Planning a trip to Copenhagen

Parking

Main Arteries & Streets

The heart of Old Copenhagen is a warren of pedestrian streets, bounded by Nørreport Station to the north, Rådhuspladsen (Town Hall Square) to the west, and Kongens Nytorv, a busy square that's positioned at the top of the Nyhavn Canal, to the east. Strøget, the longest continuous pedestrian-only route in Europe, goes east from Town Hall Square to Kongens Nytorv, and is made up of five interconnected streets: Frederiksberggade, Nygade, Vimmelskaftet, Amagertorv, and Østergade. Strøget is lined with shops, bars, restaurants, pizza parlors, and, in summer, sidewalk cafes. Pistolstræde contains a maze of galleries, restaurants, and boutiques, housed in restored 18th-century buildings.

Fiolstræde (Violet St.), a dignified street with antiques shops and bookshops, cuts through the university (Latin Quarter). If you turn into Rosengaarden, at the top of Fiolstræde, you'll come to Kultorvet (Coal Square), just before you reach Nørreport Station. Here you join the third main pedestrian street, Købmagergade (Butcher St.), which winds around and finally meets Strøget at Amagertorv.

At the end of Strøget, you approach Kongens Nytorv (King's Square). This is the site of the Royal Theater and Magasin, the largest department store in Copenhagen. This will put you at the beginning of Nyhavn, the former seamen's quarter that has been gentrified into an upmarket area of expensive restaurants, apartments, cafes, and boutiques.

The government of Denmark has been centered, for the past 800 years, on the small and very central downtown island of Slotsholmen, which is connected to the center by eight different bridges. The island's most immediately visible attraction is the imperial-looking granite mass of Christiansborg Castle, home of the Danish parliament, the prime minister's offices, the country's Supreme Court, and several museums.

The center of Copenhagen is Rådhuspladsen (Town Hall Square). From here it's a short walk to the Tivoli Gardens, the major attraction of Copenhagen; the Central Railway Station; and the Bus Station terminus. Vesterbrogade, a wide, densely trafficked boulevard, passes by Tivoli en route to the Central Railway Station. H. C. Andersens Boulevard, a major avenue named after Denmark's most famous writer, runs beside the Rådhuspladsen and Tivoli Gardens.

Finding an Address

All even numbers are on one side of the street, all odd numbers on the other. Buildings are listed in numerical order. A, B, or C is often inserted after the street number.

Getting There

By Plane

You arrive at Kastrup Airport (tel. 32-31-32-31; www.cph.dk), 12km (7 1/2 miles) from the center of Copenhagen. Air-rail trains link the airport with the Central Railway Station in the center of Copenhagen. The ride takes 13 minutes, and costs DKK27 ($4.60/£2.70). Located right under the airport's Arrivals and Departures halls, the Air Rail Terminal is a short escalator ride from the gates. You can also take an SAS bus to the city terminal; the fare is DKK26 ($4.40/£2.60). A taxi to the city center costs DKK180 to DKK220 ($31-$37/£18-£22).

By Train

Trains arrive at the HovedBanegården (Central Railway Station; tel. 70-13-14-15 for rail information), in the center of Copenhagen, near Tivoli Gardens and the Rådhuspladsen. The station operates a luggage-checking service, but room bookings are available only at the tourist office.

From the Central Railway Station, you can connect with the S-tog, a local train; trains depart from platforms in the terminal itself. The information desk is near tracks 5 and 6.

By Bus

Buses from Zealand and elsewhere pull into the Central Railway Station. For bus information, call tel. 36-13-14-15 daily 7am to 9:30pm.

By Car

If you're driving from Germany, a car ferry will take you from Travemünde to Gedser in southern Denmark. From Gedser, get on E55 north, an express highway that will deliver you to the southern outskirts of Copenhagen. If you're coming from Sweden via the Øresund Bridge, it will deposit you on the city's eastern outskirts, close to Kastrup airport. From here, it's a short drive into the center.

