Before a disastrous fire in 2008, there was a distinct Mexican flair to the island's first  fancy restaurant, which specialized in Yucatan and regional Mexican cuisine. It has changed drastically in its new location, which looks like a white corridor with rows of wooden tables. An arched wall at the back frames a garden sans dining tables. Wicker lamps and Christmas decorations hang from the ceiling (even in March), and cooks whip up poblano chiles stuffed with shrimp, pescado tikinchic (fish baked with sour orange and achiote ), and pollo en relleno negro (chicken in a sauce of blackened chiles) in an open kitchen. The special dessert—cold avocado pie—is still on offer. Its silky texture and intriguing sweet avocado flavor make it the best thing on the menu, in my opinion.