Chef and author José Luján Vargas has quietly become one of the most important culinary voices in the Cusco region, launching several restaurants, a cooking school, and a research lab. His fine-dining restaurant, Chullpi, overlooking Cusco’s Plaza de Armas, opened in 2017 and is perhaps the most promising new restaurant in the city in years. The barn-like, rustic-chic restaurant, transformed from an old disco space, works with local farmers and contemporizes regional ingredients in dishes like capchi de setas (mushroom chowder), grilled lamb with tapioca and mashed bananas, and crispy guinea pig with a fava-bean cream.