Planning a trip to Colorado

The beauty of a Colorado vacation is that there's truly something for everyone. Depending on where you choose to go, you can have an affordable and fun time, or you can spend a bit more and have a truly world-class experience. The more expensive resorts -- Vail, Aspen, Steamboat, and Telluride -- tend to fill up quickly, especially during ski season (and even more so the holiday week of Dec 25-Jan 1); you'll want to book as far in advance as possible. The same is true for the state's most popular attractions, such as the national parks -- which are especially busy over school vacations. This chapter gives you the information you need to get started.

Destination: Colorado -- Predeparture Checklist

  • Are there any special requirements for your destination? Vaccinations? Special visas, passports, or IDs? Detailed road maps? Bug repellents? Appropriate attire? If you're flying, are you carrying a current, government-issued ID, such as a driver's license or passport?

Did you find out your daily ATM withdrawal limit?

Do you have your credit card PIN numbers? If you have a five- or six-digit PIN number, did you obtain a four-digit number from your bank?

To check in at a kiosk with an e-ticket, do you have the credit card you bought your ticket with or a frequent-flier card?

If you purchased traveler's checks, have you recorded the check numbers and stored the documentation separately from the checks?

Did you bring your ID cards that could entitle you to discounts, such as AAA and AARP cards and student IDs?

Did you leave a copy of your itinerary with someone at home?

Do any theater, restaurant, or travel reservations need to be booked in advance?

Some attractions (such as the top of the dome in the Colorado State Capitol in Denver, and the U.S. Air Force Academy and Peterson Air & Space Museum in Colorado Springs) have been closed for security reasons or have reopened with special restrictions. Call ahead for specifics.

If you want to attend a Denver Broncos game, call early -- home games sell out months ahead.

Make lodging arrangements far in advance for the resort towns during ski season.

Savings are often available by buying lift tickets before departure either by phone or on the resort's website. For those who are planning to ski 10 or more days, there are plenty of different season passes to shop and compare.

Calendar of Events

Below are some of the major annual events in Colorado. You'll find additional events on the Internet at www.colorado.com, www.coloradofestival.com, and www.denver365.com, as well as on each city's website. I strongly recommend, however, that if a particular event is especially important to you, confirm the date by telephone before you leave home. For an exhaustive list of events beyond those listed here, check http://events.frommers.com, where you'll find a searchable, up-to-the-minute roster of what's happening in cities all over the world.

January

Great Fruitcake Toss, Colorado Springs. This zany event, where contestants compete to see who can throw a fruitcake the farthest, is among the most outlandish and festive spectacles of the year. It takes place in Manitou Springs's Memorial Park, 5 miles west of downtown Colorado Springs. Call tel. 800/642-2567 or 719/685-5089 for more information. Early January.

Mahlerfest, Boulder. This may be the only festival celebrating the work of composer Gustav Mahler. Attend a full orchestra concert, free chamber concerts, or the free symposium. Call tel. 303/447-0513 or visit www.mahlerfest.org for more information. Early January.

National Western Stock Show and Rodeo, Denver. This is the world's largest livestock show and indoor rodeo, with about two dozen rodeo performances, a trade exposition, Western food and crafts booths, and livestock auctions. Call tel. 303/297-1166 for details. Second and third week of January.

Ullr Fest, Breckenridge. A week of wacky events dedicated to Ullr, the Norse snow god, culminates in a wackier parade. Call tel. 970/453-6018 or visit www.gobreck.com. Mid-January.

Wintersköl Carnival, Aspen and Snowmass. A 4-day event that includes a parade, fireworks, and a torchlight descent. Call tel. 970/925-1940 or see www.aspenchamber.org. Mid-January.

International Snow Sculpture Championships, Breckenridge. Four-person teams transform 20-ton blocks of snow into works of art. Call tel. 970/453-6018 or visit www.gobreck.com. Late January.

Boulder Bach Festival, Boulder. Music of the master baroque composer. Call tel. 303/652-9101 or visit www.boulderbachfest.org for details. Last weekend in January.

February

Loveland Valentine Remailing Program, Loveland. More than 200,000 valentines are remailed annually from Loveland. Call tel. 970/667-6311 or see www.loveland.org for details. Early February.

Steamboat Springs Winter Carnival, Steamboat Springs. Festivities include races, jumping, broomball, and skijoring -- that's horse-powered skiing -- street events. Call tel. 970/879-0695 or visit www.sswsc.org. First full week in February.

Leadville Valentine's Day Wine Tasting, Leadville. Wine tasting, good food, workshops, and related activities cosponsored by the National Mining Hall of Fame and Museum. Call tel. 888/532-3845 or see www.leadvilleusa.com for information. Mid-February.

Buffalo Bill's Birthday Celebration, Golden. Ceremonies and live entertainment that commemorate the life of the legendary scout and entertainer take place at the Buffalo Bill Memorial Museum. Call tel. 303/526-0744 or 303/526-0747, or check www.buffalobill.org for further information. Late February.

March

Colorado Springs Dance Theatre Wine Festival, Colorado Springs. Sample the best wines at this 3-day benefit for the Colorado Springs Dance Theatre. Call tel. 719/630-7434 for further information. Early March.

Pow Wow, Denver. More than 1,500 American Indians (as well as 60 drum groups), representing some 85 tribes from 32 states, perform traditional music and dances. Arts and crafts are also sold. Call tel. 303/934-8045 or browse www.denvermarchpowwow.org for details. Mid-March.

Saint Patrick's Day, Denver. Among the largest Irish holiday parades in the United States, with floats, marching bands, and thousands of horses. Call tel. 303/892-1112 for further information. Saturday before March 17.

April

Easter Sunrise Service, Colorado Springs and Denver. Worshipers watch the rising sun illuminate red sandstone formations in the Garden of the Gods in Colorado Springs. For details, call tel. 719/634-6666. Denver's Easter Sunrise Service takes place at Red Rocks Amphitheatre, also in the midst of stunning geological formations. Call tel. 303/295-4444 or visit www.redrocksonline.com for further information. Easter Sunday.

Spring Barrel Tasting, Grand Junction. Wine sampling, talks on winemaking, and good food. Call tel. 970/244-1480 or see www.visitgrandjunction.com for information. Late April.

May

Cinco de Mayo, Denver and Colorado Springs. More than 250,000 people from around the Denver area celebrate this annual event centered on north Federal Boulevard with mariachi bands, dancers, Mexican food, and other activities. Call tel. 303/534-8342 for information. Memorial Park is the site for the Colorado Springs celebration. Call tel. 719/635-5001 for information. May 5.

Plant and Book Sale, Denver. The largest volunteer-run plant and book sale in the nation, this event at Denver Botanic Gardens offers more than 250,000 plants, thousands of new and used books, and free gardening advice. Call tel. 720/865-3500 or visit www.botanicgardens.org for details. Early May.

Boulder Kinetic Fest, Boulder. A wacky event that's a real crowd pleaser. Most years an average of 70 teams race over land and water at Boulder Reservoir in a variety of imaginative human-powered conveyances. Activities include the kinetic parade, kinetic concerts, the kinetic ball, and a hot-air-balloon launch. Call tel. 303/444-5600 for details. Early May.

Iron Horse Bicycle Classic, Durango. Mountain bikers race against a steam train from Durango to Silverton. Call tel. 970/259-4621 or see www.ironhorsebicycleclassic.com. Memorial Day weekend.

Taste of Creede, Creede. A festival of fine arts, with live music, artists' demonstrations, food, and an art auction. Call 800/327-2102 or see www.creede.com for information. Memorial Day weekend.

Bolder Boulder, Boulder. This footrace attracts some 40,000 entrants each year, plus numerous spectators. Participants walk, jog, or run the 10K course. Call tel. 303/444-RACE (444-7223) or visit www.bolderboulder.com for details. Memorial Day.

June

FIBArk Whitewater Festival, Salida. North America's longest and oldest downriver kayak race highlights this festival, which includes carnival rides, a parade, a white-water rodeo, and live entertainment. Call tel. 719/539-6918 or visit www.fibark.net. Mid-June.

Strawberry Days, Glenwood Springs. One of Colorado's oldest civic celebrations, with a rodeo, talent show, music, dancing, an arts-and-crafts fair, parade, carnival, and footraces. Call tel. 970/945-2425 or visit www.strawberrydaysfestival.com. Mid-June.

Glenn Miller Dancin' on the Plains, Fort Morgan. A big-band music extravaganza in the hometown of the legendary big band leader. Call tel. 800/354-8660 or see www.fortmorganchamber.org for information. Mid-June.

International Buskerfest, Denver. An international street performers' festival featuring amazing shows by world-class jugglers, sword swallowers, magicians, tightrope artists, mimes, and acrobats. Call tel. 303/478-7878 for more information. Mid-June.

Wool Market, Estes Park. This huge natural-fiber show boasts contests, demonstrations, a children's tent, and a sale of animals (sheep, llamas), plus products made from their wool. Kids love it. Call tel. 970/586-5800 or go to www.estesnet.com. Mid-June.

Aspen Music Festival, Aspen. Considered one of the finest summer music festivals in the country, featuring world-renowned artists in classical, chamber, and opera performances. Call tel. 970/925-9042 or see www.aspenmusicfestival.com. Mid-June through mid-August.

Strings Music Festival, Steamboat Springs. Top-notch classical, jazz, country, and pop musicians perform. Call tel. 970/879-5056 or see www.stringsinthemountains.com. June through mid-August.

Greeley Stampede, Greeley. One of the West's biggest rodeos, with top national entertainers, plus concerts, kids' events, art exhibits, fireworks, and more. Call tel. 800/982-2855 or go to www.greeleystampede.org for details. Late June to early July.

Colorado Brewers' Festival, Fort Collins. Samples of more than 40 Colorado beers plus food and music. Call tel. 800/274-3678 or see www.downtownfortcollins.com. Late June.

Telluride Bluegrass Festival, Telluride. This major international music gathering features bluegrass, folk, and country music. Call tel. 800/624-2422 or see www.telluridebluegrass.com. Late June.