Fast Facts

American Express -- Amex is represented throughout Denmark by Nyman & Schultz, Nørregade 7A (tel. 33-13-11-81; bus: 34 or 35), with a branch in Terminal 3 of the Copenhagen Airport. Fulfilling all the functions of American Express, except for foreign exchange services, the main office is open Monday to Thursday 8:30am to 4:30pm, and Friday 8:30am to 4pm. The airport office remains open until 8:30pm Monday to Friday. On weekends, and overnight on weekdays, a recorded message, in English, will deliver the phone number of a 24-hour Amex service in Stockholm. This is useful for anyone who has lost a card or traveler's checks.

Bookstores -- One of the best and most centrally located is Politikens Boghallen, Rådhuspladsen 37 (tel. 33-47-25-60; www.boghallen.dk; bus: 2, 8, or 30), offering more English titles than its competitors. Hours are Monday to Friday 10am to 7pm, and Saturday 10am to 4pm.

Business Hours -- Most banks are open Monday to Friday 10am to 4pm (to 6pm Thurs). Stores are generally open Monday to Thursday 9am to 6pm, Friday 9am to 7 or 8pm, and Saturday 9am to 2pm; most are closed Sunday. Offices are open Monday to Friday 9 or 10am to 4 or 5pm.

Currency Exchange -- Banks give better rates than currency kiosks. The main branch of Den Danske Bank (The Danish Bank), Holmens Kanal, 2-12 (tel. 33-44-00-00), is open Monday to Friday from 10am to 4pm (to 5:30pm Thurs). When banks are closed, you can exchange money at Forex (tel. 33-11-29-05) in the Central Railway Station, daily 8am to 10pm, or at the Change Group, Østergade 61 (tel. 33-93-04-55; bus: 9 or 10), daily 8:30am to 8:15pm.

Dentists -- During regular business hours, ask your hotel to call the nearest English-speaking dentist. For emergencies, go to Tandlægevagten, Oslo Plads 14 (tel. 35-38-02-51; bus: 6 or 9), near Østerport Station and the U.S. Embassy. It's open Monday to Friday 8am to 9:30pm and Saturday, Sunday, and holidays 10am to noon. Be prepared to pay in cash.

Doctors -- To reach a doctor, dial tel. 38-11-40-00 24 hours a day (www.copenhagendoctors.dk). The doctor's fee is payable in cash and visits cost DKK1,400 ($238/£140) per visit from Monday to Friday 8am to 4pm and DKK1,800 ($306/£180) all other times. The doctor will arrive within 45 minutes and provide most medication. Language is hardly a problem in Denmark, where virtually all doctors speak English.

Emergencies -- Dial tel. 112 to report a fire or to call the police or an ambulance. State your phone number and address. Emergency calls from public telephones are free (no coins needed).

Hospitals -- In cases of illness or accident, even foreigners are entitled to free medical treatment in Denmark. One of the most centrally located hospitals is Rigshospitalet, Blegdamsvej 9 (tel. 35-45-35-45; bus: 10).

Internet Access -- To check your e-mail or to send messages, go to Copenhagen Hovebibliotek, Krystalgade 15 (tel. 33-73-60-60; bus: 5, 14, or 16), open Monday to Friday 10am to 7pm, Saturday 10am to 2pm.

Lost Property -- The Lost and Found Property office at Slotsherrensvej 113, 2720 Vanløse (tel. 38-74-88-22; bus: 12 or 22), is open Monday, Wednesday, and Friday 9am to 2pm, Tuesday and Thursday 9am to 5:30pm.

Luggage Storage & Lockers -- Luggage can be stored in lockers at Central Railway Station. Lockers are accessible Monday to Saturday 5:30am to 1am and Sunday 6am to 1am. The cost is DKK30 to DKK40 ($5.10-$6.80/£3-£4) for 24 hours, depending on the size of your luggage.

Newspapers -- Foreign newspapers, particularly the International Herald Tribune and USA Today, are available at the Central Railway Station in front of the Palladium movie theater on Vesterbrogade, at many newspaper kiosks on Strøget, and at the newsstands of big hotels. Foreign fashion and lifestyle magazines are also widely sold.

Pharmacies -- An apotek (pharmacy) open 24 hours a day is Steno Apotek, Vesterbrogade 6C (tel. 33-14-82-66; bus: 6), lying opposite the Central Railway Station.

