Gaelic words painted on the dining room wall translate to “hunger makes a great sauce”—a wry nod to tradition that nicely sums up this place. Wexford native and rising star chef Warren Gillen deeply embraces the flavors of his home region yet gives them a contemporary edge. Haddock with wild garlic pesto, 10-hour-cooked local beef, crispy polenta with pumpkin and mushroom—all are elegantly presented without a hint of pretension. One of the nicest things about Cistin Eile is how relaxed it feels; Warren often greets guests at the door personally and chats to them at their tables. Tip: Lunch here is surprisingly affordable.