Colorado Shakespeare Festival, Boulder. Considered among the top Shakespeare festivals in the country, with most performances in an outdoor theater. Call tel. 303/492-0554 for details. Late June through late August.

Garden Concerts, Denver. Jazz, blues, and folk concerts take place in the outdoor amphitheater at Denver Botanic Gardens. Call tel. 720/865-3500 or visit www.botanicgardens.org for information. June through September.

July

Brush Rodeo, Brush. Billed as Colorado's largest professional rodeo, with hundreds of participants, this event offers traditional rodeo competition, children's activities, an art show, a parade, a free barbecue, a footrace, a dance, and fireworks. Call tel. 970/842-5001 or see www.brushcolo.com. Early July.

Colorado State Mining Championship, Creede. Entrants from six states compete in old-style hand steeling, hand mucking, spike driving, and newer methods of machine drilling and machine mucking. Call tel. 800/327-2102 or visit www.creede.com. July 4th weekend.

Pikes Peak Auto Hill Climb, Colorado Springs. This "race to the clouds," held annually since 1916, takes drivers to the top of 14,110-foot Pikes Peak. Call tel. 719/685-4400 for additional information. Saturday close to July 4th.

Woodcarvers Rendezvous, Creede. This weeklong event includes woodcarving classes, demonstrations, and an auction. Call tel. 800/327-2102 or see www.creedewoodcarvers.com. Early to mid-July.

Rooftop Rodeo & Parade, Estes Park. Award-winning rodeos Tuesday through Sunday evenings. A grand parade kicks it all off on Tuesday morning. Call tel. 970/586-5800 or visit www.estesnet.com for details. Mid-July.

Crested Butte Wild Flower Festival, Crested Butte. This mountain community shows off its spectacular wildflowers with hikes, photo workshops, classes, and other activities. Call tel. 800/455-1290 or see www.crestedbuttewildflowerfestival.com. Mid-July.

Art Fair, Boulder. Some 150 local and regional artists display their works in downtown Boulder, offering "fine art to fun art" plus live musical performances. Call tel. 303/449-3774 or visit www.boulderdowntown.com for more information. Third weekend in July.

Buffalo Bill Days, Golden. A parade, kids' rides, a burro race, arts and crafts displays, a petting zoo, a car show, and a pancake breakfast mark Golden's largest event. Call tel. 303/384-0003 or visit www.buffalobilldays.com for more information. Late July.

August

Boom Days, Leadville. Events celebrate Leadville's mining and Wild West heritage with a parade, a carnival, gun-slinger reenactments, a mine-drilling competition, and a burro race. Call tel. 888/532-3845 or see www.leadvilleboomdays.com. First weekend in August.

Pikes Peak or Bust Rodeo, Colorado Springs. Colorado's largest outdoor rodeo, and a popular stop on the professional rodeo circuit. Call tel. 719/635-3547 or visit www.coloradospringsrodeo.com for details. Early August.

Sculpture in the Park, Loveland. This outdoor juried exhibit of sculpture includes works by close to 200 sculptors from around the world. Call tel. 970/663-2940 or see www.sculptureinthepark.org. Mid-August.

Colorado State Fair, Pueblo. National professional rodeo, carnival rides, food booths, industrial displays, horse shows, animal exhibits, and entertainment by top-name performers. Call tel. 800/876-4567 or visit www.coloradostatefair.com for additional information. Mid-August through Labor Day.

September

Telluride Film Festival, Telluride. This influential festival has premiered some of the finest independent films in recent years. Call tel. 510/665-9494 or see www.telluridefilmfestival.org. Early September.

Colorado Springs Balloon Classic, Colorado Springs. More than 100 colorful hot-air balloons launch from Memorial Park, making this one of the largest balloon rallies in the country. Call tel. 719/471-4833 or visit www.balloonclassic.com for more information. Labor Day weekend.

A Taste of Colorado, Denver. This is Denver's largest celebration, with an annual attendance of about 400,000. Local restaurants serve house specialties; there are also crafts exhibits and free concerts. Call tel. 303/295-6330 or visit www.atasteofcolorado.com for details. Labor Day weekend.

Vail Oktoberfest, Vail. A traditional village-wide weekend celebration, it features street entertainment, German beer and food, dancing, games, and singalongs. Call tel. 970/476-6797 or go to www.vailoktoberfest.com. Mid-September.

Fall Festival, Boulder. An Oktoberfest celebration, this festival includes polka bands, food, carnival rides, and an art fair. Call tel. 303/449-3774 or visit www.boulderdowntown.com for more information. Late September or early October.

October

Great American Beer Festival, Denver. Hundreds of American beers are available for sampling, and seminars are presented at what is considered the largest and most prestigious beer event in the United States. Call tel. 303/447-0816 or visit www.beertown.org/events/gabf for information. Early October.

Cowboy Gathering, Durango. Cowboy poetry, Western art, motorless parade, a dance, historical lectures, and demonstrations. Call tel. 970/382-7494 or go to www.durangocowboygathering.org. Early October.

Pumpkin Festival, Denver. This family event, sponsored by Denver Botanic Gardens and held at Chatfield Nature Preserve southwest of town, includes pumpkin picking, food, crafts, hayrides, and other activities. Call tel. 720/865-3500 or visit www.botanicgardens.org for details. Mid-October.

November

Holiday Gift & Garden Market, Denver. Handmade Christmas ornaments, gifts, dried-flower arrangements, and food items are among the unique merchandise at this annual sale at the Denver Botanic Gardens. Call tel. 720/865-3500 or visit www.botanicgardens.org for information. Mid-November.

Christmas Mountain USA, Salida. More than 3,000 lights outline a huge tree; it also boasts a parade of lights and a visit from Santa Claus. Call tel. 877/772-5432 or see www.salidachamber.org. Day after Thanksgiving.

December

World's Largest Christmas Lighting Display, Denver. Some 40,000 colored floodlights illuminate the Denver City and County Building. All month.

Blossoms of Light, Denver. Over 12,000 sparkling lights cascade through the Botanic Gardens. Grand topiaries, nightly entertainment, "kissing spots," whimsical displays, and warm treats make for an unforgettable winter evening. Call tel. 303/865-3500 or visit www.botanicgardens.org for information. All month.

Parade of Lights, Denver. A holiday parade winds through downtown Denver, with floats, balloons, and marching bands. Call tel. 303/478-7878 or visit www.denverparadeoflights.com for information. Early December.

Festival of Lights Parade, Colorado Springs. A nighttime parade kicks off this month-long celebration of the holidays. Features include decorated live trees and holiday scenes from cultures around the world. Call tel. 719/634-5581 or visit www.csfineartscenter.org for information. Early December.

Country Christmas Jubilee at Old Town, Burlington. Victorian carolers and Christmas music, historic buildings decorated in individual themes, bell ringing, plus other Victorian Christmas activities. Call tel. 800/288-1334 or check www.burlingtoncolo.com. Early December.

Christmas with Cody, Golden. Buffalo Bill Cody playing Santa? He sure did, and a reenactor continues the tradition, with gifts for the kids at the Buffalo Bill Memorial Museum. Call tel. 303/526-0744 or 303/526-0747, or check www.buffalobill.org for further information. First Sunday in December.

Olde Golden Christmas, Golden. Come to Golden for an old-fashioned candlelight walk on the first Friday in December, and stay for weekend festivities in town. Call tel. 303/279-3113 or visit www.goldencochamber.org for information. Begins in early December.

Pikes Peak Summit Fireworks, Colorado Springs. A wondrous fireworks display to ring in the New Year. Call (tel. 800/888-4748 or 719/635-7506, or check out www.coloradosprings-travel.com. December 31.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Medical Requirements -- Unless you're arriving from an area known to be suffering from an epidemic (particularly cholera or yellow fever), inoculations or vaccinations are not required for entry into the United States.

Passports

New regulations issued by the Department of Homeland Security now require virtually every air traveler entering the U.S. to show a passport. As of January 23, 2007, all persons, including U.S. citizens, traveling by air between the United States and Canada, Mexico, Central and South America, the Caribbean, and Bermuda are required to present a valid passport. As of January 31, 2008, U.S. and Canadian citizens entering the U.S. at land and sea ports of entry from within the Western Hemisphere will need to present government-issued proof of citizenship, such as a birth certificate, along with a government-issued photo ID, such as a driver's license. A passport is not required for U.S. or Canadian citizens entering by land or sea, but it is highly encouraged to carry one.

The websites listed below provide downloadable passport applications as well as the current fees for processing applications. For an up-to-date, country-by-country listing of passport requirements around the world, go to the "International Travel" tab of the U.S. State Department website at http://travel.state.gov. International visitors to the U.S. can obtain a visa application at the same website. Note: Children are required to present a passport when entering the United States at airports. More information on obtaining a passport for a minor can be found at http://travel.state.gov. Allow plenty of time before your trip to apply for a passport; processing normally takes 4 to 6 weeks (3 weeks for expedited service) but can take longer during busy periods (especially spring). And keep in mind that if you need a passport in a hurry, you'll pay a higher processing fee.

For Residents of Australia -- You can pick up an application from your local post office or any branch of Passports Australia, but you must schedule an interview at the passport office to present your application materials. Call the Australian Passport Information Service at tel. 13/12-32, or visit the government website at www.passports.gov.au.

For Residents of Canada -- Passport applications are available at travel agencies throughout Canada or from the central Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca). Note: Canadian children who travel must have their own passports. However, if you hold a valid Canadian passport issued before December 11, 2001, that bears the name of your child, the passport remains valid for you and your child until it expires.

For Residents of Ireland -- You can apply for a 10-year passport at the Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.irlgov.ie/iveagh). Those under age 18 and over 65 must apply for a 3-year passport. You can also apply at 1A South Mall, Cork (tel. 21/494-4700), or at most main post offices.