Police -- In an emergency, dial tel. 112. For other matters, go to the police station at Halmtorvet 20 (tel. 33-25-14-48).

Post Office -- For information about the Copenhagen post office, phone tel. 80-20-70-30. The main post office, where your poste restante (general delivery) letters can be picked up, is located at Tietgensgade 37, DK-1704 København (tel. 80-20-70-30; bus: 10 or 46). It's open Monday to Friday 11am to 6pm and Saturday 10am to 1pm. The post office at the Central Railway Station is open Monday to Friday 8am to 9pm, Saturday 9am to 4pm, and Sunday 10am to 4pm.

Safety -- Compared with other European capital cities, Copenhagen is relatively safe. However, since the early 1990s, with the increase of homelessness and unemployment, crime has risen. Guard your wallet, purse, and other valuables as you would when traveling in any big city.

Taxes -- Throughout Denmark you'll come across MOMS on your bills, a government-imposed value-added tax of 25%. It's included in hotel and restaurant bills, service charges, entrance fees, and repair of foreign-registered cars. No refunds are given on these items.

Toilets -- Public toilets are at Rådhuspladsen (Town Hall Square), at the Central Railway Station, and at all terminals. Look for the signs TOILETTER, WC, DAMER (women), or HERRER (men). There is no charge.

Transit Information -- Day or night, phone tel. 70-13-14-15 for bus, Metro, and S-tog information.

Getting Around

Copenhagen is a walker's paradise, neat and compact. Many of the major sightseeing attractions are close to one another.

By Public Transportation

A joint zone fare system includes Copenhagen Transport buses; State Railway, Metro, and S-tog trains in Copenhagen and North Zealand; and some private railway routes within a 40km (25-mile) radius of the capital, enabling you to transfer from train to bus and vice versa with the same ticket.

Basic Fares -- A grundbillet (basic ticket) for buses and trains costs DKK15 ($2.60/£1.50). Up to two children, age 11 and under, ride for half fare when accompanied by an adult. For DKK90 ($15/£9), you can purchase a ticket allowing 24-hour bus and train travel through nearly half of Zealand; it's half-price for children 7 to 11, and free for children 6 and under.

Discount Passes -- The Copenhagen Card (www.copenhagencard.dk) entitles you to free and unlimited travel by bus and rail throughout the metropolitan area (including North Zealand), 25% to 50% discounts on crossings to and from Sweden, and free admission to many sights and museums. The card is available for 1 or 3 days and costs DKK199 ($34/£20) and DKK429 ($73/£43), respectively. Up to two children under the age of 10 are allowed to go free with each adult card. Otherwise, children ages 10 to 15 pay DKK129 ($22/£13) and DKK299 ($51/£30) for 1 or 3 days. Buy the card at tourist offices, at the airport, at train stations, and at most hotels. For more information, contact the Copenhagen Tourist Information Center or click on www.cphcard.com.

For information about low-cost train, ferry, and plane trips, go to Wasteels, Skoubogade 6 (tel. 33-14-46-33), in Copenhagen. It's open Monday to Friday 9am to 5pm and Saturday 10am to 3pm.

Eurailpasses (which must be purchased in the U.S.) and Nordturist Pass tickets (which can be purchased at any train station in Scandinavia) can be used on local trains in Copenhagen.

By Bus -- Copenhagen's well-maintained buses are the least expensive method of getting around, and most buses leave from Rådhuspladsen in the heart of the city. A basic ticket allows 1 hour of travel and unlimited transfers within the zone where you started your trip. For information, call tel. 36-13-14-15.

By Metro -- In 2002, Copenhagen launched its first Metro line, taking passengers from east to west across the city or vice versa. Operating 24 hours, the Metro links the western and eastern sections of Copenhagen to the center. Eventually, when completed, the Metro will run all the way to the airport. Nørreport is the transfer station to the S-tog system, the commuter rail link to the suburbs. Metro trains run every 2 minutes during rush hours and every 15 minutes at night. Fares are integrated into the existing zonal systems.

By S-tog -- The S-tog connects the heart of Copenhagen, most notably the Central Station, with the city's suburbs. Use of the tickets is the same as on buses. You can transfer from a bus line to an S-tog train on the same ticket. Eurailpass holders generally ride free. For more information, call tel. 70-13-14-15.

