advertisement

One of Denmark's premier museums for the decorative and functional arts, this centuries-old former hospital building is now where the best design exhibitions roost. Its wooden exhibition cabinets are by master of restrictive purity Kaare Klint, for whom its cafe is named. You'll find the changing exhibitions to be well-marked in both Danish and English (a recent show on Danish Modern chairs was typical of the facility in that it brought together many pristine examples from the archives of artists' families), but the permanent collection is less thoroughly explained. Signage is more focused on celebrating personalities than it is in explicating the finer points of the arts' evolution, so it helps to come armed with either an aesthetic appreciation or an interest in design. A few items are worth a look, including Thorvald Bindesbøll's original Carlsberg label, still stuck to an antique bottle, and some lumpy, childish Gauguin ceramics that seem to justify his success in an entirely different artistic area.