For Residents of New Zealand -- You can pick up a passport application at any New Zealand Passports Office or download a copy from the website. Contact the Passports Office at tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100, or log on to www.passports.govt.nz.

For Residents of the United Kingdom -- To pick up an application for a standard 10-year passport (5-yr. passport for children under 16), visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency, or contact the United Kingdom Passport Service (tel. 0870/521-0410; www.ukpa.gov.uk).

Visas

The U.S. State Department has a Visa Waiver Program (VWP) allowing citizens of the following countries to enter the United States without a visa for stays of up to 90 days: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Denmark, Finland, France, Germany, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Liechtenstein, Luxembourg, Monaco, the Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, and the United Kingdom. (Note: This list was accurate at press time; for the most up-to-date list of countries in the VWP, consult www.travel.state.gov/visa.) Canadian citizens may enter the United States without visas; they will need to show passports (if traveling by air) and proof of residence, however. Note: Any passport issued on or after October 26, 2006, by a VWP country must be an e-Passport for VWP travelers to be eligible to enter the U.S. without a visa. Citizens of these nations also need to present a round-trip air or cruise ticket upon arrival. E-Passports contain computer chips capable of storing biometric information, such as the required digital photograph of the holder. (You can identify an e-Passport by the symbol on the bottom center cover of your passport.) If your passport doesn't have this feature, you can still travel without a visa if it is a valid passport issued before October 26, 2005, and includes a machine-readable zone, or between October 26, 2005, and October 25, 2006, and includes a digital photograph. For more information, go to www.travel.state.gov/visa.

Citizens of all other countries must have (1) a valid passport that expires at least 6 months later than the scheduled end of their visit to the U.S., and (2) a tourist visa, which may be obtained without charge from any U.S. consulate.

As of January 2004, many international visitors traveling on visas to the United States will be photographed and fingerprinted on arrival at Customs in airports and on cruise ships in a program created by the Department of Homeland Security called US-VISIT. Exempt from the extra scrutiny are visitors entering by land or those (mostly in Europe) that don't require a visa for short-term visits. For more information, go to the Homeland Security website at www.dhs.gov/dhspublic.

For information about U.S. visas, go to http://travel.state.gov and click on "Visas," or see below for information.

Australian citizens can obtain up-to-date visa information from the U.S. Embassy Canberra, Moonah Place, Yarralumla, ACT 2600 (tel. 02/6214-5600; http://usembassy-australia.state.gov/consular).

British subjects can obtain up-to-date visa information by calling the U.S. Embassy Visa Information Line (tel. 0891/200-290; www.usembassy.org.uk).

Irish citizens can obtain up-to-date visa information through the Embassy of the USA Dublin, 42 Elgin Rd., Dublin 4, Ireland (tel. 3531/668-8777; http://dublin.usembassy.gov).

Citizens of New Zealand can obtain up-to-date visa information by contacting the U.S. Embassy New Zealand, 29 Fitzherbert Terrace, Thorndon, Wellington (tel. 644/472-2068; http://wellington.usembassy.gov).

Customs

What You Can Bring into the U.S. -- Every visitor more than 21 years of age may bring in, free of duty, the following: (1) 1 liter of wine or hard liquor; (2) 200 cigarettes, 100 cigars (but not from Cuba), or 3 pounds of smoking tobacco; and (3) $100 worth of gifts. These exemptions are offered to travelers who spend at least 72 hours in the United States and who have not claimed them within the preceding 6 months. It is forbidden to bring into the country almost any meat products (including canned, fresh, and dried meat products such as buillion, soup mixes, and so on). Generally, condiments including vinegars, oils, spices, coffee, tea, and some cheeses and baked goods are permitted. Avoid rice products, as rice can often harbor insects. Bringing fruits and vegetables is not advised, though not prohibited. Customs will allow produce depending on where you got it and where you're going after you arrive in the U.S. Foreign tourists may carry in or out up to $10,000 in U.S. or foreign currency with no formalities; larger sums must be declared to U.S. Customs on entering or leaving, which includes filing form CM 4790. For details regarding U.S. Customs and Border Protection, consult your nearest U.S. embassy or consulate, or the U.S. Customs website (www.customs.ustreas.gov).

What You Can Take Home from Colorado -- Canadian Citizens: For a clear summary of Canadian rules, write for the booklet I Declare, issued by the Canada Border Services Agency (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

U.K. Citizens: For information, contact HM Customs & Excise at tel. 0845/010-9000 (from outside the U.K., 020/8929-0152), or consult their website at www.hmce.gov.uk.

Australian Citizens: A helpful brochure available from Australian consulates or Customs offices is Know Before You Go. For more information, call the Australian Customs Service at tel. 1300/363-263 or log on to www.customs.gov.au.

New Zealand Citizens: Most questions are answered in a free pamphlet available at New Zealand consulates and Customs offices: New Zealand Customs Guide for Travellers, Notice no. 4. For more information, contact New Zealand Customs, The Customhouse, 17-21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington (tel. 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786; www.customs.govt.nz).

Fast Facts

American Express -- The American Express travel agency, 555 17th St., Denver (tel. 303/383-5050), is open Monday through Friday from 8am to 5pm. It offers full member services and currency exchange.

Area Codes -- In the Denver and Boulder area, the telephone area codes are 303 and 720. In the south-central and southeast (Colorado Springs), the area code is 719. In the north and west, the area code is 970.

Automobile Organizations -- The American Automobile Association (AAA) is the major auto club in the United States. If you belong to a motor club in your home country, inquire about AAA reciprocity before you leave. You may be able to join AAA even if you're not a member of a reciprocal club; to inquire, call AAA (tel. 800/222-4357; www.aaa.com). AAA is actually an organization of regional motor clubs, so look under "AAA Automobile Club" in the White Pages of the telephone directory. AAA has a nationwide emergency road service telephone number (tel. 800/AAA-HELP [222-4357]).

Business Hours -- Generally, businesses are open weekdays from 9am to 5pm and government offices are open from 8am until 4:30 or 5pm. Stores are open 6 days a week, with many also open on Sunday; department stores usually stay open until 9pm at least 1 day a week. Discount stores and supermarkets are often open later than other stores, and some supermarkets are open 24 hours a day. Banks are usually open weekdays from 9am to 5pm, occasionally a bit later on Friday, and sometimes on Saturday. There's 24-hour access to automated teller machines (ATMs) at most banks, plus in many shopping centers and other outlets.

Drinking Laws -- The legal age for purchase and consumption of alcoholic beverages is 21; proof of age is required and often requested at bars, nightclubs, and restaurants, so it's always a good idea to bring ID when you go out.

Do not carry open containers of alcohol in your car or any public area that isn't zoned for alcohol consumption. The police can fine you on the spot. And nothing will ruin your trip faster than getting a citation for DUI ("driving under the influence"), so don't even think about driving while intoxicated.

In 2008, Colorado retracted its "blue laws" banning the sale of hard alcohol and beer over 3.2% alcohol content on Sundays.

Electricity -- Like Canada, the United States uses 110-120 volts AC (60 cycles), compared to 220-240 volts AC (50 cycles) in most of Europe, Australia, and New Zealand. Downward converters that change 220-240 volts to 110-120 volts are difficult to find in the United States, so bring one with you.

Embassies & Consulates -- All embassies are located in the nation's capital, Washington, D.C. Some consulates are located in major U.S. cities, and most nations have a mission to the United Nations in New York City. If your country isn't listed below, call for directory information in Washington, D.C. (tel. 202/555-1212), or check www.embassy.org/embassies.

The consulate of Australia is at 2629 Main St., Ste. 190, Littleton, CO 80120-4643 (tel. 303/321-2234; www.austemb.org).

The consulate of Canada is at 1625 Broadway, Ste. 2600, Denver, CO 80202 (tel. 303/626-0640; www.canadianembassy.org).

The embassy of Ireland is at 2234 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20008 (tel. 202/462-3939; www.irelandemb.org). Irish consulates are in Boston, Chicago, New York, San Francisco, and other cities.

The embassy of New Zealand is at 37 Observatory Circle NW, Washington, DC 20008 (tel. 202/328-4800; www.nzembassy.com). New Zealand consulates are in Los Angeles, Salt Lake City, San Francisco, and Seattle.

The consulate of the United Kingdom is at 1675 Broadway, Ste. 1030, Denver, CO 80202 (tel. 303/592-5200; www.britainusa.com).

Emergencies -- In case of emergency, call tel. 911. For the Colorado Poison Center, call tel. 303/739-1123. For the Rape Crisis and Domestic Violence Hotline, call tel. 303/318-9989.

Gasoline (Petrol) -- At press time, in the U.S., the cost of gasoline (also known as gas, but never petrol) was about $2 a gallon in Denver and the vicinity. Taxes are already included in the printed price. One U.S. gallon equals 3.8 liters or .85 imperial gallons. Fill-up locations are known as gas or service stations.

Holidays -- Banks, government offices, post offices, and many stores, restaurants, and museums are closed on the following legal national holidays: January 1 (New Year's Day), the third Monday in January (Martin Luther King, Jr., Day), the third Monday in February (Presidents' Day), the last Monday in May (Memorial Day), July 4 (Independence Day), the first Monday in September (Labor Day), the second Monday in October (Columbus Day), November 11 (Veterans' Day/Armistice Day), the fourth Thursday in November (Thanksgiving Day), and December 25 (Christmas). The Tuesday after the first Monday in November is Election Day, a federal government holiday in presidential-election years (held every 4 years, and next in 2012).

Internet Access -- Coffee shops, libraries, FedEx Office locations, and most hotels offer Internet access on Colorado's Front Range.

Laundromats -- There are numerous laundromats in Denver, Boulder, Colorado Springs, and the rest of Colorado; consult local phone books.

Legal Aid -- If you are "pulled over" for a minor infraction (such as speeding), never attempt to pay the fine directly to a police officer; this could be construed as attempted bribery, a much more serious crime. Pay fines by mail or directly into the hands of the clerk of the court. If accused of a more serious offense, say and do nothing before consulting a lawyer. Here the burden is on the state to prove a person's guilt beyond a reasonable doubt, and everyone has the right to remain silent, whether he or she is suspected of a crime or actually arrested. Once arrested, a person can make one telephone call to a party of his or her choice. International visitors should call their embassy or consulate.

