A road twists from the ancient site to the summit of Acrocorinth, the limestone sugarloaf mountain that looms 566m (1,855 ft.) above the plain. This is a stiff climb; if you don't have a car, allow several hours for the ascent, or grab a taxi by the ancient site; it's about 15€ for the round-trip, with a half-hour wait -- less if you decide to walk back. On a clear day, the views from the summit are splendid, although it's been a long time since the atmosphere was clear enough to spot the columns of the Parthenon on the Athenian Acropolis.

A superb natural acropolis, Acrocorinth was first fortified by the ancient Greeks. Everyone who came later -- the Byzantines, Franks, Venetians, and Turks -- added to the original walls. Today, there are three courses of outer walls; massive gates with towers; and a jumble of ruined houses, churches, and barracks. Alas, in 2011 the small cafe that used to sell cold drinks closed. Before you leave here, you may wish to reflect on the fact that there was a Temple of Aphrodite on this summit in antiquity, staffed by an estimated 1,000 temple prostitutes -- some of whom worked the streets in town but others who worked here, awaiting those hardy customers who walked up from Corinth.