By Car

Because of the widespread availability of traffic-free walkways in Copenhagen, and its many parks, gardens, and canalside promenades, the Danish capital is well suited to pedestrian promenades. It's best to park your car in any of the dozens of city parking lots, then retrieve it when you're ready to explore the suburbs or countryside. Many parking lots are open 24 hours, but a few close between 1 and 7am; some close on Saturday afternoon and on Sunday, when traffic is generally lighter. The cost ranges from DKK9 to DKK26 ($1.60-$4.40/90p-£2.60) per hour. Two centrally located parking lots are Industriens Hus, H. C. Andersens Blvd. 18 (tel. 33-91-21-75), open Monday to Friday 7am to midnight, Saturday 9am to 1am, Sunday 9am to midnight; and Park City, Israels Plads (tel. 70-22-92-20), open daily from 6am to midnight for entry. (You can exit from this facility any time, 24 hr. a day.) For more information about parking in Copenhagen, call tel. 47-70-80-80-90 or go online to www.parking.dk.

By Taxi

Watch for the FRI (free) sign or green light to hail a taxi, and be sure the taxis are metered. Taxa 4x35 (tel. 35-35-35-35) operates the largest fleet of cabs. Tips are included in the meter price: DKK19 to DKK32 ($3.30-$5.50/£1.90-£3.20) at the drop of the flag and DKK12 ($2.10/£1.20) per kilometer (about 2/3 mile) thereafter, Monday to Friday 7am to 4pm. From 6pm to 6am, and all day Saturday and Sunday, the cost is DKK15 ($2.60/£1.50) per kilometer. Many drivers speak English.

By Bicycle

To reduce pollution from cars (among other reasons), many Copenhageners ride bicycles. In her younger days, even the queen of Denmark could be seen cycling around just like her subjects. You can rent a bike at Københavns Cyklebors, Gothersgade 157 (tel. 33-14-07-17). Depending on the bike, daily rates range from DKK60 to DKK150 ($10-$26/£6-£15), with deposits from DKK200 to DKK300 ($34-$51/£20-£30). Hours are Monday to Friday 8:30am to 5:30pm and Saturday 10am to 1:30pm.

Neighborhoods in Brief

Tivoli Gardens

Steeped in nostalgia, these amusement gardens were built in 1843 on the site of former fortifications in the heart of Copenhagen, on the south side of Rådhuspladsen. Some 160,000 flowers and 110,000 electric lights set the tone, and a collection of restaurants, dance halls, theaters, beer gardens, and lakes attracts many thousands of visitors every year.

Strøget

This pedestrian-only urban walkway stretches between Rådhuspladsen and Kongens Nytorv, two of the city's most visible and busiest plazas. En route along its trajectory are two spectacular, although smaller, squares, Gammeltorv and Nytorv, "old" and "new" squares, which seem to blossom during the warm-weather months with outdoor seating -- extensions of the many restaurants that line its edges. The word "Strøget" usually doesn't appear on maps. Instead, Strøget encompasses five interconnected streets: Frederiksberggade, Nygade, Villelskaftet, Amagertorv, and Østergade.

Nyhavn/Kongens Nytorv

Nyhavn ("New Harbor") was originally conceived in the 1670s by the Danish king as a shelter from the storms of the North and Baltic Sea, and as a means of hauling building supplies into central Copenhagen. Nyhavn today is the site of a denser concentration of restaurants than any other neighborhood in Copenhagen. Moored beside its granite embankments, you'll see old or even antique fishing boats, some of which remain in place to preserve the sense of old-fashioned nostalgia. For many generations, Nyhavn was the haunt of sailors looking for tattoos, cheap drinks, and other diversions. Nowadays it's one of the most obviously gentrified sections of the city, with outdoor terraces that are mobbed during warm-weather months with chattering, sometimes hard-drinking Danes on holiday. At the top, or western terminus, of the Nyhavn canal is the five-sided Kongens Nytorv (King's New Market), site of the deluxe Hotel d'Angleterre and the Royal Theater.