Lost & Found -- Be sure to tell all of your credit card companies the minute you discover your wallet has been lost or stolen and file a report at the nearest police precinct. Your credit card company or insurer may require a police report number or record of the loss. Most credit card companies have an emergency toll-free number to call if your card is lost or stolen; they may be able to wire you a cash advance immediately or deliver an emergency credit card in a day or two. Visa's U.S. emergency number is tel. 800/847-2911 or 410/581-9994. American Express cardholders and traveler's check holders should call tel. 800/221-7282. MasterCard holders should call tel. 800/307-7309 or 636/722-7111. For other credit cards, call the toll-free number directory at tel. 800/555-1212.

If you need emergency cash over the weekend when all banks and American Express offices are closed, you can have money wired to you via Western Union (tel. 800/325-6000; www.westernunion.com).

Mail -- At press time, domestic postage rates were 26¢ for a postcard and 42¢ for a letter. For international mail, a first-class letter of up to 1 ounce costs 90¢ (69¢ to Canada and Mexico); a first-class postcard costs the same as a letter. For more information go to www.usps.com and click on "Calculate Postage."

If you aren't sure what your address will be in the United States, mail can be sent to you, in your name, c/o General Delivery at the main post office of the city or region where you expect to be. (Call tel. 800/275-8777 for information on the nearest post office.) The addressee must pick up mail in person and must produce proof of identity (driver's license, passport, and so on). Most post offices will hold your mail for up to 1 month and are open Monday to Friday from 8am to 6pm, and Saturday from 9am to 3pm.

Always include zip codes when mailing items in the U.S. If you don't know your zip code, visit www.usps.com/zip4.

Maps -- The region's best map store, Mapsco Map and Travel Center, 800 Lincoln St., Denver, CO 80203 (tel. 800/456-8703 or 303/830-2373; www.mapsco.com), offers USGS and recreation maps, state maps and travel guides, raised relief maps, and globes.

Medical Conditions -- If you have a medical condition that requires syringe-administered medications, carry a valid signed prescription from your physician; syringes in carry-on baggage will be inspected. Insulin in any form should have the proper pharmaceutical documentation. If you have a disease that requires treatment with narcotics, you should also carry documented proof with you -- smuggling narcotics aboard a plane carries severe penalties in the U.S.

For HIV-positive visitors, requirements for entering the United States are somewhat vague and change frequently. For up-to-the-minute information, contact AIDSinfo (tel. 800/448-0440 or 301/519-6616 outside the U.S.; www.aidsinfo.nih.gov) or the Gay Men's Health Crisis (tel. 212/367-1000; www.gmhc.org).

Newspapers & Magazines -- The Denver Post (www.denverpost.com) is Colorado's largest daily newspaper, with coverage of the Denver metropolitan area plus news of the state. The Rocky Mountain News (www.rockymountainnews.com) also covers the metropolitan area. Each publishes a weekday edition; only the News prints on Saturday, and only the Post appears on Sunday. A widely read free weekly, Westword (www.westword.com), is known as much for its controversial jabs at local politicians and celebrities as for its entertainment listings. In Boulder and Colorado Springs, the daily newspapers are the Daily Camera and The Gazette, respectively.

Police -- Call tel. 911 for emergencies.

Smoking -- As of 2006, smoking was banned in all public places in Colorado, including restaurants and bars.

Taxes -- Colorado has a 2.9% state sales tax; local jurisdictions often add another 4% or 5%. Lodging tax is typically 10% to 15%. The United States has no value-added tax (VAT) or other indirect tax at the national level. Every state, county, and city may levy its own local tax on all purchases, including hotel and restaurant checks and airline tickets. These taxes will not appear on price tags.

Telegraph, Telex & Fax -- Telegraph and telex services are provided primarily by Western Union (tel. 800/325-6000; www.westernunion.com). You can telegraph (wire) money, or have it telegraphed to you, very quickly over the Western Union system, but this can cost 15% to 20% of the amount sent.

Most hotels have fax machines available for use (be sure to ask about the charge to use them). Many hotel rooms are wired for guests' fax machines. A less expensive way to send and receive faxes may be at stores such as the UPS Store.

Telephones -- Many groceries and packaging services sell prepaid calling cards in denominations up to $50; for international visitors these can be the least expensive way to call home. Many public pay phones now accept American Express, MasterCard, and Visa credit cards. Local calls made from pay phones in most locales cost either 25¢ or 35¢ (no pennies, please). Most long-distance and international calls can be dialed directly from any phone. For calls within the United States and to Canada, dial 1 followed by the area code and the seven-digit number. For other international calls, dial 011 followed by the country code, city code, and the number you are calling.

Calls to area codes 800, 888, 877, and 866 are toll free. However, calls to area codes 700 and 900 can be very expensive -- usually a charge of 95¢ to $3 or more per minute, and they sometimes have minimum charges that can run as high as $15 or more.

For reversed-charge or collect calls, and for person-to-person calls, dial the number 0, then the area code and number; an operator will come on the line, and you should specify whether you are calling collect, person-to-person, or both. If your operator-assisted call is international, ask for the overseas operator.

For local directory assistance ("information"), dial tel. 411; for long-distance information, dial 1, then the appropriate area code and 555-1212.

Time -- All of Colorado is in the Mountain Standard Time Zone. The continental United States is divided into four time zones: Eastern Standard Time (EST), Central Standard Time (CST), Mountain Standard Time (MST), and Pacific Standard Time (PST). Alaska and Hawaii have their own zones. When it's 9am in Los Angeles (PST), it's 7am in Honolulu (HST), 10am in Denver (MST), 11am in Chicago (CST), noon in New York City (EST), 5pm in London (GMT), and 2am the next day in Sydney.

Daylight saving time is in effect from 1am on the second Sunday in March to 1am on the first Sunday in November, except in Arizona, Hawaii, the U.S. Virgin Islands, and Puerto Rico. Daylight saving time moves the clock 1 hour ahead of standard time.

Tipping -- In Colorado, tips are a very important part of certain workers' income, and gratuities are the standard way of showing appreciation for services provided. (Tipping is certainly not compulsory if the service is poor!) In hotels, tip bellhops at least $1 per bag ($2-$3 if you have a lot of luggage) and tip the chamber staff $1 to $2 per day (more if you've left a disaster area for him or her to clean up). Tip the doorman or concierge only if he or she has provided you with some specific service (for example, calling a cab for you or obtaining difficult-to-get theater tickets). Tip the valet-parking attendant $1 every time you get your car.

In restaurants, bars, and nightclubs, tip service staff 15% to 20% of the check, tip bartenders 10% to 15%, tip checkroom attendants $1 per garment, and tip valet-parking attendants $1 per vehicle.

As for other service personnel, tip cab drivers 15% of the fare; tip skycaps at airports at least $1 per bag ($2-$3 if you have a lot of luggage); and tip hairdressers and barbers 15% to 20%.

Toilets -- You won't find public toilets or "restrooms" on the streets in most U.S. cities, but they can be found in hotel lobbies, bars, restaurants, museums, department stores, railway and bus stations, and service stations. Restaurants and bars in resorts or heavily visited areas may reserve their restrooms for patrons.

Useful Phone Numbers -- City of Denver (non-emergency): tel. 311. Colorado Road Conditions: tel. 303/639-1111. U.S. Dept. of State Travel Advisory: tel. 202/647-5225 (manned 24 hr.). U.S. Passport Agency: tel. 202/647-0518. U.S. Centers for Disease Control International Traveler's Hotline: tel. 404/332-4559.

Health & Insurance

Insurance

Medical Insurance -- Although it's not required of travelers, health insurance is highly recommended. Most health insurance policies cover you if you get sick away from home -- but check your coverage before you leave.

International visitors to the U.S. should note that, unlike many European countries, the United States does not usually offer free or low-cost medical care to its citizens or visitors. Doctors and hospitals are expensive and, in most cases will require advance payment or proof of coverage before they render their services. Good policies will cover the costs of an accident, repatriation, or death. Packages such as Europ Assistance's Worldwide Healthcare Plan are sold by European automobile clubs and travel agencies at attractive rates. Worldwide Assistance Services, Inc. (tel. 800/777-8710; www.worldwideassistance.com) is the agent for Europ Assistance in the United States.

Though lack of health insurance may prevent you from being admitted to a hospital in non-emergencies, don't worry about being left on a street corner to die: The American way is to fix you now and bill the daylights out of you later.

If you're ever hospitalized more than 150 miles from home, MedJetAssist (tel. 800/527-7478; www.medjetassistance.com) will pick you up and fly you to the hospital of your choice in a medically equipped and staffed aircraft 24 hours day, 7 days a week. Annual memberships are $225 individual, $350 family; you can also purchase short-term memberships.

Canadians should check with their provincial health plan offices or call Health Canada (tel. 866/225-0709; www.hc-sc.gc.ca) to find out the extent of their coverage and what documentation and receipts they must take home in case they are treated in the United States.

Travelers from the U.K. should carry their European Health Insurance Card (EHIC), which replaced the E111 form as proof of entitlement to free/reduced-cost medical treatment abroad (tel. 0845/606-2030; www.ehic.org.uk). Note, however, that the EHIC only covers "necessary medical treatment," and for repatriation costs, lost money, baggage, or cancellation, travel insurance from a reputable company should always be sought (www.travelinsuranceweb.com).

Travel Insurance -- The cost of travel insurance varies widely, depending on the destination, the cost and length of your trip, your age and health, and the type of trip you're taking -- but expect to pay between 5% and 8% of the vacation itself. You can get estimates from various providers through InsureMyTrip.com. Enter your trip cost and dates, your age, and other information, for prices from more than a dozen companies.

