247-2262; www.aircanada.ca) offers a direct flight between Toronto and Bogotá several times a week. Otherwise, you'll have to connect in the U.S. using one of the carriers listed above, which might actually turn out to be a cheaper option.

From Europe & the U.K. -- From Paris, Air France (tel. 0870/142-4343; www.airfrance.co.uk) offers one daily direct flight to Bogotá. Iberia (tel. 0845/601-2854; www.iberia.com) flies direct to Bogotá from Madrid. Avianca, American, Continental, and Air France have flights from Madrid to Bogotá, connecting through Paris or in the U.S.; London, Rome, and Frankfurt offer similar options with one connection.

From Australia & New Zealand -- You'll be connecting in the U.S, and possibly Central or South America as well. Your best bet from Australia is on American Airlines, connecting in Los Angeles en route to Bogotá. From New Zealand, some of your better options are LAN (tel. 800/221-572; www.lan.com/index-en-un.html) and Air New Zealand (tel. 0800/737-000; www.airnz.co.nz), though be prepared for at least two stops.

By Bus

Although you can technically enter Colombia via Venezuela to the east and Ecuador to the south, this is not your safest option. It's much safer than it was a few years ago, but flying is not only much more secure, it's quicker and definitely more comfortable. If you insist on traveling by bus, be sure to make your journey during the daytime, and keep an eye on worsening Colombia-Venezuela relations if you're crossing in from Venezuela. You'll probably have to transfer buses at the border.

By Boat

Unless you're going directly to Cartagena, you probably won't be arriving by boat. That said, Cartagena is now becoming a popular stop for Caribbean Cruise liners and private yacht owners. Private yacht and sailing companies also offer trips from the San Blas Islands in Panama to Cartagena, starting at $250 each way.

Money

The Colombian peso (COL$) is the official currency. Money is denominated in notes of 1,000, 2,000, 5,000, 10,000, 20,000, and 50,000, and coins of 20, 50, 100, 200, and 500 pesos. At press time, the exchange rate was about COL$2,000 to US$1 and about COL$3,100 to £1. These rates can fluctuate somewhat, so it's important to check the latest exchange rate at www.xe.com/ucc.

Currency Exchange -- Unlike in other Latin-American countries, the U.S. dollar is not widely accepted in Colombia, except in a few super-high-end establishments. You can convert your currency in upscale hotels, at casas de cambio (money-exchange houses), at most banks, and at the airport. It's not recommended to bring traveler's checks to Colombia. They can be exchanged at some banks and used at high-end hotels, but usually they aren't accepted elsewhere. Make sure your bank or issuer has a representative in Colombia before purchasing traveler's checks.

ATMs -- Cash machines are easy to find in urban areas and most medium-to-large-size towns, though they are almost impossible to come across in rural areas. Withdrawing money from ATMs is preferable to exchanging money in banks, which charge a sometimes hefty transaction fee. ATMs also give you the most up-to-date rate of exchange. Thefts at ATMs have been reported, however, so if you are taking out large sums of money, be sure not to put all your cash in one place (spread the bills among your pockets). It's best to use ATM machines located inside a building, as these offer more security. Warning: If you are having trouble with an ATM, do not accept help from anyone, even if he or she seems friendly and honest. This is the easiest way to wipe out your bank account.

Credit Cards -- Credit cards, particularly Visa and MasterCard, are generally accepted in midrange and upscale shops, as well as at upscale restaurants and hotels around the country. In rural areas and small towns, you are unlikely to find establishments that accept credit cards. When booking tours, you're likely to get a better deal when using cash.