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Banks & Currency Exchange -- Most Peruvian and international banks with currency-exchange bureaus and ATMs are located along Avenida El Sol. Money-changers, usually wearing colored smocks, patrol the main streets off the Plaza de Armas and Avenida El Sol. Banks include Banco Santander Central Hispano, Av. El Sol 459; Banco de Crédito, Av. El Sol 189; and Banco Continental, Av. El Sol 366. The external ATMs nearest the Plaza de Armas are at Banco de Crédito, Av. El Sol 189; Banco del Sur, Av. El Sol 457; and Banco Latino, Av. El Sol 395. A couple are also located at the entrances to stores and restaurants on the Plaza de Armas and at the Huanchaq train station. Several small casas de cambio, with similar rates to banks, operate out of travel agencies and shops on Plaza de Armas and Avenida El Sol.

Consulates -- The U.S. consulate is located at Av. Pardo 845 (tel. 084/231-474, or CoresES@state.gov.). The honorary U.K. consulate is at Manu Expeditions, Urbanización Magisterial, G-5 Segunda Etap (tel. 084/239-974; bwalker@terra.com.pe). Both are open daily from 9am to noon and 3 to 5pm.

Dentists & Doctors -- In an emergency, contact the Tourist Medical Assistance (TMA), Heladeros 157 (tel. 084/260-101). It offers 24-hour emergency medical services, health information, and legal assistance.

Drugstores -- For locations, consult a phone book Yellow Pages under "Farmacias" and "Boticas."

Emergency -- For general emergencies and the police, call tel. 105. For the tourist police, call tel. 084/249-654. To report a fire, call tel. 103. In a medical emergency, go to Hospital EsSalud, Av. Anselmo Álvarez s/n (tel. 084/223-030), or contact Tourist Medical Assistance (tel. 084/260-101).

Hospitals -- English-speaking medical personnel are available at the following hospitals and clinics: Hospital EsSalud, Av. Anselmo Álvarez s/n (tel. 084/237-341); Clínica Pardo, Av. de la Cultura 710 (tel. 084/624-186); Hospital Antonio Loren, Plazoleta Belén 1358 (tel. 084/226-511); Hospital Regional, Av. de la Cultura s/n (tel. 084/223-691); and Clínica Paredes, Lechugal 405 (tel. 084/225-265).

For yellow-fever vaccinations, try Hospital Antonio Loren on Tuesday or Hospital Regional on Saturday from 9am to 1pm.

Internet Access -- Internet cabinas are everywhere in the old section of Cusco, and many permit cheap oversees Internet-based (Web2Phone) calls for as little as S/1 per minute. Rates are generally S/1.50 per hour. Most keep very late hours, opening at 9am and staying open until 11pm or midnight. A few of the many cabinas around town include Explora, Arequipa 251; Speed X, Procuradores 50 and Tecsecocha 400; @Internet, Portal de Panes 123; and Cyber-Planet, Almagro 200. Several cafes and nightspots, including Trotamundos, Ukuku's, and Mama Africa, also have computers and Internet access, which is convenient if you got an e-mail address rather than a phone number from a guy or girl at the bar.

Language Schools -- For intensive Spanish courses, try AMAUTA Spanish School, Suecia 480 (tel. 084/262-345; www.amautaspanish.com), Academia Latinoamericana de Español, Av. El Sol 580 (tel. 084/243-364; www.latinoschools.com), or San Blas Spanish School, Tandapata 688 (tel. 084/247-898). All are very popular with short- and long-term visitors to Cusco.

Laundry Laundromats offering good, rapid service include: Lavandería Louis, Choquechaca 264 (tel. 084/243-485); Easy Wash, Ruinas 457 (tel. 084/238-124); Lavandería Inka, Ruinas 493 (tel. 084/223-421) and Totem Wash, Saphy 726 (tel. 084/145-367).

Maps -- The main tourist information office gives out free maps, and, for most visitors, these should be sufficient. (Cusco is easy to manage and a joy to wander around and even get lost in.) More detailed maps, and maps of the Inca Trail and other hiking trails in the Cusco region, are available at bookstores.

Massage -- On virtually every street in the old town are young women advertising "massage, massage," often for as little as $7. They're generally of questionable quality or intent. Several legitimate spots are in town, some more professional than others, but the best massage I've had in Peru was from Olga at Ying Yang Massage, Av. El Sol 106 (Galerías La Merced; tel. 084/243-592; yinyang_masajes@hotmail.com), where the rooms are nice and a 1-hour full-body massage will set you back S/75; hotel visits are also possible for a small supplement. The swankest massage center in town is Inca Spa, within the Hotel Eco Inn, Av. El Sol 1010 (tel. 084/581-280; www.incaspa.com.pe); it's excellent but prices are about double its competitors.

Police -- The Policía Nacional de Turismo (National Tourism Police) has an English-speaking staff that is specifically trained to handle the needs of foreign visitors. The office is at Saphy 510 (tel. 084/249-654). You can also contact iPerú/INDECOPI (Servicio de Protección al Turista, or Tourist Protection Bureau), Portal Carrizos 250, Plaza de Armas (tel. 084/252-974); the staff is available daily from 8am to 8pm.

Post Office & Mail -- Cusco's main post office, Serpost, is at Av. El Sol 800 (tel. 084/224-212). A DHL/Western Union office is at Av. El Sol 627-A (tel. 084/244-167).

Telephone -- Cusco's area code is 084. The principal Telefónica del Perú office, for long-distance and international calls, is at Av. El Sol 382-6 (tel. 084/241-114). It's open Monday through Saturday from 8am to 10pm.

Tour Operators & Travel Agencies -- Cusco is swimming in travel agencies -- several hundred of all sizes, and many that offer almost the exact same packages compete for your attention. Only a few dozen have solid reputations, however, and many should be flat-out avoided. Do not contract any would-be travel agent on the street, and do not hand over money for a trip or package without visiting the outfit in its office. If you have any questions about an agency, particularly one not listed by name and recommended in this guide, do not hesitate to inquire about its reputation in the Tourist Information Office.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.