U.K. citizens and their families who make more than one trip abroad per year may find an annual travel insurance policy works out cheaper. Check www.moneysupermarket.com, which compares prices across a wide range of providers for single- and multitrip policies.

Most big travel agents offer their own insurance and will probably try to sell you their package when you book a holiday. Think before you sign. Britain's Consumers' Association recommends that you insist on seeing the policy and reading the fine print before buying travel insurance. The Association of British Insurers (tel. 020/7600-3333; www.abi.org.uk) gives advice by phone and publishes Holiday Insurance, a free guide to policy provisions and prices. You might also shop around for better deals: Try Columbus Direct (tel. 0870/033-9988; www.columbusdirect.net).

Trip Cancellation Insurance -- Trip-cancellation insurance will help retrieve your money if you have to back out of a trip or depart early, or if your travel supplier goes bankrupt. Trip cancellation traditionally covers such events as sickness, natural disasters, and State Department advisories. The latest news in trip-cancellation insurance is the availability of expanded hurricane coverage and the "any-reason" cancellation coverage -- which costs more but covers cancellations made for any reason. You won't get back 100% of your prepaid trip cost, but you'll be refunded a substantial portion. TravelSafe (tel. 888/885-7233; www.travelsafe.com) offers both types of coverage. Expedia also offers any-reason cancellation coverage for its air-hotel packages. For details, contact one of the following recommended insurers: Access America (tel. 866/807-3982; www.accessamerica.com), Travel Guard International (tel. 800/826-4919; www.travelguard.com), Travel Insured International (tel. 800/243-3174; www.travelinsured.com), and Travelex Insurance Services (tel. 888/457-4602; www.travelex-insurance.com).

Staying Healthy

Colorado's Front Range has its fair share of regional health concerns to be aware of before your trip, most of them relating to the altitude and the wildlife, but these can easily be avoided in most cases.

General Availability of Health Care -- Contact the International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers (IAMAT; tel. 716/754-4883 or, in Canada, 416/652-0137; www.iamat.org) for tips on travel and health concerns in the United States, and for lists of local, English-speaking doctors. The United States Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (tel. 800/311-3435; www.cdc.gov) provides up-to-date information on health hazards by region or country and offers tips on food safety. The website www.tripprep.com, sponsored by a consortium of travel medicine practitioners, may also offer helpful advice on traveling to the U.S. You can find listings of reliable U.S. clinics at the International Society of Travel Medicine (www.istm.org).

Common Ailments

Altitude Sickness -- About two-thirds of Colorado is more than a mile above sea level, which means there is less oxygen and lower humidity than many travelers are accustomed to. This creates a unique set of problems for short-term visitors, such as the possibility of shortness of breath, fatigue, and other physical concerns.

Those not used to higher elevations should get sufficient rest, avoid large meals, and drink plenty of nonalcoholic fluids, especially water. Individuals with heart or respiratory problems should consult their personal physicians before planning a trip to the Colorado mountains. Those in generally good health need not take any special precautions, but it is best to ease the transition to high elevations by changing altitude gradually. For instance, spend a night or two in Denver (elevation 5,280 ft.) or Colorado Springs (elevation 6,035 ft.) before driving or taking the cog railway to the top of Pikes Peak (elevation 14,110 ft.).

Lowlanders can also help their bodies adjust to higher elevations by taking it easy for their first few days in the mountains, cutting down on cigarettes and alcohol, and avoiding sleeping pills and other drugs. Your doctor can provide prescription drugs to help prevent and relieve symptoms of altitude sickness.

Because the sun's rays are more direct in the thinner atmosphere, they cause sunburn more quickly. The potential for skin damage increases when the sun reflects off snow or water. A good sunblock is strongly recommended, as are good-quality ultraviolet-blocking sunglasses. Remember that children need more protection than adults.

Hantavirus -- State health officials warn outdoor enthusiasts to take precautions against the Hantavirus, a rare but often fatal respiratory disease first recognized in 1993. About half of the country's confirmed cases have been reported in the Four Corners states of Colorado, New Mexico, Arizona, and Utah. The disease is usually spread by the urine and droppings of deer mice and other rodents, and health officials recommend that campers avoid areas with signs of rodent droppings. Symptoms of Hantavirus are similar to flu and lead to breathing difficulties and shock.

West Nile Virus -- Colorado has also had its share of cases of the West Nile virus illness. The best prevention is mosquito repellant. The virus can be fatal but typically is not. Symptoms include fever, headache, and body aches.

What to Do If You Get Sick Away from Home

If you suffer from a chronic illness, consult your doctor before your departure. Pack prescription medications in your carry-on luggage, and carry them in their original containers, with pharmacy labels -- otherwise, they won't make it through airport security. Visitors from outside the U.S. should carry generic names of prescription drugs. For U.S. travelers, most reliable health-care plans provide coverage if you get sick away from home. Foreign visitors may have to pay all medical costs upfront and be reimbursed later.

Staying Safe

While there are many reasons to visit Colorado and its major cities, two of the reasons most often cited are its historic sites and its magnificent outdoor activities. However, visiting historic sites and participating in outdoor activities can lead to accidents.

When visiting such historic sites as ghost towns, gold mines, and railroads, keep in mind that they were probably built more than 100 years ago, at a time when safety standards were extremely lax, if they existed at all. Never enter abandoned buildings, mines, or railroad equipment on your own. When you're visiting commercially operated historic tourist attractions, use common sense and don't be afraid to ask questions.

Walkways in mines are often uneven and poorly lit, and are sometimes slippery due to seeping groundwater that can also stain your clothing with its high iron content. When entering old buildings, be prepared for steep, narrow stairways; creaky floors; and low ceilings and doorways. Steam trains are a wonderful experience as long as you remember that steam is very hot, and that oil and grease can ruin your clothing.

When heading to the great outdoors, keep in mind that injuries often occur when people fail to follow instructions. Pay attention when the experts tell you to stay on established ski trails, hike only in designated areas, carry rain gear, and wear a life jacket when rafting. Mountain weather can be fickle, and many of the most beautiful spots are in remote areas. Be prepared for extreme changes in temperature at any time of year, and watch out for sudden summer-afternoon thunderstorms that can leave you drenched and shivering in minutes.

Escorted & Package Tours

Package tours are simply a way to buy the airfare, accommodations, and other elements of your trip (such as car rentals, airport transfers, and even activities) at the same time and often at discounted prices. Many of the hotels in Denver, Boulder, and Colorado Springs offer specific packages, like the Broadmoor and golf or Hotel Teatro and theatre, and many offer packages involving outdoor recreation in the Rockies. Ski packages are available from all the major resorts, and there is often significant savings available if you bundle lift tickets, lodging, and airfare.

Escorted General-Interest Tours

Escorted tours are structured group tours, with a group leader. The price usually includes everything from airfare to hotels, meals, tours, admission costs, and local transportation. Below are some of the better companies that offer escorted tours in the Denver, Boulder, and Colorado Springs areas.

Gray Line, 5855 E. 56th Ave. (P.O. Box 646), Denver, CO 80217 (tel. 303/289-2841; www.coloradograyline.com), provides traditional bus and van tours to the U.S. Air Force Academy, Pikes Peak, Rocky Mountain National Park, and historic sites of Denver.

Maupintour, 2688 Rainbow Blvd., Las Vegas, NV 89146 (tel. 800/255-4266; www.maupintour.com), offers a variety of tours, including well-planned multiday tours of Rocky Mountain National Park and other scenic and historic areas.

Despite the fact that escorted tours require big deposits and predetermined hotels, restaurants, and itineraries, many people derive security and peace of mind from the structure they offer. Escorted tours let travelers sit back and enjoy the trip without having to worry about details. They take you to the maximum number of sights in the minimum amount of time with the least amount of hassle. They're particularly convenient for people with limited mobility and they can be a great way to make new friends.

On the downside, you'll have little opportunity for serendipitous interactions with locals. The tours can be jam-packed with activities, leaving little room for individual sightseeing or adventure -- plus they often focus on the heavily touristed sites, so you miss out on many a lesser-known gem.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

In general, gay and lesbian travelers will find they are treated just like any other travelers in Colorado. Even cities such as Colorado Springs, home of Focus on the Family and other conservative groups, have become somewhat more open-minded about alternative lifestyles recently. Those with specific concerns can contact Gay, Lesbian, Bisexual, and Transgender Community Services Center of Colorado (tel. 303/733-7743; www.glbtcolorado.org) in Denver; the organization can also provide information on events and venues of interest to gay and lesbian visitors.

The International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA; tel. 954/776-2626; www.iglta.org) is the trade association for the gay and lesbian travel industry, and offers an online directory of gay- and lesbian-friendly travel businesses; go to its website and click on "Members."

Tips on Accommodations

Denver, Boulder, and Colorado Springs offer a variety of lodging options, from typical American chains to luxury hotels, cozy bed-and-breakfasts to inexpensive mom-and-pop independent motels, cabins to magnificent grande dame hotels.

The chains here are the same ones you see everywhere else in America: Best Western, Comfort, Days Inn, Embassy Suites, Hampton Inn, Hilton, Holiday Inn, Motel 6, Quality Inn, Sheraton, Super 8, Travelodge, and so on. They look just about the same as those found elsewhere and have the same levels of service. In most cases, their rooms are little more than boring boxes of various sizes, with beds and the appropriate plumbing and heating fixtures, and, if you're lucky, a decent view out the window. These chains, even the high-end ones like Hilton and Sheraton, are fine if you just want a place to sleep and plan to take advantage of their swimming pools, exercise rooms, and other facilities. However, they do very little to enhance your vacation experience or even to let you know you're in Colorado.

To make your lodging an integral part of your Colorado experience, I suggest choosing a historic property. I discuss numerous historic bed-and-breakfast inns in the following pages, and -- especially when you take into consideration the wonderful breakfasts most of them serve -- the rates are fairly reasonable. Why spend $90 for a boring motel room and then another $10 to $15 for breakfast when for just a bit more you can sleep in a handsome, antiques-decorated Victorian home and enjoy a home-cooked breakfast?

