A small fountain strewn with roses welcomes visitors to the ivy-draped main courtyard of this small museum, which tries to re-create daily life in Córdoba during the 12th-century caliphate. Don’t spend too much time studying the model of the mill on the Río Guadalquivír, which produced paper for spiritual texts, or reading the often heavy-handed interpretive notes. Instead, take a seat on a low chair, lean against an embroidered cushion, breathe in the scent of the flowers, and listen to the gurgle of the fountain.