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Long-time Cozumel visitors return to sit at their favorite tables in the vine-draped courtyard at this venerable courtyard restaurant, which opened as Rolandi's in 1979. Today, Chef Yvonne Villiger, daughter of the original owner, continues to please customers old and new with the restaurant's signature puffy garlic bread, homemade pastas, and irresistible coconut ice cream. There are a few tables near the wood-burning pizza oven by the restaurant's entrance, but you'd have to be mighty cold-blooded to withstand the heat. Far better for comfort and people-watching are the polished wood tables scattered around the courtyard. 

 
To run up a moderate tab, you can dine on pasta or pizza, or go all the way and  feast on pulpo a la gallega (Gallegan-style octopus), scallops wrapped in prosciutto, or whatever catch-of-the-day creation Villiger has dreamed up. She's also opened Guido's Tiendita and Delicatessen (Ave. 15 and Calle 10, 987-120-1827), with shelves stocked with  imported olive oils, cheeses, quinoa, and other gourmet goodies. Savvy locals and travelers linger over coffee and yogurt in the courtyard, and stop by for salads, baguette sandwiches, and a remarkable selection of wines and Belgian beers at lunch.