This area of Colorado also has several magnificent but pricey historic hotels, including the absolutely wonderful Brown Palace in Denver and the family-friendly Broadmoor in Colorado Springs. These hotels are as much attractions as lodgings, and what better way to see them than to book a room for the night, just as others have done for the better part of a century?

Other lodging choices here include cabins and a handful of small independent motels. Both are usually fairly inexpensive, although they often lack the facilities, such as pools, spas, and exercise equipment, that you'll find in most chains. I still prefer the cabins and independents, though, because they're often a very good value and the rooms usually have at least some personality (can anybody actually describe the decor of the last Super 8 or Days Inn he or she stayed at?), and cabins, although sometimes a bit primitive, are often in beautiful settings.

House-Swapping -- House-swapping is becoming a more popular and viable means of travel: You stay in their place, they stay in yours, and you both get an authentic and personal view of the area, the opposite of the escapist retreat that many hotels offer. Try HomeLink International (www.homelink.org), the largest and oldest home-swapping organization, founded in 1952, with over 11,000 listings worldwide ($75 for a yearly membership). HomeExchange.org ($50 for 6,000 listings) and InterVac.com ($69 for over 10,000 listings) are also reliable. Many travelers find great housing swaps on Craigslist (www.craigslist.org), too, though the offerings cannot be vetted or vouched for. Swap at your own risk.

Visitor Information

Start by contacting the Colorado Tourism Office, 1625 Broadway, Denver, CO 80202 (tel. 800/COLORADO [265-6723]; www.colorado.com), for a free copy of the official state vacation guide, which includes a state map and describes attractions, activities, and lodgings throughout Colorado. Another good source for Colorado information is the website of the Denver Post, the state's major daily newspaper, at www.denverpost.com.

The Colorado Hotel and Lodging Association, 999 18th St., Ste. 1240, Denver, CO 80202 (tel. 303/297-8335; www.coloradolodging.com), offers a free guide to lodging across the state. The nonprofit Bed and Breakfast Innkeepers of Colorado, P.O. Box 38416, Colorado Springs, CO 80937 (tel. 800/265-7696; www.innsofcolorado.org), distributes a free directory describing about 100 B&Bs across the state, including a number of historic inns in Denver, Boulder, and Colorado Springs.

Hostelling International USA, 8401 Colesville Rd., Ste. 600, Silver Spring, MD 20910 (tel. 301/495-1240; www.hiayh.org), has a computerized system for making reservations in hostels worldwide and also has a print directory of U.S. hostels.

A free copy of Your Guide to Outdoor Adventure, which contains details on the state's 40 parks, is available from state park offices at 1313 Sherman St., Ste. 618, Denver, CO 80203 (tel. 303/866-3437; www.parks.state.co.us). State park offices can also provide information on boating and snowmobiling.

Tips for Travelers with Pets

Many of us wouldn't dream of going on vacation without our pets. Under the right circumstances, it can be a wonderful experience for both you and your animals. Dogs and cats are accepted at many lodgings in Colorado, but not as universally in resorts and at the more expensive hotels. Throughout this book, I've tried to consistently note those lodgings that take pets. Some properties require you to pay a fee or damage deposit in advance, and most insist they be notified at check-in that you have a pet.

Be aware, however, that national parks and monuments and other federal lands administered by the National Park Service are not pet friendly. Dogs are usually prohibited on all hiking trails, must always be leashed, and in some cases cannot be taken more than 100 feet from established roads. On the other hand, U.S. Forest Service and Bureau of Land Management areas and most state parks are pro-pet, allowing dogs on trails and just about everywhere except inside buildings. State parks require that dogs be leashed; regulations in national forests and BLM lands are generally looser.

Aside from regulations, though, you need to be concerned with your pet's well-being. Just as people need extra water in Colorado's dry climate, so do pets. I especially like those clever spill-resistant travel water bowls sold in pet shops. And keep in mind that many trails are rough, and jagged rocks can cut the pads on your dog's feet.

Getting There

By Plane

Those flying to Colorado will probably land at Denver International Airport or Colorado Springs Airport. Both airports are on the fringes of their respective city, so it can be a tossup depending on your route. Denver certainly has the best average prices. Both offer car rentals and shuttle services to their city's hotels.

Denver International Airport (DIA) is 23 miles northeast of downtown Denver, about a 35- to 45-minute drive. It is the sixth-busiest airport in the nation, with six runways and 93 gates. An information line (tel. 800/AIR-2-DEN [247-2336] or 303/342-2000; www.flydenver.com) provides data on flight schedules and connections, parking, ground transportation, current weather conditions, and local accommodations. The local airport information and paging number is tel. 303/342-2300. Airlines serving Denver include Air Canada (tel. 888/247-2262; www.aircanada.ca), Alaska Airlines (tel. 800/252-7524; www.alaskaair.com), American (tel. 800/433-7300; www.aa.com), Continental (tel. 800/523-3273; www.continental.com), Delta (tel. 800/221-1212; www.delta.com), Frontier (tel. 800/432-1359; www.frontierairlines.com), jetBlue Airways (tel. 800/538-2583; www.jetblue.com), Mexicana (tel. 800/531-7921; www.mexicana.com), Midwest Airlines (tel. 800/452-2022; www.midwestairlines.com), Northwest (tel. 800/225-2525; www.nwa.com), Southwest (tel. 800/435-9792; www.southwest.com), United (tel. 800/241-6522; www.ual.com), and US Airways (tel. 800/428-4322; www.usair.com).

Colorado Springs Airport (COS), located in the southeast corner of Colorado Springs (tel. 719/550-1900), has nearly 100 flights each day, with connections to most major U.S. cities. Allegiant (tel. 702/505-8888; www.allegiantair.com), American, Continental, ExpressJet (tel. 888/958-9538; www.expressjet.com), Frontier, Northwest, United, and US Airways serve Colorado Springs.

Flights from the United Kingdom -- British Airways (tel. 800/247-9297 or 0845/773-3377 in London; www.british-airways.com) offers one daily nonstop flight between London and Denver. Travelers from the United Kingdom can also take British Airways to other U.S. cities and make connecting flights to Denver or Colorado Springs.

Arriving at the Airport -- International visitors arriving by air, no matter what the port of entry, should cultivate patience and resignation before setting foot on U.S. soil. U.S. airports have considerably beefed up security clearances in the years since the terrorist attacks of September 11, 2001, and clearing Customs and Immigration can take as long as 2 hours.

Getting into Town from the Airport -- Bus, taxi, and limousine services shuttle travelers between the airport and downtown, and most major car-rental companies have outlets at the airport. Many major hotels are some distance from the airport, so travelers should check on the availability and cost of hotel shuttle services when making reservations.

The cost of a city bus ride from the airport to downtown Denver is $9; from the airport to Boulder and suburban Park-n-Ride lots, it is about $11. The SuperShuttle (tel. 800/525-3177 or 303/370-1300; www.supershuttle.com) provides transportation to and from a number of hotels downtown and in the Denver Tech Center for $19 each way; door-to-door service is also available. Taxi companies are another option, with fares generally in the $30-to-$50 range, and you can often share a cab and split the fare by calling the cab company ahead of time. For instance, Yellow Cab (tel. 303/777-7777) will take up to five people from DIA to most downtown hotels for a flat rate of $45. Metro Taxi (tel. 303/333-3333) is the other service in Denver.

By Car

An excellent road system, connecting to interstate highways heading in all directions, makes driving a good and economical choice. This is especially true for those planning excursions out of Denver. Although these cities have good public transportation within their boundaries, a car (either your own or a rental) is practically mandatory for those intent on getting out into the country.

Most major car-rental companies have locations in all three cities; metro Denver has the lion's share of them.

Some 1,000 miles of interstate highways form a star on the map of Colorado, with its center at Denver. (See the state map on the inside back cover.) I-25 crosses the state from south to north, extending from New Mexico to Wyoming; over its 300 miles, it goes through nearly every major city of the Front Range, including Pueblo, Colorado Springs, Denver, and Fort Collins. I-70 crosses from west to east, extending from Utah to Baltimore, Maryland. It enters Colorado near Grand Junction; passes through Glenwood Springs, Vail, and Denver; and exits just east of Burlington, a distance of about 450 miles. I-76 is an additional 190-mile spur that begins in Denver and extends northeast to Nebraska, joining I-80 just beyond Julesburg.

Denver is about 1,025 miles from Los Angeles, 780 miles from Dallas, 600 miles from Kansas City, 510 miles from Salt Lake City, 440 miles from Albuquerque, 750 miles from Las Vegas, 820 miles from Phoenix, 1,010 miles from Chicago, and 1,800 miles from New York.

By Train

Amtrak (tel. 800/USA-RAIL [872-7245]; www.amtrak.com) has two routes through Colorado. The California Zephyr, which links San Francisco and Chicago, passes through Grand Junction, Glenwood Springs, Granby, Winter Park, Denver, and Fort Morgan en route to Omaha, Nebraska. The Southwest Chief, which runs between Los Angeles and Chicago, travels from Albuquerque, New Mexico, via Trinidad, La Junta, and Lamar before crossing the southeastern Colorado border into Kansas.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

Sustainable tourism is conscientious travel. It means being careful with the environments you explore and respecting the communities you visit. Two overlapping components of sustainable travel are eco-tourism and ethical tourism. The International Ecotourism Society (TIES) defines eco-tourism as responsible travel to natural areas that conserves the environment and improves the well-being of local people. TIES suggests that eco-tourists follow these principles:

  • Minimize environmental impact
  • Build environmental and cultural awareness and respect
  • Provide positive experiences for both visitors and hosts
  • Provide direct financial benefits for conservation and for local people
  • Raise sensitivity to host countries' political, environmental, and social climates
  • Support international human rights and labor agreements

You can find some eco-friendly travel tips and statistics, as well as touring companies and associations -- listed by destination under "Travel Choice" -- at the TIES website, www.ecotourism.org. Also check out Ecotravel.com, which lets you search for sustainable touring companies in several categories (water based, land based, spiritually oriented, and so on).

