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It's a dramatic and luxurious way to experience the city: dining two-thirds of the way up the tower that soars above Christiansborg Palace. Until 2014, this huge aerie was just a neglected workshop space, and its look nods to that—surveying diners are colossal plaster models of exterior statuary, plus two monumental stone lions of uncertain provenance. Of more definite origin are the ingredients, which are all selected, with great pains and seasonal shifts, to come from Denmark or very nearby—sirloin steak, sea buckthorn, langoustine, or chocolate made from wild, organic Bolivian beans (created by a Danish-owned outfit). The one huge window surveys the royal Riding Ground and the roofs of Copenhagen beyond—it's the focus of the room and no one table hogs the view. You can access the higher-level observation deck, which has a 360-degree view, for free while you're there for a meal.

Serving high-level food inside the spire of a working government building is no small feat; restaurateur Rasmus Bo Bojesen must prep meals a few miles away at his restaurant inside the Opera House and transport them here for final plating at times when officials are not in session, but the commute doesn't seem to adversely affect the quality of the meal. With only about 100 covers per night, this is a hard-to-get reservation, so book ahead. It's worth it to experience modern Danish cuisine as you absorb that timeless Copenhagen skyline.