If you can’t quite swing a night at Ashford Castle, then, like the other 99% of us, you might find this a viable alternative for a slice of Irish upper-crust glamour. Lisloughrey Lodge was once home to the estate managers of Ashford, but now it’s run as a boutique hotel with a fantastic restaurant. Wilde’s is overseen by Jonathan Keane, an up-and-coming star of the Irish culinary world. His modern Irish cooking is deliciously inventive; just a glance at the menu is enough to give you an idea of his celebratory approach to food. From the tasting menu (or “Menu of Discovery”) you might be offered pigeon with sherry consommé, roast duck with citrus fruit and pine nuts, wild turbot with monk’s beard (we presume the Tuscan vegetable), and, to finish, a piquant combination of rhubarb parfait and lime caviar. The dining room has a fantastic view of Lough Corrib. If you want to spend the night, doubles start at around €120.