While much of the focus of eco-tourism is about reducing impacts on the natural environment, ethical tourism concentrates on ways to preserve and enhance local economies and communities, regardless of location. You can embrace ethical tourism by staying at a locally owned hotel or shopping at a store that employs local workers and sells locally produced goods.

Responsible Travel (www.responsibletravel.com) is a great source of sustainable travel ideas; the site is run by a spokesperson for ethical tourism in the travel industry. Sustainable Travel International (www.sustainabletravelinternational.org) promotes ethical tourism practices, and manages an extensive directory of sustainable properties and tour operators around the world.

In the U.K., Tourism Concern (www.tourismconcern.org.uk) works to reduce social and environmental problems connected to tourism. The Association of Independent Tour Operators (AITO; www.aito.co.uk) is a group of specialist operators leading the field in making holidays sustainable.

Volunteer travel has become increasingly popular among those who want to venture beyond the standard group-tour experience to learn languages, interact with locals, and make a positive difference while on vacation. Volunteer travel usually doesn't require special skills -- just a willingness to work hard -- and programs vary in length from a few days to a number of weeks. Some programs provide free housing and food, but many require volunteers to pay for travel expenses, which can add up quickly. For general info on volunteer travel, visit www.volunteerabroad.org and www.idealist.org.

Before you commit to a volunteer program, it's important to make sure any money you're giving is truly going back to the local community, and that the work you'll be doing will be a good fit for you. Volunteer International (www.volunteerinternational.org) has a helpful list of questions to ask to determine the intentions.

It's Easy Being Green

Here are a few simple ways you can help conserve fuel and energy when you travel:

  • Each time you take a flight or drive a car, greenhouse gases release into the atmosphere. You can help neutralize this danger to the planet through "carbon offsetting" -- paying someone to invest your money in programs that reduce your greenhouse gas emissions by the same amount you've added. Before buying carbon offset credits, just make sure that you're using a reputable company, one with a proven program that invests in renewable energy. Reliable carbon offset companies include Carbonfund (www.carbonfund.org), TerraPass (www.terrapass.org), and Carbon Neutral (www.carbonneutral.org).

Whenever possible, choose nonstop flights; they generally require less fuel than indirect flights that stop and take off again. Try to fly during the day -- some scientists estimate that nighttime flights are twice as harmful to the environment. And pack light -- each 15 pounds of luggage on a 5,000-mile flight adds up to 50 pounds of carbon dioxide emitted.

Where you stay during your travels can have a major environmental impact. To determine the green credentials of a property, ask about trash disposal and recycling, water conservation, and energy use; also question if sustainable materials were used in the construction of the property. The website www.greenhotels.com recommends green-rated member hotels around the world that fulfill the company's stringent environmental requirements. Also consult www.environmentallyfriendlyhotels.com for more green accommodations ratings.

At hotels, request that your sheets and towels not be changed daily. (Many hotels already have programs like this in place.) Turn off the lights and air-conditioner (or heater) when you leave your room.

Use public transport where possible -- trains, buses and even taxis are more energy-efficient forms of transport than driving. Even better is to walk or cycle; you'll produce zero emissions and stay fit and healthy on your travels.

If renting a car is necessary, ask the rental agent for a hybrid, or rent the most fuel-efficient car available. You'll use less gas and save money at the tank.

Eat at locally owned and operated restaurants that use produce grown in the area. This contributes to the local economy and cuts down on greenhouse gas emissions by supporting restaurants where the food is not flown or trucked in across long distances. Visit Sustain Lane (www.sustainlane.org) to find sustainable eating and drinking choices around the U.S.; also check out www.eatwellguide.org for tips on eating sustainably in the U.S. and Canada.

Staying Connected

Telephones

The area codes for Denver and Boulder are 303 and 720. In Colorado Springs, it's 719. In Denver and Boulder, the full 10-digit phone number is required to make local calls, whereas the area code is not necessary in Colorado Springs. Most convenience stores and supermarkets carry calling cards for national and international calls. Pay phones still exist in the area, but their numbers have been on the decline in recent years. However, they are readily available in the downtowns of all three cities.

Cellphones

All major U.S. cellular networks work fine on the Front Range, but things quickly get spotty outside of the urban cores. If you're not from the U.S., you'll be appalled at the poor reach of the GSM (Global System for Mobile Communications) wireless network, which is used by much of the rest of the world. Your phone will probably work in most major U.S. cities; it may not work in many rural areas. To see where GSM phones work in the U.S., check out www.t-mobile.com/coverage. And you may or may not be able to send SMS (text messaging) home.

Voice Over Internet Protocol (VOIP)

If you have Web access while traveling, consider a broadband-based telephone service (in technical terms, Voice-over Internet Protocol, or VoIP) such as Skype (www.skype.com) or Vonage (www.vonage.com), which allow you to make free international calls from your laptop or in a cybercafe. Neither service requires the people you're calling to also have that service (though there are fees if they do not). Check the websites for details.

Internet & E-Mail

With Your Own Computer -- Wi-Fi is readily available at hotels and hundreds of public places in Denver, Boulder, and Colorado Springs, including Denver's 16th Street Mall. For specific spots, check out the website www.jiwire.com.

Without Your Own Computer -- Most major airports have Internet kiosks that provide basic Web access for a per-minute fee that's usually higher than cybercafe prices. Check out copy shops like Kinko's (FedEx Office), which offers computer stations with fully loaded software (as well as Wi-Fi).

Tips for Senior Travelers

Many Colorado hotels and motels offer special rates to senior citizens, and an increasing number of restaurants, attractions, and public transportation systems offer discounts as well, some for "oldsters" as young as 55.

Members of AARP (formerly known as the American Association of Retired Persons), 601 E St. NW, Washington, DC 20049 (tel. 888/687-2277; www.aarp.org), get discounts on hotels, airfares, and car rentals. AARP offers members a wide range of benefits, including AARP The Magazine and a monthly newsletter. Anyone 50 or older can join.

The U.S. National Park Service offers an America the Beautiful -- National Park and Federal Recreational Lands Pass -- Senior Pass (formerly the Golden Age Passport), which gives seniors 62 years or older lifetime entrance to all properties administered by the National Park Service -- national parks, monuments, historic sites, recreation areas, and national wildlife refuges -- for a one-time processing fee of $10. The pass must be purchased in person at any NPS facility that charges an entrance fee. Besides free entry, the America the Beautiful Senior Pass also offers a 50% discount on some federal-use fees charged for such facilities as camping, swimming, parking, boat launching, and tours. To purchase, go to www.nps.gov/fees_passes.htm or call the United States Geological Survey (USGS), which issues the passes, at tel. 888/275-8747.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Most disabilities shouldn't stop anyone from traveling in the U.S. Thanks to provisions in the Americans with Disabilities Act, most public places are required to comply with disability-friendly regulations. Almost all public establishments (including hotels, restaurants, and museums, but not including certain National Historic Landmarks) and at least some modes of public transportation provide accessible entrances and other facilities for those with disabilities.

The America the Beautiful -- National Park and Federal Recreational Lands Pass -- Access Pass (formerly the Golden Access Passport) gives the visually impaired or persons with permanent disabilities (regardless of age) free lifetime entrance to federal recreation sites administered by the National Park Service, including the Fish and Wildlife Service, the Forest Service, the Bureau of Land Management, and the Bureau of Reclamation. This may include national parks, monuments, historic sites, recreation areas, and national wildlife refuges.

Regions in Brief

The Front Range -- The state's three major cities -- Denver, Boulder, and Colorado Springs -- form a line along the eastern slope of the Rocky Mountains known as the Front Range. These cities are a blend of old and new, rustic and sophisticated, urban and rural. Founded in the mid-19th century by both East Coast gold-seekers and European and Asian immigrants in search of a better life, they became home to what we might call the more civilized pioneer -- the mine owner instead of the prospector, the merchant rather than the gambler.

Today Denver, Boulder, and Colorado Springs have virtually all the amenities you'd expect to find in major U.S. metropolises: opera, theater, dance, art, excellent restaurants, and sophisticated hotels and convention centers. You'll also find historic Victorian mansions, working steam trains, and old gold mines. You can go horseback riding, hiking, skiing, or shopping; or spend hours exploring museums, galleries, and shops.

Northeastern Colorado -- This region is quite different from the major cities and even more of a departure from the rugged mountain towns to the west. Northeastern Colorado contains the sparsely populated plains, a place where buffalo once roamed and pioneer farmers endured drought, dust, snow, and wind to create farms and ranches.

Here is the college town of Fort Collins, home of the large Anheuser-Busch brewery; the town of Loveland, known primarily for its name and Valentine card remailing; plus smaller communities such as Fort Morgan, the boyhood home of big band leader Glenn Miller. This region is dotted with pioneer homes and museums, frontier forts, and preserved downtown districts, plus a surprising number of lakes and seemingly endless fields of wheat and corn.

The Northern Rockies -- For many people, the northern Rockies epitomize Colorado. Here you'll find some of the West's most spectacular and inspiring scenery at Rocky Mountain National Park, as well as America's top ski resorts, including Vail and Aspen, playgrounds to many of Hollywood's beautiful people. But tucked away amid the ski slopes, overpriced boutiques, and towering peaks are delightful historic Old West towns such as Leadville and Steamboat Springs, where you can step back to a simpler, more rugged era. This region is ideal for year-round outdoor activities, from skiing and snowboarding to hiking, mountain biking, fishing, boating, and four-wheeling.

The Western Slope -- This region more closely resembles the canyon country of Utah than Colorado's famed Rocky Mountains. The area is defined in large part by its rivers -- the Colorado, Gunnison, and Yampa -- which over tens of thousands of years have carved ruggedly beautiful canyons. The Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park encompasses an awe-inspiring narrow chasm, and colorful layers of rock define the canyon walls and unusual formations of the Colorado and Dinosaur national monuments. The latter also boasts one of the best dinosaur quarries you'll see anywhere. In addition, the western slope offers about a dozen wineries near the region's largest city, Grand Junction, and mineral hot springs and eye-opening caves in Glenwood Springs, where Old West gunfighter Doc Holliday is buried.

