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Twinkling white lights draped across the eaves reflect this cozy restaurant's name, which means "firefly" in Mayan, and which serves the most original cooking on the island. Early in the evening, locals gather for sangria and conversation while nibbling rich goat cheese empanaditas with mango chutney, savory sautéed calamari with chile de arbol , and other tapas. Informal dinner choices include lobster or shrimp pizza, though you're shortchanging yourself if you don't settle in for a lengthy romantic dinner at a linen-draped table in the courtyard. Share the tuna sashimi sprinkled with black sesame seed, then move on to the catch of the day Niçoise- style or seared skirt steak with manchego cheese sauce. Be sure to save room for the palate-soothing ginger creme brûlée. Owner Kathy Klein has developed a dedicated following, so be sure to make reservations.