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Sitting Still -- Probably no one needs to be told that one of the great pleasures of traveling about Greece is just occasionally to sit still -- that is, to plunk yourself down on a cafe chair and enjoy a drink while you observe the passing scene. And arguably no more ideal place to do just that is at one of the cafes that set out their tables and chairs between the Liston and the Esplanade. The Liston, the impressive arcade, is a Greek version of "the List," referring to a list of upper-class and privileged individuals who were the only ones allowed to frequent this site after it was erected in the early 1800s. Gerald Durrell in his 1978 memoir of the family's time on Corfu, The Garden of the Gods, says it best: "The Platia [another name for the Liston] . . . was the hub of the island. Here you would sit at a little table under the arches or beneath the shimmering trees and, sooner or later, you would see everyone on the island and hear every facet of every scandal." Well, we may not be that kind of insider, but we can enjoy other pleasures, such as watching a game of cricket being played on the Esplanade (Spianada in Greek), the large greensward. Cricket is a vestige of the island's years under British rule, and another is ginger beer that you might consider sipping while you sit there.

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