Southwestern Colorado -- Those curious about the prehistoric peoples who once populated the West should head to this part of the state, where Mesa Verde National Park and a number of other sites preserve ancient cliff dwellings and other archaeological sites that help explain what life was like here 1,000 years ago. Also in this region is the historic community of Durango, with its main street (ca. 1880) and narrow-gauge steam railroad. Another Old West town, Telluride, retains its historic charm while emerging as a major ski and summer resort. In addition, the San Juan Mountains rival the vistas in Colorado's northern Rockies.

The Southern Rockies -- An exciting mix of terrain and experiences awaits visitors to the southern Rockies, which contain 30 peaks soaring over 14,000 feet, as well as white-water rafting near Salida, the historic picturesque mining town of Creede, and the tallest sand dunes in North America at Great Sand Dunes National Monument and Preserve. This area also contains splendid boating and fishing at Curecanti National Recreation Area, plus skiing and mountain biking, and a historic narrow-gauge steam train at Antonito, south of Alamosa.

Southeastern Colorado -- History and a scenic stark beauty are the main draws of this region, which is best known for one of the world's most spectacular canyons -- the deep, narrow Royal Gorge, which is carved by the Arkansas River as it makes its way down from the Rocky Mountains to the plains. The sector's largest city, Pueblo, offers outdoor recreation, several good museums, and a fine zoo. Boating and fishing opportunities abound on two lakes -- Pueblo and Trinidad -- both operated as state parks; and Bent's Old Fort is a national historic site that has re-created one of the West's most important frontier trading posts. The towns of Trinidad and La Junta also have a number of historic attractions, and you'll find dinosaur tracks in the Comanche National Grassland.

Money

Generally, Colorado is not particularly expensive, especially compared to destinations on the East and West coasts. You'll find a wide range of prices for lodging and dining; admission to most museums is less than $10. Hotel rooms in the state are typically $100 to $200, but there are exceptions that are lower and higher -- particularly higher when it comes to peak seasons. You'll find main courses for dinner typically running $10 to $20 up and down the Front Range.

Those traveling away from the major cities will discover prices in small towns are usually quite reasonable, but ski resorts such as Vail and Aspen can be rather pricey, especially during winter holidays. Hotel rooms tend to start well over $200 a night in ski season in these resorts, and condos are more.

Traveler's checks and credit cards are accepted at almost all hotels, restaurants, shops, and attractions, plus many grocery stores; automated teller machines for all the major national networks are practically everywhere.

The most common bills are the $1 (a "buck"), $5, $10, and $20 denominations. There are also $2 bills (seldom encountered), $50 bills, and $100 bills. (The last two are usually not welcome as payment for small purchases.)

Coins come in seven denominations: 1¢ (1 cent, or a penny); 5¢ (5 cents, or a nickel); 10¢ (10 cents, or a dime); 25¢ (25 cents, or a quarter); 50¢ (50 cents, or a half-dollar); the gold-colored Sacagawea coin, worth $1; and the rare silver dollar.

The easiest and best way to get cash away from home is from an ATM (automated teller machine). Look at the back of your bank card to see which network you're on; then call or check online for ATM locations at your destination. Be sure you know your personal identification number (PIN) and daily withdrawal limit before you depart. Also, if you have a five- or six-digit PIN, change it to a four-digit PIN before coming to Colorado.

Remember that many banks impose a fee every time you use a card at another bank's ATM, and that fee can be higher for international transactions (up to $5 or more) than for domestic ones (where they're rarely more than $2). In addition, the bank from which you withdraw cash may charge its own fee.

Getting Around

Since most visitors to Colorado will probably be traveling between cities and also into surrounding areas, you will most likely want to rent a car. However, you can save a bit of cash by doing your downtown city exploring, which can be done quite conveniently using public transportation, at either the beginning or the end of your stay, and only renting a car when you plan to leave town.

Each of the individual city reports contains information on car rentals and public transportation. A good first stop: Denver's largest map store, Mapsco Map and Travel Center, 800 Lincoln St., Denver, CO 80203 (tel. 800/456-8703 or 303/830-2373; www.mapsco.com), offers USGS and recreation maps, state maps and travel guides, raised relief maps, and globes.

By Car

In Colorado in general, the most cost-effective way to travel is by car, but Denver, Boulder, and Colorado Springs have pedestrian- and bicycle-friendly routes and at least decent public transportation.

If you're visiting from abroad and plan to rent a car in the United States, keep in mind that foreign driver's licenses are usually recognized in the U.S., but you should get an international one if your home license is not in English.

Check out Breezenet.com, which offers domestic car-rental discounts with some of the most competitive rates around. Also worth visiting are Orbitz.com, Hotwire.com, Travelocity.com, and Priceline.com, all of which offer competitive online car-rental rates.

By Plane

Although you can fly between Denver and Colorado Springs, it's not nearly as economical as driving the 70 miles. Overseas visitors can take advantage of the APEX (Advance Purchase Excursion) reductions offered by all major U.S. and European carriers. In addition, some large airlines offer transatlantic or transpacific passengers special discount tickets under the name Visit USA, which allows mostly one-way travel from one U.S. destination to another at very low prices. Unavailable in the U.S., these discount tickets must be purchased abroad in conjunction with your international fare. This system is the easiest, fastest, cheapest way to see the country.

By Train

Although you can catch an Amtrak train from Union Station in Denver, it's not a particularly good method of travel between Denver, Boulder, and Colorado Springs -- not until a light-rail build-out takes place in the next decade, at least. In Denver, existing light rail is useful for navigating certain attractions.

International visitors can buy a USA Rail Pass, good for 15 or 30 days of unlimited travel on Amtrak (tel. 800/USA-RAIL [872-7245]; www.amtrak.com). The pass is available online or through many overseas travel agents. See Amtrak's website for the cost of travel within the western, eastern, or northwestern United States. Reservations are generally required and should be made as early as possible. Regional rail passes are also available.

By Bus

Bus travel is often the most economical form of public transit for short hops between U.S. cities, but it's certainly not an option for everyone (particularly when Amtrak, which is far more luxurious, offers similar rates). Between Colorado Springs and Denver, the Front Range Express (tel. 719/636-3739; www.frontrangeexpress.com) offers bus service for $9 one-way. Greyhound (tel. 800/231-2222; www.greyhound.com) is the sole nationwide bus line. International visitors can obtain information about the Greyhound North American Discovery Pass from foreign travel agents or through www.discoverypass.com; it provides unlimited travel and stopovers in the U.S. and Canada.

Tips for Families

Colorado is loaded with family attractions, although many touristy areas tend to focus on more adult pursuits. Nonetheless, such kids' landmarks as Tiny Town, Casa Bonita, and Elitch Gardens continue to thrive, and pony rides and kiddie ski schools are widely available in the high country.

If your travels are taking you to Rocky Mountain National Park, Frommer's Family Vacations in the National Parks is a good resource.

When to Go

Colorado has two main tourist seasons: warm and cold. Those who want to see the state's parks and other scenic wonders by hiking, mountain biking, or rafting usually visit from May through October; those who prefer skiing, snowboarding, and snowmobiling will have to wait for winter, usually from late November through March or April, depending on snow levels. Although you can visit most museums year-round, some close in winter.

The best way to avoid crowds at the more popular destinations, such as Rocky Mountain National Park, Garden of the Gods, and Pikes Peak, is to try to visit during the shoulder seasons of March through May and October through mid-December. Generally, those traveling without children will want to avoid visiting during school vacations.

To hear Coloradans tell it, the state has perfect weather all the time. Although they may be exaggerating just a bit, the weather here is usually quite pleasant, with an abundance of sun and relatively mild temperatures in most places -- just avoid those winter snowstorms.

Along the Front Range, where Denver and Colorado Springs are located, summer days are hot and dry, and evenings mild. Humidity is low, and temperatures seldom rise above the 90s (30s Celsius). Evenings start to get cooler by mid-September, but even as late as November the days are often warm. Surprisingly, winters here are warmer and less snowy than winters in the Great Lakes or New England.

Most of Colorado is considered semiarid, and overall the state has an average of 296 sunny days a year -- more sunshine than San Diego or Miami Beach. The prairies average about 16 inches of precipitation annually; the Front Range, 14 inches; the western slope, only about 8 inches. Rain, when it falls, is commonly a short afternoon thunderstorm. However, if you want to see snow, simply head to the mountains, where snowfall is measured in feet rather than inches, and mountain peaks may still be white in July. Mountain temperatures can be bitterly cold, especially if it's windy, but even at the higher elevations of some of the nation's top ski resorts, you'll find plenty of sunshine.

Tips for Student Travelers

A valid student ID will often qualify students for discounts on airfare, accommodations, entry to museums, cultural events, movies, and more throughout Colorado.

Check out the International Student Travel Confederation (ISTC; www.istc.org) website for comprehensive travel services information and details on how to get an International Student Identity Card (ISIC), which qualifies students for substantial savings on rail passes, plane tickets, entrance fees, and more. It also provides students with basic health and life insurance and a 24-hour helpline. The card is valid for a maximum of 18 months. You can apply for the card online or in person at STA Travel (tel. 800/781-4040 in North America, 13/27-82 in Australia, or 08712/300-040 in the U.K.; www.statravel.com), the biggest student travel agency in the world; check out the website to locate STA Travel offices worldwide. If you're no longer a student but are still under 26, you can get an International Youth Travel Card (IYTC) from the same people, which entitles you to some discounts. Travel CUTS (tel. 800/592-2887; www.travelcuts.com) offers similar services for both Canadians and U.S. residents. Irish students may prefer to turn to USIT (tel. 01/602-1904; www.usit.ie), an Ireland-based specialist in student, youth, and independent travel.