Indre By

This is the Old Town, the heart of Copenhagen. Once filled with monasteries, it's a maze of streets, alleyways, and squares. The neighborhood around Gammeltorv and Nørregade, sometimes called "The Latin Quarter," contains many buildings linked with the university. The Vor Frue Kirke (cathedral of Copenhagen) is here, as is the Rundetårn (Round Tower).

Slotsholmen

This island, site of Christiansborg Palace, was where Bishop Absalon built Copenhagen's first fortress in 1167. Today it's the seat of the Danish parliament and home of Thorvaldsen's Museum. Bridges link Slotsholmen to Indre By. You can also visit the Royal Library (site of a recent hypermodern new wing described as the "Black Diamond"), the Theater Museum, and the Royal Stables. The 17th-century Børsen (stock exchange) is also here.

Christianshavn

Set on the opposite side of Copenhagen's harbor from the rest of the city, this was the "new town" ordered by master builder King Christian IV in the early 1500s. The town was originally constructed in the Dutch Renaissance style to house workers in the shipbuilding industry. Visitors come today mainly to see the Danish Film Museum, on Store Søndervoldstræde, and Vors Frelsers Kirke, on the corner of Prinsessegade and Skt. Annægade. Sightseers can climb the spire of the old church for a panoramic view. Within the Christianshavn district is the offbeat community of Christiania. In 1971, many young and homeless people moved in, without the city's permission, proclaiming Christiania a "free city" (that is, partially exempt from the rules and regulations of the Danish government) within the orbit of Greater Copenhagen. It has been a freewheeling and controversial place ever since.

Once filled with barracks for soldiers, Christiania is within walking distance of Vor Frelsers Kirke at Christianshavn. You can enter the area on Prinsessegade. The craft shops and restaurants here are fairly cheap because the residents refuse to pay Denmark's crippling 25% sales tax.

Vesterbro

Once a hotbed slum loaded with junkies and prostitutes, Vesterbro would be comparable to the East Village or Williamsburg in New York City. Its main street, Istedgade, runs west from the Central Railway Station. Don't come here for monuments or museums, but for hip cafes, bars, music, and ethnic restaurants. No longer a slum, Vesterbro's sense of newfound hipness centers on the cafes and bars around the Halmtorvet, Vesterbro's main square. Expect gentrification but also cultural diversity such as Turkish-Kurdish gift shops, food markets loaded with fruits you might not immediately recognize, barbers from Istanbul, and, from time to time, a sex shop like those that proliferated here during the '70s and '80s.

Nørrebro

Adjacent to Vesterbro, Nørrebro takes the immigrant overflow, and is also rich in artisan shops and ethnic restaurants, especially Turkish and Pakistani. This area has been a blue-collar neighborhood since the middle of the 19th century. The original Danish settlers have long since departed, replaced by immigrants who are not always greeted with a friendly reception in Copenhagen. The area also abounds with trend-conscious artists, students, and musicians, who can't afford the high rents elsewhere. Numerous secondhand clothing stores -- especially around Sankt Hans Torv -- give Nørrebro the flavor of a Middle Eastern bazaar. Antiques shops (believe us, many of the furnishings and objets d'art aren't authentic) also fill the area. Most of these "antiques" stores lie along Ravnsborgade. The district is also home to a historic cemetery, Assistens Kirkegård, burial ground of both Hans Christian Andersen and Søren Kierkegaard, just to the west of Nørrebrogade. If you're looking for the densest concentrations of the nightlife that the district has become famous for, head for either Sankt Hans Torv or Blågårdsgade.

Frederiksberg

Heading west of the inner city along Vesterbrogade, you will reach the residential and business district of Frederiksberg. It grew up around Frederiksberg Palace, constructed in the Italianate style, with an ocher facade. A park, Frederiksberg Have, surrounds the palace. To the west of the palace is the Zoologisk Have, one of the largest zoos in Europe.

Dragør

Dragør is a fishing village south of the city that dates from the 16th century. Along with Tivoli, this seems to be everybody's favorite leisure spot. It's especially recommended for its aura of an 18th-century Danish village, if you only have time to see the Copenhagen area. Walk its cobblestone streets and enjoy its 65 old red-roofed houses, designated as national landmarks.